Bainbridge Island

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Bainbridge Island, across the Puget Sound from Seattle, has had a robust Japanese community since immigrants first arrived there in the late 1800s. Their world was shattered following the air attack on Pearl Harbor, when President Franklin D. Roosevelt signed an executive order for the nation-wide internment of over 125,000 US residents of Japanese descent, the majority US-born citizens. Due to their proximity to the Puget Sound naval bases, the first to be interned were the 267 Japanese-American Bainbridge Island residents, who were forcibly removed from their homes in 1942 and not allowed to return until 1945.

In a tragedy that a 1970 presidential commission later concluded was based mostly on racism, most lost their homes, property, jobs, and invaluable personal items. The Bainbridge Island Japanese American Exclusion Memorial, opened in 2011, tells the story of the internees and the impact on their lives, with the motto of “Nidoto Nai Yoni (Let It Not Happen Again)”.

We visited the sobering memorial, pictured above, during a weekend trip to Bainbridge Island this spring. A 7-mile (11 km) walk, partially on the Eagle Harbor Waterfront Trail, took us from Winslow around to the memorial along the south side of Eagle Harbor, then on to Blakely Harbor and finally to Lynwood Center. We’d anchored in those harbors dozens of times when we boated in Seattle, but hadn’t ventured far inland when we went ashore, so the walk gave us a chance to explore some new territory.

Blakely Harbor looked much the same, but Lynwood Center had changed a lot since our list visit back in 2010, when we’d gone ashore from our “Unusual Puget Sound Anchorage” in Rich Passage. In the newly-developed Pleasant Beach Village, we enjoyed several whimsical animal sculptures and caught up with an old friend who lives nearby before returning back to Winslow for the night.

Below are highlights from April 5th and 6th, 2024. Click any image for a larger view, or click the position to view the location on a map. And a map with our most recent log entries always is available at mvdirona.com/maps.

4/5/2024
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Coleman Dock, Seattle


At Coleman Dock in Seattle, waiting for the ferry to Bainbridge Island. We’ll be spending the weekend there and don’t need a car, so walking on is the most efficient option.
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Eagle Harbor


Entering Eagle Harbor, at the south end of Bainbridge Island, aboard the ferry Chimacum. The ferry terminal is dead ahead and to the three ferries visible at left are moored at the Washington State Ferry Maintenance Facility.
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Welcome to Bainbridge Island


We’ve not visited Bainbridge Island for years and are happy to be back.
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Eagle Harbor View Cottage


The view from VRBO-rented Eagle Harbor View Cottage, where we’ll be staying for our weekend on Bainbridge Island. The cottage was an easy walk from the ferry and into town and made a great base for us.
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Harbor Public House


Dinner on the patio at our favorite Bainbridge Island haunt, Harbor Public House. Despite the 45°F (7.2°C) temp, we were plenty warm sitting outside next to the fire pit.
4/6/2024
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Volvo Laplander


A 1960s Volvo Laplander military vehicle, parked near the Harbor Public House on Bainbridge Island. Just visible to the right is Land Rover military ambulance from the same period.
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Harbor Public House


Back at Harbor Public House for a delicious lunch. The temperature was a little cooler today, and the heaters weren’t on outside, so we sat inside.
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Nordhavn 475 Freya


Nordhavn 475 Freya, viewed from Harbor Public House on Bainbridge Island.
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Cooks Wanted


We were wondering why the Harbor Public House wasn’t open on Sunday.
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Town Way to Water Park


The pocket park Town Way to Water near the head of Eagle Harbor, viewed on our way around the harbor to visit the Bainbridge Island Japanese American Exclusion Memorial on the south shore.
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Cherry Blossoms


Cherry trees in bloom on Bainbridge Island at Lowell Ave SW.
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Moritani Preserve


Walking through Moritani Preserve, established in 2017 as Bainbridge Island’s newest park. The property once was owned by the Japanese-American Moritani family, who farmed berries there.
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Strawberry Park


Looking into the head of Eagle Harbor from Strawberry Park. We anchored here dozens of times in our first boat.
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Waterfront Trail


Walking a portion of the Waterfront Trail, a well-maintained network of trails, parks and roads that runs from the ferry dock to the head of Eagle Harbor. We’re just about at the end of it now.
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Eagle Harbor


Looking back across Eagle Harbor from the south shore, with the ferry dock visible in the distance on the north shore.
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Mac n Jacks


We were getting thirsty on our walk and were excited to see a sign advertising Mac n Jacks, a Redmond brewery. But the establishment turned out not to be a cafe, but an auto garage, presumably named after its owners.
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Japanese American Exclusion Memorial


At the Bainbridge Island Japanese American Exclusion Memorial, in memory of the island’s 267 Japanese-American residents who were forcibly removed to internment camps in 1942. It was part of a larger nation-wide internment of over 125,000 US residents of Japanese descent, the majority US-born citizens, resulting from an executive order signed by President Franklin D. Roosevelt following the attack on Pearl Harbor. In a tragedy that a 1970 presidential commission later concluded was based mostly on racism, most lost their homes, property, jobs, and invaluable personal items.
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Departure Deck


The Departure Deck of the Bainbridge Island Japanese American Exclusion Memorial is at the exact location of the Eagledale ferry dock, once a second stop on the Bainbridge Island ferry route, where all Japanese-Americans were ordered to report in 1942. Metal footsteps dramatically represent their final steps off the island before being deported to the camps.
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Alpaca


Hopeful Alpaca, looking for a handout, as we walk south along Taylor Ave NE towards Blakely Harbor.
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Blakely Harbor


View into Blakely Harbor, another favorite anchorage of ours.
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Boys Night Out


The whimsical sculpture Boys Night Out, by renowned Seattle artist Georgia Gerber, at Pleasant Beach Village. It is one of several commissioned by Pleasant Beach Village developer John Jacobi.
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Cats Fishing


An unnamed sculpture, of two cats fishing in a fountain, at Pleasant Beach Village.
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Mice Spitting


This was our favorite of the three animal sculptures, showing three mice spitting water towards a rather flumoxed-looking cat.
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Peter Spiro


During our walk, Bainbridge Island resident Peter Spiro spotted us on the road and we met up later at Earth & Vine Wine Bar. Peter and James worked together for years on Microsoft SQL Server and we haven’t seen him for ages. It was super-fun to get together and catch up.
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Bruciato


We ended our Bainbridge Island day with an excellent pizza dinner at Bruciato back near the ferry dock.
4/7/2024
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Doc’s Marina Grill


A delicious lunch with a view to the harbor at Doc’s Marina Grill on Bainbridge Island.
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Bay Otters


The sculpture Bay Otters, by tk, at the Bainbridge Island library.
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Pia the Peacekeeper


Pia the Peacekeeper in Sakai Park on Bainbridge Island is the first of five giant trolls that Danish sculptor Thomas Dambo is creating in the Seattle area. The others locations are West Seattle, Issaquah, Vashon Island, and Fremont.
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Sakai Park


Bainbridge Island has many wonderful trails and parks, large and small. After our stop to see Pia the Peacekeeper, we continued through Sakai Park along a boardwalk with views to Sakai Pond.
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John Nelson Trail


Walking the John Nelson trail alongside leafy Winslow Ravine. The short loop trail extends from the larger Sound to Olympics Trail.
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Sound to Olympics Trail


Looking down into Winslow Ravine from a substantial pedestrian bridge as we walk south along the newly-built Sound to Olympics Trail. Part of the Great American Rail Trail, this is the starting segment of a planned 7-mile (11 km) trail that will extend from the Bainbridge Island ferry dock to the Hood Canal Bridge via the Agate Pass bridge and the Kingston Ferry terminal.
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Waterfront Trail


Crossing a footbridge over the Winslow Ravine Creek estuary on the eastern portion of Bainbridge Island’s Waterfront Trail
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Hi-Life


With some time to kill before our ferry to Seattle departed, we stopped in for a beer on the patio at the gas station-turned-poke restaurant Hi-Life.
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Tacoma Arriving


Our ferry back to Seattle, the Tacoma, arriving at the Bainbridge Island dock.
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Seattle from Eagle Harbor


View to downtown Seattle from the ferry Tacoma as we pass through Eagle Harbor. We’d had a great weekend on Bainbridge Island and particularly enjoyed the many parks and trails in the area.
4/8/2024
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Egg Bites


Freshly baked “Grab-and-Go Egg Bites” to freeze for quick lunches. They are delicious both fresh and reheated after freezing.
4/11/2024
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Downtown Seattle


View to downtown Seattle from James’ return flight on a business trip to Portland. The twin towers of our apartment complex, Insignia, are visible slightly left of center, directly left of the powder blue building.
4/12/2024
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Tight Squeeze


A package delivery to our apartment complex just barely fitting through the doors.
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The Vault


Evening drinks at The Vault, a “secret” bar inside McMenamins Elks Temple in Tacoma. McMenamins is a Pacific Northwest chain of brewpubs, restaurants, music venues and hotels, many in historic buildings on the National Register of Historic Places. We visited one of their pubs on last year’s trip to Portland. In Tacoma, McMenamins recently renovated the historic Elks Temple, built in 1916 for the Fraternal Order of the Elks. McMenamins Elks Temple includes a 40-room hotel with 6 bars and restaurants. We had a great dinner at their pub, then went off and found the “secret” entrance to The Vault.
4/13/2024
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Mt. Rainier


“The Mountain” is certainly out today. This is the view across Foss Waterway to Mt. Rainer from Rock the Dock Pub and Grill where we had lunch.
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Black Fleet Brewing


Tacoma has a great microbrewery scene. Here we are at Black Fleet Brewing, the third of four microbreweries that we checked out in Tacoma’s brewery district.
4/14/2024
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The Fish Peddler


A delicious fresh fish lunch on the patio at The Fish Peddler restaurant and fish market in Tacoma before we head back to Seattle.
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M142 HIMARS


One of several M142 High Mobility Artillery Rocket System (HIMARS) we passed on I-5 while heading north from Tacoma to Seattle. The HIMARS have been in service since 2010 and can carry either six Guided Multiple Launch Rocket System (GMLRS) rockets or one Army Tactical Missile System (ATACMS) missile.
4/17/2024
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Structure Cellars


Seattle-based Structure Cellars on-site our apartment complex, Insignia, for a wine tasting. Insignia has a very active social committee that arranges a variety of events. We particularly enjoy their pub crawls.
4/19/2024
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Norwegian Sun


The Norwegian Sun, the third cruise ship departure of the 2024 season, moored at Pier 91. The ship was scheduled to dock at Pier 66, where the Norwegian ships almost always dock, but for some reason is at Pier 91 instead.
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Ship Canal


View to the Ship Canal between Elliott Bay and Lake Union, viewed from James’ flight on business to San Francisco.
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HMCS Vancouver


The HMCS Vancouver, a Canadian Halifax-class frigate, arriving into the Port of Seattle.
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Three Sisters


A spectacular view to Oregon’s Three Sisters mountains on James’ return flight home from a business trip to San Francisco.
4/20/2024
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Cascade Mountains


Snow-covered Cascade Mountains rising above I-5 as we drive north to spend a Saturday night in Everett.
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Hotel Indigo


Our room for a night at the Hotel Indigo overlooking the Port of Everett Marina. We’ve passed through the area by boat many times, but have never spent any time here.
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Balcony View


The view to the Port of Everett Marina from the balcony of our room at the Hotel Indigo.
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Fisherman Jack’s


An excellent lunch on the patio at Fisherman Jack’s Asian restaurant overlooking the Port of Everett Marina. The weather is wonderfully warm today.
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Roxia


Nordhavn 62 Roxia moored at the Port of Everett Marina.
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Grand Avenue Park Bridge


Walking the double-layer Grand Avenue Park pedestrian bridge over the railroad tracks between Grand Avenue Park and the Everett waterfront. In addition to pedestrians and cyclists, the bridge also carries storm drainage and sewer pipelines.
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Port of Everett Marina


View to the Port of Everett Marina from the Grand Avenue Park Bridge.
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Sound2Summit


We stopped for a delicious hazy IPA on the patio at Sound2Summit brewery in Everett.
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Ducks


A group of ducks have taken over the dog water dish outside this Everett coffee shop.
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The Muse


A great meal and a fun evening at The Muse Whiskey Bar near the Hotel Indigo in Everett.
4/21/2024
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Easter Jesus Statue


We noticed a small Easter Jesus statue on top of the door in our room at the Hotel Indigo in Everett.
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Burned Boat, Everett


A boat that burned to the waterline sitting on a trailer at the Port of Everett boatyard.
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Dunlap Industrial Hardware


While walking around the Port of Everett this morning, we passed Dunlap Industrial Hardware. These huge hooks are part of their extensive commercial hardware inventory.
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Boat Launches


The Port of Everett boat launch must be very popular in the summer. The parking lot is massive and there are 14 individual launch ramps.
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N47 Indiscretion


Nordhavn 47 Indiscretion moored at the Port of Everett.
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Environmental Cleanup


Ongoing environmental cleanup of contamination from the several mills that once operated within the Port of Everett property.
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Anthony’s Home Port


View to the Port of Everett from our table for lunch at Anthony’s Home Port in Everett. The restaurant chain specializes in good quality seafood at waterfront properties. We frequented one in Seattle overlooking our berth at Bell Harbor Marina when we lived aboard there.
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Humvee


A Humvee (High Mobility Multipurpose Wheeled Vehicle, abbreviated as HMMWV and pronounced as Humvee) at Naval Station Everett, viewed from our table at Anthony’s Home Port. Hummer vehicles are street-versions of Humvees.
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Security Barriers


Pop-up security barriers at one of the Naval Station Everett gates. No vehicle is getting past those.
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Vindicktive Wings


Mike and Fletch Morgan, two of the four owners of Vindicktive Wings, are massive Sumo wrestling fans. One of the screens above the bar, visible to Jennifer’s right, plays Sumo wrestling 24×7. We didn’t think there was that much Sumo wrestling in the entire world. To show how truly massive these wrestlers are, a hand print from a large wrestler is mounted beside the TV. It’s easily twice the size of Jennifer’s hand.
4/22/2024
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Aston Martin


An Aston Martin Vantage parked outside our Seattle apartment building. As with the previous model, the new Vantage’s twin-turbo 4.0-liter V-8 has AMG DNA. But it’s been significantly reworked for increased output with new turbos, revised cam profiles, optimized compression ratios, and improved cooling. Output now sits at 656 horsepower and 590 pound-feet of torque, an increase of 128 horsepower and 85 pound-feet over the prior engine in the Vantage F1 edition, previously the most powerful Vantage variant. Power is transmitted to the rear axle via an eight-speed automatic transmission.
4/24/2024
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Clipper Round the World


CV27 Qingdao, arriving from Zhuhai, China into Bell Harbor Marina, our old home port. Qingdao is one of 11 identical yachts competing in the Clipper Round the World Race, a 10-month competition that starts and ends in Portsmouth, UK. The fleet will stay in Seattle for about a week before embarking on the 7th leg of the race, down the Pacific Coast and through the Panama Canal to US east coast, before completing the final leg across the Atlantic and back to Portsmouth.
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TSMC Symposium


James presenting at the annual TSMC Symposium in Santa Clara, California. TSMC (Taiwan Semiconductor Manufacturing Company Limited) is the largest semiconductor maker in the world by revenue and also by market share, producing 61% of chips worldwide. Amazon is a close partner of TSMC for their custom silicon work designed by subsidiary Annapurna Labs.
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La Palmera, Seattle


At La Palmera Mexican restaurant in South Lake Union for dinner. We ordered a Margarita to share, and the waiter brought it out with two crazy long straws.
4/25/2024
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Nat Geo Venture


National Geographic Venture arriving into Seattle on a foggy day prior to embarking on a 14-day trip through the Inside Passage to Sitka, Alaska.
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Butcher’s Table


Dinner at Butcher’s Table, one of our favorite Seattle restaurants. Here we are trying a new red not yet on their menu by Washington-based Cadence Winery. We quite enjoyed it.
4/26/2024
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Packages


Our apartment building has a constant flow of packages arriving, and the delivery people manage to bring in a huge amount in one load.
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Packing


We’re flying out to Budapest tonight for a one-week cruise along the Danube River and have laid out all the clothes and gear we will be taking with us. With just carry-on luggage, it was a tight squeeze to fit everything into the two suitcases at bottom left and the carry-on bag at upper left, but we succeeded.
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Delta Lounge


Watching the airport activity from the Delta lounge in SeaTac airport. In the brief time we’ve been sitting here, three planes have come and gone from the gate directly in front of us.
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Pushback Tractor


We were wondering how the plane’s nose gear was rolled onto the pushback tractor, and learned the answer. A strap pulls the nose gear onto the cradle at the front of the pushback tractor.
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Delta Suite


On board our flight from Seattle to Amsterdam, where we will connect through to Budapest for our Danube River cruise. The Delta One Suites are very nice, but nothing can compare to the Qatar Airways QSuites. We are wearing sunglasses to minimize exposure to light as part of adjusting our circadian rhythm 9 hours ahead using the Timeshifter jet lag app.
4/27/2024
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Schiphol Airport


At the KLM lounge in Schipol Airport. This is our first time back in Amsterdam since we departed for Antwerp in February of 2020.
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KLM Cityhopper to Budapest


A surprisingly tasty cold dinner of shrimp with noodles on the KLM Cityhopper flight from Amsterdam to Budapest.
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Budapest


Budapest consists of two cities, Buda on the west side of the Danube (at right) and Pest on the east side. The cruise ship we’ll be taking, the AmaMagna, will be docking this side of the bridge at lower right, and the Budapest Marriott where we will be staying the night is between the two bridges roughly at the center of the screen. The rightmost of these two bridges is the famous Szechenyi Chain Bridge, the first permanent bridge across the Danube River when opened in 1849.
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Welcome Taxi


We’ve used Welcome Pickup a few times for airport pickups, but often have had to wait for late-arriving drivers. This time we tried a slightly higher-end service, Welcome Taxi, and and so far we’re much happier with it.
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MVM Dome


Passing the MVM Dome, the largest handball arena in Europe, en route from the Budapest airport to our hotel. The venue also hosts many concert and other entertainment events, and the Hungarian violinist Maga Zoltan is playing there tonight.
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Groupama Arena, Budapest


Groupama Arena in Budapest, completed in 2017, predominately is used for football matches, but also can be used for concerts or private events.
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Budapest Marriott


Enjoying a drink on the terrace at our hotel, the Budapest Marriot, overlooking the Danube River in the background.
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Budapest Marriott View


The view across the Danube River to Castle Hill from our room at the Budapest Marriott. We loved the view to the river, with its constant boat traffic.
4/28/2024
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Viking Modi


The Viking Modi, one of a constant stream of riverboats plying the Danube, viewed from our room at the Budapest Marriot. The ship is about to pass under the famous Szechenyi Chain Bridge, the first permanent bridge across the Danube River when opened in 1849. In the background is centuries-old Matthias Church atop Castle Hill. We’ll be walking up there later today.
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Royal Palace


The view from our room at the Budapest Marriot to the former Royal Palace, now housing the Hungarian National Gallery, the Castle Museum, and the National Szechenyi Library. The first royal residence was established here in the 13th century and the palace has since been extended, razed and rebuilt many times.
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Vigado Concert Hall


The striking Vigado Concert Hall, completed in 1859, is the second largest in Hungary.
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Little Princess


The statue Little Princess by Hungarian sculptor Laszlo Marton, with the Royal Palace visible across the Danube. The work was inspired by his young daughter, who often dressed up as a princess in a bathrobe and crown made of newspaper.
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Roskovics


Monument to famous Hungarian painter Ignac Roskovics by Ukrainian-Hungarian artist Mihaly Kolodko, with the former Royal Palace in the background across the Danube.
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Baron Joseph von Eotvos


Bronze statue of Hungarian, statesman and writer Baron Joseph von Eotvos by 19th-century Hungarian sculptor Adolf Huszar.
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Castle Hill Funicular


Since 1870, the Castle Hill Funicular has carried passengers between the Royal Palace complex and the west shore of the Danube. We were planning to ride it up the hill, but the line-up was prohibitively long, so we instead took some of the myriad walking paths.
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Szechenyi Chain Bridge


View from partway up Castle Hill to the Szechenyi Chain Bridge, the first permanent bridge across the Danube River.
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Fisherman’s Bastion


Statue in Fisherman’s Bastion of Stephen I, the first King of Hungary from about 1000 to 1038. The bastion atop Castle Hill was completed in 1905 to celebrate Hungary’s millennial.
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Danube River


The sweeping view across the Danube River to Pest from Fisherman’s Bastion atop Castle Hill in Buda (click image for a larger view). The two cites Buda and Pest, on either sides of the Danube, together form Budapest.
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Ministry of Finance


The century-old neo-Gothic building that originally housed the Royal Hungarian Ministry of Finance is now one of the National Archive facilities. The building is being renovated and restored for the Ministry of Finance to move back in.
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Tancsics Mihaly


The view as we walk north from Castle Hill down the street Tancsics Mihaly, lined with several former palaces. In the distance at center is the century-old main building of the National Archives of Hungary. And on the left is the spire of the 1895 Lutheran Church of Budavar, the oldest Lutheran church in Buda. (The two cites Buda and Pest, on either sides of the Danube, together form Budapest.)
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Vienna Gate


Vienna Gate, historically connecting the Royal Palace complex with the road to Vienna, was an entry to the palace grounds since the Middle Ages. The gate was demolished in 1896, but restored in 1936 to celebrate the 250th anniversary of the recapture of Buda that ended 150 years of Ottoman rule.
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Castle Walls


The defensive walls of the Royal Palace complex, viewed from just outside Vienna Gate.
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Jogaila and Jadwiga


Monument near Vienna Gate to Jogaila and Jadwiga, the daughter of the King of Hungary. Jadwiga became the first female King of Poland in 1384 and they ruled together after their marriage in 1386.
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Europa Liget


The park Europa Liget, near the Vienna Gate, was opened in 1972 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the unification of Pest and Buda into Budapest. As part of the celebration, a congress of the 29 European capitals was held, where the leaders of each capital city planted a tree native to their country in Europa Liget. Limestone plaques in front of each tree identify the donating city.
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Zoltan Kodaly


Statue in the park Europa Liget of the Hungarian composer and music educator Zoltan Kodaly.
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Lajos Fountain


Lajos Fountain in Corvin Square is a memorial to Buda soda-water-maker Lajos Millacher, who left his fortune to the town 1898.
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Parliament


The striking Hungarian Parliament Building, the seat of the National Assembly of Hungary. Completed in 1904, the design is similar to that of the Houses of Parliament in the UK, a country Hungary hoped to emulate politically.
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Tom George Osteria


A delicious pizza street-side at Tom George Osteria in Pest. (The two cites Buda and Pest, on either sides of the Danube, together form Budapest.) In the background in the distance is the Bascila of St. Stephen.
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BudaxxxxPest


We got a giggle out of this garbage can on the opposite side of the street from Tom George Osteria where we had lunch.
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Bascila of St. Stephen


The Bascila of St. Stephen is Hungary’s most sacred Catholic Church. It is named after Stephen, the first King of Hungary, whose mummified hand is displayed inside.
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Vorosmarty Square


Vorosmarty Square is the start of Budapest’s famous shopping street Vaci utca. The square is named for Hungarian poet Mihaly Vorosmarty, a marble statue of whom stands beyond the trees on the left.
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Mihaly Vorosmarty


Marble statue of Hungarian poet and lyricist Mihaly Vorosmarty, erected in Vorosmarty Square in 1908. Beneath the seated Vorosmarty are figures representing various societal classes in Hungary at the time, such as a farmer, a student and a laborer.
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Archduke Josef Anton


Monument to Archduke Josef Anton in Budapest, erected in 1860 in Vorosmarty Square.
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Erzsebet Bridge


Crossing Erzsebet Bridge by taxi en route to our ship, the AmaMagna. Directly ahead is a statue of St. Gerard Sagredo Statue, a Hungarian bishop from 1030 until his death in 1046. The castle-like structure rising above the trees on the right is the private villa Schoch-Hegedus.
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AmaMagna Sun Deck


Looking down the double-wide sundeck of the AmaMagna, our home for the next week. Launched in 2019 and purpose-built for the Danube, the ship is the largest on the river with roughly twice the beam of most other Danube river boats. But rather than increasing passenger capacity, the ship instead has roomier accommodations and extensive public spaces, including four restaurants.
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Al Fresco


Dinner in sun-drenched Al Fresco at the bow of the AmaMagna.
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AmaMagna


We don’t sail until later in the evening, so we took a short walk around the area after dinner. The restaurant where we had dinner, Al Fresco, is visible directly above the boat name on the bow.
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Evening Drink


Enjoying an evening drink on the balcony of our cabin aboard the AmaManga.
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Budapest from AmaMagna


The view to Budapest from the AmaMagna, moored along the Danube. Crossing the river is Szechenyi Chain Bridge, the first bridge across the Danube, and beyond is the tower of Matthias Church in the atop Castle Hill.


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