MV Dirona travel digest for Hardangerfjord 2020

Position: 60°7.14'N, 6°16.04'E

A final view to Bondhusbrea Glacier as we depart Sundal just after sunrise.

Position: 60°7.37'N, 6°15.87'E

Cruising down Maurangsfjorden from Sundal at 7am. The days are getting shorter now with winter approaching.

Position: 60°13.24'N, 6°7.11'E

James slipped on the Fonnabu trail yesterday and injured his left wrist and right thumb. It's difficult to tell if they're broken or just severely sprained, but the swelling and discoloration are pretty severe. We're applying ice and compression and hopefully they'll heal quickly.

Position: 60°19.78'N, 6°18.88'E

The cargo ship With Harvest towering over the fish farm building where it is briefly moored. We saw this ship frequently on our last trip to Norway, and its our second sighting on this year's cruise. In this picture, they're using a conveyor crane to offload fish food into silos on either side of the maintenance building.

Position: 60°20.24'N, 6°20.69'E

Passing through narrow and scenic Holmsundet en route to the beautiful anchorage off Herand.

Position: 60°20.34'N, 6°21.09'E

We've not seen much organized tourism since we returned to Norway. This eco adventure boat is the first one we've seen underway.

Position: 60°20.35'N, 6°21.10'E

Reporter Ella Sandra Dahl Berland of the Tysenes local newspaper spotted us at anchor off the island and contacted us for an interview. The article was printed today. The cover is here and the full article is here (Norwegian only).

Position: 60°20.34'N, 6°21.12'E

Sunset from the anchorage at Herand.

Position: 60°16.73'N, 6°36.38'E

Hardangerfjord is the second longest fjord in Norway at 96 nautical miles long, and the fourth longest in the world. When we made a day trip there by car from Bergen in 2018, we really wished we had time to take Dirona down the scenic waterway. Today we finally did, and it was even more beautiful than we remembered. Here we are cruising south towards Odda in the longest of Hardangerfjord's branching arms, 20nm Sorfjorden.

Position: 60°8.21'N, 6°33.15'E

Aednafossen, fed by the Folgefonna Icefield, is one of the most widest and dramatic in Norway. The falls are 1,050 ft (320 m) high and widen out to a veiled section about 540ft (165m) wide, then narrows for the final 400ft (125m). It's unusual for a waterfall to widen and then narrow again like that.

Position: 60°7.02'N, 6°32.78'E

The Tyssedal power station was built between 1906 and 1918 and operated until 1989. It was one of the largest pressure power plants in the world when it first came online in 1918 with a production capacity of 100MW. The building is considered one of the best of Norway’s 20th-century architecture. The building now houses the Norwegian Museum of Hydropower and Industry, that we toured on our day trip to Hardangefjord in 2018.

The penstocks (supply lines) for the power plant are visible heading straight up the cliff behind. A Via Ferrata course that we hope to climb runs alongside.

Position: 60°6.90'N, 6°32.75'E

The TiZir Titanium & Iron plant has been operating in Hardangerfjord since 1986. Only in Norway could a large industrial facility look beautiful.

Position: 60°4.74'N, 6°32.70'E

Approaching the town of Odda, in a spectacular setting at the head of Sorfjorden.

Position: 60°4.18'N, 6°32.66'E

Views from our berth in Odda (clockwise from top left: forward, aft, starboard and port). It's a fabulous spot. Oddly, no power or water is available at the guest harbour, but we're fine with the generator. And the tourist office at upper left will run a hose out to us to fill our water when we need it.

Position: 60°4.08'N, 6°32.75'E

The first order of the day was a stop at the Post Office in Odda to pick up the replacement hiking boots we'd ordered for James.

Position: 60°4.14'N, 6°32.74'E

Metal statue of Guns 'n Roses guitarist Slash we passed on the way back to Dirona from the Post Office.

Position: 60°4.18'N, 6°32.66'E

A happy James with his new hiking boots to replace the ones that recently failed. Jennifer has a pair of Salomon Quest Prime boots that she really likes and have lasted well since purchase two years ago, so we got a pair for James.

Position: 60°4.23'N, 6°32.79'E

View to Dirona moored at Odda Guest Harbour with 4,530ft (1,381m) Ruklenuten in the background.

Position: 60°4.31'N, 6°32.89'E

Throughout Odda, large historic photographs are mounted on old buildings transform make the structures look like artwork. We love a city that's proud of it's industrial heritage.

Position: 60°4.19'N, 6°33.09'E

Capable-looking tow truck at Thord Paulsen AS. Longtime blog reader and Stockholm resident Torbjorn Curtsson told us that Thord Paulsen is one of the stars of the National Geographic reality TV series "Ice Road Rescue".

Position: 60°4.18'N, 6°32.66'E

Lunch on the boat deck at Odda with a fabulous view north down Sorfjorden.

Position: 60°5.83'N, 6°31.83'E

Most of the activities we have planned for Odda require a car. The nearest car rental location is a 45-minute walk from the guest harbour, but only a 12-minute bike ride, and we also wanted to take our bikes with us for one excursion. So we rented a small two-seater van that we could carry our bikes in. They are known as 'pizza vans' in Norway because pizza delivery people commonly use them.

Position: 60°3.91'N, 6°32.95'E

Jennifer and her bike are dwarfed by the massive structure in Odda known as the "Shell Roof", used to store raw materials for all the production lines at the smelting plant at Odda. Initially producing carbide and later cynamide, the plant was operational between 1908 and 2003 and was the largest in the world. A cableway with cradle cars ran to the far end of the building to transport material from the harbour.

Built in the mid 1950s, the structure is 52,500 sq feet (4875 m sq) with a height of 49 ft (15m) to the eaves and 65ft (20m) to the top of the shell. A remarkable engineering feat, the shell roof is a Norwegian invention, developed after World War II when building material was scarce. The large roof span rests on relatively few load-bearing pillars and is only 3 inches (8cm) thick.

Position: 60°3.97'N, 6°32.98'E

The transformation and distribution center, with the shell roof on the right. Completed in 1908, this building received, transformed and distributed all power coming from the Tyssedal power station to the smelting plant. Hydoelectric power such as produced at Tyssedal allowed heavy industry to be established in Norway in the early 1900s. In that timeframe, long-distance power distribution wasn't practical, so plants had to locate near the power source.

Position: 60°3.99'N, 6°32.98'E

This building housed the third generation furnace for the carbide plant at Odda. Calcium carbide is produced from a mixture of limestone and coke heated to 3,990 °F (2,200 °C) using an electric arc furnace. This requires an immense amount power, about 3500kWh to produce one tonne of carbide.

Position: 60°3.98'N, 6°33.01'E

Working red-hot metal at a small foundry on the site of the old Odda carbide plant. The facility is part of the Odda Industrial City Museum and is one of the last working industrial forges in the Nordic countries.

Position: 60°3.76'N, 6°32.97'E

Riding our bikes along the beautiful pathway along the river Opa.

Position: 60°3.31'N, 6°33.29'E

We're breaking even on gear today. We made a step forward with the replacement hiking boots, but a big step back when the chain on James bike parted and tore off the derailleur , jamming it in the spokes. We do have spare chain, and the local bicycle repair store has a derailleur , but they don't have the derailleur hanger. There are literally hundreds of different derailleur hangers in use in the industry, so you generally won't find them in stock at a bike store.

We got lucky on this failure. We're a couple of miles away from the boat, but it's all downhill from here.

Position: 60°3.24'N, 6°33.33'E

The Vastjun Bridge, built in 1898, crosses the head of the river Opa where it drains from the natural lake Sandvinvatnet.

Position: 60°3.31'N, 6°33.27'E

View down to Odda and Sorfjorden from the Vasthun bridge. The guest harbour where we are moored is roughly at center, to the left of the taller red building.

Position: 60°4.18'N, 6°32.66'E

Dusk in spectacular Odda, looking east from Dirona along the guest harbour with 1,480ft (1,466m) Moyfallsnuten behind.

Position: 60°21.80'N, 6°44.61'E

At the Fossastien trailhead, an hour's drive from Odda, for hike on the long-time tourist route along the river Kinso through the Husadalen Valley. The walk is considered one of the most beautiful in Norway because of the four major waterfalls en route.

Position: 60°21.13'N, 6°45.45'E

A short walk from the trailhead brought us to right to the base of the first waterfall, 337ft (103m) Tveitafossen. The air is filled with spray from the power of the flow.

Position: 60°21.12'N, 6°45.45'E

The Kinso power plant was built in 1917 to harness the power of the adjacent Tveitafossen waterfall. The facility initially had two 240kW turbines, and has been upgraded to produce 3 MW.

Position: 60°21.08'N, 6°45.56'E

Climbing the steep trail beside the Kinso power plant penstock.

Position: 60°21.00'N, 6°45.77'E

Dam along the Kinso river at the top of the power plant penstock.

Position: 60°21.05'N, 6°46.03'E

Walking through the woods on the way to the next falls.

Position: 60°21.06'N, 6°46.38'E

We got a later start to the day than normal, so it was lunch time when we reached spectacular 377ft (115m) Nyastolfossen, the second waterfall of the trip. Here we found a great spot for our meal with a clear view of the falls.

Position: 60°20.36'N, 6°47.82'E

Looking back along the river Kinso through the Husedalen Valley, with Hardangerfjord visible in the distance.

Position: 60°20.76'N, 6°47.33'E

The third waterfall, 200ft (60m) Nykkjesoyfossen, plunges down through a crevice in the cliff and lands with a crash, sending spray everywhere.

Position: 60°20.34'N, 6°47.64'E

Taking a small suspension footbridge over the river Kinso near the fourth falls.

Position: 60°20.30'N, 6°47.83'E

800ft (246m) Sotefossen, the fourth and most impressive waterfall on the trail, pours over the cliff in two parts.

Position: 60°20.54'N, 6°47.44'E

We walked partway back right alongside the river Kinso. This is the view from just above the top of Nykkjesoyfossen, the third falls.

Position: 60°20.59'N, 6°47.43'E

The view from the top of Nykkjesoyfossen to the Norwegian Trekking Association cabin at Nykkjesoy.

Position: 60°21.13'N, 6°46.42'E

From Nykkjesoy we followed a gravel road back to the trailhead, that gave us a view above the Nyastolfossen where we had lunch earlier in the day.

Position: 60°4.18'N, 6°32.66'E

Early morning calm looking north from our berth at Odda.

Position: 60°19.44'N, 6°39.45'E

Nordhavn 40 Bo-Bo moored at Ullensvang. Likely only two Nordhavns are currently in all of Norway, and both of them happen to be in Hardangerfjord. We've corresponded with Danish owners Lone and Anders Tang, who gave us helpful advice in cruising their home country, and we are looking forward to meeting them in person. But it's too early in the morning for a social call as we pass by en route to Vorringfossen.

Position: 60°27.60'N, 6°48.89'E

Norway has an impressive tunnel system, complete with inside-the-tunnel roundabouts. We're amazed every time we encounter one. Here we are in the Butunnelen, built in 2013, joining the road east towards Voringsfossen with the Hardangerbrua north across Eidfjord, also built in 2013.

Position: 60°25.50'N, 7°14.02'E

At the trailhead for the hike to Voringsfossen. We'd visited the falls from above on our 2018 Hardangerfjord day trip from Bergen, but this time we will hike to the base.

Position: 60°25.47'N, 7°13.95'E

Passing under the road and tunnel we just drove on as we walk the old road towards Voringsfossen. Many of the old narrow, cliff-hugging roads have become walking and cycling routes when new routes with tunnels replace them.

Position: 60°25.59'N, 7°13.97'E

Tunnels are better than open roads for a number of reasons, including falling rocks. We saw several huge gouges in the old road where large rocks like this one had fallen from above. This rock suggests that we should be upping the pace a bit. :)

Position: 60°25.61'N, 7°13.95'E

We'll be walking into the Mabodalen Valley alongside the river Bjoreio. The mist from the 597ft (182 m) falls, Voringsfossen, is visible in the distance.

Position: 60°25.66'N, 7°14.37'E

The trail we're walking was built in 1872 for tourists who wanted to view the base of the falls. This is the foundation of the trail hut, Fossastovo, where visitors could rest and have a simple meal en route.

Position: 60°25.68'N, 7°14.58'E

Near the end of the trail, a suspension bridge crosses the river Bjoreio. We crossed the bridge and continued on towards the base of the falls.

Position: 60°25.67'N, 7°14.82'E

The Voringsfossen plunging 597ft (182 m) falls into the Mabodalen Valley. A viewing platform above the falls is just visible at top center (click image for a larger view).

Position: 60°25.67'N, 7°14.82'E

Enjoying the view from the base of the falls. The humidity here is pretty much 100% with all the mist from the falls.

Position: 60°25.69'N, 7°14.65'E

Re-crossing the suspension bridge on our way back.

Position: 60°25.68'N, 7°14.63'E

Taking in the Voringsfossen falls from the suspension bridge across the river Bjoreio. What a beautiful hike.

Position: 60°25.68'N, 7°14.63'E

The big view east from the suspension bridge along the river Bjoreio to the mountains above the Mabodalen Valley. Norway doesn't have much on a small scale.

Position: 60°25.56'N, 7°15.07'E

We'd visited the top of the falls in 2018, but returned to check out the new pedestrian bridge across the top. The 150ft (47 m) bridge spans the gorge with 99 steps climbing 50ft (16m) from the lower to the higher side. Excellent aerial videography of the area at designboom.

Position: 60°25.57'N, 7°15.09'E

Great view south to Fossatromma, the upper falls above Voringsfossen, from the new pedestrian bridge.

Position: 60°25.58'N, 7°15.13'E

Looking back to the new bridge from the upper side, Fossli.

Position: 60°25.66'N, 7°15.21'E

Rainbow over the Tysvikofossen waterfall at right, with Voringsfossen on the left. The suspension bridge we crossed on the hike this morning is not discrenable, but is just above the center part of the picture where the river is narrowest.

Position: 60°25.61'N, 7°14.98'E

Hikers crossing the suspension bridge across the river Bjoreio that we crossed earlier today, viewed from above at Fossli.

Position: 60°25.70'N, 7°15.18'E

Lunch overlooking the Voringsfossen falls.

Position: 60°25.49'N, 7°14.20'E

Passing through the 2,762ft (842 m) Storegjeltunnelen, an unusual tunnel that loops back over itself as the road corkscrews through the mountain (see Wikipedia photo).

Position: 60°28.84'N, 6°49.67'E

Looking east towards the head of Eidfjorden as we pass over the Hardanger Bridge. The 4,530 ft (1,380m) bridge was completed in 2013 and its height of 180ft (55 m) prevents larger cruise ships from reaching the inner fjord any more.

Position: 60°30.74'N, 6°41.40'E

Driving south on the west shore of Granvinsjorden en route to the ferry terminal at Kvanndal. The road, completed in 1907, is single-lane in several sections such as this one. We're just hoping we don't encounter an oncoming bus or large truck.

Position: 60°28.30'N, 6°36.65'E

The ferry Utnefjord arrived at Kvanndal shortly after we did. The ship is fully electric and went into service in January of this year.

The payment system was interesing—an attendant simply scanned our vehicle from a distance with a handheld device and waved us on board, with the fee sent on to the rental car company. Most cars in Norway carry a scannable chip to make ferry and toll road payments easy and efficient. When we crossed the Hardanger Bridge earlier today, the van was also scanned and charge automatically sent on to the car rental company.

Position: 60°28.31'N, 6°36.77'E

Vacuum mooring system at Kvanndal that moors the ship by suction. This is faster and safer than having people manually tie the boat off. These systems seem to be really catching on.

Position: 60°28.32'N, 6°36.76'E

Our ride, a Volkswagen Caddy, on the ferry Utnefjord.

Position: 60°27.71'N, 6°37.10'E

A Ferrari 488 Spider on the ferry with us. It's a decidedly more upscale ride than our pizza van, but it can't carry two bicycles. :)

Position: 60°28.28'N, 6°37.04'E

View from the ferry Utnefjord up Granvinsjorden as we depart Kvanndal for Utne.

Position: 60°25.61'N, 6°37.29'E

The bow of the Utnefjord lifting as we near Utne.

Position: 60°25.61'N, 6°37.29'E

Approaching the town of Utne, from where we'll drive south along the west side of Sorjforden to Odda. The red-roofed building directly behind the green tower at water level is the Utne Hotel, founded in 1722, Norways's oldest continuously operating hotel.

Position: 60°7.31'N, 6°33.39'E

Pelton Wheel behind the Tyssedal power plant, a common fixture at historic Norwegian power plants.

Position: 60°7.33'N, 6°33.52'E

Looking up the penstocks, completed between 1906 and 1917, that once supplied water to the Tyssedal power plant. The top, known as Lilletop, is 1300ft (400m) up and is the destination of our hike today.

Position: 60°7.35'N, 6°33.52'E

We'll be climbing to Lilletop via the Tyssedal Via Ferrata along the path of the penstocks. Via Ferrata means "iron path" in Italian and is an increasingly popular mix of protected climbing and alpine hiking where participants use climbing gear to safely ascend exposed routes with spectacular views while attached at all times to iron cables, rungs, ladders and bridges.

The sport is popular in Norway, where a number have opened up in recent years. We really enjoyed our first Via Ferrata at Loen on our previous trip to Norway and have been looking forward to trying some more on this trip.

Position: 60°7.36'N, 6°33.56'E

Starting up the Tyssedal Via Ferrata at altitude 434 ft (132 m).

Position: 60°7.39'N, 6°33.64'E

After doing a couple of Via Ferrata climbs on our last trip to Norway, we learned that our standard climbing equipment we used for safety when clipped onto the stack wasn’t ideal for short-distance falls where the rope is sufficiently short that it doesn't provide much stretch. This leads to rapid declaration that can exceed the rating of normal climbing gear (in mountaineering terms this is called a high fall factor). So we purchased energy-absorbing lanyards with dual leashes, designed for via ferrata.

Besides being safer in a fall, the dual-lanyards means we never have to unclip entirely to reclip, and the automatic-locking carabiners are quick and easy to snap on and off. We've used them a lot working at high places around the boat, but this is the first time on an actual Via Ferrata course and they worked out really well. Here Jennifer is clipping on the top lanyard before releasing the lower one.

Position: 60°7.39'N, 6°33.65'E

Ascending a wall at 624 ft (190 m) with the penstocks and the Tyssedal power plant visible behind.

Position: 60°7.40'N, 6°33.67'E

Taking a break a little over halfway up at 698 ft (212 m).

Position: 60°7.41'N, 6°33.68'E

Climbing along the old furnicular railway alongside the penstocks.

Position: 60°7.44'N, 6°33.70'E

At altitude 909 ft (277 m), the via ferrata course moves away from the pipeline across a sheer face with rungs to step on and grab onto. Here Jennifer is working onto the wall away from the penstocks. And that picture is straight—the penstocks run on a very steep angle.

Position: 60°7.43'N, 6°33.72'E

James crossing the wall ahead of Jennifer.

Position: 60°7.44'N, 6°33.70'E

Looking down to the TiZir Titanium & Iron plant we passed on our way to Odda.

Position: 60°7.44'N, 6°33.70'E

James nearly across the wall.

Position: 60°7.44'N, 6°33.71'E

Jennifer crossing the sheer wall on the Tyssedal Via Ferrata course, a thousand feet up, with the penstocks and Sorjforden visible behind.

Position: 60°7.44'N, 6°33.71'E

James climbing a ladder up a the final section of the wall. At upper right are ruins of an old walkway strung along the cliff.

Position: 60°7.46'N, 6°33.70'E

View across Sorjforden to 4,160ft (1,268m) Anuten.

Position: 60°7.46'N, 6°33.71'E

James working back towards the penstocks along a wall above the one we just crossed.

Position: 60°7.46'N, 6°33.73'E

Looking down from 1025 ft (312m). We're relatively secure in our climbing gear, but it's easy to forget that when you look down.

Position: 60°7.46'N, 6°33.73'E

Jennifer crossing back to the penstocks along the second wall with the 1,050 ft (320 m) waterfall Aednafossen visible in the backround across Sorjforden.

Position: 60°7.45'N, 6°33.72'E

James climbing the last few rungs at the top of the Tyssedal Via Ferrata course at altitude 1056 ft (322 m).

Position: 60°7.44'N, 6°33.74'E

Jennifer nearly across the final wall section near the end of the via ferrata course.

Position: 60°7.43'N, 6°33.75'E

Taking in the view from a platform at the top of the Tyssedal Via Ferrata course at altitude 1067 ft (325 m).

Position: 60°7.44'N, 6°33.74'E

Looking down the penstocks from the top of the Tyssedal Via Ferrata course. We really enjoyed the climb, particularly being alongside the penstocks and seeing the industrial history. This also was a good test of James' injured wrist—wearing a heavy-duty brace he had little pain or difficulty making the climb, giving us more confidence in committing to the longer and more strenuous Trolltunga Via Ferreta course tomorrow.

Position: 60°7.43'N, 6°33.75'E

The 1,050 ft (320 m) waterfall Aednafossen viewed from the top of the Tyssedal Via Ferrata course.

Position: 60°7.50'N, 6°33.87'E

Aerial photograph of Lilletop, showing the various buildings there. Some are open for pre-arranged guided tours.

Position: 60°7.56'N, 6°33.87'E

Lunch with a view on a bluff above Lilletop. Norway is just amazingly beautiful.

Position: 60°7.55'N, 6°33.90'E

Looking up Sorjforden towards Odda from our lunch stop. From here, we returned back down to the van along a footpath to Lilletop.

Position: 60°2.79'N, 6°33.62'E

We finished our hike early in the afternoon, so decided to make a small road trip to Oddadalen, the Odda Valley, also know as the "Valley of Waterfalls". This is looking from the road across the lake Sandvinvatnet to the Buerbreene glaciers, an offshot of the Folgefonna Icefield.

Position: 60°1.34'N, 6°33.42'E

1,500ft (455m) Strandsfossen cascading into Sandvinvatnet, the first and northernmost fall in the "Valley of Waterfalls".

Position: 59°59.05'N, 6°33.98'E

The Vidfoss waterfall is nearly as wide as it is tall.

Position: 59°56.88'N, 6°35.01'E

The 540ft (165m) Latefossen twin waterfall has been a major tourist draw since the 19th century, attracting visitors from all over the world. The graceful stone bridge below was completed in 1859, and widened in the 1940s.

Position: 59°56.74'N, 6°35.04'E

At 262ft (80m) Espelandsfossen, the southernmost waterfall in the "Valley of Waterfalls". The fall often is overlooked due to its proximity to famous Latefossen—it's only a 3-minute walk between them.

Position: 60°4.18'N, 6°32.66'E

Back on Dirona, we repaired our grey water tank level sensor. The medium level float sensor has failed, so James is cutting a new one to fit.

Position: 60°4.18'N, 6°32.66'E

Spitfire getting a little attention during Happy Hour on the boat deck at Odda after a big and successful day.

Position: 60°7.98'N, 6°37.63'E

At Trolltunga Active in Skjeggedal to pay the maintenance fee for yesterday's climb up the Tyssedal Via Ferrata and today's ascent of the Trolltunga Via Ferrata.

Position: 60°7.97'N, 6°37.62'E

A map showing the trail to Trolltunga. The traditional route starts at Skjeggedal at parking lot 2 (P2 at left on map) and ascends 2,600ft (800m) over 8.5 miles (14km) one-way. The total round-trip is estimated to take 8-12 hours. More recently, two new options are available. A new parking lot has opened at P3, reducing the ascent by 1,575ft (480m) to 1,050ft (320m) and the total one-way distance by 2.5 miles (4km), for an estimated round-trip 7-10 hours.

We're taking the third way, a Via Ferrata course (not shown on map) that starts about 3.7 miles (6km) along lake Ringedalsvatnetn from Skjeggedal. We'll rent mountain bikes from Trolltunga Active and ride to the below the Via Ferrata, hike 850ft (260m) up to the bottom of the Via Ferrata course, then climb 820ft (250m) up the ridge near the river Endaani at right, then hike 2 miles (3km) to Trolltunga. To return, we'll follow the main trail 8.5 miles (14km) back to P2 at Skjeggedal.

Position: 60°7.98'N, 6°37.63'E

A large group will be ascending the Via Ferrata about an hour after us. We expect to be well ahead of them.

Position: 60°7.96'N, 6°37.79'E

The Trolltunga Via Ferrata course is about 3.7 miles (6km) along the shores of the lake Ringedalsvatnetn, so we've rented mountain bikes from Trolltunga Active that we can leave at the start of the course.

Position: 60°7.93'N, 6°42.91'E

A spectacularly clear and calm morning at Ringedalsvatnetn lake as we cycle to the Via Ferrata course.

Position: 60°7.85'N, 6°43.45'E

Enjoying the view to Ringedalsvatnetn lake at the drop-off point for our mountain bikes.

Position: 60°7.95'N, 6°43.98'E

From lakeside we hiked 850ft (260m) up to reach the Via Ferrata course, then donned our climbing gear.

Position: 60°7.97'N, 6°43.99'E

The Trolltunga Via Ferrata course has double cables throughout the route for extra safety. Here you can see the two lanyards clipped onto the cables, allowing us to always be connected to the cables.

Position: 60°7.98'N, 6°43.99'E

James traversing a rock face at altitude 2760 ft (841 m), with a great view to beautiful Ringedalsvatnetn lake.

Position: 60°7.98'N, 6°43.98'E

Climbing up from 2850 ft (870 m) to 3000 ft (915 m).

Position: 60°8.00'N, 6°44.01'E

Jennifer stepping across the rungs along the wall James just crossed.

Position: 60°8.00'N, 6°44.01'E

Traversing the next wall at 3050 ft (930m). The views up here are just amazing.

Position: 60°8.00'N, 6°44.01'E

The guided tour just arrived at the bottom of the Via Ferrata course. They're 800ft (250m) below us, but we can hear them talking and singing clearly.

Position: 60°8.01'N, 6°44.01'E

Reaching the top of another ladder before stepping across the cliff face.

Position: 60°8.02'N, 6°44.03'E

Jennifer climbing the ladder James just ascended.

Position: 60°8.03'N, 6°44.05'E

At 3360 ft (1024 m), we're almost at the top of the Via Ferrata course.

Position: 60°8.02'N, 6°44.09'E

Another great view to Ringedalsvatnetn lake at 3,400 ft (1036m), with a little more light than earlier.

Position: 60°8.08'N, 6°44.09'E

Cresting the top of the Via Ferrata course at 3639 ft (1109 m). We really enjoyed the climb, particularly the incredible views.

Position: 60°8.29'N, 6°44.12'E

Trolltunga Active offers sunrise and sunset trips to Trolltunga, where hikers overnight in these sturdy Arctic Dome tents filled with warm furs.

Position: 60°8.47'N, 6°44.51'E

Shortly past the tents, we joined the main trail to Trolltunga. The hike is incredibly popular despite its difficult, drawing some 80,000 per year, among the highest in Norway. At September 1st, we're off the peak season, but the trail still is quite busy. We passed dozens of hikers coming and going.

Position: 60°8.29'N, 6°45.34'E

Crossing a small footbridge across plateau lakes.

Position: 60°8.02'N, 6°45.32'E

It was easy to tell we'd reached Trolltunga by the crowds of people there.

Position: 60°7.98'N, 6°45.25'E

James standing on the tip of Trolltunga (Troll's Tongue). The striking rock formation is what brings so many people out on this challenging hike.

Position: 60°7.99'N, 6°45.27'E

Jennifer waiting for her turn for a picture on Trolltunga. In the busy season people wait in line over two hours for a photo opportunity, but we only had a couple of people in front of us being later in the season.

Position: 60°7.98'N, 6°45.25'E

A rare picture of Trolltunga with nobody on the end.

Position: 60°7.93'N, 6°45.24'E

Enjoying lunch on a cliff above Trolltunga with another great view to the lake Ringedalsvatnetn. Trolltunga is out of the picture below us to the right.

Position: 60°8.83'N, 6°40.18'E

Walking the 8.5 miles (14km) back along the main trail to Skjeggedal. The path isn't as well laid-out everywhere, but always is easy to follow. A sign every kilometer indicates how far to Trolltunga and Skjeggedal. Around 40 people are rescued annually from the trail, not because of the danger of the rock, but from getting lost in the fog, injuring themselves, or not being prepared for the difficulty of the hike.

Position: 60°8.85'N, 6°39.65'E

Taking a break and enjoying the scenery at altitude 3636 ft (1108 m), about two-thirds of the way back to Skjeggedal.

Position: 60°8.72'N, 6°37.83'E

Beautiful footbridges to cross two streams. Parking costs 500 NOK (54 USD) for the day in P2 and 600 NOK (64 USD) in P3. These payments are used to fund trail maintenance and supporting services.

Position: 60°8.28'N, 6°37.67'E

View to Ringedals Dam from the top of the switchbacks that will take us back down to Skjeggedal. The dam, made from hand-carved granite, provides the reservoir for the Tyssedal Power Station and is the largest stone dam in Norway. With a reservoir capacity of 586 trillion gallons (222 million cubic meters), it was one of the largest gravity dams in Europe when completed in 1918.

We arrived back to Skjeggedal about eight hours after we'd departed. Cycling part of the distance helped reduce the time, as did climbing straight up instead of walking, but it still is on the long side. Some people give up on the hike to Trolltunga during the 2.5 miles (4km) of switchbacks with an average 12% grade. Those lucky enough to reserve one of the 30 spots in parking lot 3 can drive up to the top of the switchbacks to begin their climb.

Position: 60°4.18'N, 6°32.66'E

Our generator has been used a lot this year and just crossed 7,000 hours. It's been running great since the cylinder head and injector replacement 265 hours back. The big service that still needs to be done is the rear main oil seal change. It was a real mess for the 2 months leading up to the cylinder head change. The rear main oil seal leaked into the generator cooling fan area which sprays it everywhere. We decided to defer the rear main seal change until the winter when we have more time.

It has since stopped leaking and hasn't leaked anything in over 100 hours. We're sure it'll be back—rear main oil seals don't "get better"—but it's wonderful to have the generator back to the sparkling clean and white and we'll happily defer the rear main oil seal change to when it starts leaking again.

Position: 60°4.17'N, 6°32.70'E

Dirona moored in beautiful Odda at the head of Sorjforden off Hardangerfjord.

Position: 60°2.67'N, 6°28.49'E

At the trailhead for the hike up to the Buerbreen, two glacial arms off the Folgefonna icefield. We'd hiked up to the west side of the icefield from Sundal, and today we'll hike up to the east side from Odda.

Position: 60°2.67'N, 6°28.24'E

Most of the trail had great views to Nedre Buerbreen, the southern of the two glacial arms. This is looking from the camp site not far from the trailhead.

Position: 60°2.67'N, 6°28.10'E

We've seen several cableways like this in Norway, with the cables strung way high up in the hills, to bring wood down from the mountains.

Position: 60°2.73'N, 6°27.24'E

Crossing a small bridge across a creek en route to brought us across the flow from a tributary.

Position: 60°2.72'N, 6°27.21'E

Lunch below steep cliffs alongside another river en route to Buerbreen.

Position: 60°2.70'N, 6°27.04'E

Another view to Nedre Buerbreen from 1518 ft (462 m) as we get closer.

Position: 60°2.68'N, 6°26.91'E

We're be hiking along the river Buerdalen, at right, that drains meltwater from the glacier into the big lake Sandvinvatnet directly south of Odda. This Beautiful suspension crosses a tributary.

Position: 60°2.60'N, 6°26.75'E

Climbing ropes at some steeper parts of the trail to Buerbreen.

Position: 60°2.56'N, 6°26.45'E

Getting closer to Nedre Buerbreen at 2248 ft (685 m). It's really a spectacular sight.

Position: 60°2.62'N, 6°26.22'E

The DNT-marked (Norwegian Trekking Association) trail ended at the base of Nedre Buerbreen, but we continued east towards the northern arm, Ovre Buerbreen. This is the view to Nedre Buerbreen en route.

Position: 60°2.58'N, 6°26.26'E

James perched on glacial-scoured cliffs between Nedre Buerbreen (left) and Ovre Buerbreen (right).

Position: 60°2.66'N, 6°25.98'E

The trail to Ovre Buerbreen was marked with faded orange blazes that we were mostly able to follow. We couldn't see much of the glacier until it suddenly burst into view as we crested a hill.

Position: 60°2.67'N, 6°25.95'E

Close-up to the fabulous ice patterns at the top of the Ovre Buerbreen glacier.

Position: 60°2.67'N, 6°25.78'E

Looking along the edge of the Ovre Buerbreen glacier. As at Fonnabu, it was super-exciting being so close to the glacier.

Position: 60°2.67'N, 6°25.78'E

Huge chunks of ice that have fallen from the Ovre Buerbreen glacier. This is a good place not to linger for long. :)

Position: 60°2.69'N, 6°25.70'E

We've now walked on both sides of the Folgefonna icefield, here and at Fonnabu. The only thing left would be to take the tourist route all the way across, but that requires ice equipment plus two overnight cabins stops.

Position: 60°2.68'N, 6°25.70'E

Clear view to the mountain ranges southeast of Odda as we begin our descent from Ovre Buerbreen glacier.

Position: 60°2.64'N, 6°27.80'E

A small portion of the cairn army alongside the river Buerdalen as we near the Buerbreen trailhead after completing another exceptional Norwegian hike.

Position: 59°51.56'N, 6°41.91'E

Passing through the 4173-ft (1272m) Seljestadtunnelen, completed in 1964, the first of many tunnels we'll drive through on a day trip along the Ryfylke Scenic Route, one of 18 National Scenic Routes.

Position: 59°48.44'N, 6°45.69'E

View down to the lake Roldalsvatnet with the town of Roldals at the end shortly after joining the Ryfylke Scenic Route.

Position: 59°45.41'N, 6°42.56'E

Snow on the mountain plateau above the lake Roldalsvatnet. Given its September, places like this are probably never snow-free.

Position: 59°43.95'N, 6°37.66'E

Small dam at the lake Svartevatnet.

Position: 59°43.81'N, 6°36.80'E

Memorial to Knut Vesthassel, who was responsible for extending the road we're on from this point all the way down to Sauda, where we'd hiked Hovlandsnuten a month ago.

Position: 59°42.61'N, 6°29.41'E

The large dam at the lake Slettedalsvatnet is a reservoir for the 48 MW Storlivatn power plant.

Position: 59°39.17'N, 6°27.98'E

One of the several buildings at Allmannajuvet, an old zinc mine that is now a museum. 12,000 tonnes of zinc were extracted here between 1881 and 1800, and the mine was a major part of Norway's zinc exports. The modern museum buildings were designed to fit into the landscape, resembling old mining structures.

Position: 59°39.22'N, 6°28.07'E

A hobbit's second breakfast below a waterfall at Allmannajuvet.

Position: 59°39.15'N, 6°28.49'E

Walking the trail along the Storelva river gorge from the Allmannajuvet museum buildings to the mine itself.

Position: 59°39.05'N, 6°28.76'E

During the season, the Allmannajuvet museum operates guided tours into the old zinc mine. Everything is already closed for the season, but we could walk into the tunnel up to the secured door into the mine.

Position: 59°39.07'N, 6°28.73'E

Modern pedestrian bridge at Allmannajuvet beneath a huge water pipe that crosses the road. We passed underneath the pipe en route to Allmannajuvet.

Position: 59°37.53'N, 6°17.52'E

A portion of the impressive 590ft (180m) Svandalsfossen waterfall that we viewed from the water in Saudafjorden.

Position: 59°36.83'N, 6°17.37'E

Passing through the 2910-ft (887m) Varstadtunnelen just south of Sauda.

Position: 59°24.81'N, 6°7.04'E

View from the road to the Sandsfjordbrua that we passed under in Dirona about a month ago when cruising Sandsfjorden.

Position: 59°24.82'N, 6°7.04'E

The view north into Sandsfjorden from the Ostasteidn rest area. Even in overcast and rainy conditions, the scenery in Norway is wonderful.

Position: 59°24.54'N, 6°7.49'E

About to enter a tunnel as we cross Sandsfjordbrua.

Position: 59°24.35'N, 6°12.13'E

The tiny islet with a single red house and boat shed at the head of Lovrajforden, that we saw a month ago on our tender trip from the anchorage at Nevoyvagen.

Position: 59°25.18'N, 6°13.18'E

We stopped for lunch at the Lovra viewpoint overlooking Lovrajforden where several picnic tables are visible at the edge beyond the trees.

Position: 59°30.47'N, 6°34.65'E

The dramatic bluff Berganuten just before the Suldalsporten tunnel.

Position: 59°30.47'N, 6°34.65'E

The bluff Javassnuten directly opposite Berganuten. The scenery is quite spectacular as the lake narrows between the two bluffs.

Position: 59°31.80'N, 6°35.76'E

Passing through the 3326ft (1014m) tunnel Ivarsflottunnelen, completed in 2004 to replace a dangerous section of 1953 road susceptible to landslides.

Position: 59°33.60'N, 6°36.07'E

At the Hylen Hydroelectric Power Station, workers were in the process of running new cables from here to way up high into the mountains behind the camera. The power plant in the background, designed by Norwegian architect Egil Sorteberg, was completed in 1981 and is being considered for listing as a heritage building.

We'd been in the area a month ago on a tender trip through the area and had wanted to go ashore then. But we couldn't find a convenient place to tie the tender that wasn't in heavy wash from the the tailrace turbulence, so returned by road.

Position: 59°37.83'N, 6°46.60'E

View towards the head of Suldalsvatnet. The 1,234 ft (376-m) lake is the 6th deepest in Norway.

Position: 59°39.20'N, 6°47.49'E

The spectacular gorge in the Brattlandsdalen valley along the 1887 tourist route from Stavanger to Odda, known as the Discovery Route. The section of road through Brattlandsdalen was considered the scenic high point of the trip. We'd caught a glimpse of the gorge on our way past, turned around to investigate, and found ourselves walking alongside the striking gorge on a section of the old 19th-century road. The stop is so wild and beautiful that we were surprised it's not highlighted on the Ryfylke Scenic Route online information.

Position: 59°39.32'N, 6°47.40'E

The Kvelven Tunnel through Brattlandsdalen was built in 1886 as a half-tunnel, with the section to the right still open. In 1920, the road was widened for automobiles and the outside tunnel wall added.

Position: 59°41.51'N, 6°45.12'E

The Flesana Waterfall, another of the highlights of the Brattlandsdalen section of the 19th-century tourist route from Stavanger to Odda.

Position: 59°43.90'N, 6°44.68'E

3546-ft (1081m) Lonanuten soaring above the lake Nedra Lonavatnet.

Position: 59°48.58'N, 6°46.35'E

Old bridge, likely from the original 19th-century tourist route, across a gorge at Innigard.

Position: 59°51.37'N, 6°52.62'E

Looking back down the switchbacks on the old road up the hill Austmannalia, now replaced by a modern road with a looping tunnel.

Position: 59°50.40'N, 7°2.80'E

Beautiful scenery, despite the overcast conditions, in the mountain pass Haukelifjell.

Position: 59°50.53'N, 7°3.37'E

The original road through the mountain pass Haukelifjell was opened in 1886. Portions of the route later were replaced with the 3.531-mile (5682 m) Haukeli Tunnel, the longest tunnel in Norway when it opened in 1968. We had wanted to experience the tunnel, but it was closed for maintenance, so we instead got to see more of the mountain scenery on a detour along the old road.

Position: 59°50.53'N, 7°3.37'E

Part of the Haukeli Tunnel, viewed along the detour route.

Position: 59°49.47'N, 7°11.44'E

Views across the mountain plateau lakes at Haukeliseter, our turning around point for the road trip.

Position: 59°49.47'N, 7°11.44'E

Rescue helicopter at Haukeliseter. We've seen a few flying in the skies above us as we've been out hiking.

Position: 59°50.76'N, 7°3.52'E

Following the one-way traffic along the switchbacks on the old road while we detour around the Haukeli Tunnel.

Position: 59°50.97'N, 6°56.83'E

Passing through the 3454-ft (1053) 1968 Svandalsflona tunnel, completed in 1968.

Position: 59°48.69'N, 6°45.90'E

The 1,558 () 475m) Horda Tunnel spiral tunnel, completed in 1988, turns in almost a complete circle on a continuous 7% grade.

Position: 59°49.39'N, 6°44.24'E

The 3-mile (4.7km) Roldal Tunnel was completed in 1964 and was the longest tunnel in Norway until the Haukeli Tunnel was completed four years later. The Roldal Tunnel now doesn't even rate in the top ten longest of the over 900 tunnels in Norway, the longest being the 15.23 mi (24.51km) Laerdal Tunnel between Bergen and Oslo, also the longest road tunnel in the world.

Position: 60°4.18'N, 6°32.66'E

Back in beautiful Odda after a most successful road trip along the Ryfylke Scenic Route.

Position: 60°4.18'N, 6°32.66'E

Sondre Haukedal, a reporter for the local newspaper Hardanger Folkeblad, saw Dirona moored in Odda and came by this morning to interview us. We enjoyed meeting him and talking about our trip and what brought us to the area.

Position: 60°4.18'N, 6°32.66'E

Returning with a load of groceries from a nearby store in Odda. The store was so close it was easier to just bring their cart to the boat and walk it back, rather than get out our folding cart.

Position: 60°7.06'N, 6°32.91'E

The Tyssedal Power Station lights reflecting into still waters as we pass by on a 5:00am departure from Odda. We had a fabulous week in Odda, and really enjoyed all the hikes and the road trips.

Position: 60°26.48'N, 6°45.72'E

Making chocolate chip muffins for breakfast while underway from Odda.

Position: 60°28.08'N, 6°49.01'E

About to pass under the tunnel-to-tunnel Hardanger Bridge, that we've driven across several times, en route to Eidfjorden from Odda.

Position: 60°28.98'N, 6°56.68'E

The river Rotagjelet, one of many waterfalls flowing down the cliffs along dramatic Eidfjorden.

Position: 60°29.02'N, 6°59.42'E

The town of Erdal at the mouth of the river Erdalselva on the south side of Eidfjorden.

Position: 60°29.01'N, 7°0.04'E

Underway in Eidfjorden, spectacular even in overcast conditions.

Position: 60°28.98'N, 7°2.59'E

It's only early September, but already a light dusting of snow has fallen on the peak of 5318-ft (1621m) mountain Onen. The snow looks beautiful.

Position: 60°28.98'N, 7°3.24'E

Typhoon Haishen is approaching the Korean Peninsula today, with an incredible low pressure center of 935mb. The system was the first super typhoon (winds of 100 knots) of the 2020 season. The storm is weakening, and this is actually higher than the astounding lowest pressure of 920mb reached yesterday. Haishen made landfall on September 6th as a strong category 2-equivalent typhoon (winds of between 83 and 95 knots), inflicting over $100 million USD in damage.

Position: 60°29.69'N, 7°7.65'E

The rivers Neselvi (left) and Aselvi, flowing down 4,000ft (1200m) cliffs along the north shore of Simadalsfjorden, a branch of Eidfjorden.

Position: 60°29.90'N, 7°8.09'E

The dramatic Sima Valley at the head of Simadalsfjorden, with the 500MW Sima Hydroelectric Power Station in the foreground.

Position: 60°29.96'N, 7°8.01'E

The boardwalks visible along the base of these cliffs at the head of Simadalsfjorden are part of the trail to the famous Kjeasen mountain farms. Described as the "world's most inaccessible farm," Kjeasen sits 2,000ft (600m) above the fjord and could only be reached on foot until 1974. The original trail, now maintained by the Norwegian Trekking Association, takes 1.5 hours one way and is rated "extra demanding".

The area has been occupied since the 1650s and all material had to be carried up on the resident's backs. Kjeasen isn't unusual in Norway though, the country is full of such difficult-to-reach farms, the people drawn by the abundant natural resources and rich planting soil. The children who lived at the Kjeasen at one point numbered 13, and in the summer daily walked the trail to school at Simadal and back. In the winter, the trail was too dangerous, so they lived with relatives in Simadal.

We'd love to visit the farm, but with the rainfall of the past couple of days, the trail will be awfully muddy and slippery.

Position: 60°29.35'N, 7°5.64'E

We got a few boat project done while at anchor in Simadalsfjorden on a rainy day. Here James is tightening up the rotation screw adjustment on our helm seat. On Stidd seats, the rotation control is a hand screw and the hand screw range is set by adjusting a hex machine screw on the other side. Over time, ours has loosened off so the hand screw no longer is effective. We tighten the machine screw with Loctite to correct this, a fix that will last for several years.

Position: 60°29.35'N, 7°5.65'E

Changing the primary fuel filter on the main engine. We change these filters annually or when the filter vacuum exceeds 5" Hg, with the latter just about always being the limit. We could use 7.5" Hg—that is a perfectly acceptable vacuum for our engine—but we prefer to change them on the early side.

The filter change intervals vary a lot depending upon fuel quality. The fastest we have changed these filters is 29 hours and the longest we have run them was 1,658 hours, with the average in the 400 hour range. The filter is black from accumulated ashpaltanes in the tank after 10 years of use, but it's not yet at a point where filter change intervals are negatively impacted.

Position: 60°29.36'N, 7°5.67'E

The latch in one of our galley drawers failed and we replaced it with a spare.

Position: 60°29.36'N, 7°5.67'E

On our previous trip to Norway, we frequently saw eco-adventure boats out doing tours. With the pandemic and travel restrictions, this might be the second one we've seen in six weeks.

Position: 60°29.35'N, 7°5.63'E

The generator rear main oil seal was leaking badly for the couple of hundred hours prior to replacing the cylinder head (failed #3 exhaust valve). Prior to changing the cylinder head, we dramatically improved the leak by venting the crankcase to atmospheric pressure. With that change the engine still leaked oil but rather than spraying out onto the floor and the adjoining wing engine if the cover was removed while the generator was running, it would just leak to the oil diapers below. Not great but tolerable. In The Case of the Missing Oil Leak we explain why the oil leak stopped entirely when we replaced the cylinder head and changed the oil.

It's now been 285 operating hours since the cylinder head replacement and the engine still is not leaking. We expect the leak will eventually return but, for now, we're enjoying the nice clean engine. Today we made the neutral crankcase ventilation system a bit nicer than a shop rag hosed clamped over the oil filter hole. Here you can see we have drilled a hole in the oil filter caps, taped the hole, installed a hose barge, and vented that into an oil catch bottle below. It's a cleaner configuration and the only service it needs is to drain the bottle every year or so.

Position: 60°29.36'N, 7°5.63'E

The package of fresh salmon we'd purchased at Odda has a tell-tale thermometer to reveal if the package ever got too warm.

Position: 60°29.35'N, 7°5.64'E

Happy hour in the cockpit at Simadalsfjorden with a view to the Smorblindo waterfall.

Position: 60°29.35'N, 7°5.64'E

Our spectacular anchorage at the base of 3963ft (1208m) Hotlenuten in Simadalsfjorden beside the Smorblindo waterfall.

Position: 60°29.34'N, 7°5.62'E

We took apart failed main engine alternator and found the brushes were worn out, but the rotor is showing continuity with no shorts. The alternator appears to only need brushes and otherwise is fine.

Position: 60°29.34'N, 7°5.62'E

A view from our anchorage to the spectacular Sima Valley at the head of Simadalsfjorden.

Position: 60°29.77'N, 7°0.58'E

The waterfall from the river Skorselva along the north shore of Eidfjorden as we are underway from Simadalsfjorden.

Position: 60°29.99'N, 6°59.26'E

The Ologselva river descending between 2,000-ft cliffs in Eidfjorden. Literally dozens of waterfalls flow here after heavy rains.

Position: 60°33.12'N, 6°55.06'E

Approaching the town of Ulvik at the head of Ulvikjforden in ultra-calm conditions. We plan to to anchor off the town for a night or two.

Position: 60°34.13'N, 6°56.14'E

Norway seems to have a very strong connection to Seattle. We often meet people here who have family in the area or who have visited. Today a visitor came by to say hello who was actually from Seattle and had lived in Norway for the past few years.

Position: 60°34.13'N, 6°56.15'E

Performing the twice-yearly lubrication of the bow roller. The grease fittings we added while in Auckland have been super-convenient.

Position: 60°34.13'N, 6°56.14'E

Changing the furnace fuel filter. We've been in cold climates so the furnace has had lots of use, but the filter is in pretty good shape.

Position: 60°34.12'N, 6°56.12'E

The lights of Ulvik reflecting into calm waters at dusk, viewed from the anchorage at Ulvikfjorden.

Position: 60°34.12'N, 6°56.13'E

Spitfire watching intently as a flock of sparrows swoop on and off "his" bow railings.

Position: 60°33.84'N, 6°59.01'E

Balaifossen on the east side of Osafjorden has a drop of more than 2,600 ft (800m), making it one of the highest waterfalls in Norway.

Position: 60°34.75'N, 7°1.20'E

A door into a mountain face seems a little unusual, but it connects to a road tunnel behind.

Position: 60°32.42'N, 6°57.92'E

The river Dogro gushing down the cliff behind a small cabin along the east side of Osafjorden.

Position: 60°28.65'N, 6°50.24'E

Passing back under the Hardanger Bridge in similarly overcast conditions as our northbound run a few days ago.

Position: 60°26.03'N, 6°42.67'E

The river Tveismeelvi and other waterfalls flowing down into the dramatic Tveisme Valley just south of the Hardnager Bridge.

Position: 60°25.88'N, 6°42.36'E

The light on the poing Slattenes at the intersection of Sorfjorden and Eidfjorden.

Position: 60°25.63'N, 6°40.90'E

Sondre Haukedal's interview with us at Odda was published in the local newspaper Hardanger Folkeblad today (Norwegian only).

Position: 60°28.37'N, 6°38.32'E

The ferry departing Kvanndal under a cliff striped with waterfalls. This is where we boarded the ferry Utnefjord for Utne a few days ago en route to Odda after visiting Vorringfossen.

Position: 60°25.37'N, 6°26.28'E

Metal smelter Elkem Bjolvefossen along the north side of Hardangerfjord. The plant went into production in 1918 using power from the purpose-built 98 WM Bjolvo power plant. Initially calcium carbide was produced, but later an electric smelter was added to produce ferrosilicon and ferroalloys.

Position: 60°24.84'N, 6°24.89'E

We're not sure the purpose of this cement chute, with a square opening near the bottom, along the north shore of Hardangerfjord.

Position: 60°23.35'N, 6°17.14'E

Approaching Fyksesund, a branch of Hardangerfjord, where we'll anchor near the bridge for a couple of nights. The fish farm in the foreground is the Hardanger Akvasenter, an operational fish farm and display facility. We're scheduled to tour it this week.

Position: 60°23.87'N, 6°15.71'E

The watermaker has recently developed a massive inrush current problem on startup, sometimes drawing way more than 8KW. This usually trips the 20A breaker, but sometimes the high-current inrush is sufficiently brief that the breaker stays engaged and the watermaker then runs properly at normal current draws. The possibilities are a seized pump, a failing motor, or the watermaker has some internal problem that dead-heads the pressure output on startup.

Before investigating, we ran the system to fill the tanks since we know it may not restart after service. On investigating, we found the high pressure pump oil (pictured) is at the correct level and clear, without discoloration or metallic impurities. The pump is very likely not the problem, leaving a seized motor or some internal system problem causing pressure dead-heading. The latter is not very likely and sometimes the motor starts with only 11A and other times it draws more than 38A. It's very likely a failing motor but, for now, we have full water tanks and the watermaker will still work if tried multiple times.

Position: 60°23.85'N, 6°15.76'E

The single-lane Fyksesund Bridge, opened in 1937, viewed from our anchorage in Fykesund. When completed, it was the longest suspension bridge in Europe and still is the longest "soft suspension bridge" in Norway. This method, common in Norway and pioneered by Norwegian engineer Olaf Stang, uses more flexible and economical rolled steel support beams rather than steel trusses. The bridge suffered aerodynamic-related structural problems but these were corrected in 1945.

Position: 60°23.85'N, 6°15.74'E

The fridge light switch was sticking and we applied some contact cleaner that fixed the problem. The switch mechanism has a rough spot in it that suggests it will probably need replacing.

Position: 60°23.85'N, 6°15.74'E

We've used up the first of our four UK propane tanks since departing Stornoway and here are switching over to the second. At our current rate of consumption, we have another nine months before we're out.

Position: 60°23.84'N, 6°15.76'E

View to our anchorage at Fyksesund beneath the Fyksesund Bridge.

Position: 60°23.68'N, 6°16.39'E

We've seen a lot of fish farms in Norway, but have never set foot on one. So when we learned about the Hardanger Akvasenter, a working fish farm that is open for tours, we contacted them to find out if we could arrange a private tour and visit in our tender. The answer was an enthusiastic yes, and Solveig K. Botnen arranged to meet us there. Here she is providing background on the industry and explaining the technology used in the farms before taking us on a tour of the pens. Solveig did a great job and we really enjoyed our tour of the farm and learning more about the industry.

Position: 60°23.68'N, 6°16.41'E

The Hardanger Akvasenter is a small farm by Norwegian standards, but uses much of the same modern technology. The feeder in the center uses forced air to distribute pellets into the pen from the white pipe leading in from the left. Workers monitor the pens using underwater cameras and stop feeding if the fish aren't eating, reducing water pollution and food costs due to wasted food.

Visible in the right of the photo is a roller system with a black net looped over and below it. In the past, farms used divers to clean and mend the pen nets, but a more modern solution is to have two nets and use rollers to transfer the old net out of the pen for maintenance and at the same time install the replacement net.

Position: 60°24.83'N, 6°14.85'E

Waterfall from the river Tussagjelet flowing into Fyksesund.

Position: 60°25.88'N, 6°13.57'E

Enjoying the many waterfalls in beautiful Fyksesund in warmth and comfort. The temperature is about 54°F (12°C) but it can get quite cold at speed in the tender. We're wearing our Mustang 2175s, which are standard issue with the Coast Guard on both sides of the Canada-US border. We can toss these on over light clothing, add a pair of gloves and perhaps a hat, and be instantly warm in the coldest weather.

Position: 60°27.25'N, 6°13.44'E

The Fossabekken spilling down 3,000ft into Fyksesund.

Position: 60°28.20'N, 6°12.89'E

The guest harbour in Botnen at the head of Fyksesund, one of the few fjords we've visited with no road access to the head.

Position: 60°28.10'N, 6°12.63'E

Fyksesund is just full of waterfalls, particularly after several days of rain. Here we are looking up from the base of the river Kaldrassen.

Position: 60°21.96'N, 6°13.04'E

A classic wooden sailboat underway off Oystese as we motor from Fyksesund to Norheimsund.

Position: 60°22.13'N, 6°9.24'E

Lone and Anders Tang with their Nordhavn 40 Bo-Bo at Norheimsund. Two Nordhavns at Norheimsund has got to be pretty rare, if not a first.

Lone and Anders gave us helpful advice when we were cruising their home country of Denmark last year, and we've been following them through Hardangerfjord since first seeing Bo-Bo at Ullensvang two weeks ago. We finally caught up with them today and really enjoyed meeting them in person.

Position: 60°22.35'N, 6°8.80'E

Our tender moored at Norheimsund for a walk to nearby Steinsdalsfossen.

Position: 60°22.37'N, 6°8.65'E

1909 bridge at Norheimsund over the outflow from the lake Movatnet.

Position: 60°22.29'N, 6°8.17'E

Waterfall spilling down cliffs along the north shore of the lake Movatnet as we walk to Steinsdalsfossen.

Position: 60°22.23'N, 6°7.83'E

The playful Hardanger Motorcycle Club logo on their clubhouse along lake Movatnet.

Position: 60°22.20'N, 6°6.40'E

We liked our new hiking pants so much that we bought a second pair. Jennifer found some in her favourite color, pink.

Position: 60°22.20'N, 6°6.33'E

Spectacular Steinsdalsfossen gushing 50m over a cliff at the west end of the lake Movatnet.

Position: 60°22.25'N, 6°6.17'E

Steinsdalsfossen is one of the most popular waterfalls in Norway because you can walk behind it and out to the other side.

Position: 60°22.31'N, 6°6.43'E

A classic Lincoln Continental parked in a garage along the north shore of the lake Movatnet as we return back to Norheimsund.

Position: 60°22.38'N, 6°6.77'E

Nothing runs like a Deere. With a super-reliable Deere main engine on Dirona, we always love seeing a Deere in the wild.

Position: 60°22.52'N, 6°7.40'E

Another Deere sighting along the north side of the lake Movatnet. The grass must be good here. :)

Position: 60°22.45'N, 6°8.62'E

View west from the east end of Movatnet, with Steinsdalsfossen just visible at the far end on the right and the cliff waterfall partway along (click image for a larger view).

Position: 60°22.13'N, 6°9.25'E

Dusk viewed from the anchorage at Norheimsund (clockwise from top left: forward, aft, starboard and port).