Sweden monitors its coast closely and has even reinstated EU-internal border controls in places. So we weren’t surprised when a Swedish Coast Guard vessel made a beeline for Dirona when we came into view while anchored in the Misterhult Archipelago just north of Kalmar.
Their visit was brief and friendly, and we otherwise spent two solitary days exploring the 2000-island archipelago, considered among the most beautiful in the world. We did see the same coast guard vessel again, and others further north, but we seem to be in their system now and simply get a wave or a friendly horn toot as they pass.
Below are trip highlights from April 4th and 5th, 2019 in the Misterhult Archipelago, SE. Click any image for a larger view, or click the position to view the location on a map. And a live map of our current route and most recent log entries always is available at mvdirona.com/maps
Oland Bridge
Position: 56°40.54’N, 16°23.55’E
Passing under Oland Bridge just after a 5am departure from Kalmar.
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Sillasen Lighthouse
Position: 56°45.56’N, 16°29.37’E
Passing close to the Sillasen Lighthouse at dawn.
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Sunrise
Position: 56°46.11’N, 16°29.85’E
Sunrise over the island of Oland.
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Borgholm Castle
Position: 56°50.58’N, 16°31.96’E
Borgholm Castle on the island of Oland is a distinctive landmark for miles.
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Oskarshamn Nuclear Power Site
Position: 57°22.75’N, 16°43.47’E
On this site is a spent nuclear materials storage facility, and three power generation reactors. The first reactor at Oskarshamn Nuclear Power Plant was completed in 1972, the second in 1975 and a third in 1985. The first two have since been closed due to high operating costs compared to wind power. The third reactor needs extensive modernizations to continue operating beyond 2020.
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Rocks Awash
Position: 57°27.09’N, 16°44.51’E
Nasty-looking rocks awash as we enter the the Misterhult Archipelago just off Krakelund.
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Misterhult Archipelago
Position: 57°28.99’N, 16°44.54’E
Fabulous scenery as we pass through dozens of small island in the Misterhult Archipelago en route to our anchorage off Karingskaret. The 2000-island archipelago is considered among the most beautiful in the world.
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Marks
Position: 57°29.58’N, 16°44.40’E
The channels amongst the islets in the Misterhult Archipelago are complex, shallow and winding. Some are marked in detail, but most aren’t.
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Swedish Coast Guard
Position: 57°29.91’N, 16°43.83’E
A Swedish Coast Guard vessel passed in the distance. We expected our US flag would catch their interest, and it did.
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Boarding
Position: 57°29.91’N, 16°43.83’E
The Swedish Coast Guard vessel did an abrupt turn and headed towards us. When they were close, the officer asked if they could board. The skipper carefully brought their ship up close so they could board at the pilot house level.
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Inspection
Position: 57°29.91’N, 16°43.83’E
A friendly visit from the Swedish Coast Guard to check our paperwork. They wanted to see our passports, including Spitfire’s, and the ship’s papers.
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Departing
Position: 57°29.90’N, 16°43.83’E
We passed muster and the Swedish Coast Guard were on and off in ten minutes.
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Karingskaret
Position: 57°29.91’N, 16°43.83’E
Enjoying happy hour on deck at a beautiful anchorage off Karingskaret in the Misterhult Archipelago. We had the patio heater on, but it was warm enough at 47°F (8.36°C) we didn’t really need it with our Mustang 2175s and ate dinner on deck without it.
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Spitfire
Position: 57°29.91’N, 16°43.83’E
Spitfire enjoying the sunset.
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Sunset
Position: 57°29.91’N, 16°43.83’E
Fabulous sunset from the anchorage off Karingskaret in the Misterhult Archipelago.
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Sunrise
Position: 57°29.91’N, 16°43.83’E
Beautiful pink sunrise off Karingskaret.
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Speed Limit
Position: 57°31.53’N, 16°44.23’E
On our way to the next anchorage, we passed a small basin full of moorings with a speed limit sign. It must get busy here in the summer season.
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Underway
Position: 57°31.78’N, 16°44.13’E
Underway in Sweden’s Misterhult Archipelago on a beautiful, calm and sunny day.
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Islets
Position: 57°31.82’N, 16°44.12’E
Islets east of Strupo island aglow in the morning sun.
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Swans
Position: 57°32.73’N, 16°42.85’E
Much of the northern Misterhult Archipelago where we are is a nature reserve, rich in birdlife. Out on a tender tour, we saw many nesting swans and other waterfowl.
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Village
Position: 57°31.79’N, 16°44.77’E
Small village tucked into a sheltered cove on the island of Strupo.
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Ring
Position: 57°31.76’N, 16°44.17’E
A common anchoring technique in Sweden is to anchor off the stern with a bow line a shore, the opposite of stern-tying, commonly done in busy Pacific Northwest anchorages. We were expecting to see lots of rings in the shore to tie off to, but only found this one that looked much beefier than needed.
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Tender
Position: 57°31.76’N, 16°44.17’E
Bundled up in our Mustang 2175s for a tender trip through the Misterhult Archipelago in 47°F (8.36°C). We’re putting our winter boating techniques to good use, but this isn’t even close to the coldest weather we’ve been out in.
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Dirona
Position: 57°32.01’N, 16°44.19’E
Looking across the islets west of the island of Strupo to our anchorage.
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Coast Guard
Position: 57°32.37’N, 16°43.94’E
Near sunset we saw a Coast Guard approaching slowly. We were expecting another inspection, but it was the same boat as before. They were just passing slowly, likely to avoid rocking our boat, and sped up beyond the anchorage after giving us a friendly wave.
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Sunset
Position: 57°32.37’N, 16°43.94’E
Another spectacular Swedish sunset in the Misterhult Archipelago.
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Click the travel log icon on the left to see these locations on a map, with the complete log of our cruise.
On the map page, clicking on a camera or text icon will display a picture and/or log entry for that location, and clicking on the smaller icons along the route will display latitude, longitude and other navigation data for that location. And a live map of our current route and most recent log entries always is available at mvdirona.com/maps. |
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