MV Dirona travel digest for Switzerland 2022
Click the travel log icon on the left to see these locations on a map,
with the complete log of our cruise. On the map page, clicking on a camera or text icon will display a picture and/or log entry for that location, and clicking on the smaller icons along the route will display latitude, longitude and other navigation data for that location. And a live map of our current route and most recent log entries always is available at //mvdirona.com/maps/LocationCurrent.html. |
6/20/2022: East Passage
Position: 47°27.76'N, -122°18.47'W
View to East Passage, with Des Moines marina at bottom right and Vashon Island in the distance, as we fly from Seattle to Las Vegas for the re:MARS conference. Tramp Harbor, this side of Vashon Island at upper right, was one of our frequent "Unusual Puget Sound Anchorages" when we boated in the area.
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6/20/2022: Mt. St. Helens
Position: 46°26.18'N, -121°55.12'W
The distinctive horseshoe-shaped crater of 8,363-ft (2,549 m) Mt. St. Helens. The volcano erupted in 1980, removing the entire north face and top 1,300 ft (400 m) of the mountain, in the deadliest and most economically destructive volcanic event in U.S. history. The eruption killed 57 people and destroyed 200 homes, 47 bridges, 15 miles (24 km) of railways, and 185 miles (298 km) of highway.
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6/20/2022: Mt. Hood
Position: 45°35.49'N, -121°35.93'W
11,249 ft (3,429 m) Mt. Hood, where we were snowshoeing earlier this year.
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6/20/2022: Mt. Jefferson
Position: 44°54.44'N, -121°20.85'W
10,502 ft (3,201 m) Mt. Jefferson, the second-highest mountain in Oregon after Mt. Hood.
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6/20/2022: Ivanpah
Position: 35°46.66'N, -115°34.14'W
The solar power towers of the Ivanpah Solar Power Facility aglow in directed sunlight. The 392-megawatt facility includes 173,500 heliostats that turn to reflect sunlight to boilers located within the towers.
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6/20/2022: Southern Highlands
Position: 35°57.02'N, -115°14.49'W
The Southern Highlands Golf Club, southwest of Las Vegas, is one of the wealthiest neighborhoods in the country with an average home price of $3.6M.
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6/20/2022: Train
Position: 36°4.94'N, -115°8.26'W
Taking in the view from the front of the train between terminals in the Las Vegas airport.
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6/20/2022: Black-Tailed Jackrabbit
Position: 36°4.95'N, -115°8.25'W
Sculpture of a black-tailed rabbit by David Phelps, one of five in the Desert Wildlife installation at the Las Vegas airport.
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6/20/2022: ARIA Resort
Position: 36°6.41'N, -115°10.66'W
Palm trees surrounding the pool at the ARIA resort in Las Vegas where we are staying for the re:MARS conference.
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6/20/2022: Bellagio Conservatory
Position: 36°6.70'N, -115°10.65'W
The plant-filled Conservatory and Botanical Gardens in the Bellagio Resort adjacent to the ARIA.
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6/20/2022: Zoox
Position: 36°6.39'N, -115°10.41'W
A specially-equipped Zoox Toyota Highlander driving through Las Vegas. The Amazon subsidiary makes purpose-built driverless taxis and tests on city streets using Highlanders equipped with sensors that mimic the driverless taxis.
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6/20/2022: Catch
Position: 36°6.50'N, -115°10.55'W
The dramatic tunnel entrance to Catch restaurant in the ARIA resort in Las Vegas.
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6/21/2022: Adam Savage
Position: 36°6.34'N, -115°10.78'W
Adam Savage hosting the 2022 re:MARS conference in Las Vegas. Savage is a special effects designer, actor and producer best known for co-hosting the Discovery Channel shows Myth Busters and Unchained Reaction
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6/21/2022: Tom Taylor
Position: 36°6.35'N, -115°10.77'W
Tom Taylor, SVP of Amazon Alexa, on stage during the re:MARS conference Day 1 keynote describing how machine learning is as revolutionary for our time as other technologies such as the printing press, electricity and the internal combustion engine.
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6/21/2022: Spot
Position: 36°6.34'N, -115°10.73'W
Boston Dynamic's Spot robot moving about in the Tech Showcase at re:MARS. The compact and nimble four-legged robot can easily go up stairs, and back down, can navigate obstacles and has a variety of gaits such crawling, walking, trotting and pacing.
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6/21/2022: Indy Autonomous Challenge
Position: 36°6.37'N, -115°10.69'W
Indy Autonomous Challenge (IAC) car on display at the 2022 re:MARS in Las Vegas. The IAC took place at Indianapolis Speedway in October of 2021 with full-sized, open-wheel driverless cars as a proving ground for autonomous vehicles. The winning team set a record for fastest autonomous care on a race course of 107 mph (173 kph). A second race was held at Las Vegas Motor Speedway in 2022 as part of the CES conference.
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6/22/2022: Proteus
Position: 36°6.35'N, -115°10.82'W
During the re:MARS conference Day 2 keynote, Amazon announced Proteus, the company's first fully autonomous mobile robot. Proteus is designed to safely work in warehouses alongside employees, easing their physical burden while improving productivity. Here the diminutive green robot is carrying a large blue package cart across the stage.
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6/22/2022: Robot
Position: 36°6.34'N, -115°10.77'W
Tye Brady, Chief Technologist of Amazon Robotics, on stage during the re:MARS conference Day 2 keynote with Agility Robotics bipedal robot Digit. The robot is targeting repetitive human work that can be more cost-effectively and safely done by a robot. Rather than redesigning the workspace to fit the robot, Agility designed a robot that is able to work safely around people and can take on process paths designed for humans.
James spent time with the Agility Robotics team at the MARS conference and was impressed with its capability. Here’s a video of Digit at work: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ikaSYti1KOQ. |
6/22/2022: Airrow
Position: 36°6.32'N, -115°10.72'W
This Airrow Dronehub on display at the re:MARS Tech Showcase caught our attention. Dronehub is an automated battery recharging and payload swapping technology designed to replace manual ground operations. We met Airrow CEO and founder Menachem Fehler, and James is quite interested in their technology.
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6/23/2022: Dawn
Position: 36°6.45'N, -115°10.61'W
The dawn view east from our hotel room at the ARIA Resort in Las Vegas.
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6/23/2022: Jean Georges Steakhouse
Position: 36°6.42'N, -115°10.60'W
A delicious meal at Jean Georges Steakhouse in the ARIA Resort.
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6/23/2022: re:MARS Party
Position: 36°6.92'N, -115°9.90'W
One of several good live bands on stage at the re:MARS conference after party, held outdoors at Caesars Entertainment Studios in Las Vegas.
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6/23/2022: Drummer
Position: 36°6.86'N, -115°9.85'W
Drummer at the re:MARS conference after party. His mesmerizing act combined synthesized audio and video, using a camera mounted about his drum.
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6/23/2022: BattleBots
Position: 36°6.83'N, -115°9.90'W
The highlight of the re:MARS after party was an exciting and entertaining BattleBots robot tournament, where robots attempt to destroy or disable each other during one-on-one three-minute matches. The matches take place in a large plexiglass-enclosed cage to protect the viewing audience. In this picture, the match-winning blue robot Blip at bottom left has flipped the robot Whiplash several feet in the air.
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6/23/2022: Control Room
Position: 36°6.79'N, -115°9.90'W
The BattleBots production control room behind the competition cage.
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6/23/2022: Evening View
Position: 36°6.43'N, -115°10.63'W
A final view east from our hotel room at the ARIA Resort over the city lights of Las Vegas on the final night of the 2022 re:MARS conference. We really enjoyed the event and Jennifer was particularly impressed at how far robot technology had advanced.
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6/24/2022: Compression Sacks
Position: 36°6.45'N, -115°10.62'W
Our two main suitcases, packed and ready to go in our Las Vegas hotel room after the 2022 re:MARS conference. We're heading directly to Switzerland and are only taking carry-on luggage. Here we make the most of the tight space using Osprey compression sacks. They are amazing, and can take two suitcases down to one. We originally found the compression sacks to reduce the size of some of our camping equipment and bought more for our suitcases.
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6/24/2022: Luggage
Position: 36°4.87'N, -115°8.35'W
In the United Airlines lounge at the Las Vegas airport on our way to Zurich after the re:MARS conference. For our trip to Switzerland we want to have only carry-on bags so we can easily move about on foot and by train. Packing for both the re:MARS conference and then Switzerland with only carry-on luggage was a bit challenging, but so far it's working well.
We're bringing a little more than for our one-week Rhine River cruise, but not much more. We'll have to do laundry every three to five days, but we otherwise expect it to work well. And flying through Europe right now with checked baggage is a bit of a gamble. |
6/24/2022: Continental Airlines
Position: 36°5.08'N, -115°8.40'W
We were surprised to see a Continental Airlines plane at the Las Vegas airport, as the airline ceased operations a decade ago. Continental merged with United Airlines in 2010 as United Airlines, but maintained Continental's distinctive globe logo introduced in the 1990s (barely visible at far right on a plane in the background). Prior to the merger, Continental celebrated their 75th anniversary in 2009 by painting a Boeing 737-900ER in their 1947 "Blue Skyways" livery and United has chosen to maintain that one plane in the fleet with the commemorative livery.
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6/24/2022: Departure Queue
Position: 36°5.08'N, -115°8.40'W
Our flight, United Airlines 1246, in line for the runway at the Las Vegas airport (click image for a larger view).
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6/24/2022: Solar Farm
Position: 35°38.98'N, -115°22.67'W
The 250 MW Silver State South Solar Project in southern Nevada just north of the California border. On the other side of the border to the southwest (not visible in the photo) is the 392 MW Ivanpah Solar Electric Generating System. The pictured station uses photovoltaic panels, whereas the Ivanpah station is composed of 173,500 heliostats concentrating solar power onto boilers within three solar towers. When the Ivanpah facility opened in 2014, it was the largest solar thermal power station in the world.
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6/24/2022: Interchange
Position: 33°57.03'N, -118°15.45'W
The Judge Harry Pregerson Interchange connecting interstate highways 105 and 110 in Los Angeles, viewed as we arrive into LAX for a connecting flight to Zurich. The interchange is over 130-ft (40 m) high, with a stacked design that allows cars to move between the freeways at near highway speeds.
The 105 was the last freeway built in Los Angeles and the interchange was named after the judge in a lawsuit over its construction. Pregerson required the California Department of Transportation to compensate those living in the freeway's path, earning him his name on the interchange. |
6/25/2022: Stadelhofen
Position: 47°21.99'N, 8°32.89'E
At the Stadelhofen train station in Zurich, a short walk to our hotel, after a 11-hour flight from LAX and a 15-minute train ride into the city. We're experimenting with ways to avoid jetlag and adapt to the new time zone quickly. So we slept for only a few hours on the plane with the hope that we'd get enough sleep so we weren't exhausted when we got in, but not so much that we wouldn't be tired in the evening. It's late afternoon right now and so far we're feeling great.
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6/25/2022: Munsterhof
Position: 47°22.21'N, 8°32.44'E
Walking through Munsterhof on our way to our hotel. The square, surrounded by medieval buildings and guild houses, dates to at least the 13th-century and is the largest in the old town district of Zurich. In the background is the 13th-century Fraumunster church.
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6/25/2022: Courtyard
Position: 47°22.24'N, 8°32.44'E
Looking down from the window of our room at the Sorell Hotel St. Peter to a courtyard restaurant below.
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6/25/2022: Schlusselgasse
Position: 47°22.25'N, 8°32.47'E
Walking to dinner along down narrow Schlusselgasse. In the background is the steeple of St. Peter Church, completed around 1000. The four clocks on each side of the steeple are the largest church clock faces in Europe at 28.3 ft (8.6m) in diameter, and for centuries kept Zurich's official time.
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6/25/2022: TAO'S
Position: 47°22.27'N, 8°32.40'E
An excellent first meal in Zurich along the terrace edge at TAO'S Asian restaurant.
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6/25/2022: Pride Parade
Position: 47°22.27'N, 8°32.40'E
June is Pride Month, with LGBTQIA+ celebrations and demonstrations taking place worldwide. From our seat at TOA'S, we caught a bit of this Zurich parade a block away along Bahnhofstrasse. The large banner reads "The first Pride was a riot", referring to the Stonewall uprising in June of 1969 that are considered the beginnings of the Pride movement. A police raid of the Stonewall Inn, an illegal gay bar in lower Manhattan, turned violent when the patrons fought back. Several days of riots ensued, resulting in the start of the movement to demand the right to live openly and legally regardless of sexual orientation.
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6/25/2022: Zeugwartgasse
Position: 47°22.27'N, 8°32.40'E
Restaurant overlooking Zeugwartgasse with St. Peter Church in the background. Zurich is full of appealing restaurants, many with outdoor seating.
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6/25/2022: Sorell Hotel St. Peter
Position: 47°22.24'N, 8°32.44'E
Looking out to the packed courtyard restaurant from the open lobby of the Sorell Hotel St. Peter where we are staying. The entire side of the lobby opens up with folding floor-to-ceiling windows.
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6/25/2022: Limmat
Position: 47°22.28'N, 8°32.57'E
The Limmat River flowing through the Zurich old city, with the steeple of 13th-century Fraumunster church prominent in the skyline. The Limmat flows from nearby Lake Zurich for 22 miles (36 km) into the river Aere, a tributary of the Rhine. As with many Swiss rivers, the Limmat has been extensively developed for hydroelectric power generation with at least 10 power stations along its relatively short length.
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6/25/2022: Aquaretum Fountain
Position: 47°22.00'N, 8°32.55'E
The Aquaretum fountain in Lake Zurich. The fountain was unveiled in 2019, replacing a similar one that reached end of life after 22 years. Through a connection with the earthquake station at the University of Zurich, the jet's shape and size on this new one are algorithmically attuned to the sizes of tremors in the Earth.
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6/25/2022: Sunbeam Tiger
Position: 47°22.10'N, 8°32.51'E
A classic Sunbeam Tiger parked on Stadthausquai in Zurich, along the Limmat River. The small Tiger sports car is most notable for its massive 289-cubic-inch Ford V8, housed up front.
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6/25/2022: Meat Slicers
Position: 47°22.11'N, 8°32.51'E
Meat slicers aren't usually that exciting, but these Berkel flywheel slicers in a Zurich store window looked impressively built and engineered. And they command an equally impressive price: the top section of a similar model sells at Williams-Sonoma for USD $8,200.
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6/25/2022: Bauschanzli
Position: 47°22.06'N, 8°32.56'E
An evening drink at the immensely popular Bauschanzli beer garden in Zurich. The restaurant is built on a 17th-century island fortification in the Limmat River, with water on all sides. Open tables along the water's edge are snapped up literally in seconds.
It's 9pm and we're starting to get a little tired, but so far are experiencing little jetlag. Hopefully we'll sleep well tonight and adjust quickly to the new time zone. |
6/25/2022: Haus Metropol
Position: 47°22.09'N, 8°32.51'E
The striking neo-baroque facade of the Haus Metropol building in Zurich, completed in 1895. The outdoor seating on the marble-floored terrace is popular year-round.
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6/25/2022: Grossmunster
Position: 47°22.14'N, 8°32.43'E
The twin towers of Zurich's 13th-century Grossmunster cathedral lit up at night. One of the towers is open to the public, and we plan to climb up tomorrow.
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6/26/2022: Panzernashorn
Position: 47°22.12'N, 8°32.39'E
Panzernashorn (Rhinocerous) sculpture by Zurich artist John A Tobler (1982) outside the Zuricher Kantonalbank. According to ViewFromTheBack, "It's said to be a symbol of security, strength and steadfastness. Everything we want in a bank, really."
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6/26/2022: Zurich Triathlon
Position: 47°21.90'N, 8°32.29'E
The annual Zurich City Triathlon was taking place as we walked down to Lake Zurich from our hotel. Hundreds of cyclists were riding around the top of the lake along blocked-off General Guisan-Quai. The lake was so warm at 73.6°F (23.1°C) that wetsuits were not allowed for the swim portion.
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6/26/2022: On Board
Position: 47°21.94'N, 8°32.46'E
On board the steam-powered paddle-wheeler Stadt Zurich for a two-hour cruise on Lake Zurich to Rapperswill.
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6/26/2022: Zurich Skyline
Position: 47°21.82'N, 8°32.59'E
The Zurich skyline, viewed from the Stadt Zurich as we depart the dock.
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6/26/2022: Lunch
Position: 47°20.32'N, 8°33.42'E
Lunch on the upper deck of the Stadt Zurich as we cruise Lake Zurich on a warm and sunny day. We really enjoyed being out on the lake and watching as the ship arrived and departed at the various stops along the way.
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6/26/2022: Engine
Position: 47°19.37'N, 8°34.38'E
The exposed engine on the paddle-wheeler Stadt Zurich was very popular with the passengers. The engine, by Escher Wyss & Cie, dates from 1909 as does the ship.
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6/26/2022: Kusnacht
Position: 47°19.15'N, 8°34.68'E
The tree-filled beer garden Sonne am See at Kusnacht, one of eight stops the Stadt Zurich made on the way to Rapperswill.
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6/26/2022: Insel Ufenau
Position: 47°13.09'N, 8°46.60'E
A few passengers got on and off at each stop along the way, but a much larger number disembarked at Insel Ufenau. The island has two medievel churches and is the largest in Switzerland not connected by bridge to the mainland.
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6/26/2022: Paddle Wheel
Position: 47°13.54'N, 8°48.78'E
The paddle wheel of the Stadt Zurich viewed as we disembark at Rapperswill.
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6/26/2022:
Position: 47°13.54'N, 8°48.80'E
Looking to the fine bow of the Stadt Zurich, with the paddle wheels churning up the water, as the ship departs Rapperswill.
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6/26/2022: Buhlerallee
Position: 47°13.57'N, 8°48.81'E
The tree-line Buhlerallee, running along the Lake Zurich shore outside the walls of Rapperswill Castle, visible at right.
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6/26/2022: Rapperswill Castle
Position: 47°13.63'N, 8°48.78'E
After walking the waterline along Buhlerallee, we climbed a few flights of stairs to enter the grounds of 13th century Rapperswill Castle.
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6/26/2022: View
Position: 47°13.62'N, 8°48.78'E
As you would expect from a hilltop fortification, Rapperswill Castle has sweeping views of the the town and Lake Zurich beyond. The dock we landed on is roughly at center, directly above a rooftop.
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6/26/2022: Deer Park
Position: 47°13.62'N, 8°48.78'E
The supervised deer park within the Rapperswill Castle grounds is home to about 15-20 European fallow deer.
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6/26/2022: Hauptplatz
Position: 47°13.64'N, 8°48.96'E
Looking down restaurant-lined Hauptplatz from the Rapperswill Castle battlements.
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6/26/2022: Clock Tower
Position: 47°13.63'N, 8°48.97'E
Rapperswill Castle is built in the shape of an equilateral triangle, with a tower at each corner. This is the five-sided clock tower on the east corner, with the castle behind.
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6/26/2022: St. John's Church
Position: 47°13.64'N, 8°48.98'E
St. John's Church on the Rapperswill Castle grounds was built in the early 13th century and was extended or renovated several times over the centuries.
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6/26/2022: Kanada
Position: 47°13.65'N, 8°49.08'E
Model of a grizzly bear alongside a vacation advertisement for Algonquin Provincial Park in Kanada (Canada) at a travel agency in Rapperswill, Switzerland. James visited Algonquin many times while living in Ottawa during the 1970s.
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6/26/2022: Riesen Rad
Position: 47°13.58'N, 8°48.99'E
Riesen Rad means "travel by bike" in German. Raperswill is a stop along several multi-day cycling holidays through Switzerland.
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6/26/2022: Train Station
Position: 47°13.47'N, 8°49.00'E
At the Rapperswill train station to return to Zurich.
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6/26/2022: Train Routes
Position: 47°24.62'N, 8°37.32'E
The amazing number of train routes in the Lake Zurich area, shown in the Rapperswil station.. The city of Zurich is roughly at center, off the north end of the lake, and Rapperswill is at lower right (click image for a larger view).
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6/26/2022: Frankengasse
Position: 47°22.15'N, 8°32.69'E
Looking up Zurich's narrow alley Frankengasse, created in 1637.
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6/26/2022: Grossmunster
Position: 47°22.19'N, 8°32.66'E
Looking northwest to Grossmunster church, one of the four major churches in Zurich. Construction of the buildings began around 1100 and it was inaugurated about a century later. One of the church's two twin towers is visible on the left. The towers originally were built in the 15th century and replaced by the current towers in 1763 after fire destroyed the original wood constructs.
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6/26/2022: Grossmunster Tower
Position: 47°22.21'N, 8°32.61'E
The view northwest across Zurich from one of the two Grossmunster towers, 187 wooden stairs up from the nave. The clock tower of St. Peter Church, near our hotel, is prominent in the skyline.
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6/26/2022: Grossmunster Model
Position: 47°22.23'N, 8°32.64'E
Model of Grossmunster outside the church. The church and its twin towers are one of the most recognizable landmarks of Zurich.
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6/26/2022: Ford Roadster
Position: 47°22.45'N, 8°32.63'E
A vintage Ford Roadster, carrying the classic Flying Goose hood ornament. The car likely dates from the late 1920s.
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6/26/2022: Cable Car
Position: 47°22.49'N, 8°32.68'E
Old cable cars, converted to dining tables, at Walliser Keller Swiss restaurant in Zurich.
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6/26/2022: Lindenhof
Position: 47°22.38'N, 8°32.48'E
View from the historic park Lindenhof across the river Limmat to eastern sections of Zurich's old town, with Grossmunster church where we just climbed the tower visible at right.
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6/26/2022: Kaiser's Reblaube
Position: 47°22.32'N, 8°32.42'E
The restaurant Kaiser's Reblaube, housed in a striking wood hotel building dating to 1260. The building is known as "Goethe's Bedroom" because the German poet stayed here in 1779.
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6/26/2022: Casco Viejo
Position: 47°22.40'N, 8°32.61'E
One of several excellent courses enjoyed streetside on an old wine barrel at Casco Viejo Tapas restaurant in Zurich.
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6/26/2022: Polybahn
Position: 47°22.60'N, 8°32.66'E
The Polybahn is one of two funicular railways in Zurich and began operating in 1889. The line links Central Square, a transportation hub at the lower station, up to the main building of the public research university ETH Zurich.
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6/26/2022: View from ETH Zurich
Position: 47°22.56'N, 8°32.82'E
Looking across the city from the ETH Zurich campus near the top of the Polybahn line. The steeple of 13th-century Fraumunster church is prominent in the skyline at center, with the clock tower of St. Peter Church near our hotel at right in the distance.
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6/26/2022: Ford StreetKa
Position: 47°22.16'N, 8°32.52'E
A Ford StreetKa parked in Zurich. We've never seen or heard of this model before. The StreetKa is convertible version of the popular Ford Ka, a small, low-cost car sold only in South America, Mexico, India, Europe and South Africa.
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6/26/2022: Bentley
Position: 47°22.12'N, 8°32.52'E
This Bentley parked in Zurich is also a convertible, but is at the other end of the price spectrum from the low-cost Ford StreetKa.
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6/26/2022: Lotus 380
Position: 47°22.09'N, 8°32.50'E
We're seeing lots of interesting cars as we walk through Zurich. With a 375HP engine, this Lotus 380 can do 0-60 MPH in 3.5 seconds.
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6/27/2022: Lake Zurich
Position: 47°17.22'N, 8°34.40'E
Looking east across Lake Zurich as we take a train south from Zurich to Lucerne.
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6/27/2022: Luggage Locker
Position: 47°2.96'N, 8°18.65'E
Checking our bags into the automated locker system at the Lucerne train station. We'll leave our luggage here while we make a day trip to Mount Pilatus, a twenty-minute train ride away. The lockers are reasonably large, but ensuring we can fit our luggage inside is another reason we wanted to have carry-on bags only for this trip to Switzerland.
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6/27/2022: On Board
Position: 47°2.97'N, 8°18.65'E
On board the train from Lucerne to Alpnachstad, at the base of Mount Pilatus.
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6/27/2022: Pilatus-Bhan
Position: 46°57.33'N, 8°16.66'E
At Alpnachstad to take the cogwheel railway (bahn means railway in German) up to Mount Pilatus. The Pilatus-Bahn is the world's steepest cogwheel railway at 48% maximum and 35% average incline.
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6/27/2022: Station
Position: 46°57.33'N, 8°16.65'E
The Pilatus-Bahn station with a display car on the tracks at upper right showing the steepness of the route. The line opened in 1889 under steam power and was electrified in 1937. Depending on snow conditions, the train generally operates from May to October.
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6/27/2022: Pilatuskulm
Position: 46°57.32'N, 8°16.64'E
Map showing Mount Pilatus travel routes from Lucerne (kulm is German for mountain). We took the train from Lucerne to Alpnachstad, at lower left, to take the cogwheel railway to the top. We'll descend via aerial cableway to Kriens, at lower right, and then take a bus back to Lucerne. This is known as the "Silver Round Trip". The "Golden Round Trip" replaces the train from Lucerne with a ride across Lake Lucerne, seen at extreme lower left.
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6/27/2022: First Train
Position: 46°57.34'N, 8°16.64'E
At the front of the train for the first trip of the day from Alpnachstad to Mount Pilatus.
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6/27/2022: Double Cogs
Position: 46°57.32'N, 8°16.63'E
Conventional cogwheel railways have set of teeth mounted vertically on an extra rail (rack) that a cog wheel underneath the train meshes with. Particularly steep railways, such as the 8.3% incline of the West Coast Wilderness Railway we took in Tasmania, use two sets of teeth and cog wheels to always have the train gear engaged in the rack. But even this dual-rack system has a limit of 25% degrees, insufficient for the 48% grade at Mount Pilatus.
The Piluatus-Bahn designers instead used a system where the gear teeth are cut into the sides of the rack and mesh with two horizontal wheels underneath the train, allowing for a gradient of up to 50%. This also solved another concern that the area's high crosswinds would push the train off the track. |
6/27/2022: 1,700 Volts
Position: 46°57.33'N, 8°16.63'E
The voltage reading 1,700 as we ascend in one of the original 1937 electric carriages.
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6/27/2022: Ascending
Position: 46°57.40'N, 8°16.65'E
The double-racked track winding steeply ahead as we ascend on the Pilatus-Bahn.
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6/27/2022: Wolfort Bridge
Position: 46°57.80'N, 8°16.63'E
The Pilatus-Bahn designers faced many challenges besides the steepness of the route. The Wolfort Bridge is a stone bridge with a single span of 75 ft (23m) across the Wolfert Ravine. The bridge slants steeply upwards and curves into a 144-ft (44m) tunnel.
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6/27/2022: Sliding Switch
Position: 46°58.22'N, 8°16.31'E
A major downside of the horizontal cog system is that a standard railway switch cannot be used. The Pilatus-Bahn instead uses a custom sliding switch.
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6/27/2022: Aemsigen Station
Position: 46°58.22'N, 8°16.31'E
One of several mountain houses at Aemsigan Station along the Pilatus-Bahn.
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6/27/2022: Eselwand Precipice
Position: 46°58.57'N, 8°15.58'E
Fog and light rain as we approach one of the four tunnels on the Eselwand Precipice along a ledge blasted out from the hillside. To drill holes and place the blasting charges, workers stood on planks hung on ropes over the edge of the precipice.
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6/27/2022: 7000 ft
Position: 46°58.77'N, 8°15.26'E
At the summit of Mount Pilatus, 7,000 ft (2,132 m) above sea level. The logo of the mountain, a red dragon, derives from the dragon legends that have long been associated with the mountain. In the Middle Ages, people believed healing dragons lived in caverns inside the mountain.
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6/27/2022: Hotel Pilatus Kulm
Position: 46°58.77'N, 8°15.26'E
The historic Hotel Pilatus Kulm has been accepting visitors since 1890. Each room has a spectacular view of the Swiss Alps, but not right now. The fog is so thick this morning that we can barely see the far end of the building. We had a great time riding the railway, so even if the fog doesn't clear, we'll be happy.
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6/27/2022: Alpenhorn
Position: 46°58.77'N, 8°15.26'E
A man playing a traditional Swiss alpenhorn atop Mount Pilatus.
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6/27/2022: Trails
Position: 46°58.75'N, 8°15.34'E
Map at the summit of Mount Pilatus showing the many hiking trails in the area, with the railway shown at left using green icons. The hike from the cogwheel railway station at Alpnachstad to Mount Pilatus (labeled 17) is 5 miles (8km) and takes about 3.5 hours with an altitude gain of 5,300 ft (1,615m). We plan to make some of the shorter hikes to the three viewpoints at upper left: Tomlishorn, Oberhaupt and Esel. (Click image for a larger view.)
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6/27/2022: Esel
Position: 46°58.75'N, 8°15.37'E
A map atop the hill Esel showing what we could see if the fog cleared.
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6/27/2022: Alpine Ibex
Position: 46°58.75'N, 8°15.17'E
An alpine ibex clinging to what appears to be an impossibly steep slope. The Alpine ibex were nearly extinct by the 19th century, with fewer than 100 animals left. All herds today were reintroduced from the stock in Gran Paradiso National Park, created to protect the species from poachers.
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6/27/2022: Tomlishorn Trail
Position: 46°58.66'N, 8°15.05'E
We enjoyed the cliffside trail to Tomlishorn peak. But alas, the view in the thick fog was the same as at Esel.
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6/27/2022: Locking Horns
Position: 46°58.55'N, 8°14.86'E
Two young male ibex locking horns below Tomlishorn peak trail.
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6/27/2022: Clouds Lifted
Position: 46°58.64'N, 8°15.03'E
As we returned from Tomlishorn peak, the clouds suddenly lifted to reveal the valley below.
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6/27/2022: Hanging On
Position: 46°58.65'N, 8°15.03'E
We have no idea how this Alpine ibex is holding on, but the lichen must be really delicious.
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6/27/2022: Pilatus Kulm
Position: 46°58.65'N, 8°15.03'E
The buildings atop Mount Pilatus finally visible when the fog lifted. From left to right is the Hotel Pilatus Kulm, the visitor center, and the circular Hotel Bellevue. The peak Esel that we climbed earlier is at far right.
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6/27/2022: Construction Supplies
Position: 46°58.71'N, 8°15.14'E
Supplies for a construction project at Mount Pilatus being brought across by a temporary cable line.
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6/27/2022: View North
Position: 46°58.82'N, 8°15.16'E
Looking northeast from a pinnacle on the north side of the peak Oberhaupt. Not visible behind the clouds is the aerial cableway that we'll take down to return to Lucerne.
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6/27/2022: Klimsenkapelle
Position: 46°58.77'N, 8°15.18'E
The Klimsenkapelle (Klimsen Chapel) perched below the Oberhaupt peak. The church was inaugurated in 1861 as part of a hotel complex that burned down and was removed in 1967. Since the complex predated the cogwheel railway, early visitors must have arrived on foot or perhaps horseback.
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6/27/2022: Dragon Ride
Position: 46°58.81'N, 8°15.33'E
Passing another car, just visible in the fog, as we descend on the "Dragon Ride" aerial cableway from Pilatus-Bahn to Frakmuntegg station.
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6/27/2022: Fraekmuntegg Station
Position: 46°59.42'N, 8°15.09'E
Fraekmuntegg Station is midway to Kriens at 4,649 ft (1,416 m) above sea level. The station here supports parallel cableway lines with a central structure that slides left or right to accommodate an arriving car.
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6/27/2022: Fraekmuntegg Adventure Park
Position: 46°59.41'N, 8°15.08'E
Fraekmuntegg, at the bottom of the dragon ride, has a number of outdoor adventure activities, including Seilpark Pilatus, Central Switzerland's largest suspension rope park and Fraekigaudi Rodelbahn, the longest summer toboggan run in the country at 4,429 ft (1,350 m).
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6/27/2022: Fraekigaudi Rodelbahn
Position: 46°59.30'N, 8°14.93'E
The toboggan run, Fraekigaudi Rodelbahn, looked like fun, so we signed up. Here James is ready for launch.
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6/27/2022: Cornering
Position: 46°59.30'N, 8°14.98'E
Jennifer rounding the first major corner on the Fraekigaudi Rodelbahn at speed. We had a great time.
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6/27/2022: Reversing
Position: 46°59.37'N, 8°15.50'E
The Fraekigaudi Rodelbahn gets the rider back up to the top by hooking a line on the back of the toboggan and pulling it up in reverse.
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6/27/2022: Lake Lucerne
Position: 46°59.34'N, 8°15.19'E
Being pulled up in reverse gave us an opportunity to take in the great views from the area. This is looking down to Lake Lucerne, with the city of Lucerne out of the picture on the left.
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6/27/2022: Snack
Position: 46°59.32'N, 8°14.93'E
Enjoying a snack with a view at Fraekmuntegg after our toboggan ride.
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6/27/2022: Gondola
Position: 46°59.44'N, 8°15.08'E
Taking a gondola down from Fraekmuntegg to Kriens.
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6/27/2022: View from Gondola
Position: 46°59.94'N, 8°15.36'E
The panoramic gondola between Fraekmuntegg to Kriens has a total altitude gain of (899m) in two tower-less spans, one (2,118 m) long and the second (2,774 m), that connect at Kreinseregg. Here we are are descending towards the station Kreinseregg, visible in the distance, where we will switch to the second span.
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6/27/2022: Kriens
Position: 47°0.84'N, 8°15.88'E
Riding the second span of the panoramic gondola, from Kreinseregg to Kriens, a suburb of Lucerne. Lake Lucerne and the city are visible in the background.
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6/27/2022: Dragon
Position: 47°1.82'N, 8°16.66'E
Wonderful statue of a dragon, the "mascot" of Mount Pilatus, at the Kriens gondola station.
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6/27/2022: Double Articulation
Position: 47°2.92'N, 8°18.37'E
The 81-ft (24.7m) bi-articulated Hess lightTram 25 DC we took back to Lucerne from Kriens.
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6/27/2022: Retrieving Luggage
Position: 47°2.95'N, 8°18.51'E
Retrieving our luggage at the Lucerne train station before heading to our hotel. Being able to store our bags at the train station worked out really well for our day trip to Mount Pilatus.
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6/27/2022: Luzern
Position: 47°3.04'N, 8°18.62'E
A welcome arch outside the Luzern (Lucerne) train station.
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6/27/2022: Escalator Repair
Position: 47°3.05'N, 8°18.54'E
Lots of tools and parts out as an escalator near the Lucerne train station is open for maintenance.
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6/27/2022: Kapellbrucke
Position: 47°3.06'N, 8°18.45'E
The Kapellbrucke (Chapel Bridge) in Lucerne, built in 1360, is the oldest covered bridge in Europe and the oldest truss bridge in the world. In the foreground is the Wasserturm (water tower, as in "tower standing in the water") that was built about a century before the bridge and has been used variously as a prison, torture chamber, treasury and municipal archive.
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6/27/2022: Nadelwehr
Position: 47°3.05'N, 8°18.14'E
The Nadelwehr (Needle Dam) along the River Reusse in Lucerne with the Wasserturm and Kapellbrucke in the background. Completed in 1861, the dam uses wood planks (needles) inserted vertically to obstruct the river flow and is still used today to manually control the water level in Lake Lucerne. Currently the dam is partially open, but the planks can extend all the way across the river to the righmost shore.
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6/27/2022: Restaurant Ammos
Position: 47°3.05'N, 8°18.14'E
A delicious meal along the River Reusse at Restaurant Ammos in Lucerne. The Nadelwehr is on the left and the Wasserturm and Kapellbrucke are just visible in the distance.
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6/27/2022: Barolo
Position: 47°2.89'N, 8°18.25'E
We stopped off for a drink in the bar at Hotel Anker where we are staying in Lucenre. Jennifer loves Barolo so much that she ordered a magnum to take up to our room. Well, not really, but that was the bottle the bar tender poured Jennifer's glass from and we just had to get a picture.
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6/27/2022: Mussegmauer
Position: 47°2.89'N, 8°18.25'E
Two of the nine remaining towers in the Mussegmauer (Musseg Wall), Lucerne's 13th-century city wall, viewed from our hotel room. At left is the undated Mannliturm (Little Man Tower), named after the small figure of a man atop one of the two turrets, and at right is the Luegislandturm (Luegisland Tower), built around 1370. With 2,854 ft (870m) still standing, the Mussegmauer is the longest contiguous preserved wall in Switzerland.
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6/27/2022: Sunset
Position: 47°2.90'N, 8°18.26'E
Enjoying the sunset from the patio of our room at the Hotel Anker in Lucerne. The 13th-century Mussegmauer (Musseg Wall) and four of its towers are visible in the distance (click image for a larger view).
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6/28/2022: Giswil
Position: 46°49.95'N, 8°11.11'E
The town of Giswil, viewed from our train to Interlaken from Lucerne. The parish Church of St. Laurentius, Rudenz, prominent in the background, was completed in 1635.
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6/28/2022: Lungerersee
Position: 46°47.93'N, 8°9.94'E
Passing Lungerersee (German for Lake Lungern) by train. To increase cattle grazing land, the water level in this natural lake was lowered by 188 ft (36 m) starting in 1846 through an artificial 1,250-ft (380 m) drainage tunnel.
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6/28/2022: Incline
Position: 46°46.29'N, 8°9.28'E
Our train is running at a steep incline of 9.3° as we ascend from Lungen at elevation 2,346 ft (715 m) to cross Brunig Pass at 3,307 ft (1,008 m) over a distance of only 2.8 miles (4.5 km).
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6/28/2022: Waterfalls
Position: 46°45.31'N, 8°8.20'E
One of several waterfalls in the Meiringen area. The most famous is the Reichenbach Falls, the fictional deathplace of Sherlock Holmes.
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6/28/2022: Swiss Lunch
Position: 46°44.33'N, 8°10.20'E
A Swiss lunch of cheese, sausage, olives and bread with wine on our train to Interlaken.
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6/28/2022: Brienze
Position: 46°45.29'N, 8°2.45'E
The lake tour boat Brienze, moored in the town of the same name, at the north end of Brienzersee (Lake Brienz).
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6/28/2022: Brienzersee
Position: 46°45.32'N, 8°0.33'E
Looking southwest across Brienzersee (Lake Brienz) to Interlaken (Between Lakes), with the Swiss Alps in the distance. Brienzersee is the northern of the two lakes that border Interlaken.
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6/28/2022: Locker
Position: 46°41.43'N, 7°52.11'E
We stored our bags in a locker at Interlaken train station to spend the afternoon at Harder Kulm (Mount Harder) before continuing on to Murren.
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6/28/2022: Funicular
Position: 46°41.40'N, 7°51.96'E
We'll be taking this funicular to Harder Kulm from Interlaken.
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6/28/2022: Climbing
Position: 46°41.78'N, 7°51.70'E
From an altitude of 1,804 ft (550 m) the funicular climbs 2,408 ft (734 m) to Harder Kulm over a distance of 4,708 ft (1,435 m), with a grade of 51%.
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6/28/2022: Harder Kulm
Position: 46°41.88'N, 7°51.23'E
It's unfortunately very foggy at Harder Kulm today, so we aren't getting much of a view. We can hardly see the restaurant building beyond the entry sign.
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6/28/2022: Viewing Platform
Position: 46°41.83'N, 7°51.10'E
On clear days, the cantilevered platform at Harder Kulm has a spectacular view over Brienzersee and Interlaken. But not today.
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6/28/2022: Brief Clearing
Position: 46°42.14'N, 7°51.75'E
While we were out on a short hike around Harder Kulm, the skies cleared and we got a bit of the view the area is famous for. This is looking south across Interlaken towards the Swiss Alps Jungfrau-Aletsch, a UNESCO World Heritage property.
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6/28/2022: Snail
Position: 46°41.89'N, 7°51.30'E
A snail near the upper station at Harder Kulm. We've seen lots of slugs, but rarely see a snail and shell except in or near the ocean.
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6/28/2022: White Lutschine
Position: 46°37.30'N, 7°54.45'E
The White Lutschine, one of two tributaries of the Lutschine River, viewed from our train to Lauterbrunnen from Interlaken. The river is particularly swollen right now due to recent heavy rains.
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6/28/2022: Lauterbrunnen
Position: 46°35.92'N, 7°54.42'E
At Lauterbrunnen, we transferred from the train to a cable car to continue on to Murren. It's late afternoon and dozens of people are heading up to Murren with us. Most don't have much luggage, so probably are returning from day trips.
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6/28/2022: Staubbach Falls
Position: 46°35.92'N, 7°54.41'E
Looking south to the Lauterbrunnen Valley as we ascend in the cable car to Murren. At right the striking Staubbach Falls spill 974 ft (297 m) down the cliff-face.
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6/28/2022: Grutschalp
Position: 46°35.79'N, 7°53.45'E
At Grutschalp we transferred from the cable car to a train that will take us to Murren. The town cannot be reached by public road, only by cable car and train.
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6/28/2022: Hotel Bellevue
Position: 46°33.62'N, 7°53.65'E
An excellent meal at the Hotel Bellevue in Murren, with a view to the Swiss Alps. We had their amazingly good crisp fried half chicken paired with a delicious Swiss Sauvignon Blanc.
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6/28/2022: Patio View
Position: 46°33.62'N, 7°53.65'E
In the overcast weather we hadn't seen much of the mountains around Murren since we arrived. But shortly after dinner, the skies cleared to reveal the spectacular view from the aptly-named Panorama Deck deck at the Hotel Bellevue.
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6/28/2022: Hotel Eiger
Position: 46°33.82'N, 7°53.81'E
An evening drink enjoying the astounding view from the deck off our room at the Hotel Eiger in Murren. We chose this room specifically for the view, and it was even better than we were expecting.
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6/29/2022: 220V
Position: 46°33.82'N, 7°53.80'E
We've been using our travel kettle a lot since purchasing it for our road trip across the US. The kettle can operate on either 110V or 220V, but we've never used it outside the US until this morning in Murren because our first few Swiss hotels provided in-room coffee makers. It worked perfectly on 220V and we're glad to have brought it along.
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6/28/2022: Cargo Transport
Position: 46°35.80'N, 7°53.46'E
Murren is not accessible by public road and most cargo arrives via one of the two cable car routes that serve the town. Here at the northern station Grutschalp, cargo is carried underneath the cable car. An application-specific forklift moves cargo directly from the cable car to the train and back.
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6/28/2022: Cable Car
Position: 46°35.80'N, 7°53.47'E
We're taking the first train and cable car of the day from Murren down to Lauterbrunnen and only a few people are riding with us compared to yesterday afternoon's crowds on the way up.
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6/28/2022: Lauterbrunnen Valley
Position: 46°35.84'N, 7°53.78'E
View to the Lauterbrunnen Valley from the cable car as we descend from Grutschalp.
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6/28/2022: Lauterbrunnen Station
Position: 46°35.84'N, 7°53.78'E
Approaching the bottom of the cable car run, with the covered tracks of Lauterbrunnen Station visible beyond.
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6/28/2022: To Zweilutschinen
Position: 46°35.92'N, 7°54.42'E
On board a train at Lauterbrunnen Station for our third leg of the day to Zweilutschinen, after taking a train from Murren to Grutschalp and a cable car down.
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6/29/2022: To Grindelwald
Position: 46°38.19'N, 7°56.75'E
On our fourth leg of the day, a train from Zweilutschinen to Grindelwald Terminal.
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6/28/2022: Route to Jungfraujoch
Position: 46°37.53'N, 8°1.05'E
From Grindelwald Terminal, we'll be taking our fifth and sixth legs to reach our ultimate destination of Jungfraujoch plateau. The Eiger Express gondala will carry us from 3,093 ft (943 m) above sea level to Eigergletscher at 7,611-ft (2,320 m). Then we'll take a train to reach Jungfraujoch at 11,332 ft (3,454 m). The plateau lies between 13,642 ft (4,158 m) Jungfrau and 13,480 ft (4,110 m) Monch.
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6/28/2022: Gondola Cables
Position: 46°37.53'N, 8°1.05'E
The Eiger Express is a new gondola cableway that opened in 2020. It uses a tri-cable system that allows for only 7 support towers over a distance of 4 miles (6.4 km). This display shows four of the cable types used. The diameter of the bottom cable is 2.2 inches (58 mm).
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6/28/2022: Eiger Express
Position: 46°37.34'N, 8°1.05'E
On board the Eiger Express, our fifth leg of the day, shortly after departing Grindelwald Terminal. We're on the first run of the day and the car is about two-thirds full.
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6/28/2022: Eiger North Face
Position: 46°36.48'N, 8°0.28'E
The north face of 13,024 ft (3,967 m) Eiger viewed from the Eiger Express gondola. One of the biggest sheer faces in Europe, the north face of Eiger has long been a famous, and deadly, climbing destination. At least sixty-four climbers have died here since 1935.
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6/28/2022: Silberhorn
Position: 46°35.25'N, 7°59.19'E
A mountain peak burst into view soon after we passed the Eiger North Face. We believe this is 12,123 ft (3,695 m ) Silberhorn, a satellite peak of 13,642 ft (4,158 m) Jungfrau.
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6/28/2022: Eigergletscher
Position: 46°34.91'N, 7°58.88'E
Approaching modern Eigergletscher, the top station of the Eiger Express at altitude 7,611-ft (2,320 m).
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6/28/2022: Jungfraubahn
Position: 46°34.53'N, 7°58.55'E
On the Jungfraubahn, the highest railway in Europe, for our sixth and final leg before reaching Jungfraujoch. The narrow-gauge cog railway opened in 1912 and terminates at the highest railway station on the continent.
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6/28/2022: Tunnel Viewpoint
Position: 46°32.92'N, 7°59.09'E
The Jungfraubahn runs above the permanent snow line. To protect the railway from snow and extreme weather, the engineers built a tunnel through adjacent Eiger and Monch. Near the top, the train makes a brief stop at a viewing window cut into the tunnel for our first view to the Aletsch Glacier.
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6/29/2022: Jungfraujoch
Position: 46°32.85'N, 7°59.12'E
On the Sphinx observation terrace at Jungfraujoch in front of 13,480 ft (4,110 m) Monch. The scenery is absolutely amazing. At altitude 11,716 ft (3,571 m), it's the second highest observation deck in Switzerland after the Matterhorn.
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6/29/2022: Aletsch Glacier
Position: 46°32.85'N, 7°59.12'E
View to the Aletsch Glacier from the Sphinx observation terrace at Jungfraujoch. The 14-miles (23 km) glacier is the longest in the Alps.
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6/29/2022: Jungfrau-Aletsch
Position: 46°32.85'N, 7°59.12'E
Jungfraujoch and the Aletcsh Glacier are part of the 318 sq mi (82,388 ha) Swiss Alps Jungfrau-Aletsch UNESCO World Heritage Site. Also included in the site are the mountains 13,480 ft (4,110 m) Monch, partly visible at left, and 13,642 ft (4,158 m) Jungfrau at right.
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6/29/2022: Ice Palace
Position: 46°32.87'N, 7°58.87'E
The Ice Palace is one of several tourist attractions at Jungfraujoch. Everything including the floors is made of ice and the palace is full of ice sculptures, some quite elaborate. This sculpture depicts the outdoor concert the famous pianist Lang Lang gave at Jungfraujoch.
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6/29/2022: Top of Europe
Position: 46°32.86'N, 7°58.85'E
Jungfraujoch bills itself as the "Top of Europe" even though the Matterhorn viewing platform is higher. But we'll play along :). Here Jennifer is standing on the plateau with 13,642 ft (4,158 m) Jungfrau behind.
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6/29/2022: Jungfraujoch Buildings
Position: 46°32.86'N, 7°58.86'E
Looking back from the plateau to the buildings at Jungfraujoch. A new building is under construction in the foreground, with the main visitor center and train station to the right. At top left is the Sphinx Observatory and observation terrace, where we took our first pictures at Jungfraujoch.
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6/29/2022: Sphinx Observatory
Position: 46°32.86'N, 7°58.86'E
The Sphinx Observatory, established in 1937, is one of the highest in the world at 11,716 ft (3,571 m) above sea level. We've visited a higher one: the Canada-France-Hawaii at 13,796 ft (4,205 m) atop Mauna Kea in Hawaii. The highest in the world is the University of Tokyo Atacama Observatory in Chile at 18,500 ft (5,640 m).
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6/29/2022: Snack
Position: 46°32.86'N, 7°58.89'E
Enjoying a snack with a view to Jungfrau from the Jungfraujoch visitor center. While we were there, a helicopter suddenly ascended into view, bringing supplies for a building under construction.
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6/29/2022: Jungfraufirn
Position: 46°32.85'N, 7°59.52'E
After exploring the visitor center, we set off on a 45-minute hike across Jungfraufirn glacier, a tributary of the Alesch Glacier, to the Monchsjochhutte (Monchsjoch Hut) below the mountain Monch. Here is the view back to Jungfraujoch from the trail (click image for a larger view). At left is 13,642 ft (4,158 m) Jungfrau and in the center is the Sphinx Observatory, atop the rocky crag of the same name. An elevator tunneled through the mountain connects the observatory with the station beneath (not visible behind the Sphinx). We're among the first few hikers this morning, but a lot more are coming behind at bottom right.
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6/29/2022: Sphinx Observation Deck
Position: 46°32.88'N, 7°59.44'E
The Sphinx observation terrace, viewed from the trail to Monchsjochhutte. We were one the first few visitors of the day to arrive at Jungfraujoch this morning at 9:15am, and perhaps a dozen other people were there with us. An hour later, it's getting pretty crowded on the terrace, and will keep getting busier until mid-afternoon. Jungfraujoch is a very popular destination.
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6/29/2022: Crevasse
Position: 46°32.89'N, 7°59.71'E
A deep crevasse just off the trail across the Jungfraufirn glacier to Monchsjochhutte.
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6/29/2022: Climbers
Position: 46°33.10'N, 8°0.14'E
Climbers ascending Monch just north of the trail to Monchsjochhutte.
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6/29/2022: Jungfraufirn
Position: 46°33.10'N, 8°0.18'E
The trail across Jungfraufirn is well-marked and well-trod, and easy to walk in just hiking boots. But the snow is quite deep just off the trail. This is the fabulous scenery looking back from near Monchsjochhutte. 13,642 ft (4,158 m) Jungfrau is at top right, and below it are visible the Sphinx and a few hikers (click image for a larger view).
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6/29/2022: Monchsjochhutte
Position: 46°33.13'N, 8°0.27'E
The Monchsjochhutte, owned by the Swiss Alpine Club, hung off a cliff on the edge of Monch at 12,001 ft, (3,658 m). The hut is used for ascents of Monch, Jungfrau, and other mountains in the area.
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6/29/2022: Trugberg
Position: 46°33.29'N, 8°0.36'E
Looking south to the 12,904 ft (3,933 m) mountain Trugberg. A group of explorers attempting to summit Jungfrau in 1841 initially thought this was their destination. After learning their error during the ascent, they named this mountain Trugberg, meaning Deceitful Mountain.
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6/29/2022: Inside Monchsjochhutte
Position: 46°33.28'N, 8°0.36'E
Enjoying a snack inside Monchsjochhutte with a view to Trugberg out the window. Our heart rates were surprisingly high given the hike was only 45 minutes and not very steep. The extreme altitude has a big impact.
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6/29/2022: Hikers
Position: 46°33.29'N, 8°0.33'E
Several groups of hikers sitting outside Monchsjochhutte as we left to return to Jungfraujoch.
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6/29/2022: Jungfraujoch Station
Position: 46°32.86'N, 7°58.88'E
Crowds lining the platform at Jungfraujoch Station around 1:15pm, waiting to descend.
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6/29/2022: Kleine Scheidegg
Position: 46°34.73'N, 7°58.07'E
Train arriving into Kleine Scheidegg as we approach from Jungfraujoch. Rather than get off at Eigergletsher and return on the Eiger Express gondola the way we came, we continued to the end of the line at Kleine Scheidegg and will take a scenic train ride from there back to Lauterbrunnen. This is our seventh leg of the day.
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6/29/2022: Restaurant Eigernordwand
Position: 46°35.19'N, 7°57.69'E
An enjoyable late lunch on the terrace at Restaurant Eigernordwand in Kleine Scheidegg before returning to Murren.
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6/29/2022: Train from Kleine Scheidegg
Position: 46°34.72'N, 7°57.43'E
On board the scenic train from Kleine Scheidegg to Lauterbrunnen. The platform at Kleine Scheidegg was super-crowded and we only barely got a seat together. This is our eighth leg of the day.
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6/29/2022: Jungfrau Northern Wall
Position: 46°34.52'N, 7°57.20'E
The fabulous view to the northern wall of Jungfrau as we descend from Kleine Scheidegg.
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6/29/2022: Funicular
Position: 46°35.92'N, 7°54.42'E
A section of the old funicular railway that ran from Lauterbrunnen to Grutschalp starting in 1891. The cable car we are riding replaced the funicular in 2006. This is our ninth leg of the day, and we have one more to go: the train from Grutschalp to Murren. We really enjoyed taking all the different modes of transport in the area.
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6/29/2022: Hotel Eiger
Position: 46°33.82'N, 7°53.80'E
Happy Hour on the terrace at our hotel, the Hotel Eiger, with its fabulous mountain view.
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6/29/2022: Eiger Guesthouse
Position: 46°33.84'N, 7°53.82'E
Another delicious dinner in Murren, this one at the Eiger Guesthouse near our hotel. The temperature was just warm enough to have our meal outside.
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6/30/2022: Schilthorn Map
Position: 46°33.48'N, 7°53.48'E
We'll be staying in the Murren area today, starting with a trip to 9,744 ft (2,970 m) Schilthorn at upper left. Murren is at lower left at Schilthorn's base and Lauterbrunen, where we connect to trains throughout the area, is at bottom right. To reach Murren from Lauterbrunen, we take a cable car up to Grutschalp, then a train across to Murren. The map also shows the other way to reach Murren via cable car from Stechelberg at bottom left via Gimmelwald.
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6/30/2022: Allmendhubel
Position: 46°33.64'N, 7°53.65'E
The funicular to Murren's "home" mountain, 6,338-ft (1,932 m) Allmendhubel. We walked past it on the way to the cable car station for Schilthorn.
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6/30/2022: Cable Car to Birg
Position: 46°33.51'N, 7°53.08'E
Riding the cable car to Birg station at altitude 8,805 ft (2,684 m). From there, we'll transfer to a second cable car to reach the summit of 9,744 ft (2,970 m) Schilthorn.
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6/29/2022: Piz Gloria
Position: 46°33.71'N, 7°51.46'E
Approaching the summit of Schilthorn, with a view to the revolving restaurant Piz Gloria. The restaurant was the setting for the fortress in the 1969 James Bond movie On Her Majesty's Secret Service. It really does look like a fortress atop the craggy summit of Schilthorn (click image for a larger view).
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6/29/2022: Gun Barrel
Position: 46°33.44'N, 7°50.12'E
The restaurant that was Piz Gloria in the James Bond movie was under construction before the filming and subsequently was named after the fictional fortress. The station is themed on James Bond, with displays and memorabilia from the movie. Here Jennifer is posing with the famous James Bond gun barrel image.
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6/30/2022: View South
Position: 46°33.54'N, 7°49.85'E
The spectacular view south from the summit of 9,744 ft (2,970 m) Schilthorn.
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6/29/2022: Permanent Snow
Position: 46°33.43'N, 7°50.12'E
One of Schilthorn's advertised experiences is "Touch the Snow" at the permanent snow surface on the northern slope. Here a worker is preparing the "permanent" snow for a day of tourists. It's actually a commercial ice-making machine where the output is ground up to form snow.
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6/30/2022: Thun
Position: 46°33.50'N, 7°49.93'E
The view north from Schilthorn across the Thunersee (Thun Lake) to the village of Thun (click image for a larger view).
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6/29/2022: Alpine Rock Jasmine
Position: 46°33.54'N, 7°49.85'E
Not much grows atop 9,744 ft (2,970 m) Schilthorn, but as we walked the trails we did see many colorful displays of wildflowers such as this Alpine Rock Jasmine.
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6/29/2022: No High Heels
Position: 46°33.43'N, 7°50.11'E
It seems fairly self-evident that a steep alpine ski hill isn't the ideal location for high heels, but apparently the mistake has been made :). We saw the same warning at the busy Pulpit Rock hike in Norway.
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6/29/2022: Schilthorn View
Position: 46°33.44'N, 7°50.12'E
The spectacular view east from Schilthorn towards the cable car station at Birg (center). Just to the right of Birg is the triangular peak of 13,024 ft (3,967 m) Eiger, whose north face we passed in the gondola yesterday. The higher mountain farther right, partly in the clouds, is 13,642 ft (4,158 m) Jungfrau (click image for a larger view).
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6/30/2022: Protecting Snow
Position: 46°33.54'N, 7°50.59'E
As we rode down on the cable car from Schilthorn, we saw several places where white tarps covered large areas of snow to preserve it for next year's ski season.
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6/30/2022: Cable Car
Position: 46°33.70'N, 7°51.46'E
Passing another cable car on the ascent as we descend to Birg.
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6/30/2022: Birg Thrill Walk
Position: 46°33.69'N, 7°51.46'E
The Birg Thrill Walk is a series of walkways and tightropes strung out along the cliff beneath the cable car station. Due to blasting activities, only the tightrope was open while we were there. It was a fun experience though, sort of like a via ferrata with training wheels.
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6/30/2022: Murren Via Ferrata
Position: 46°33.56'N, 7°53.74'E
After enjoying the Birg Thrill Walk, we returned back down to Murren for a way bigger thrill walk. The Via Ferrata Murren-Gimmelwald is 1.4-mile (2.2 km) route strung along the cliffs between Murren and Gimmelwald. We rented gear from Intersport in Murren and here are just starting the course.
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6/30/2022: Descending
Position: 46°33.53'N, 7°53.78'E
Unlike most via ferratas, this route descends rather than ascends. We started at Murren at altitude 5,374 ft (1,638 m) and will climb down to Gimmelwald at 4,485 ft (1,367 m).
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6/30/2022: Squirrel Jump
Position: 46°33.46'N, 7°53.76'E
We stopped briefly for a snack and to enjoy the view from this BASE jumping platform hung off the cliff along the via ferrata route. We're 2,200 ft (670 m) up and, even secured with two tethers, getting close to the edge was quite scary.
BASE jumping is an extreme sport where participants leap from fixed objects at great heights and free-fall, using a parachute to eventually land safely. "BASE" is an acronym for the four types of objects that are used: buildings, antenna (such as radio towers), spans (ie. bridges), and earth (such as cliffs). In one form of BASE jumping, that Jennifer calls "squirrel jumping", participants wear winged suits and look somewhat like flying squirrels. BASE jumping is growing in popularity in the area, with several jump locations like this one. Over 20,000 jumps were made in 2016 and the village has three restaurants and bars with a BASE theme. This video shows several people "squirrel-jumping" from the cliffs here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5icNJD7HOE0. Yikes! |
6/30/2022: Paraglider
Position: 46°33.46'N, 7°53.75'E
You know you're high up when you have to look down to see the paragliders. What's even more amazing is that its almost straight down—they're very close to underneath us.
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6/30/2022: Cliffwalk
Position: 46°33.45'N, 7°53.76'E
Just past the jump platform, we started on the Cliff Walk, a series of metal rungs embedded in the cliff 2,200 ft (670 m) above the valley.
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6/30/2022: Footholds
Position: 46°33.45'N, 7°53.76'E
Looking down to Stechelberg as we gingerly make our way along the footholds of the Cliff Walk. The views from here were spectacular and we loved the experience, but we both were nearing our risk tolerance levels on this one.
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6/30/2022: Zip Line
Position: 46°33.37'N, 7°53.74'E
If done as part of a guided group, the via ferrata course includes a zip line ride across a gorge. We're on our own, so we'll cross on a tightrope instead.
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6/30/2022: Murrenbach
Position: 46°33.35'N, 7°53.66'E
James crossing a tightrope over Murrenbach (Murren Creek).
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6/30/2022: Tightrope
Position: 46°33.36'N, 7°53.67'E
Jennifer crossing the tightrope behind James.
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6/30/2022: Lauterbrunnen Valley
Position: 46°33.27'N, 7°53.72'E
View across the Lauterbrunnen Valley just after crossing the tightrope over Murrenbach. The triangular-shaped peak left of center is 12,123 ft (3,695 m) Silberhorn.
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6/30/2022: Stechelberg
Position: 46°33.26'N, 7°53.72'E
A final heart-thumping view to Stechelberg before we enter a slightly less exposed section of the course.
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6/30/2022: Ladders
Position: 46°33.25'N, 7°53.72'E
Climbing down a series of ladders. The undercut face hides the next ladder, so it feels like you'll be heading off the edge until reaching the bottom rung of the current ladder and finding the next one.
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6/30/2022: Wyenbach
Position: 46°33.03'N, 7°53.72'E
Crossing a second tightrope, this one over Wyenback (Wyen Creek).
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6/30/2022: Waterfall
Position: 46°33.03'N, 7°53.71'E
Looking down through the tightrope to the waterfall from Wyenbach.
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6/30/2022: Second Tightrope
Position: 46°33.03'N, 7°53.71'E
Jennifer midway across the second tightrope.
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6/30/2022: Nepalbrucke
Position: 46°32.93'N, 7°53.66'E
The Nepalbrucke (Nepal Bridge) is the final challenge of the Via Ferrata Murren-Gimmelwald. No matter how slowly and carefully you go, the 262-ft (80 m) suspension bridge swings and sways as you cross.
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6/30/2022: View from Nepalbrucke
Position: 46°32.94'N, 7°53.65'E
Looking down to the Lauterbrunnen Valley 1,650 ft (500m) below the Nepalbrucke.
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6/30/2022: Jennifer crossing Nepalbrucke
Position: 46°32.93'N, 7°53.65'E
Jennifer crossing the Nepalbrucke with Stechelberg and the Lauterbrunnen Valley visible in the background.
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6/30/2022: Cable Car
Position: 46°32.93'N, 7°53.65'E
The cable car from Stechelberg to Gimmelwald passing below us.
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6/30/2022: Lunch
Position: 46°32.80'N, 7°53.59'E
The via ferrata course ends at Gimmelwald shortly after crossing the Nepalbrucke. We stopped there at Mountain Hostel for a delicious pizza lunch with a mountain view.
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6/30/2022: Gimmelwald Station
Position: 46°32.83'N, 7°53.62'E
At Gimmelwald Station to take a cable car back up to Murren. Here a car is arriving from Stechelberg.
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6/30/2022: Cliff
Position: 46°32.83'N, 7°53.61'E
View to the cliff we just crossed from Gimmelwald Station. The red zip line support is just visible in the trees at upper left (click image for a larger view).
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6/30/2022: Route
Position: 46°32.83'N, 7°53.62'E
Map of the area showing the via ferrata route at bottom right, labelled with '9' (click image for a larger view). Murren is at far right and Gimmelwald is at center near the bottom. We had a fabulous time and are really glad we did the course.
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6/30/2022: Laundry
Position: 46°33.83'N, 7°53.81'E
The Hotel Eiger laundered our clothes and returned them beautifully folded in a lined wicker basket.
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6/30/2022: Double Rainbow
Position: 46°33.83'N, 7°53.80'E
A double rainbow viewed from our hotel room at the Hotel Eiger in Murren.
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6/30/2022: Schwarzmonch
Position: 46°33.82'N, 7°53.81'E
After the rainbow, the skies cleared and we got a fabulous view to 8690-ft (2,649 m) Schwarzmonch (German for "Black Monk") rising up from the far side of the Lauterbrunnen Valley with the peak of 12,123 ft (3,695 m) Silberhorn visible behind at right. At left is 13,480 ft (4,110 m) Monch.
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6/30/2022: Silberhorn
Position: 46°33.82'N, 7°53.81'E
The view from the Hotel Eiger in Murren to the glacier between 12,123-ft (3,695 m) Siberhorn (left) and 11,953 (3,643 m) Goldenhoren, with the peak of 8690-ft (2,649 m) Schwarzmonch partly visible in front.
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6/30/2022: Hotel Eiger
Position: 46°33.82'N, 7°53.80'E
An excellent meal at the Hotel Eiger, where we are staying in Murren, with a view to 8690-ft (2,649 m) Schwarzmonch. The food in Murren, and all of Switzerland, has been top-quality.
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6/30/2022: Evening View
Position: 46°33.82'N, 7°53.80'E
Enjoying the evening view from the deck of our room at the Hotel Eiger in Murren as clouds descend. The temperature has fallen, so we're wearing our warmer coats outside tonight.
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7/1/2022: 8.5 Degrees
Position: 46°35.72'N, 7°54.83'E
We're on an 8.5-degree incline as our train climbs from Lauterbrunnen towards Wengen. We're traveling on the Wengeralpbahn, the longest cog railway in the world at 12 miles (19 km) between Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald, with a maximum incline of 25%.
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7/1/2022: Pasta & More
Position: 46°36.34'N, 7°55.26'E
An enjoyable lunch by the window at Pasta & More in Wengen.
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7/1/2022: Open-Air Balcony
Position: 46°36.38'N, 7°55.30'E
A new cableway between Wengen and Mannlichen opened in 2018 with an open-air upper balcony on the cars. We loved it.
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7/1/2022: Wengen
Position: 46°36.38'N, 7°55.30'E
The view down to the town of Wengen as we ascend in the cable car to Mannlichen.
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7/1/2022: Into the Clouds
Position: 46°36.43'N, 7°55.46'E
A cable car descending from the clouds envoloping Mannlichen as we ascend from Wengen. Unfortunately the day is quite overcast, so we aren't likely to get much of a view at the top.
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7/1/2022: Still Fun
Position: 46°36.52'N, 7°55.71'E
We're in the clouds now as we continue to ascend to Mannlichen. We can't see much, but we're still having fun.
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7/1/2022: Mannlichen
Position: 46°36.81'N, 7°56.47'E
In the fog at Mannlichen station.
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7/1/2022: The Royal View
Position: 46°37.04'N, 7°56.31'E
A short hike from Mannlichen station leads to the summit of 7,687-ft (2,342 m) Mannlichen and the "Royal View", where on a clear day Jungfrau, Monch and Eiger dominate the skyline. But in today's overcast weather, we can barely see the crown that surrounds the viewpoint.
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7/1/2022: Trampoline
Position: 46°36.29'N, 7°57.92'E
James enjoying the trampoline at a playground in Mannlichen as we walk down to Kleine Scheidegg.
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7/1/2022: Reservoir
Position: 46°36.61'N, 7°56.59'E
The clouds cleared a bit to reveal sections of the valley below Mannlichen. The reservoir pictured is used for making snow in the winter. This is a popular ski area with several ski lifts operating in the winter.
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7/1/2022: Alpenrose
Position: 46°36.16'N, 7°57.14'E
Colorful alpenrose growing alongside the trail from Mannlichen to Kleine Scheidegg. The alpenrose is a member of the Rhododendron family, and looks like a miniature version of the larger plants that are common in the Pacific Northwest.
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7/1/2022: Viewing Tower
Position: 46°35.35'N, 7°57.66'E
On a clear day, this tower above Restaurant Grindelwaldblick has a wonderful view down into Kleine Scheidegg.
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7/1/2022: 9.5 Degrees
Position: 46°34.54'N, 7°56.35'E
From Kleine Scheidegg, where we had lunch after visiting Jungfraujock, we took the train back down to Lauterbrunnen. We are at an angle of 9.5° as we descend through Wengeralp. 9.5° degrees in a train feels very steep indeed.
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7/1/2022: Lauterbrunnen Valley
Position: 46°36.43'N, 7°55.09'E
A great view to the Lauterbrunnen Valley as we pop back out from below the clouds just past Wengen en route to Lauterbrunnen.
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7/1/2022: Footbridge
Position: 46°35.86'N, 7°54.52'E
We'd been to Lauterbrunnen station several times en route to and from Murren, but hadn't walked around town yet. We particularly wanted to check out this footbridge over the White Lutschine, one of two tributaries of the Lutschine River.
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7/1/2022: Staubbach Falls
Position: 46°35.86'N, 7°54.53'E
The Staubbach Falls just outside Lauterbrunnen spill 974 ft (297 m) down a sheer cliff face.
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7/1/2022: Train Descending
Position: 46°35.85'N, 7°54.45'E
A train from Wengen, descending the slope down into Lauterbrunnen along the route we just took.
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7/1/2022: Swiss Travel Pass
Position: 46°35.93'N, 7°54.43'E
We bought a 15-day Swiss Travel Pass that covers most train, bus and boat trips to and within cities and villages in Switzerland, with a discount on other forms of travel such as funicular, cable way or cog railway. Not having to decide on our routing in advance or waste time purchasing last-minute tickets at kiosks has been super-convenient. The conductors simply scan the ticket on our phones when they make their rounds.
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7/1/2022: BASE Jumpers
Position: 46°34.90'N, 7°53.76'E
A group of BASE jumpers were on our train to Murren. The label on the black pack of the man standing at center reads adrenalineBASE, a French company that makes BASE jumping gear. Their web site has some exciting photographs and video.
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7/1/2022: Snow Blower
Position: 46°33.59'N, 7°53.66'E
An impressive-looking Yanase Y10-22G snow thrower parked in Murren. Depending on conditions, the machine can throw snow up to 82 ft (25 m) operating on a Briggs and Stratton 22 HP 2-cylinder engine.
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7/1/2022: Happy Hour
Position: 46°33.59'N, 7°53.66'E
Happy Hour street-side on the terrace of the Restaurant Stagerstubli in Murren.
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7/1/2022: Hotel Bellevue
Position: 46°33.62'N, 7°53.65'E
For our fourth and final dinner in Murren, we returned to the Hotel Bellevue for their delicious crisp fried chicken.
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7/2/2022: Morning View
Position: 46°33.82'N, 7°53.80'E
A final mountain view from our room at the Hotel Eiger in Murren on a beautifully clear day. We'll be taking the first train this morning at 7am to travel to Zermatt.
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7/2/2022: Paring Knife
Position: 46°33.82'N, 7°53.80'E
We are usually up before 5am and are hungry for breakfast well before most hotels are serving. Since we can't bring our paring knife on the plane to Switzerland, we bought a temporary one at the Murren grocery store for while we're here. We also picked up some fresh fruit and milk that we kept in our in-room fridge, plus some granola. With our travel kettle and a couple of place settings from the hotel, we're well-equipped to make a complete breakfast in our room.
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7/2/2022: Murren to Zermatt
Position: 46°33.86'N, 7°53.85'E
Our route from Murren to Zermatt today will have six legs and take just over three hours. We'll take the train to Grutschalp and a cable car to Lauterbrunnen, then trains to Interlaken, Spiez, Visp and finally, Zermatt. Train travel in Switzerland is very precise and efficient. Our connection time between trains usually is less than 15 minutes.
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7/2/2022: To Grutschalp
Position: 46°34.27'N, 7°53.97'E
On board the train from Murren to Grutschalp with all our luggage. We're really liking having only carry-on bags with us given the number of transfers we sometimes have to make.
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7/2/2022: Jungfraujoch
Position: 46°35.79'N, 7°53.45'E
It is rare to have a day clear enough to see Jungfraujoch from the Murren area. We were lucky to get this shot from Grutschalp.
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7/2/2022: To Lauterbrunnen
Position: 46°35.93'N, 7°54.43'E
On our second leg of the journey to Zermatt, the cable car down to Lauterbrunnen. Not many people are on the first run of the day.
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7/2/2022: To Interlaken
Position: 46°35.91'N, 7°54.47'E
Ready for our third leg of the day, a train from Lauterbrunnen to Interlaken.
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7/2/2022: To Spiez
Position: 46°41.46'N, 7°52.19'E
In Interlaken after boarding the train to Speiz, the fourth leg of the day.
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7/2/2022: Harder Kulm
Position: 46°40.42'N, 7°50.12'E
A clear view to Harder Kulm and paragliders below, as our train departs Interlaken.
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7/2/2022: Thunersee
Position: 46°39.72'N, 7°44.44'E
Passing along the south side of Thunersee (Lake Thun), that we could see from atop Schilthorn a couple of days ago. Thunersee is the second of the two lakes that border Interlaken (Between Lakes). The other is Brienzersee that we passed alongside when we arrived into the area from Lucerne. Harder Kulm is roughly at center in the distance.
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7/2/2022: Spiez
Position: 46°41.16'N, 7°40.81'E
At Spiez station waiting for our train to Visp, the fifth leg of the day.
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7/2/2022: 93 MPH
Position: 46°36.49'N, 7°40.15'E
We're traveling south at 93 mph (149 kph) underneath the Swiss Alps through the Lotschberg Base Tunnel. Most of the trains we've been riding over the past few days seldom exceeded 100 kph, and the cog rails are much slower.br>
Completed in 2007, the 21.48-mile (34.57 km) Lotschberg Base Tunnel runs 1,300 ft (400 m) below the 1913 Lotschberg Tunnel. The new tunnel was built mainly to improve throughput of freight traffic, which had increased tenfold between the 1980s and the 2000s. |
7/2/2022: To Zermatt
Position: 46°17.64'N, 7°52.92'E
Aboard our sixth and final leg of the day, a scenic train from Visp to Zermatt.
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7/2/2022: Vineyards
Position: 46°14.54'N, 7°52.50'E
Vineyards covering the hills around Ackersand in the Canton of Valais, a major Swiss wine district.
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7/2/2022: Swiss Travel Pass
Position: 46°14.54'N, 7°52.50'E
The conductor scanning our Swiss Travel Pass on the train to Zermatt.
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7/2/2022: Brunneghorn
Position: 46°13.50'N, 7°51.23'E
The ride through valley of St. Niklaus through to Zermatt is one of the most scenic in Switzerland. This is 14,783 ft (4,506 m) Weisshorn, a major peak in the Swiss Alps.
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7/2/2022: Bis Glacier
Position: 46°6.55'N, 7°47.13'E
Bis Glacier hangs steeply on the cliffs of Weisshorn and poses a major avalanche risk to the town of Randa below. A sophisticated monitoring system has been installed to detect avalanches and automatically close the road below.
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7/2/2022: Zermatt Marathon
Position: 46°4.17'N, 7°46.47'E
Runners taking part in the Zermatt marathon that starts in St. Niklaus, about 8 miles (13km) behind us. Reservations can be made for an earlier train on this route that leaves St. Niklaus when the race starts. Dubbed the "Travelling Bleachers", passengers can ride along and watch the race progress.
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7/2/2022: Marathon Course
Position: 46°3.24'N, 7°46.31'E
The Zermatt Marathon is considered one of the most challenging in Europe. The race starts at St. Niklaus at an altitude of 3,661 ft (1,116 m), ascends through Zermatt at 5,314 ft (1,620 m) and finishes at Riffelberg at 8,480 (2,585 m) for a total altitude gain of 4,819 ft (1,469 m) over 26 miles (42 km). And if that isn't challenging enough, competitors in the Ultra-Marathon continue up to Gornergrat at 10,134 ft (3,089 m), for a total altitude gain of 6,473 ft (1,973 m) and a total distance of 28.3 miles (45.6 km). A half-marathon will also be run from Zermatt up to Riffelberg.
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7/2/2022: Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn
Position: 46°1.48'N, 7°44.89'E
The scenic train, the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn, that we just took from Visp to Zermatt. The scenery really was spectacular.
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7/2/2022: Runners Arriving
Position: 46°1.46'N, 7°44.90'E
Marathon runners passing through Zermatt as we exit the train station.
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7/2/2022: Gornergrat Bahn Station
Position: 46°1.43'N, 7°44.91'E
We'll be taking the Gornergrat Bahn train tomorrow morning. We have a priority boarding reservation, but needed to stopped in at the station to pickup a Peak2Peak day pass that will cover the train ride, plus the cableways to Matterhorn Glacier Paradise. The Gornergrat Bahn ride is very popular and the station was jammed.
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7/2/2022: Half Marathon
Position: 46°1.43'N, 7°44.91'E
The Zermatt Half Marathon was just getting started as we left the Gornergrat Bahn station for our hotel.
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7/2/2022: The Matterhorn!
Position: 46°1.41'N, 7°44.97'E
As we were walking through Zermatt to our hotel, we turned around and were super-excited to see the Matterhorn for the first time. Wow!
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7/2/2022: L‘ Atelier Grandsire
Position: 46°1.36'N, 7°45.05'E
Cable car table at L'Atelier Grandsire in Zermatt.
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7/2/2022: Tunnel to Hotel
Position: 46°1.30'N, 7°45.12'E
Our hotel, the Chalet Hotel Schonegg, is on the hill above us. To make it more accessible from street level, they've built a tunnel to an elevator to reach the hotel.
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7/2/2022: Drinks with a View
Position: 46°1.31'N, 7°45.15'E
The Chalet Hotel Schonegg has a fabulous deck with a view to the Matterhorn, reflected in the window behind us.
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7/2/2022: Us with Matterhorn
Position: 46°1.30'N, 7°45.15'E
We asked the waiter if he could take the previous picture with the reflection, which he did. But he also suggested just taking one of us with the mountain. It's a pretty nice picture—why didn't we think of that? :)
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7/2/2022: Paragliders
Position: 46°1.31'N, 7°45.15'E
Paragliders in front of the Matterhorn (click image for a larger view). We cannot get enough of that mountain, it's just so amazing to see it in person.
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7/2/2022: Edelweiss
Position: 46°1.30'N, 7°45.15'E
The Edelweiss Mountain Restaurant and Hotel, viewed from the terrace of the Chalet Hotel Schonegg. No roads reach the Edelweiss and the only way in or out is a 45-minute hike.
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7/2/2022: Sunnegga Funicular
Position: 46°1.23'N, 7°45.82'E
On board the funicular from the base station near our hotel at 5,301 ft (1,616 m) up to Sunnegga at 7,480 ft (2,280 m). The lower station is accessed through a tunnel deep into the mountain and we're currently still underground.
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7/2/2022: Sunnega
Position: 46°1.01'N, 7°46.17'E
Zermatt Marathon participants running through Sunnega, the top of the funicular, with the ever-present Matterhorn in the background.
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7/2/2022: Matterhorn Glacier Paradise
Position: 46°0.93'N, 7°46.18'E
View from Sunnega to the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise station, the highest mountain station in Europe at 12,739 ft (3,883 m) above sea level. We'll be visiting there tomorrow.
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7/2/2022: Walking to Findeln
Position: 46°0.81'N, 7°46.22'E
On a 25-minute walk down from Sunnega to the small hamlet of Findeln for lunch, with great Matterhorn views along the way.
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7/2/2022: Eggen
Position: 46°0.81'N, 7°46.22'E
Passing traditional mountain houses in the hamlet of Eggen en route from Sunnega to Findeln.
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7/2/2022: Restaurant Findlerhof
Position: 46°0.66'N, 7°45.85'E
We arrived at Restaurant Findlerhof in Findeln just before the lunch crowd and got this wonderful table on the edge of the terrace with a fabulous view to the Matterhorn. We're pretty much refusing to do anything here unless we can see that mountain :-).
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7/2/2022: Walliserteller
Position: 46°0.66'N, 7°45.85'E
For lunch we shared a fresh green salad and this traditional Walliserteller (Valais platter) of local cold cuts and cheese shavings. It tasted as good as it looked.
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7/2/2022: Runners
Position: 46°0.66'N, 7°45.85'E
High above Restaurant Findlerhof we could see Zermatt Marathon runners on the penultimate leg between Grunsee and Riffelalp. The grade on this section is fairly flat, with even a little bit of a descent, before the final leg with its gain of 1,181 ft (360 m) over 1.9 miles (3 km) for an average slope of 8.3%.
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7/2/2022: Leisse Shuttle
Position: 46°0.96'N, 7°46.24'E
The walk back to Sunnega from Findeln has an altitude gain of 779-ft (235 m). We cut off the last 137 ft (42 m) by taking the Leisee Shuttle funicular up to Sunnega.
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7/2/2022: To Blauherd
Position: 46°1.05'N, 7°46.63'E
Riding an 8-person gondola from Sunnega up to Blauherd.
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7/2/2022: View to Sunnega
Position: 46°1.08'N, 7°47.30'E
Looking back down to Blauherd at altitude 8,872 ft (2,705 m) from the cable car to Rothorn, with the Matterhorn visible in the distance.
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7/2/2022: Panorama
Position: 46°1.26'N, 7°47.86'E
The fabulous view west from Rothorn at altitude 10,180 ft (3,103 m). The Matterhorn is just right of center and Gornergrat station is atop the closest mountain on the left (click image for a larger view).
Gornergrat is the finish line for the Zermatt Ultra-Marathon. At 10,134 (3,089 m), its pretty much the same altitude as we've reached with a funicular from Zermatt and two gondola rides. It's hard to imagine running that far up, especially since Zermatt isn't even the race starting point. |
7/2/2022: Love Matterhorn
Position: 46°0.96'N, 7°47.33'E
Yes, we love the Matterhorn!
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7/2/2022: Beacon Check
Position: 46°1.29'N, 7°47.84'E
Avalanche beacon check sign at Rothorn. The area is covered in ski slopes and chair lifts and must be very busy in the winter.
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7/2/2022: Stellisee
Position: 46°0.80'N, 7°47.92'E
From Rothorn, we made a short walk to the lake Stellisee. This is looking east across Stellisee, with the restaurant Fluhalp visible atop the crest in the distance (click image for a larger view).
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7/2/2022: Blue Lounge
Position: 46°1.01'N, 7°47.21'E
Back down in Blauherd enjoying a break and the Matterhorn view from the terrace of the Blue Lounge.
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7/2/2022: Gornergrat
Position: 46°1.01'N, 7°47.21'E
Looking south from Blauherd to the observatory building and train station at Gornergrat. We'll be visiting there first thing tomorrow morning.
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7/2/2022: Bahnhofstrasse
Position: 46°1.42'N, 7°44.88'E
Walking busy Bahnhofstrasse back down in Zermatt.
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7/2/2022: Hinterdorfstrasse
Position: 46°1.25'N, 7°44.85'E
Walking through Hinterdorfstrasse, Zermatt's old town, where some buildings date to the 15th-century. Most rest atop stone slabs balanced on poles, a design used to protect the food stored inside from rodents and other animals.
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7/2/2022: Dinner
Position: 46°1.31'N, 7°45.15'E
A delicious dinner on the terrace at our hotel, the Chalet Hotel Schonegg, with a Matterhorn view.
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7/2/2022: Sunset
Position: 46°1.31'N, 7°45.15'E
The evening sun setting the Matterhorn aglow, viewed from the terrace of our room at the Petit Chalet Schonegg. We stayed here specifically for a Matterhorn view, and were very happy with the room.
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7/2/2022: Dusk
Position: 46°1.32'N, 7°45.16'E
As night fell, we were super-excited to see lights on the Matterhorn (at bottom left and center—click image for a larger view). These are from climbing huts atop the mountain.
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7/3/2022: Sunrise
Position: 46°1.32'N, 7°45.16'E
The Matterhorn colored pink in the morning sun.
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7/3/2022: Morning Coffee
Position: 46°1.32'N, 7°45.16'E
Making coffee in our hotel room using our 110V/220V travel kettle and a collapsible silicone Kuissential SlickDrip coffee filter holder.
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7/3/2022: Power Strip
Position: 46°1.32'N, 7°45.16'E
Our travel kit includes a 10ft power strip extension cord that we use constantly. Hotel rooms often have an insufficient number of power outlets, or they are located in inconvenient places. The power strip allows us to have 8 AC wall outlets and 4 USB outlets wherever we want. It's particularly useful here in Europe because we need only a single Swiss-to-US wall adapter to power all our devices.
Here we've got 6 AC outlets and all 4 USB outlets in use with our travel kettle, 2 laptops, 2 cell phones, a camera battery charger, an electric shaver, 2 Fitbit watches, a portable battery, a Sonos Roam speaker and a travel router. |
7/3/2022: Fresh Fruit
Position: 46°1.30'N, 7°45.16'E
Fresh fruit with our breakfast using the paring knife we picked up in Murren and some dishes from the hotel room.
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7/3/2022: Gornergrat Railway
Position: 46°1.41'N, 7°44.98'E
On board the Gornergrat cog railway for the first run of the day at 8:00 am. Completed in 1898, the line was the first electric rack railway in Switzerland, is the highest open-air railway in the continent, and is the second highest railway in Europe after the Jungfraubahn.
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7/3/2022: Gornergrat View
Position: 46°1.13'N, 7°45.08'E
The view into Zermatt from the Gornergrat railway as we ascend towards Gornergrat, with the Matterhorn in the background.
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7/3/2022: 13.6 Degrees
Position: 46°0.75'N, 7°45.00'E
The incline is a steep 13.6° as we approach the Findelbach station.
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7/3/2022: Riffelberg
Position: 45°59.86'N, 7°45.65'E
Looking down to Riffelberg station from the Gornergrat railway at altitude 8,164 ft (2,489 m). We'll be taking the train all the way up to Gornergrat, then will walk down to Riffelberg and take the cable car back down to the valley.
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7/3/2022: Finish Line
Position: 45°59.86'N, 7°45.65'E
Riffelberg was the finish line for the Zermatt Marathon and Half-Marathon yesterday.
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7/3/2022: Gornergrat
Position: 45°58.99'N, 7°47.05'E
Gornergrat station, at altitude 10,135 ft (3,089 m ) is the highest open-air station in Europe. The building prominent is the Gornergrat Kulm Hotel and Observatory, completed in 1907. Inside left dome is the KOSMA radio telescope and the right dome contains Gornergrat Infrared Telescope.
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7/3/2022: Train Departing
Position: 45°59.00'N, 7°46.93'E
Our train departing Gornergrat station.
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7/3/2022: Gornergletscher
Position: 45°59.00'N, 7°47.00'E
The views from Gornergrat are spectacular. This is the Gornergletscher (Gorner Glacier), by area the second largest glacier system in the Alps after the Aletsch Glacier at Jungfrau. Partly visible at left is Dufourtsptize, the tallest mountain in Switzererland at 15,203-ft (4,634m).
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7/3/2022: Monte Rosa Hut
Position: 45°59.00'N, 7°47.08'E
The Monte Rosa Hut, at altitude 9,459 ft (2,883 m), is visible from Gornergrat on the other side of Gornergletscher. Owned by the Swiss Alpine club, the hut is the start of the normal route to summit the area mountains. The modern hut opened in 2009, replacing one that stood since 1895, and is a hi-tech, energy-wise structure that uses solar energy for 90% of its power needs. It sleeps 120 people and sees 8,000 guests a year.
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7/3/2022: Sonnenweg
Position: 45°59.02'N, 7°46.62'E
On the 2-mile (3.1km) Sonnenweg trail from Gornergrat down to Riffelberg, with the fabulous Matterhorn constantly in view.
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7/3/2022: Breithorn
Position: 45°59.04'N, 7°46.53'E
Spectacular Alps view from the Sonnenweg trail, with 13,661-ft (4,164m) Breithorn left of center and the Matterhorn at right. Directly below the Matterhorn is Riffelsee, a small lake famous for pictures of the Matterhorn reflected in its surface.
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7/3/2022: Sheep
Position: 45°59.02'N, 7°45.91'E
Distinctive Valais black-nosed sheep grazing near the Sonnenweg trail. The sheep, a source of both meat and wool, originated in the Valais area of Switzerland and were raised only here until the past decade when several interested breeders imported some to the UK.
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7/3/2022: Riffelsee
Position: 45°59.02'N, 7°45.82'E
The day was calm and clear, producing a the famous view of the Matterhorn reflected in the Riffelsee.
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7/3/2022: Boulder View
Position: 45°59.02'N, 7°45.50'E
Jennifer taking in the view to the Matterhorn from atop a boulder just west of the Riffelsee.
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7/3/2022: Marmots
Position: 45°59.27'N, 7°45.30'E
Well-fed marmots on the hillside above Riffelberg.
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7/3/2022: Nearing Riffelberg
Position: 45°59.40'N, 7°45.33'E
Spectacular view across Riffelberg and the Matteral Valley to 13,848-ft (4,221 m) Zinalrothorn, left and 14,783-ft (4,506 m) Weisshorn. The mountain in the foreground, to the right of Weisshorn, is 11,174-ft (3,406m) Mettelhorn. The summit of Mettelhorn can be reached from Zermatt in a 10-mile, roughly 9-hour hike that passes by the hilltop Restaurant Edelweiss we could see from our hotel plus another restaurant en route. With over 250 miles (400km) of trails, this is just one of many dozens of hikes in the area.
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7/3/2022: Riffelberg Express
Position: 45°59.58'N, 7°45.23'E
Aboard the Riffelberg Express down to Furi station where we'll then ride up to Matterhorn Glacier Paradise.
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7/3/2022: Schweigmatte Flow
Position: 45°59.77'N, 7°44.76'E
The Schweigmatte Flow trail, viewed from the Riffelberg Express, is one of many flow trails being built in Switzerland and world-wide. Flow trails are purpose-built mountain bike routes that are relatively easy to ride. They always have a smooth surface, with no rocks or tree routes, and are suitable for inexperienced mountain bikers and e-bikes or mountain bikes with little suspension, but also still exciting for experienced riders.
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7/3/2022: Cable Reel
Position: 46°0.11'N, 7°43.91'E
A huge reel of cable at the Furi station, where we will transfer to ride up to Matterhorn Glacier Paradise.
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7/3/2022: Matterhorn Express
Position: 45°59.94'N, 7°43.53'E
At altitude 6,706 ft (2,045 m) as we approach Schwarzsee on the Matterhorn Express, with Zermatt visible behind.
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7/3/2022: Switching Lines
Position: 45°59.56'N, 7°42.60'E
At Schwarzsee, we were expecting to get off and transfer to another gondola to reach Trockener Steg, but we didn't have to. At Schwarzsee, the gondola detached from the line between Furi and Schwarzsee and re-attached to the next line. It was a pretty impressive design that we'd not seen before.
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7/3/2022: Matterhorn Express View
Position: 45°59.44'N, 7°42.58'E
A great view to the Matterhorn from the Matterhorn Express as we ascend from Schwarzsee.
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7/3/2022: Furgg
Position: 45°59.39'N, 7°42.59'E
From Schwarzsee at elevation 8,474 ft (2,583m) we are descending to Furg at elevation 7,979 ft (2,432m). There our gondola will transfer one more time, this time onto the line to Trockener Steg.
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7/3/2022: Theodulgletscher
Position: 45°57.46'N, 7°43.47'E
Passing close to the Theodulgletscher (Theodul Glacier) as we near the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise station atop Klein Matterhorn.
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7/3/2022: Matterhorn Glacier Paradise
Position: 45°56.31'N, 7°43.80'E
At altitude 12,740 ft (3,883 m) on the viewing platform atop Matterhorn Glacier Paradise, the highest mountain station in Europe. The Matterhorn is behind us on the left, with the summit hidden in the clouds.
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7/3/2022: Breithorn West
Position: 45°56.30'N, 7°43.75'E
View to the west side of 13,661-ft (4,164m) Breithorn from the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise viewing platform. We saw the east side earlier today while walking the Sonnenwag trail down from Gornergrat.
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7/3/2022: Hikers
Position: 45°56.30'N, 7°43.75'E
Hikers ascending Breithorn. This is one of the easiest peak in the Alps to summit, taking about 3:30 return from Klein Matterhorn. But the hike is across a glacier, so special equipment such as ice axes, crampons and ropes are needed, and inexperienced climbers should hire a guide.
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7/3/2022: Gobba di Rollin
Position: 45°56.30'N, 7°43.80'E
Chair lifts from Klein Matterhorn to 12,792 ft (3,899 m) Gobba di Rollin along the Swiss-Italian border. This is the highest ski lift in Europe.
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7/3/2022: Zermatt Snow Park
Position: 45°56.30'N, 7°43.80'E
The Klein Matterhorn is year-round ski area, and dozens of people were out on the slopes at Zermatt Snow Park.
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7/3/2022: Klein Matterhorn
Position: 45°56.23'N, 7°43.76'E
Looking back to the 12,740 ft (3,883 m) peak Klein Matterhorn and the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise station. The viewing platform we were on earlier is at upper right.
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7/3/2022: Pisten Bully
Position: 45°56.23'N, 7°43.76'E
A capable-looking Pisten Bully snow groomer 600 Polar W at Klein Matterhorn. The vehicle has autonomous steering, automatically adjusts the milling depth on hilly ground, and can operate on steep slopes via the winch arm at left.
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7/3/2022: Restaurant
Position: 45°56.20'N, 7°43.70'E
A drink with a view at the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise restaurant, the highest restaurant in Europe. The Matterhorn, with the tip shrouded in clouds, is visible out the window.
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7/3/2022: Descending from Klein Matterhorn
Position: 45°56.41'N, 7°43.73'E
The view north across Theodulgletscher as we descend from Klein Matterhorn.
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7/3/2022: Crystal Ride
Position: 45°56.88'N, 7°43.63'E
Enjoying the fabulous views as we soar above the Theodulgletscher with the Matterhorn emerged from the clouds. We upgraded to the Crystal Ride for a glass-bottomed car. Few people seemed to know about the upgrade, and despite the crowds up top, we had the 24-person car all to ourselves.
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7/3/2022: Trockener Steg
Position: 45°58.28'N, 7°43.32'E
On the way back down, we spent some time at Trockener Steg. It's mostly a winter locale, and is pretty quiet in the summer. And since we hadn't gotten enough good Matterhorn views :-), we took some more pictures while we were there.
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7/3/2022: Mountain Goat
Position: 45°58.29'N, 7°43.30'E
One of several mountain goats around the base of the Trockener Steg station.
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7/3/2022: Hublot
Position: 45°59.24'N, 7°42.65'E
Large wall clock at Furgg station by Swiss luxury watch maker Hublot.
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7/3/2022: To Furi
Position: 45°59.57'N, 7°42.64'E
Descending to Furi from Schwarzsee on the Matterhorn Express with Zermatt visible in the distance.
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7/3/2022: Aroleid
Position: 46°0.12'N, 7°43.75'E
A late lunch on the terrace at Michelin Bib Gourmand-ranked Restaurant Aroleid in Furi. The restaurant is in a remodeled historic chalet. The roofs on many of the surrounding buildings, such as the one directly beyond James, are covered with handmade slate tiles.
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7/3/2022: Furi Hangebrucke
Position: 45°59.80'N, 7°43.66'E
The 328-ft (100-m) Furi Hangebrucke (suspension bridge) is strung 295 ft (90m) above the spectacular Gorner Gorge.
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7/3/2022: Air Zermatt
Position: 46°1.74'N, 7°45.23'E
From Furi, we hoofed it down to Air Zermatt for a helicoptor tour of the area.
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7/3/2022: Takeoff
Position: 46°3.34'N, 7°45.88'E
Two happy Air Zermatt passengers shortly after takeoff.
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7/3/2022: Schaligletscher
Position: 46°5.25'N, 7°43.25'E
The Schaligletscher (Schali Glacier) near 14,783-ft (4,506 m) Weisshorn. Routes to ascend Weisshorn typically cross the base of this glacier.
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7/3/2022: Hikers
Position: 46°4.19'N, 7°42.45'E
Alpine hikers, at lower right, crossing a glacier (click image for a larger view).
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7/3/2022: Rothorn Hut
Position: 46°2.64'N, 7°41.89'E
The 68-bed Rothorn Hut, at altitude 10,492 ft (3,198 m) was built in 1948 and is the starting point for a number of ascents in the area.
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7/3/2022: Ober Gabelhorn
Position: 46°2.56'N, 7°39.97'E
The steep and icy north face of 13,330 ft (4,063 m) Ober Gabelhorn.
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7/3/2022: Hornli Hut
Position: 46°0.33'N, 7°40.04'E
The Hornli Hut at altitude 10,695-ft (3,260m) at the foot of the Matterhorn is the staring point of ascents to the summit. This is the one of the two sets of lights we could see from our room in Zermatt. Since the Swiss Alpine Club built their first hut here in 1880 with 17 beds, the structure has been rebuilt and expanded several times. The current building was inaugurated in 2015, on the 150th anniversary of the first Matterhorn ascent.
The newest hut has only 130 beds, compared to the 170 of its predecessor, to reduce overcrowding on several of the summit routes. About 3,000 reach the summit annually, and up to 150 might attempt on a good summer day (this picture shows how busy it can get at the summit). By reducing the number of beds and eliminating camping outside the hut, the Swiss hope to reduce the number of climbers by up to 30%. |
7/3/2022: Climbers
Position: 45°59.70'N, 7°40.70'E
Climbers descending along the north flank of the Matterhorn.
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7/3/2022: Climbers and Hut
Position: 45°59.70'N, 7°40.70'E
The climbers in the previous picture are circled at bottom, and the Solvay Hut is circled above them. At 13,133 ft (4,003m), it is Swiss Alpine Club's highest hut and is for emergency use only (click image for a larger view).
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7/3/2022: Matterhorn Summit
Position: 45°58.75'N, 7°38.46'E
Even with the top of the Matterhorn at 15,012 ft (4,577 m).
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7/3/2022: Cross
Position: 45°58.64'N, 7°38.78'E
A metal cross at the summit of the Matterhorn is a memorial to the estimated 500 people who have died attempting the summit, including members of the first successful ascent team. Four of the seven-member team fell to their deaths on the descent in 1865.
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7/3/2022: Klein Matterhorn from Air
Position: 45°55.84'N, 7°42.28'E
A view to the Klien Matterhorn peak and the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise station from the air.
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7/3/2022: Schwaerzegletscher
Position: 45°55.71'N, 7°45.23'E
We believe this is the Schwaerzegletscher, east of Breithorn.
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7/3/2022: Helicopter View
Position: 45°55.94'N, 7°52.08'E
Having a fabulous time high above the Alps.
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7/3/2022: Gornergletscher from Air
Position: 45°56.54'N, 7°49.02'E
View to the Gornergletscher (Gorner Glacier) that we photographed earlier today from Gornergrat.
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7/3/2022: Monte Rosa Hut from Air
Position: 45°56.54'N, 7°49.02'E
An aerial view to the Monte Rosa Hut we saw from Gornergrat this morning.
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7/3/2022: Gornergletscher and Matterhorn
Position: 45°56.51'N, 7°50.85'E
The Gornergletscher trailing off the northwest, with the partially cloud-covered Matterhorn visible in distance.
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7/3/2022: Climbers on Gornergletscher
Position: 45°56.83'N, 7°48.25'E
Climbers crossing Gornergletscher (click image for a larger view).
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7/3/2022: Mattmark Dam
Position: 46°2.13'N, 7°56.92'E
The Mattmark Dam was completed in 1967 to control flooding due to glacial melt.
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7/3/2022: Britannia Hut
Position: 46°3.61'N, 7°56.16'E
The Britannia Hut was originally built in 1912 with funds contributed from British climbers and was extensively renovated in 1997.
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7/3/2022: Mittelallalin
Position: 46°3.71'N, 7°54.26'E
The Mittelallalin summit, at 11,339 ft (3,456 m), is home to the world's highest revolving restaurant. The summit can be reached via cableway.
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7/3/2022: Mischabel Hut
Position: 46°6.59'N, 7°53.46'E
The Mischabel Hut opened in 1903 and is used to ascend Lenzspitze, the Nadelhorn and the Hohberghorn.
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7/3/2022: Saas-Fee
Position: 46°3.42'N, 7°53.65'E
The village of Saas-Fe lies at en elevation of 5,900 ft (1,800 m). Surrounded by 13 peaks over 13,123 ft (4,000 m), it is a popular winter skiing destination.
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7/3/2022: Gros Bigerhorn
Position: 46°7.74'N, 7°53.27'E
The sheer cliff face along the east side of Gros Bigerhorn.
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7/3/2022: Dom Hut
Position: 46°9.10'N, 7°49.10'E
The 75-bed Dom Hut opened in 1890 and was extended and renovated several times, most recently in 2013.
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7/3/2022: Kinhutte
Position: 46°5.38'N, 7°48.16'E
Kinhutte is a privately-owned shelter at altitude 8,477ft (2,584m) that provides meals and accommodation.
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7/3/2022: Aerospatiale AS-350 B3
Position: 46°2.21'N, 7°45.64'E
We had an absolutely amazing time in the Air Zermatt helicopter tour, on board their Aerospatiale AS-350 B3. We booked it somewhat last-minute on a whim and are really glad to have done it. The scenery was amazing and we really enjoyed seeing the varied mountain huts and shelters. And, of course, being nose-to-nose with the Matterhorn was exceptional.
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7/3/2022: Wheeling by Hand
Position: 46°1.75'N, 7°45.18'E
We were on the last flight of the day, so the crew stowed the helicopters for the night. The craft are so light they can be wheeled into the hangar by hand.
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7/3/2022: Spycher
Position: 46°1.18'N, 7°44.97'E
We broke our "it must have a Matterhorn view" rule for dinner at highly-rated Restaurant Spycher. And we're glad we did. The meal was excellent and we enjoyed our conversation with the owner.
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7/3/2022: Chalet Hotel Schonegg
Position: 46°1.30'N, 7°45.14'E
Getting another Matterhorn fix on the terrace of our Zermatt hotel, the Chalet Hotel Schonegg.
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7/4/2022: Matterhorn
Position: 46°1.30'N, 7°45.14'E
An early-morning Matterhorn view before we depart Zermatt for St. Moritz.
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7/4/2022: Office
Position: 46°1.30'N, 7°45.14'E
James getting a little work done, with the Matterhorn visible in the backgroun, in our room at the Petit Chalet Schonegg.
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7/4/2022: Glacier Express
Position: 46°1.50'N, 7°44.92'E
On board the Glacier Express, one of the two most scenic train rides in Switzerland (the other is the Bernina Express, that we'll be taking tomorrow). The Glacier Express is considered an express train because it omits many stops along the way. The focus is not on speed, but on enjoying the scenery, including 91 tunnels and 291 bridges. Billed as the "slowest express train in the world," the 181-mile (291 km) journey across the country between the two ski resort towns of Zermatt and St. Moritz takes about 7.5 hours at an average speed of 24 mph (38 kph).
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7/4/2022: Tummigbach Waterfall
Position: 46°8.62'N, 7°47.57'E
The Tummigbach Waterfall spilling down from the mountains south of St. Niklaus.
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7/4/2022: Illas and Merjen Bridges
Position: 46°13.69'N, 7°51.67'E
The Illas (foreground) and Merjen bridges straddling the deep gorge of the river Mattervispa. The first bridge across the gorge, the Kinn Bridge, was completed in the 16th century and still stands about a half-mile (1 km) away. The Merjen Bridge was completed in 1930 to support modern vehicle traffic that was too wide for the Kinn Bridge. This new bridge became too weak for heavy traffic and the Illas Bridge was completed in 1959.
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7/4/2022: Rack Rail
Position: 46°13.81'N, 7°52.06'E
In many steeper sections of the route, such as this one through the Mattertal Valley, the train engages a cogwheel into a toothed rack rail for additional traction.
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7/4/2022: Starter Plate
Position: 46°19.14'N, 7°59.31'E
The booked a seat in the Glacier Express Excellent Class, mostly because all the seats are window seats. The package includes a seven-course meal served over the duration of the trip. Here we are having our first course, a starter plate with a tartar mini-tart, cheese tart and mixed spiced nuts.
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7/4/2022: Seven Degrees
Position: 46°22.32'N, 8°5.09'E
The train is at an angle of seven degrees as we climb up through the Goms Valley, the uppermost valley along the Rhone River.
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7/4/2022: Grengiols
Position: 46°22.63'N, 8°5.75'E
Looking back to Grengiols and down to the tracks our train was just on. We've just passed through a 360° loop tunnel to bring us above the town. We've been traveling alongside the Rhone River, just out of sight on the right.
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7/4/2022: Goms Bridge
Position: 46°24.49'N, 8°8.38'E
The 918-ft (280 m) Goms Bridge, completed in 2015, crosses the Lama Gorge 301 ft (92 m) above the Rhone River.
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7/4/2022: Obergoms
Position: 46°31.98'N, 8°20.66'E
At the town of Obergons, about to enter the Furka Base Tunnel. The Rhone River rises from the nearby Rhone Glacier, and we'll be leaving the path of the river as we enter the tunnel.
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7/4/2022: Furka Base Tunnel
Position: 46°33.70'N, 8°24.97'E
A second course of smoked trout as we pass through the Furka Base Tunnel. Completed in 1982, the 9.6 mile (15.4 km) tunnel provides year-round connection across the Furka Pass between the cantons of Valais and Uri.
Before this tunnel was completed, train traffic passed through the Furka Summit Tunnel, built in 1926. This tunnel had to be closed between October and June each year due to the risk of heavy snowfall, including dismantling and later re-installing the overhead electrical lines. Even for a June opening, heavy machinery was required to clear the snow from line. And in 1963, an avalanche swept away a team working on snow removal, with the loss of several lives. After this tragedy, construction of the Furka Base Tunnel was proposed. |
7/4/2022: Zumdorf
Position: 46°36.70'N, 8°32.30'E
Zumdorf is the smallest official village in Switzerland, with only a single family of three people living there. The village has a small church and even a restaurant. In 1851, the village had 50 residents when a huge avalanche buried it.
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7/4/2022: Pea Mint Soup
Position: 46°36.95'N, 8°33.05'E
A third course of pea mint soup as we pass through the Urseren Valley alongside the Reuss River. The 102-mile (64 km) Reuss is the fourth longest river in Switzerland, after the Rhine, Aare and Rhone.
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7/4/2022: Radisson Blu
Position: 46°37.91'N, 8°35.27'E
The striking wooden building of the Radisson Blu Hotel Reussen in Andermatt is designed in a modern interpretation of a Swiss chalet.
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7/4/2022: Zaug Snow Plow
Position: 46°38.22'N, 8°35.60'E
A snow plow made by Swiss company Zaug at the train station in Andermatt.
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7/4/2022: Andermatt
Position: 46°38.16'N, 8°36.10'E
Looking back down to Andermatt and the Urseren Valley, with the rear of our train visible at right, as we ascend through a series of switchbacks at the western end of the Oberalp Pass. Andermatt is a historical crossroads in Switzerland, situated at the confluence of three Alpine passes, the Furka Pass that we just crossed, the Oberalp that we are on now, and the St. Gotthard Pass to the south. And to the north, the Reuss River flows through the steeply descending Schollenen Gorge eventually to Lake Lucerne.
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7/4/2022: Urseren Valley
Position: 46°38.12'N, 8°36.34'E
View west through the Urseren Valley, with Andermatt in the foreground, as we continue to ascend the switchbacks of the Oberalp Pass.
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7/4/2022: Oberalpreuss
Position: 46°38.34'N, 8°36.70'E
The lush Oberalpreuss river valley to our east.
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7/4/2022: Goats
Position: 46°38.37'N, 8°36.78'E
Goats grazing alongside the train tracks.
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7/4/2022: Train
Position: 46°38.53'N, 8°36.37'E
Exiting the final switcback above Andermatt. We've just ascended 1,200 ft (365 m) over a distance of only 2,000 ft (609 m).
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7/4/2022: Gutsch Express
Position: 46°38.37'N, 8°36.78'E
The Gutsch Express gondola, opened in 2017, operates year-round from Andermatt up the Natschen mountain to Gutsch. The lift ascends from 4,715 ft (1,437 m) to 7,733 ft (2,357 m) in 8 minutes.
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7/4/2022: Oberalpstrasse
Position: 46°38.50'N, 8°36.36'E
The switchbacks of the Oberalpstrasse road at the west end of Oberalp Pass, with the Urseren Valley in the distance. The train tracks, not visible, follow roughly the same route.
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7/4/2022: Sustenhorn
Position: 46°38.54'N, 8°36.61'E
The glaciated summit of 11,490-ft (3,502-m) Sustenhorn to our northwest. Although the train is called the Glacier Express, this is one of the few glaciers actually visible en route.
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7/4/2022: Bee Hives
Position: 46°38.54'N, 8°36.83'E
Bee hives in near the train station at Natschen.
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7/4/2022: Avalanche Fences
Position: 46°39.12'N, 8°38.07'E
Steep slopes throughout Switzerland are covered with these avalanche fences. The fences are designed to stabilize the snow at avalanche initiation zones and prevent the triggering of an avalanche.
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7/4/2022: Oberalpsee
Position: 46°39.54'N, 8°39.24'E
The alpine lake Oberalpsee at altitude 6,673 ft (2,034 m), the highest point on the Oberalp Pass and on the Glacier Express line between Zermatt and St Moritz. The Rhine River rises at nearby Lake Tuma as the Vorderrhein and descends eastward to Chur. There it turns northwest and eventually reaches Basel, Switzerland, where we embarked on our Rhine River cruise in December of 2019.
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7/4/2022: Rheinquelle Lighthouse
Position: 46°39.51'N, 8°39.15'E
The Rheinquelle lighthouse at Lake Oberalpsee on the Oberalp Pass was built in 2015 as part of a tourist marketing campaign to raise awareness of and attract visitors to the area. The light is a scale model of the former Hoek van Holland ("Hook of Holland") lighthouse near Rotterdam that marked the mouth of the Rhine where it flowed into the North Sea. Rheinquelle is French for "source of the Rhine" and the idea behind the campaign was to mark the source of the Rhine with this lighthouse, and then float a ship up from the mouth of the Rhine to Basel, where it would be disassembled, transported here by road, and reassembled. So far, only the lighthouse has been built. Kind of sounds like a government project doesn't it? :-)
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7/4/2022: Curnera Dam
Position: 46°39.34'N, 8°40.65'E
The Curnera hydroelectric dam, completed in 1966, is 501-ft (153m) high with a crest length of 1,148 ft (350 m). It creates the Lai da Curnera reservoir, into which all surrounding rivers are diverted.
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7/4/2022: Beef Tenderloin
Position: 46°39.61'N, 8°42.98'E
A fourth course of Beef Tenderloin as we pass through the Surselva Valley alongside the Vorderrhein (Anterior Rhine).
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7/4/2022: Glacier Express to Zermatt
Position: 46°41.47'N, 8°49.86'E
We're about halfway through our journey now, and are passing the Glacier Express train that left this morning from St. Moritz for Zermatt. Only one Glacier Express train runs per day in each direction. But faster intercity trains run the route multiples times a day.
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7/4/2022: Val Cuoz Viaduct
Position: 46°41.48'N, 8°50.11'E
The back of our train passing over the 1926 Val Cuoz Viaduct near Desintes.
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7/4/2022: Medel
Position: 46°41.48'N, 8°50.11'E
Looking south to the village of Medel, with the Val Medal valley beyond. The Rein da Medel, the longest headwater of the Rhine, flows through this valley and joins with the Vorderrhein.
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7/4/2022: Disentis Abbey
Position: 46°42.12'N, 8°51.28'E
Historic Disentis Abbey was founded in the 7th century. Marauding Avars (an alliance of several groups of Eurasian nomads that controlled much of Central and Eastern Europe from the late 6th to the early 9th century) destroyed the original abbey, which was rebuilt in the 8th century and hosted Charlemagne in 800. Napoleon's army burned and plundered the abbey in the 18th century and it was rebuilt again in 1880. Today the abbey remains a religious institute and the community there runs a highly-respected secondary school.
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7/4/2022: Cheese Plate
Position: 46°43.89'N, 8°57.20'E
A cheese plate for our fifth course as we continue through the Surselva Valley alongside the Vorderrhein (Anterior Rhine).
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7/4/2022: Dethleffs Caravan
Position: 46°43.94'N, 8°57.95'E
A well-equipped Dethleffs caravan parked alongside the train tracks in Surrien. Whip and ski pole manufacturer Arist Dethleffs invented the caravan in Germany in 1931 to allow his family to accompany him on business trips. He subsequently began building caravans to order and demand was so high that by 1958 the company ceased the other business to focus solely on caravan production.
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7/4/2022: Martinskirche
Position: 46°44.40'N, 8°58.60'E
The foundation stones for the Martinskirche (Parish Church of St. Martin) in Trun were laid in 1658.
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7/4/2022: Rhine Gorge
Position: 46°47.70'N, 9°17.30'E
Passing through the Rhine Gorge in the debris field of the Flims Rockslide, the largest known landslide in the alps and the biggest still-visible slide in the world. The slide occurred around 10,000 years ago, setting about 2.9 cu mi (12 km3) of rock in motion and leaving debris piled as high as 2,000 ft (600 m).
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7/4/2022: Isla Bella Bridge
Position: 46°48.38'N, 9°18.90'E
Crossing the Vorderrhein on the Isla Bella Bridge in the Rhine Gorge. The canyon also is known by its German name, Rheinschlucht, and as the Ruinaulta Canyon and the Grand Canyon of Switzerland.
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7/4/2022: Farsch Bridge
Position: 46°49.39'N, 9°23.42'E
Looking east along the Vorderrhein as we exit the Rhine Gorge on the Farsch Bridge.
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7/4/2022: Chur
Position: 46°51.26'N, 9°31.75'E
The train makes a brief stop in Chur, then turns around and heads back out on the same path before turning south towards St. Moritz. Here in Chur, the Rhine bends northwards en route to Basel.
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7/4/2022: Chocolate Cake
Position: 46°47.22'N, 9°24.34'E
A sixth course of chocolate cake as we pass alongside the Hinterrhein through the Domleschg valley.
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7/4/2022: Ortenstein Castle
Position: 46°45.47'N, 9°25.45'E
Ortenstein Castle, built around 1250, is one of several castles and ruins in the Domleschg valley, indicating the importance of trade in the area.
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7/4/2022: Afternoon Tea
Position: 46°41.70'N, 9°28.61'E
A seventh and final course, afternoon tea, as we pass through one of the 91 tunnels on the Glacier Express route.
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7/4/2022: Solis Bridge
Position: 46°40.86'N, 9°31.52'E
The Solis Bridge across the Albula River, viewed as our train crosses on the Solis Viaduct. The Solis Bridge was built in 1868 and still is in use, while the Solis Viaduct was completed in 1903.
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7/4/2022: Albula/Alvra
Position: 46°39.84'N, 9°34.54'E
Looking past the municipality of Albula/Alvra with the Albula Alps visible beyond.
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7/4/2022: Schmittentobel Viaduct
Position: 46°40.06'N, 9°38.04'E
Passing over the Schmittentobel Viaduct with the famous Landwasser Viaduct visible beyond a short tunnel. The Schmittentobel Viaduct, completed in 1902, is 115 ft (35 m) high, 449 ft (137 m) long and has seven 49-ft (15m) spans.
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7/4/2022: Landwasser Viaduct
Position: 46°40.86'N, 9°40.52'E
Heading into the Landwasser Tunnel over the Landwasser Viaduct, the most famous feature on the Glacier Express route. The striking curved viaduct stands 213 ft (65 m) above the Landwasser River and is 466 ft (142 m) long with six spans. It was renovated in 2009 for the first time since its initial completion in 1902.
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7/4/2022: Albula River Valley
Position: 46°40.85'N, 9°40.58'E
A road hugging the cliff through the Albula River valley.
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7/4/2022: Spirals and Loops
Position: 46°38.27'N, 9°44.14'E
In just 3.75 miles (6 km) as the crow flies, the train ascends 1,368 ft (416 m) from Preda to Bergun, a 14% grade. This is accomplished through a complex 7.5-mile (12km) series of four spiral and loop tunnels and six viaducts that we're about to enter. An excellent diagram of the most complex portion of this system is at Swiss Spiral Tunnels Cutaway. Built in 1902, the tunnels and viaducts are an impressive and beautiful engineering feat.
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7/4/2022: Bergun Loop
Position: 46°37.21'N, 9°45.14'E
Passing through the first loop at Bergun.
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7/4/2022: Rugnus Tunnel
Position: 46°35.77'N, 9°45.49'E
We've just exited the spiral Rugnus Tunnel and are crossing the road bridge above the Albula River. We'll re-cross the river on the viaduct visible at upper left and enter the Zuondra and Toua spiral tunnels.
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7/4/2022: Albula Viaduct
Position: 46°35.74'N, 9°45.66'E
On the Ablula Viaduct just after exiting the spiral Zuondra Tunnel. The tracks below are the ones we were just on to enter the tunnel. If our train was long enough, the end would be entering the tunnel as we exited, and we'd pass over it.
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7/4/2022: Rugnux Tunnel
Position: 46°36.01'N, 9°45.29'E
Passing through the Rugnux Tunnel, the final in the series of loops and spirals between Preda and Bergun. We're almost in St. Moritz now.
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7/4/2022: Albula Tunnel
Position: 46°34.33'N, 9°49.15'E
Much of the rest of the journey to St. Moritz will be in the 3.6-mile (5.9km) Albula Tunnel. Completed in 1903, it is one of the highest tunnels in the Swiss Alps at altitude 5,970 ft (1,820 m). Construction is underway for a replacement tunnel, pictured, that is expected to open in 2022.
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7/4/2022: St. Moritz
Position: 46°29.85'N, 9°50.27'E
Overlooking St. Moritz from the balcony of our hotel room at the Hotel Steffani. A bit of Lake St. Moritz is visible in the distance beneath 10,246 ft (3,123 m ) Piz Rosatsch.
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7/4/2022: Sculpture Garden
Position: 46°29.84'N, 9°50.25'E
We loved this rooftop sculpture garden on a building near the Hotel Steffani.
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7/4/2022: La Stalla
Position: 46°29.94'N, 9°50.41'E
An excellent meal over a bottle of Barola at La Stalla in St. Moritz.
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7/4/2022: Chesa Futura
Position: 46°29.86'N, 9°50.34'E
Chesa Futura ("House of the Future") by renowned architect Lord Norman Foster combines futuristic design with traditional building materials. The building contains ten exclusive apartments overlooking St. Moritz. It looks pretty wild from here, but even more so on the architect firm's web site.
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7/4/2022: Hotel Steffani
Position: 46°29.83'N, 9°50.27'E
Street view to the Hotel Steffani where we are staying in St. Moritz.
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7/4/2022: Skeleton Racing
Position: 46°29.85'N, 9°50.26'E
A photograph in the bar of the Hotel Steffani of a skeleton racer at the start of a race. In this sport, competitors make a running start and then fly head-first and face down along the track. St. Moritz is home of the Cresta Run, built in 1884, one of the few tobogganing courses in the world dedicated solely to skeleton racing.
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7/4/2022: Via Traunter Plazzas
Position: 46°29.85'N, 9°50.27'E
Evening view across the Via Traunter Plazzas in St. Moritz from our room at the Hotel Steffani.
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7/4/2022: Dusk
Position: 46°29.84'N, 9°50.25'E
Enjoying a drink on the balcony of our room at the Hotel Steffani after an excellent, but big, day traveling from Zermatt to St. Moritz on the Glacier Express. We very much enjoyed the ride. The scenery was spectacular and the many complex tunnels and viaducts were amazing to both see and travel on.
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7/5/2022: Rabbits
Position: 46°29.84'N, 9°50.25'E
The mascot for the 1928 winter Olympics held in St. Moritz was a rabbit, and became the official trademark of the Hotel Steffani. The rabbit theme abounds in the hotel, including this desktop lamp depicting rabbits lending a helping hand. We've seen similar statues along the Gota Canal in Sweden and in St. Petersburg, Russia, but have never been able to find a connection between them or the origin of the statues.
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7/5/2022: Luxury Goods
Position: 46°29.85'N, 9°50.43'E
The resort town of St. Moritz has long attracted the rich and famous for all over the world, with many luxury stores catering to those visitors.
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7/5/2022: Escalator
Position: 46°29.86'N, 9°50.47'E
Riding the triple-level escalator, the longest in Switzerland, down to Lake St. Moritz and the train station.
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7/5/2022: Bernina Express
Position: 46°29.88'N, 9°50.81'E
Today we'll be taking the Bernina Express, a scenic train ride between Chur and Tirano, Italy. The route overlaps with the Glacier Express between Chur and St. Moritz so we'll just board the train here.
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7/5/2022: Altitude Profile
Position: 46°29.88'N, 9°50.80'E
An altitude profile of the Bernina Express route between Chur and Tirano, Italy. From St. Moritz at altitude 5,820 ft (1,774m) we'll ascend the Ospizio Bernina at 7,391 ft (2,253m) and then down to Tirano in Italy at 1,407 ft (429m). From there the route goes by bus back to Switzerland at Lugano at altitude 885ft (270m). The railway reaches an altitude of 7,391 ft (2,253 m) and is the highest railway crossing in Europe and the third-highest railway in Switzerland. To manage the incredibly steep descent from Alp Grum to Tirano, the train passes through a series of switchbacks and spiral tunnels.
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7/5/2022: Reformierte Kirche San Gian
Position: 46°30.61'N, 9°52.17'E
The ruins of Reformierte Kirche San Gian, originally built in 1478. The church initially had a large wooden spire that was struck by lightning in 1682 and not restored.
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7/5/2022: Morteratsch Glacier
Position: 46°27.33'N, 9°56.70'E
View to the Morteratsch Glacier, the largest in the Bernina Range, from altitude 6,673 ft (2,034 m) as we ascend the Bernina Pass.
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7/5/2022: Bernina Express Plate
Position: 46°26.51'N, 9°58.92'E
We had the tasty Bernina Express Plate for lunch, with pear bread and local sausage and cheese. And it comes with a souvenir beech plate and pocket knife.
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7/5/2022: Lago Bianco
Position: 46°24.92'N, 10°0.71'E
The view south across Lago Bianco at altitude 7,329 ft (2,233 m). We're near the summit of the 7,391 ft (2,253m) Bernina Pass and Lago Bianco drains to the south whereas the smaller adjacent Lej Nair drains to the north.
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7/5/2022: Alp Grum Station
Position: 46°22.43'N, 10°1.93'E
The Bernina Express train makes one brief stop en route from St. Moritz to Tirano, at 6,860 ft (2,091 m) Alp Grum Station on the other side of Bernina Pass. The station and hotel here were built in 1923. From here, the train descends at an average 7° grade into the valley below through a series of switchbacks and spiral tunnels. The next station is 1,300 ft (400m) below and just under a mile (1.5km) away in a straight line, but the train will travel 3.7 miles (6 km) to reach it.
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7/5/2022: Palu Glacier
Position: 46°22.43'N, 10°1.93'E
The reason for the brief stop at Alp Grum is for the fabulous views to the Palu Glacier
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7/5/2022: Val Poschiavo
Position: 46°20.69'N, 10°2.71'E
View to the Val Poschiavo valley from altitude 5,244 ft (1,599 m). We're about to descend into the valley along a series of four switchbacks.
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7/5/2022: Mountain Home
Position: 46°20.64'N, 10°2.77'E
One of several mountain homes perched on the steep grade along the switchbacks. The house will have an excellent view to the Val Poschiavo below.
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7/5/2022: Le Prese
Position: 46°17.71'N, 10°4.65'E
The train passes through the town of Le Prese on the main road, effectively becoming a street car. The buildings are so close we could almost touch them.
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7/5/2022: Lago di Poschiavo
Position: 46°16.67'N, 10°5.31'E
Passing along emerald-colored Lago di Poschiavo that we could see from way above as we looked down into the Val Poschiavo.
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7/5/2022: Brusio Spiral Viaduct
Position: 46°15.36'N, 10°7.71'E
One of the many highlights of the Bernina Express route is passing over the 1908 Brusio Spiral Viaduct. This is the view to the viaduct from above to the tracks we are about to travel. We'll approach from the left over the viaduct and loop down underneath it.
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7/5/2022: Exiting Spiral
Position: 46°15.27'N, 10°7.71'E
Looking back to where we've just come from as the tail of our train passes underneath the Brusio Spiral Viaduct. The spiral allows the train to achieve a maximum 7° grade to support heavy freight trains as well as passengers.
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7/5/2022: Waterfall
Position: 46°15.01'N, 10°7.78'E
One of many waterfalls along the steep slopes above the Val Poschiavo.
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7/5/2022: Carrozza Panoramica
Position: 46°12.95'N, 10°9.98'E
Carrozza Panoramica cars at the station in Tirano, Italy. In July and August, open-air carriages are carried along the run between Poschiavo and St. Moritz.
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7/5/2022: Piazza del Stazioni
Position: 46°12.94'N, 10°10.01'E
The Piazza del Stazioni outside the train station in Tirona, Italy. Even after all our time spent in Europe, entering another country without any passport checks (or anything else) still feels very strange.
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7/5/2022: Collegiata di San Martino
Position: 46°12.94'N, 10°10.48'E
The beautiful interior of the Collegiata di San Martino catholic church in Tirano, built in the mid-seventeenth century
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7/5/2022: Archway
Position: 46°12.93'N, 10°10.47'E
Looking through a low archway to pastel-colored buildings along a cobblestone street in Tirano.
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7/5/2022: Palazzo Salis
Position: 46°12.98'N, 10°10.50'E
The Palazzo Salis was built in the second half of the 17th century for an important noble family and now is a public museum.
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7/5/2022: Fresco
Position: 46°13.02'N, 10°10.50'E
Many of the rooms in the Palazzo Salis are ornately decorated with impressive frescoes and stucco.
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7/5/2022: Italian Garden
Position: 46°13.01'N, 10°10.52'E
The carefully-tended Italian Garden behind the Palazzo Salis with box hedges surrounding roses and a fountain in the middle. This style of garden is rare in the alpine climate of northern Italy.
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7/5/2022: Old and New
Position: 46°13.04'N, 10°10.52'E
An old building, renovated at right in the style of the original.
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7/5/2022: Porta Bormina
Position: 46°13.04'N, 10°10.60'E
Looking out Porta Bormina, one of three 15th-century city gates still standing in Tirano.
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7/5/2022: Ponte Vecchio
Position: 46°12.98'N, 10°10.38'E
Looking along the river Adda from the Ponte Vecchio.
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7/5/2022: La Gatta
Position: 46°10.70'N, 10°6.59'E
The La Gatta winery in a recently restored Dominican monastery, viewed as we drive from Tirano to Lugano. Nebbiolo, one of our favorite grapes, is the dominant varietal grown.
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7/5/2022: Grumello Castle
Position: 46°10.18'N, 9°54.54'E
The ruins of Grumello Castle, built in the 13th century, are open to the public.
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7/5/2022: MyDayTrip.com
Position: 46°9.03'N, 9°19.59'E
The Bernina Express continues from Tirano to Lugano by bus, but no seats together were available. We looked for alternatives and found mydaytrip.com, who specialize in sightseeing transfers between cities. This is our driver Giordano, who picked us up at the train station in Tirano.
mydaytrip.com worked out wonderfully. In addition to being more comfortable than being packed onto a bus, we could travel at our own schedule and had the flexibility to make stops along the way. Here we are making a brief stop in Domaso to view Lake Como. |
7/5/2022: Domaso
Position: 46°9.01'N, 9°19.61'E
Idyllic Domaso on the shores of Lake Como.
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7/5/2022: Narrow
Position: 46°8.94'N, 9°18.73'E
Some of the streets along the way are really narrow.
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7/5/2022: Villa
Position: 46°1.30'N, 9°14.50'E
Lake Como is lined with elaborate estates. Actor George Clooney is one of many wealthy home-owners here.
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7/5/2022: Promenade
Position: 46°1.22'N, 9°14.48'E
Lush gardens along the lakeside promenade in Mennagio.
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7/5/2022: Cafe del Press
Position: 46°1.19'N, 9°14.36'E
Enjoying the view to Lake Como from the terrace at Cafe del Press in Mennagio.
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7/5/2022: Via Calvi
Position: 46°1.19'N, 9°14.36'E
Restaurants and shops line Via Calvi, with the tower of 17th-century St. Stephen's Church visible in the distance.
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7/5/2022: Bellagio
Position: 46°1.19'N, 9°14.36'E
To some US visitors Bellagio might be better known as the name of a Las Vegas casino. But the real Bellagio is along the shore of Lake Como across from Mennagio and it's really special.
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7/5/2022: Tunnel
Position: 46°1.10'N, 9°1.46'E
Passing through a graceful windowed tunnel as we approach the Swiss border.
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7/5/2022: Entering Switzerland
Position: 46°0.92'N, 9°1.19'E
Returning back to Switzerland was a non-event. We were just waved through the border crossing as usual.
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7/5/2022: Wine Menu
Position: 46°0.30'N, 8°56.95'E
Giordano dropped us off at our hotel in Lugano and we headed out for dinner after checking in. Here we are trying to pick a wine at Osteria Trani. Their wine list was by far the largest, and heaviest, we've ever seen.
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7/5/2022: Osteria Trani
Position: 46°0.31'N, 8°56.96'E
The fabulous setting outside on the steps at Osteria Trani, with 3,035-ft (925 m) Monte Bre visible in the background. We had an excellent meal and just loved the table.
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7/5/2022: Life Will Win
Position: 46°0.22'N, 8°57.10'E
The "Life Will Win" tour, a charity event for the benefit of Ukraine, performing in Lugano. The event name derives from a quote made by Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy in a speech to the European Parliament: "Life will win over death, and light will win over darkness."
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7/5/2022: LUGANODANTE
Position: 46°0.27'N, 8°56.99'E
A drink on the terrace of our hotel, LUGANODANTE (we're not sure why the name is spelled all caps).
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7/5/2022: Monte Bre
Position: 46°0.25'N, 8°56.98'E
The evening view northeast across Lugano from our hotel room, with 3,035-ft (925 m) Monte Bre rising in the distance.
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7/6/2022: Sunrise
Position: 46°0.25'N, 8°56.98'E
A Lugano sunrise from our hotel room window. The mountains visible are, from left to right, 4,974-ft (1,516 m) Monte Boglia and 3,035-ft (925 m) Monte Bre in Switzerland, 4,311-ft (1,313 m) Sighignola in Italy, and back in Switzerland, 2,992-ft (911 m) Monte San Salvatore at far right. We'll be heading up Monte San Salvatore today.
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7/6/2022: Mion
Position: 46°0.21'N, 8°57.01'E
Colorful fresh produce display outside the Mion grocery store in Lugano.
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7/6/2022: Credit Suisse
Position: 46°0.22'N, 8°57.06'E
The Credit Suisse office building on Lugano's historic main square, Piazza della Riforma. Lugano is the third-most important banking center in Switzerland.
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7/6/2022: Glutton
Position: 46°0.10'N, 8°57.01'E
We got a giggle out of the name of this street-cleaning machine: Glutton.
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7/6/2022: Coast Guard
Position: 45°59.90'N, 8°56.93'E
One of two Swiss Coast Guard boats arriving into Lugano. The border between Switzerland and Italy crosses Lake Lugano about 2 miles (3.2 km) to the northeast.
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7/6/2022: Funicular
Position: 45°59.44'N, 8°56.71'E
We'll be riding the funicular, completed in 1888, to the top of Monte San Salvatore.
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7/6/2022: Map
Position: 45°59.42'N, 8°56.72'E
A map on the wall of the funicular station showing the view from Monte San Salvatore. Lugano is on the left and Monte Boglia and Monte Bre are slightly to the right of Monte San Salvatore. The Swiss-Italian border crosses the lake just beyond Gandria in the distance at right (click image for a larger view).
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7/6/2022: On Board
Position: 45°59.42'N, 8°56.71'E
On board the funicular to Monte San Salvatore. The ride is popular and the carriage was quite full by the time we departed.
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7/6/2022: Pazallo
Position: 45°59.00'N, 8°56.76'E
Changing carriages at Pazallo station, halfway to the top of Monte San Salvatore. The railway is 5,466-ft (1,660 m) in length and divided into sections, with the lower having a maximum gradient of 37% and the upper 61%. Each section has a carriage designed to accommodate that maximum.
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7/6/2022: View South
Position: 45°58.60'N, 8°56.74'E
The panoramic view south from the summit of Monte San Salvatore, with the Ponte Diga di Melide bridge across Lake Lugano at left (click image for a larger view).
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7/6/2022: Landing
Position: 45°58.59'N, 8°56.74'E
An airplane landing in Lugano, viewed from the summit of 2,992-ft (911 m) Monte San Salvatore. We rarely see an airplane from above while we're on the ground.
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7/6/2022: Ristorante Vetta San Salvatore
Position: 45°58.59'N, 8°56.74'E
A delicious lunch, with a fabulous view, on the terrace at Ristorante Vetta San Salvatore.
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7/6/2022: View to Lugano
Position: 45°58.62'N, 8°56.83'E
Another great view from 2,992-ft (911 m) Monte San Salvatore, this one looking northeast with Lugano on the left and Lake Lugano on the right.
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7/6/2022: Water Jet
Position: 45°59.53'N, 8°56.79'E
The water jet of Paradiso in Lake Lugano, viewed as we walk back to town from the Monte San Salvatore funicular station.
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7/6/2022: Garbage Cleanup
Position: 45°59.68'N, 8°56.79'E
A paddle-wheeled boat cleaning up garbage in Lake Lugano.
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7/6/2022: SNL
Position: 45°59.70'N, 8°56.79'E
One of the 11 motor boats, owned by the Societa Navigazione del Lago di Lugano (SNL), that ferry passengers across Lake Lugano.
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7/6/2022: Castello Cattaneo
Position: 45°59.71'N, 8°56.80'E
Castello Cattaneo overlooking Lake Lugano, was built at the turn of the 20th century and a decade ago sold for 20 million Swiss francs (about the same in US dollars). The distinctive set of three white buildings behind it is the luxury boutique hotel The View, where rooms start at USD $1,500 per night.
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7/6/2022: Promenade
Position: 45°59.72'N, 8°56.81'E
Walking Lugano's tranquil tree-lined promenade along the shore of Lake Lugano.
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7/6/2022: Rinoceronte
Position: 45°59.89'N, 8°56.90'E
The statue Rinoceronte, created in 1977 by renowned Swiss artist Piero Travaglini.
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7/6/2022: Cyclist
Position: 46°0.32'N, 8°57.01'E
Apparently you can ride a bicycle wearing high heals.
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7/6/2022: Argentino
Position: 46°0.24'N, 8°57.09'E
A delicious meal at Bistrot & Pizza Argentino along Lugano's historic main square, Piazza della Riforma.
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7/6/2022: Piazza della Riforma
Position: 46°0.23'N, 8°57.04'E
We didn't make it very far after dinner, and stopped for a drink at a small cafe overlooking Lugano's historic Piazza della Riforma. The Neoclassic building across the square is the Lugano city hall, built in 1844.
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7/6/2022: Terrazza Cioccaro
Position: 46°0.26'N, 8°56.99'E
A nightcap at the Terrazza Cioccaro across the plaza from our hotel. James is seated to the left of the bicycle (click image for a larger view).
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7/7/2022: Dining Car
Position: 46°11.70'N, 9°1.74'E
Breakfast in the upper level dining car on an early morning train en route from Lugano to Lausanne.
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7/7/2022: PayWave
Position: 46°22.23'N, 8°55.76'E
Using a US credit card in Europe can be a real pain, or not even possible, if a signature is required. But we can instead seamlessly use payWave on our phones with our US credit card.
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7/7/2022: Gotthard Base Tunnel
Position: 46°39.88'N, 8°44.71'E
A 2010 picture of workers in front of the giant drill machine 'Sisi' celebrating after breaking through the final section of the Gotthard Base Tunnel. Completed in 2016, it is the longest railway and deepest traffic tunnel in the world. We're currently in the tunnel and are passing underneath our route on the Glacier Express a few days ago.
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7/7/2022: Lake Lucerne
Position: 46°56.09'N, 8°37.05'E
A brief glimpse to the eastern shores of Lake Lucerne en route from Lugano to Lausanne.
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7/7/2022: Train Delay
Position: 46°0.37'N, 8°56.78'E
The Swiss trains have a reputation for being remarkably on-schedule, and that has been our experience on most of our trip. But today we're experiencing an unusual delay, where the train is over an half-hour late and is actually going to skip a stop in Zug. We were planning to connect in Arth-Goldau to Lausanne via Lucerne, but it's faster for us to just keep going to Zurich and connect from there instead.
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7/7/2022: Army Logistics Center
Position: 47°24.03'N, 8°12.45'E
The huge Army logistics center in Othmarsingen, full of vehicles and trailers of many sizes, is clearly visible on the satellite imagery.
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7/7/2022: Early Lunch
Position: 47°21.32'N, 7°58.34'E
Enjoying an early lunch on the train to Laussanne. The train arrived into Zurich even later than expected and we barely made our connection.
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7/7/2022: Gosgen Nuclear Power Plant
Position: 47°21.10'N, 7°57.69'E
The cooling tower of the Gosgen Nuclear Power Plant in Daniken. Brought online in 1979, the plant has a net electrical power output of 970 MW.
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7/7/2022: Bern
Position: 46°56.99'N, 7°25.93'E
Passing through Bern, the capitol of Switzerland. The city was made the capitol in 1848 to avoid a concentration of power in the larger centers such as Zurich.
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7/7/2022: Lake Lucerne
Position: 46°29.77'N, 6°44.38'E
Our train exited a tunnel just west of Puidoux and Lake Lucerne burst into view. The Swiss-French border runs through a portion of the lake and the mountains visible are in France.
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7/7/2022: Vineyards
Position: 46°29.77'N, 6°44.38'E
Vineyards fill the slopes above Lake Lucerne.
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7/7/2022: Rhodania
Position: 46°30.46'N, 6°37.27'E
After arriving into Lausanne, we dropped off our bags at our hotel and set out for the afternoon. This is the barge Rhodania in the Port Lausanne-Ouchy.
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7/7/2022: Saint-Francois Church
Position: 46°31.20'N, 6°38.00'E
Construction of Saint-Francois Church in Lausanne started in the 14th century.
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7/7/2022: Place du la Palud
Position: 46°31.31'N, 6°38.00'E
Place du la Palud dates to the 9th century as a medieval town square.
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7/7/2022: Fontaine de la Justice
Position: 46°31.31'N, 6°37.99'E
The Fontaine de la Justice statue in Place du la Palud. This is a 1930 copy of the original, that was erected here in 1585 and now is in Historical Museum of Lausanne.
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7/7/2022: L'Horlage de la Palude
Position: 46°31.31'N, 6°38.00'E
L'Horlage de la Palude (clock of Palude) is a talking mechanical clock built for the 1964 Swiss national exhibition. Every hour, the clock comes to life with words, music and several parades of figures to tell the history of the area.
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7/7/2022: Le Comptoir des 3 Places
Position: 46°31.35'N, 6°37.96'E
Enjoying a drink at Le Comptoir Des Trois Places along tree-lined Place de la Riponne.
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7/7/2022: Escaliers du Marche
Position: 46°31.33'N, 6°38.03'E
Taking the historic Escaliers du Marche from Place de la Palud to historic district and the Cathedrale du Notre Dame, visible at top. A staircase has been in existence here since at least the 13th century and the current stairway was completed in 1719.
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7/7/2022: Festival de la Cite
Position: 46°31.37'N, 6°38.04'E
The Festival de la Cite is held annually in Lausanne's historic district. The week-long event combines theater performances with music, dance, circus and installations. Crews and performers were preparing the stage and getting ready for an evening music concert along blocked-off Rue Pierre-Viret.
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7/7/2022: Cathedrale du Notre Dame
Position: 46°31.36'N, 6°38.06'E
The ornately carved exterior of Lausanne's Cathedrale du Notre Dame, constructed during the 12th and 13th centuries. It is one of the finest Gothic cathedrals in Europe and the spiritual capital of French-speaking Switzerland.
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7/7/2022: Chancel
Position: 46°31.37'N, 6°38.13'E
Looking past soaring ceilings to the chancel of the Cathedrale du Notre Dame.
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7/7/2022: Model
Position: 46°31.35'N, 6°38.10'E
A wonderful model of the Cathedrale du Notre Dame inside the cathedral.
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7/7/2022: Belltower View
Position: 46°31.36'N, 6°38.10'E
The sweeping view across Lausanne to Lake Geneva from the balcony high up on the belfry of the Cathedrale du Notre Dame.
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7/7/2022: Bell
Position: 46°31.34'N, 6°38.10'E
A massive bell, hung from huge timbers, at the Cathedrale du Notre Dame. This is one of seven bells across two levels of the belfry.
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7/7/2022: Stalls
Position: 46°31.35'N, 6°38.10'E
Carved oak stalls dating from the 13-century were erected in the nave for the church's consecration (the act of making something sacred) and now are preserved in the belfry.
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7/7/2022: Descending
Position: 46°31.35'N, 6°38.10'E
Heading back down the 224 steps from the top of the belfry back to the inside of the cathedral. These steps have seen a lot of wear over the centuries.
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7/7/2022: Organ Pipes
Position: 46°31.35'N, 6°38.10'E
The 7,369-pipe organ, installed in the Cathedrale du Notre Dame in 2003, is unique in a number of ways. It is the first American-built organ to be installed in a European cathedral, the first to to contain all four of the principal organ styles (classical, French symphony, baroque, German romantique), and the first to have been designed by a designer. Giorgetto Giugiaro, who designs the coachwork (bodies) of many fine Italian cars including some Ferraris and Lamborghinis, designed the body of the organ, at center, to resemble an angel floating on a cloud of light. The organ took 150,000 hours to build at a cost 6 million Swiss francs, and weighs 40 tons.
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7/7/2022: Painted Portal
Position: 46°31.37'N, 6°38.09'E
This former entrance to the Cathedrale du Notre Dame in Lausanne is now protected with high-tech glass. The intricately-carved statues date from the 13th century and initially were colorfully painted.
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7/7/2022: Portable Power
Position: 46°31.38'N, 6°38.03'E
A portable power box to supply the high loads needed for the adjacent Festival de la Cite stage.
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7/7/2022: Eau-de-Vie
Position: 46°31.38'N, 6°37.99'E
The fountain Eau-de-Vie in Place de la Riponne was completed in 1993.
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7/7/2022: Lausanne Metro
Position: 46°31.38'N, 6°37.95'E
At the front of the carriage on the M2 line of the Lausanne Metro to ride back down towards Lake Geneva. The fully-automated rapid-transit line was completed in 2008, replacing a funicular railway that dated from 1877.
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7/7/2022: Olympic Headquarters
Position: 46°30.52'N, 6°37.93'E
The International Olympic Committee (IOC) has been headquartered in Lausanne since relocating from Paris in 1915, and the Swiss city also is home to the Olympic Museum. This is looking down a 100m athletics track towards the museum entrance.
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7/7/2022: High Jump
Position: 46°30.50'N, 6°38.02'E
Jennifer finds it difficult to imagine leaping over that bar, even with pole assistance.
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7/7/2022: Museum Entrance
Position: 46°30.50'N, 6°38.04'E
At the entrance to the Olympic Museum in Lausanne. The museum was founded in 1993 and owns the largest collection of Olympic memorabilia in the world, with over 10,000 items.
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7/7/2022: Torches
Position: 46°30.52'N, 6°38.05'E
A display of the torches from every edition of the Olympic Games since 1936.
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7/7/2022: Lillehammer
Position: 46°30.52'N, 6°38.07'E
Video of the opening ceremony at the 1994 Winter Olympic games in Lillehamer, Norway. We walked to the top of the ski jump pictured on our road trip from Bergen to Sweden.
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7/7/2022: Kerri Strug Loetard
Position: 46°30.51'N, 6°38.07'E
The Olympic Museum has a large collection of athlete's equipment and clothing that we found particularly interesting. This is the leotard worn by US gymnast Kerri Strug in the 1996 Olympic games in Atlanta, who became a national sports hero for her courage. After landing badly on the vault and severely twisting her ankle, Kerri made a second, spectacular vault and secured the gold medal for her team. She collapsed and was taken away by medical staff, and shortly later was famously carried back in by her coach with her leg in plaster.
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7/7/2022: Medals
Position: 46°30.52'N, 6°38.04'E
A display of Olympic Games medals from 1896 to the present day.
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7/7/2022: Sunbathers
Position: 46°30.41'N, 6°37.75'E
As we walked back towards the train station from the Olympic Museum, we passed groups of sunbathers along the shore of Lake Geneva.
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7/7/2022: Le Chateau d'Ouchy
Position: 46°30.41'N, 6°37.61'E
Le Chateau d'Ouchy hotel was initially a medieval castle dating from the 12th century. Much of it burned down and was in ruins when it was rebuilt in the late 1800s as a hotel.
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7/7/2022: Luggage
Position: 46°31.34'N, 6°37.87'E
This suitcase redefines big in the checked luggage department.
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7/7/2022: Dinner
Position: 46°31.34'N, 6°37.88'E
A wonderful meal street-side at Brasserie Saint-Laurent in Lausanne.
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7/7/2022: Desert
Position: 46°31.35'N, 6°37.87'E
We didn't order desert, but the couple that run Brasserie Saint-Laurent brought us a complementary piece of cake with fresh berries to finish our meal. It was delicious.
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7/7/2022: Porridge Radio
Position: 46°31.37'N, 6°38.04'E
Before returning back to our hotel, we spent some time watching the British band Porridge Radio perform at the Lausanne Festival de la Cite. It was a wonderful setting for a festival and we enjoyed the bit we were able to experience.
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7/7/2022: Dawn
Position: 46°30.50'N, 6°37.45'E
Dawn looking across the pleasure craft marina in the Port Lausanne-Ouchy from our room at the Movenpick Hotel Lausanne.
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7/8/2022: Henry-Dunant
Position: 46°30.31'N, 6°37.64'E
Today we'll be taking a cruise on Lake Geneva from Lausanne to Geneva aboard the Henry-Dunant.
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7/8/2022: Ouverture au Monde
Position: 46°30.30'N, 6°37.62'E
The shimmering sculpture Ouverture au Monde (Open to the World) by Angel Duarte at the end of the pier in the Port Lausanne-Ouchy. Duarte is a mathematician who creates works with rigorous geometry.
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7/8/2022: Eole
Position: 46°30.28'N, 6°37.60'E
The wind vane sculpture Eole, on a breakwater for the Port Lausanne-Ouchy. Four monoliths on the the quay nearby, representing the wind direction quadrants, complete the work. Each monolith has a notch that will line up to form a complete circle with the wind vane when the wind is in that direction.
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7/8/2022: Lausanne
Position: 46°30.13'N, 6°37.27'E
View back to Lausanne as the Henry-Dunant departs port, with the Cathedrale du Notre Dame prominent at center.
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7/8/2022: St Sulpice Abbey Church
Position: 46°30.49'N, 6°33.76'E
The St Sulpice Abbey Church on Lake Geneva dates from the 12th century. It is one of the oldest Romanesque (architectural style common in Europe from 900–1200) churches in Switzerland.
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7/8/2022: Chateau de Morges
Position: 46°30.19'N, 6°31.54'E
The Chateau de Morges was built near the end of the 13th century as a fortress. Over the centuries it served as a bailiff's residence, an administrative center, a courthouse, an arsenal and a prison. It has been a military museum since 1925.
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7/8/2022: Lunch
Position: 46°29.17'N, 6°28.70'E
A Swiss lunch of shaved meat and fresh bread aboard the Henry-Dunant as we cruise towards Geneva.
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7/8/2022: Chateau de Rolle
Position: 46°27.32'N, 6°20.88'E
The medieval fortress Chateau de Rolle was built in the 13th century with an unusual design where each tower is unique from the rest.
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7/8/2022: Chateau d'Yvoire
Position: 46°22.83'N, 6°20.07'E
The 14th-century castle Chateau d'Yvoire in the French city of the same name. The Swiss-French border runs along the middle of Lake Geneva, and we've just crossed into France. A majority of the passengers on the Henry-Dunant disembarked at Yvoire for lunch or shopping at this popular destination.
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7/8/2022: Chateau de Nyon
Position: 46°22.93'N, 6°15.68'E
Lake Geneva has a lot of castles. Pictured is Chateau de Nyon, built as a fortified house in the 12th century and now a history museum.
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7/8/2022: Modern Home
Position: 46°19.88'N, 6°12.79'E
A distinctive and beautiful modern home along Lake Geneva at Founex.
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7/8/2022: Kitesurfers
Position: 46°16.69'N, 6°10.25'E
Many kitesurfers were taking advantage of the strong winds off the point at Versoix.
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7/8/2022: Surfing
Position: 46°16.66'N, 6°10.66'E
A kitesurfer skimming along the surface towards our ship.
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7/8/2022: Mont Blanc
Position: 46°16.74'N, 6°10.33'E
We've been getting glimpses to 15,773 ft (4,807 m) Mont Blanc as we sailed along Lake Geneva, and it burst into full view off Versoix. Mont Blanc is the tallest mountain in the Alps, and Western Europe.
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7/8/2022: Phare des Paquis
Position: 46°12.58'N, 6°9.57'E
The Phare des Paquis lighthouse in Geneva was erected in 1894, replacing the initial lighthouse built in 1857. We’ll be disembarking here in Geneva after a very enjoyable cruise along Lake Geneva from Lausanne.
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7/8/2022: Wind Break
Position: 46°12.27'N, 6°9.07'E
After dropping of our bags at our hotel, we set out for an afternoon walk around Geneva. This restaurant along Lake Geneva came up with a rather creative way to deal with the day's strong winds.
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7/8/2022: Fontaine des Quatre-Saisons
Position: 46°12.25'N, 6°9.11'E
The Fontaine des Quatre-Saisons, by famous French sculptor Mathurin Moreau, was erected in the Geneva Jardin Anglais (English Garden) in 1862.
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7/8/2022: L'Horloge Fleurie
Position: 46°12.24'N, 6°9.06'E
The L'Horloge Fleurie (Flower Clock), created in 1955 in the Jardin Anglais, is made up of 6,500 living flowers and is the most photographed monument in Geneva.
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7/8/2022: Place du Molard
Position: 46°12.20'N, 6°8.91'E
Restaurant-filled Place du Molard is very popular on this warm and sunny Friday afternoon.
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7/8/2022: Rue des Barrieres
Position: 46°12.14'N, 6°8.91'E
Rue des Barrieres in Geneva's old town, leading up to Cathedral St-Pierre.
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7/8/2022: Cathedral St-Pierre
Position: 46°12.09'N, 6°8.96'E
Cathedral St-Pierre in Geneva was built as a Roman Catholic church between 1160 and 1252 on the grounds of a 6th-century basilica. The church later became Reformed Protestant and was the adopted home church of John Calvin, a leader of the Protestant Reformation.
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7/8/2022: Chez ma Cousine
Position: 46°12.04'N, 6°8.96'E
A casual and tasty meal at Chez ma Cousine along Geneva's historic Place du Bourg-de-Four. The square is the oldest in the city, dating from the 9th century as a marketplace.
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7/8/2022: K!Douro Wine & Tapas
Position: 46°12.73'N, 6°8.76'E
On our way home from dinner, we stopped off for a drink at an appealing street-side table at the K!Douro Portuguese Wine & Tapas Bar on Rue de Zurich.
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7/8/2022: Carerra RSR
Position: 46°12.64'N, 6°8.71'E
A rare 1970s-era Porsche Carerra RSR parked on the street near our Geneva hotel. A limited number of the vehicles were produced as race cars, and they command a price of well over one million USD, if you can find one for sale.
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7/8/2022: El Reudo
Position: 46°12.66'N, 6°8.72'E
A final stop for the evening for a glass of Spanish red at El Reudo below our hotel.
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7/8/2022: Dusk
Position: 46°12.67'N, 6°8.74'E
Mont Blanc colored pink in the setting sun, viewed from our room at the Hotel D in Geneva.
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7/9/2022: Late Night
Position: 46°12.67'N, 6°8.73'E
As we left our hotel shortly after 7am, we passed a large group drinking wine and beer at the LM Boulangerie. That's a pretty late night.
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7/9/2022: Geneva Station
Position: 46°12.59'N, 6°8.49'E
At the Geneva train station to catch a streetcar to CERN, the European Organization for Nuclear Research (acronym derived from the French term Conseil Europeen pour la Recherche Nucleaire).
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7/9/2022: CERN
Position: 46°13.99'N, 6°3.34'E
We arrived at CERN just before 8am and are first in line. The reason we arrived so early is to sign up for their tours, which fill up quickly. Sign-up can only be done in person the day of the tour.
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7/9/2022: Atlas Detector
Position: 46°13.97'N, 6°3.34'E
Photograph at CERN of the ATLAS detector, the largest volume detector ever constructed for a particle collider at 150 ft (46m) long and 82ft (25m) in diameter. The detector weighs 7,000 tonnes, similar to the weight of the Eiffel Tower, and is installed 328ft (100m) below ground. For scale, a person is just visible at center, standing on a walkway beyond the blue central section (click image for a larger view).
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7/9/2022: Large Hadron Collider
Position: 46°13.96'N, 6°3.34'E
The large circle in the picture shows the footprint of the Large Hadron Collider (LHC), first used at CERN in 2008. It's the world's largest at 17 miles (27 km) in circumference and in a tunnel as deep as 574 ft (175m). For scale, the Geneva airport is at bottom right.
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7/9/2022: Magnet Interconnection
Position: 46°13.96'N, 6°3.34'E
The Large Hadron Collider uses superconducting electromagnets to guide two two high-energy particle beams in opposite directions at close to the speed of light before they are made to collide. This cutaway shows the interconnection between two superconducting magnets. The magnets sit inside a cryostat and are cooled by liquid helium, brought in through the helium pipe, to slightly above absolute zero (-460°F; -273°C), or around 572°F (300°C) below the ambient temperature in the tunnel. The bellows allow for expansion and contraction. The nobium-titanium cable brings power to the magnets, the beam pipe is where the particle beams travel and the beam-pipe fingers maintain an electrical connection between the magnets while they cool during colliding. The diodes are an emergency measure to drain current from the system should the magnets stop working.
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7/9/2022: IBM 3090
Position: 46°13.95'N, 6°3.30'E
The IBM 3090 was one of CERN's last mainframes, used for experiments from 1986 to 1991. The system was water-cooled to keep temperatures under control.
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7/9/2022: Synchrocyclotron Tour
Position: 46°13.98'N, 6°3.16'E
The CERN tours are conducted by resident scientists who know the technology in amazing detail. Here our guide is discussing important events in CERN's history on a tour of the Synchrocyclotron, CERN's first accelerator.
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7/9/2022: Synchrocyclotron
Position: 46°13.98'N, 6°3.16'E
The Synchrocyclotron was CERN's first accelerator, in use from 1957 through 1990. The large red-painted section is the accelerator's magnet. Part of the tour included an excellent animation showing how the accelerator worked, using animations projected onto the accelerator's surfaces.
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7/9/2022: Tools
Position: 46°13.98'N, 6°3.16'E
These surprisingly low-tech tools at the Synchrocyclotron were used to tighten the accelerator's red magnet.
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7/9/2022: Pizza d'Oro
Position: 46°13.74'N, 6°4.26'E
A great pizza lunch at Pizza d'Oro in Meyrin, near CERN.
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7/9/2022: CMS Detector
Position: 46°13.95'N, 6°3.34'E
Jennifer studying a life-sized model of the Compact Muon Solenoid (or CMS) detector, a general-purpose detector that sits at one of the four collision points within the Large Hadron Collider. The technology is impressive, but also quite beautiful.
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7/9/2022: Microcosm Garden
Position: 46°13.97'N, 6°3.33'E
The Microcosm Garden displays components of past CERN experiments, looking much like modern sculptures.
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7/9/2022: Globe of Science and Innovation
Position: 46°14.02'N, 6°3.32'E
The Globe of Science and Innovation event and visitor's center originally was built for the sixth Swiss National Exposition, Expo.02, that took place in Neuchatel, Switzerland.
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7/9/2022: Universe of Particles
Position: 46°14.05'N, 6°3.35'E
The Universe of Particles exhibit inside the Globe of Science and Innovation covers contemporary physics problems that currently are under research at CERN.
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7/9/2022: Wandering the Immeasurable
Position: 46°14.02'N, 6°3.35'E
The striking sculpture Wandering the Immeasurable, by Canadian artist Gayle Hermick, outside the Globe of Science and Innovation. The work symbolizes knowledge passing between people with the outer layer showing scientific discoveries, and the inner layer displaying equations and symbols representing the math behind the science.
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7/9/2022: ATLAS Mural
Position: 46°14.09'N, 6°3.37'E
Mural of ATLAS by American artist Josef Kristofoletti, painted on the side of the building containing its control room. The mural is three stories tall yet still only one-third the size of the actual detector. The mural accurately depicts the detector and is intended to be the next best thing to seeing ATLAS itself, which is closed to visitors.
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7/9/2022: ATLAS Control Room Tour
Position: 46°13.83'N, 6°3.93'E
We were able, just barely, to fit in both CERN tours in one day. Here a graduate student, who was only a few hours minutes ago working in the ATLAS control room, is taking us on a tour of that facility. She was wonderfully enthusiastic and knowledgeable about CERN and its technology.
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7/9/2022: Atlas in Lego
Position: 46°14.13'N, 6°3.35'E
A model of the ATLAS detector built of lego.
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7/9/2022: ATLAS Control Room
Position: 46°14.13'N, 6°3.35'E
The ATLAS control room, where experiments and the state of the detector are monitored. The tour also included a 3D movie explaining how accelerators work.
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7/9/2022: LHC Section
Position: 46°14.02'N, 6°3.24'E
Lifesize model of a section of the Large Hadron Collider.
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7/9/2022: Border Crossing
Position: 46°14.10'N, 6°3.03'E
The CERN grounds are on the Swiss-French border and since we were so close, we decided to make a quick walk into France. This traffic sign at the border seems to be directing tourist to the left and people with trumpets on fire to the right :-).
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7/9/2022: In France
Position: 46°14.11'N, 6°2.95'E
Looking back to Switzerland from France. Both are Schengen states, but Switzerland in not part of the EU customs zone, so we were surprised not to see any border crossing guards.
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7/9/2022: Jet d'Eau
Position: 46°12.67'N, 6°8.74'E
The 460-ft (140m) Jet d'Eau (water jet), in Lake Geneva, viewed from our hotel room. It wasn't running yesterday due to high winds and we were disappointed not to see it. The water jet is back running at its normal amazing height today
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7/9/2022: Brunswick Monument
Position: 46°12.50'N, 6°8.89'E
The Brunswick Monument, completed in 1879, commemorates Charles II, Duke of Brunswick, who bequeathed his fortune to the city of Geneva.
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7/9/2022: Full Jet d'Eau
Position: 46°12.48'N, 6°8.94'E
Full view to the 460-ft (140m) Jet d'Eau (water jet) in Lake Geneva. The first Jet d'Eau was built in 1886 to relieve excess pressure at a nearby hydraulic plant and became a symbol of the city. The current incarnation was installed in 1951.
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7/9/2022: Le Casanova
Position: 46°12.44'N, 6°8.88'E
A wonderful meal street-side at Le Casanova in Geneva. We had their specialty, perch fillets from Lake Geneva.
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7/9/2022: Rue du Mont-Blanc
Position: 46°12.53'N, 6°8.66'E
An evening drink in the pedestrian mall Rue du Mont-Blanc.
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7/9/2022: Dusk
Position: 46°12.67'N, 6°8.75'E
A final dusk view in Switzerland, of Mont Blanc in France, before we fly home early tomorrow morning. We had a fabulous time in Switzerland and would definitely return, perhaps in the winter.
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7/10/2022: Geneve Aeroport
Position: 46°13.94'N, 6°6.41'E
At the Geneva airport for our flight home to Seattle via Frankfurt.
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7/10/2022: Shuttle
Position: 46°13.74'N, 6°6.13'E
Riding a shuttle bus from the terminal to our plane out on the tarmac. Our experiment of taking only carry-on luggage worked super-well. We really liked the convenience of having small, easily stowed and transported bags. And doing laundry at a few hotels along the way held us for the trip.
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7/10/2022: Lake Geneva
Position: 46°14.80'N, 6°7.31'E
The view south across Lake Geneva as we take off for Frankfurt. At center in the distance is Mont Blanc and at right is Geneva.
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7/10/2022: Mont Blanc
Position: 46°16.03'N, 6°9.13'E
One last view to Mont Blanc in France as we depart the Geneva area.
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7/10/2022: Main
Position: 50°5.14'N, 8°35.47'E
View to the river Main, the largest tributary of the Rhine, on our approach into Frankfurt.
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7/10/2022: Barge
Position: 50°6.78'N, 8°48.92'E
A river barge running west along the river Main. The river barges were a constant during our time in the Netherlands, and we miss seeing them.
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7/10/2022: Schleuse Offenbach
Position: 50°5.90'N, 8°45.21'E
The Schleuse Offenbach along the river Main. Canals were built into the lower reaches of the river in the late 1800s, as was this lock, and the river currently has 34 barrages (a diversion dam used to control water levels) that maintain the water level at a minimum of 9.5ft (2.9m). The current Schleuse Offenbach was completed in 1953, has a drop height of 10.4ft (3.18m) and can accommodate ships up to 1,128 ft (344m) long with a 39-ft (12m) beam.
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7/10/2022: Westhafen
Position: 50°5.04'N, 8°41.65'E
Looking across the Westhafen district of Frankfurt as we descend to the airport. At bottom left, across the river, is the apartment-surrounded Marina Westhafen, with the Frankfurt train station beyond and at right is the 30-story, emerald-colored Westhafen Tower, completed in 2004.
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7/10/2022: Frankfurt Airport
Position: 50°2.91'N, 8°35.24'E
The view from our shuttle to the terminal building at Frankfurt Airport.
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7/10/2022: Lounge Line
Position: 50°2.87'N, 8°34.05'E
Airport lounges have been busy on this trip, but this line to enter the Lufthansa Lounge takes the record. It snakes way around the corner in the distance at left. We'll pass on that one.
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7/10/2022: Lufthan Technik
Position: 50°2.55'N, 8°33.74'E
The Lufthan Technik service buildings at Frankfurt airport, viewed from the shuttle out to our plane to Seattle. Lufthan Technik is a subsidiary of Lufthansa and provides worldwide maintenance, repair, and overhaul services for aircraft, engines, and components.
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7/10/2022: Mt Rainier
Position: 46°33.72'N, -121°59.48'W
"The Mountain", Mt Rainier, as we arrive into the Seattle area from Switzerland. We're nearly home. The scenery in Switzerland was truly spectacular, but it's pretty special here as well.
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7/10/2022: Crane Base
Position: 47°36.99'N, -122°20.59'W
In the time we've been away in Switzerland, an entire crane base has been built at the Fourth and Bell construction site.
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7/10/2022: Pursuit Systems
Position: 47°36.99'N, -122°20.57'W
As we walked out for dinner, this Pursuit Systems chase vehicle was being unloaded across the road from our apartment building. Pursuit Systems specializes in stabilized cameras suspended from a crane mounted on a chase-vehicle rooftop.
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7/10/2022: Black Unicorn
Position: 47°36.99'N, -122°20.57'W
The Black Unicorn remote stabilized camera mount on the Pursuit Systems chase vehicle.
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7/10/2022: Tavolata
Position: 47°36.86'N, -122°20.80'W
An excellent "welcome home" meal at our favorite table in Tavolata. The food is great and we love the street view, particularly in the summer with the glass wall opened up.
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7/10/2022: Camera
Position: 47°37.04'N, -122°20.34'W
The Pursuit Systems vehicle we saw earlier was in town for the shooting of a Genesis car commercial, so we stopped by to have a look. This ultra-stabilized camera cart is sporting a capable-looking RED professional cinematography camera.
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7/10/2022: Custom Drone
Position: 47°37.09'N, -122°20.44'W
Another RED professional cinematography camera, this one mounted on a custom drone.
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7/10/2022: Pursuit in Action
Position: 47°37.09'N, -122°20.52'W
The Pursuit Systems chase care in action: https://youtu.be/tgo_bn03lY4.
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7/10/2022: Albert Khandzhayan
Position: 47°37.08'N, -122°20.44'W
The Seattle Police were on hand to block off the streets for car commercial. Office Albert Khandzhayan noticed us checking out his police car and came over to say hello. He was super-friendly, and we quite enjoyed chatting with him.
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7/10/2022: Seattle Police Car
Position: 47°37.09'N, -122°20.44'W
The Seattle Police department uses Ford Explorers with a lot of technology installed.
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7/10/2022: Reflections
Position: 47°37.06'N, -122°20.38'W
Downtown apartment tower reflected onto Amazon campus building along 8th Ave.
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