MV Dirona travel digest for Ryfylkefjordane 2020

Position: 58°31.65'N, -5°9.34'W

The 213-ft (65 m) sea stack Am Bhuachaille off the Rubh' a Bhuachaille headland. Ascent of the stack is rated "Hard Very Severe", the second most difficult category. The few that have climbed the stack needed to make a 100-ft (30m) swim at low tide to access it.

Position: 58°37.88'N, -5°1.79'W

Cape Wrath shrouded in fog and mist, with the lighthouse completely invisible in the clouds at top right. The headland is known for heavy seas that can develop quickly due to the strong currents that meet here and the exposed location. We're rounding in near calm conditions, and there's hardly even any swell.

Position: 58°38.86'N, -4°54.40'W

Wonderfully calm seas as we cruise through the North Sea en route to the Orkney Islands.

Position: 58°42.06'N, -3°29.27'W

The Dunnet Head Lighthouse, high on the cliff. The light was built in 1831 by Robert Stevenson, grandfather of Robert Louis Stevenson, and was automated in 1989.

Position: 58°42.08'N, -3°28.88'W

Buoys marking fishing gear aren't as prevalent here as in some areas of the world, line in Maine, USA, but they are frequent in the area and we need to keep a watch for them. Fortunately the fishers almost universally use bright orange scotsman buoys, so they are easy to see.

Position: 58°42.25'N, -3°22.47'W

A view to the southwestern tip of the Isle of Hoy in the Orkney Islands.

Position: 58°42.57'N, -3°11.54'W

The only pleasure craft we've seen underway today. The exposed North Sea run around Cape Wrath to the Orkney Islands in not a popular one for recreational boaters.

Position: 58°42.69'N, -3°8.79'W

Lighthouse on the Isle of Stroma as we pass through the Pentland Firth. The area is known for some of the strongest and unpredictable tides in the UK, with currents reaching 16 knots. Conditions here can be extremely dangerous for craft of all size when strong winds oppose the current. The navigation charts warn that laden tankers should not transit in restricted visibility or adverse weather due to the dangers here.

Position: 58°42.70'N, -3°6.05'W

We entered Pentland Firth at turn to flood (eastbound) on a small exchange. But even the relatively minor current build is making it difficult for our autopilot to track to our plotted route (known as nav mode). The blue line of our plotted route and the red line of our actual track are near identical until we entered the area, but now are diverging strongly.

Position: 58°42.72'N, -3°5.80'W

The islet Sooth Clett off the southeast shore of Swona to our north.

Position: 58°43.07'N, -2°59.50'W

Pentland Skerries Lighthouse to our south. The light was built in 1794 by Thomas Smith and his stepson, the famed lighthouse designer Robert Stevenson, grandfather of author Robert Louis Stevenson.

Position: 58°43.09'N, -2°58.99'W

A major backeddy, known as the Liddel Eddy, forms off the tip of South Ronaldsay at turn to flood and eventually extends nearly all the way across to Muckle Skerry. Dangerous conditions can develop in strong current when the backeddy meets the opposing flood current. Even in today's relatively light exchange, the backeddy is pushing us off course and the autopilot is compensating by steering towards shore to keep us on track. You can see how strong the eddy is, in that we're travelling roughly 45° to the heading of the boat.

Position: 58°43.20'N, -2°57.98'W

We're through the tidal races in the Pentland Firth and now are riding a 1-knot positive current into the North Sea.

Position: 58°44.57'N, -2°35.02'W

When we departed Loch A' Chadh-Fi this morning, our plan was to cruise the Orkney and Shetland Islands. But we just learned that we are eligible to enter Norway under the new COVID-19 rules that went in place today. Given the current world situation, Norway is number one on our list of desired destinations with its excellent hiking and abundance of sheltered anchorages.

The weather looked ideal for a North Sea crossing, so we plotted a course for Stavanger, Norway and continued east instead of turning north. Here we are lowering our UK courtesy flag as we depart British waters.

It's an unusual day when you get up in the morning to start a short regional cruise, and end up making a 2.5-day crossing of the North Sea to an entirely different country.

Position: 58°56.97'N, 1°11.30'E

The first of many North Sea oil rigs that we'll pass en route to Norway. The oil fields extend in a north-south line roughly midway between Scotland and Norway.

Position: 58°56.97'N, 1°11.30'E

Wonderfully calm seas as we cross the North Sea. We don't expect the winds to reach much over ten knots the whole way to Stavanger.

Position: 58°57.12'N, 1°16.02'E

The chart is full of rigs and pipelines snaking away to Scotland and Norway as we pass through the North Sea oil fields.

Position: 58°57.33'N, 1°33.21'E

The Scottish-owned East Brae platform came online in 1993 with a production capacity of 120,000 barrels of oil and 17.6 million standard cubic meters of gas per day. It stands in a depth of 380ft (116m) with a topsides weight of 20,000 tons. The platform is scheduled for decommissioning at the end of 2021.

Position: 58°57.47'N, 2°7.88'E

The Norwegian-owned semi-submersible rig Leiv Eiriksson entered service in 2001. The platform is designed to operate in waters depths up to 7,500ft and can drill to 25,000ft.

Position: 58°57.47'N, 2°7.88'E

The 298-ft (91m) offshore supply vessel Stril Mar standing off the rig Leiv Eiriksson.

Position: 58°57.45'N, 2°8.84'E

As we change countries, one of our cell phone providers sends us a text message with the roaming costs in the new country. This time we received one far out to sea, letting us know that if we roamed now we'd be on satellite at a cost of 6,150 euros per gig. We'd didn't realize you could even roam via satellite through a standard cellular plan. We are on a prepaid plan, so don't have to worry about such charges, but the bill could get very expensive very fast if you were on a monthly plan and didn't realize you were incurring satellite roaming charges.

Update 07/21/2020: Blog reader Alec Peterson suggested we likely were picking up a marine cellular base with satellite back haul from one of the nearby oil rigs. That makes perfect sense.

Position: 58°57.45'N, 2°9.08'E

The Maersk Integrator jackup-up rig in the Ivar Aasen oil field was completed in 2015. The platform has a maximum water depth of 492ft (150 m) and a maximum drilling depth of 40,000ft (12,200 m).

Position: 58°57.44'N, 2°10.25'E

We've seen a a surprising variety of different oil rig designs as we've crossed the North Sea oil fields. These two in the Ivar Aasen oil field are of similar design, but they're both owned by Det Norske.

Position: 58°58.20'N, 2°28.86'E

The Johan Sverdrup field is the third largest in the North Sea with an estimated 2.7 billion barrels of oil. Phase 1 of the massive, interconnected drilling complex went into production in 2019 with a second phase planned for the end of 2022. Total production with both phases in operation is expected to reach 660,000 barrels per day, or about 30% of all Norwegian oil production.

Position: 59°1.70'N, 5°37.47'E

We're back in the land of the X-Bow as we near Stavanger. The Ulstein X-Bow inverted bow design improves handling and fuel economy in rough seas. Since the 2006 launch of the first X-Bow vessel, the Norwegian anchor handling tug supply vessel (AHTS) Bourbon Orca, over 100 ships have been sold. The design is particularly popular in Norway with its extensive North Sea oil platforms.

Position: 59°0.61'N, 5°40.00'E

The Sleipnir, owned by Dutch company Heerema Offshore Services, is the world's largest semi-submersible crane vessel. The self-propelled platform is 220m long by 102m wide can, reach speeds of 10 knots, and has accommodation for 400 employees. Its two cranes each have a lifting capacity of 10,000 mT each at a working radius of 48m.

In September of 2019, the vessel performed the world's the largest lift by a crane vessel of 15,300 tonnes when it installed the topsides for the Leviathan development in the Mediterranean. On July 16th of this year, the Sleipnir set a record for the largest single lift removal of a steel jacket (a fixed oil platform made of tubular steel) when it remove the 8,929-ton (8,100-metric ton) Jotun-B platform jacket from the North Sea and transported it to Nedre Vats, Norway for decommissioning and recycling. Excellent photos of the operation are at Sleipnir sets record with North Sea Jotun jacket lift.

Position: 58°58.47'N, 5°43.99'E

At the Boreviga marina in Stavanger with a yellow 'Q' flag flying to indicate we require clearance into the country. The last time we entered Norway we didn't require any formal clearance because we were already stamped into the Schengen Area in the Netherlands. This year we require immigration clearance because are coming from the UK, which is not part of the Schengen area, plus new COVID-19 entry requirements need to be checked on arrival. Until July 15th of this year, two days ago, we weren't even eligible to enter Norway. But new rules allow entry to those who have lived for the past six months in an EEA/Schengen country.

Position: 58°58.47'N, 5°44.00'E

In Norway, the Politi (police) handles most immigration clearance. We'd been in contact with the Politi before leaving Scotland, so they were expecting us, and two officers arrived a couple of hours after we landed to clear us through. As an EU citizen, Jennifer's passport is not stamped, but James does require one to document his entry into the Schengen Area.

Position: 58°58.48'N, 5°44.08'E

View back to the marina Boreviga as we depart after clearing through. Mid-July is pretty much the height of the Norwegian vacation season and with fewer Norwegians traveling abroad this year, the marinas are particularly full. Both the Boreviga marina pictured, and the Vagan marina where we stayed on our previous stop in Stavanger, were jam-packed. Any space that opened up in Boreviga for the few hours we were there was immediately filled by an arriving vessel. We contacted the port and they gave us permission to moor on the wall perpendicular to the large white power boat at the right while we cleared through.

Position: 58°58.48'N, 5°44.08'E

View to the Norwegian Oil Museum adjacent to the Boreviga marina. The excellent museum details the history and technology behind Norway’s growth as an oil nation through models, interactive displays and actual industry equipment. We spent most of a day there on our previous stop in Stavanger.

Position: 58°58.45'N, 5°44.19'E

The Rygerdronningen is one of several tour boats that take visitors on day cruises of nearby Lysefjord, among Norway's major tourist draws.

Position: 58°58.42'N, 5°44.47'E

The ferry Fjordlys passing close behind us as we clear the ferry dock.

Position: 58°58.42'N, 5°44.68'E

Following the ferry Fjordlys under the Stavanger City Bridge. When completed in 1978, it was one of the first larger cable-stayed bridges in the country. It's wonderful to be cleared into Norway with several months of cruising ahead of us.

Position: 59°1.23'N, 5°43.57'E

View to the 157-foot (48 m) beam of the crude oil tanker Eagle Balder. When delivered in December, 2019 the Eagle Balder and sistership Eagle Blane were among the first LNG Dual-Fuel Dynamic Positioning Shuttle Tankers (DPSTs) and the most energy efficient. The ships emit 40-48% less carbon than equivalent vessels built in 2008 and also emit 85% less SOx, 98% less NOx, 98% less particulate matter and 93% less black carbon particulates than DPSTs burning conventional fuel.

Position: 59°1.23'N, 5°43.57'E

The Eagle Balder has a latest generation bow-loading system, standard equipment for North Sea Dynamic Positioning Shuttle Tankers (DPSTs).

Position: 59°1.29'N, 5°43.35'E

A view to the other side of the massive record-setting semi-submersible crane vessel Sleipnir that we passed en router to Stavanger.

Position: 59°5.02'N, 5°34.32'E

One of the thousands of Norwegian lighthouses that mark the coast.

Position: 59°10.32'N, 5°25.92'E

James installing the snubber after we dropped anchor at the south end of Vestre Bokn. Normally Jennifer handles this, but she was fast asleep. We run an unusual watch schedule where James has the helm from 5am to 10pm and Jennifer has the helm from 10pm to 5am, sleeping from 6pm to 10pm and from 5am until whenever she wakes up. Because we arrived into Stavanger shortly after 5am, Jennifer had only 4 hours sleep in the past 30 hours. So once we cleared the outskirts of Stavanger, Jennifer went to bed and slept so soundly she didn't even hear the anchor going down.

Position: 59°10.33'N, 5°25.94'E

Happy hour in the cockpit at Vestre Bokn. We're really excited to be back in Norway, particularly since we couldn't even enter the country until two days ago when Norwegian COVID-19 entry restrictions eased. We are looking forward to some great cruising with many view hikes and beautiful anchorages.

Position: 59°10.48'N, 5°23.81'E

One of Spitfire's many favourite spots is the paper garbage basket in the salon. The basket sits adjacent to the diesel heater outflow and fills with warm air when we're running the furnace.

Position: 59°10.48'N, 5°23.82'E

After replacing the cylinder head, it's wonderful to see that generator able to hold the load at 40 amps and beyond.

Position: 59°10.46'N, 5°23.82'E

Early-morning view to the island of Josen as we depart the anchorage. We'd moved from Vestre Bokn yesterday for a change of scenery. Our plan in cruising Norway this time is to move the boat most days, but not necessarily very long distances. Yesterday's "cruise" was only 1.8 miles.

Position: 59°10.19'N, 5°29.41'E

The ferry Stavangerfjord on the dock at Arsvagen on Vestre Bokn with the Boknafjord departing for Mortavika on Nordre Rennesoy. From there, it's a half-hour drive to Stavanger. When launched in 2011, the 426-ft (129.9m) Boknafjord was the largest LPG-powered ferry in the world.

Position: 59°12.31'N, 5°34.04'E

The Karsto refinery to our north is connected via pipeline to about 30 oil and gas fields and is the largest of its kind in Europe.

Position: 59°19.43'N, 5°48.06'E

A view to the trail we'll be taking to Himakana as we approach the anchorage at Hindaravagen.

Position: 59°20.74'N, 5°48.26'E

View of the anchorage at Hindaravagen (clockwise from top left corner is the view forward, aft, starboard, and port). The bay is exposed to the south, but we're expecting only light winds from the north while we are here.

Position: 59°20.75'N, 5°48.27'E

... a warm engine room. Spitfire loves basking in the warm engine room once we've stopped after completing a trip.

Position: 59°20.71'N, 5°48.26'E

Moored at Hindaravagen below Himakana where we'll hike today.

Position: 59°20.81'N, 5°48.07'E

The tender moored at Hindaravag for our hike. Amazingly, this is our first time out in the tender for eight months. The last time was on October 31st when we visited Naarden in the Netherlands the before returning to Amsterdam.

Position: 59°20.81'N, 5°48.08'E

Jennifer considering upgrading the anchor rode on Dirona.

Position: 59°20.90'N, 5°48.73'E

At the Himakana trailhead for our first hike of the year. Given we're more than halfway through 2020, that is most unusual for us.

Position: 59°21.23'N, 5°48.78'E

The view at altitude 628 ft (191 m) along the Himakana trail looking southeast over a large farm to Nedstrandsfjorden.

Position: 59°21.48'N, 5°49.15'E

It's hard to get lost on a trail in Norway. Despite the trail being well-worn and easy to follow, three red trail marks are visible in this picture.

Position: 59°21.49'N, 5°49.11'E

Jennifer loves boardwalks. Here we are passing through a boggy section along the Himakana trail.

Position: 59°21.49'N, 5°48.71'E

Himakana is a popular hike and several dozen people were already at the top taking in the spectacular scenery and rock formations.

Position: 59°21.52'N, 5°48.67'E

We found a nice secluded spot at Himakana with a great view for our first picnic lunch of the year. Dirona is visible at anchor in Hindaravagen 1170 ft (356 m) below us, slightly right of center.

Position: 59°21.49'N, 5°48.69'E

Himakana is known as "Little Trolltunga" due to its similarities with the famous Norwegian rock formation that juts out horizontally 3,600 ft (1,100 m) above sea level. The hike to Himakana is much more accessible at only 2.1km one-way to 1,170 ft (356 m) above sea level, whereas the hike to Trolltunga is 14.5km to an altitude of 4,020 ft (1,224m).

Position: 59°21.46'N, 5°49.27'E

The trail to Himakana is beautifully built, but so steep that we were almost sliding in places as we descended.

Position: 59°21.27'N, 5°48.85'E

We first saw this woman from the front, with her backpack not visible, and were a little surprised at the loud slobbering and grunting sounds she was making.

Position: 59°20.95'N, 5°47.99'E

The parking lot for Himakana was half-empty when we passed on our way up, but nearly full when returned back down.

Position: 59°20.75'N, 5°48.29'E

View to Himakana from the anchorage. The rock formations we hiked to are visible roughly at center in the top third of the picture. For our first hike of the year, it was a real winner.

Position: 59°22.65'N, 5°54.35'E

Sheer cliff at Frovika as we head north into Vindafjorden.

Position: 59°26.55'N, 5°52.80'E

Low cloud looking north into Sandeidfjorden at the intersection with Vindafjorden and Yrkefjorden. We've loving being back in the Norwegian fjords.

Position: 59°28.66'N, 5°51.85'E

Waterfall tumbling down the cliff at Elvaneset.

Position: 59°29.00'N, 5°51.06'E

A wonderful setting for a cabin, with a bridge to their boathouse over the waterfall we just spotted. The shoreline is steep here and we can bring Dirona quite close to shore.

Position: 59°30.25'N, 5°50.45'E

Spitfire enjoying the fjord cruise from the cockpit and licking his chops after a meal.

Position: 59°31.22'N, 5°48.91'E

As we turned the corner into Ilsvag, this spectacular scene opened up.

Position: 59°31.12'N, 5°48.77'E

Dirona at anchor in Ilsvag. We're thinking our "move the boat every day" plan is going to fail here. :)

Position: 59°31.12'N, 5°48.76'E

The hills around Ilsvag reflecting into still waters with Dirona visible at center. What a beautiful place.

Position: 59°31.12'N, 5°48.76'E

The base station for our boat remote control is held up with an industrial Velcro strip. The adhesive failed, so James is installing it with fasteners.

Position: 59°31.13'N, 5°48.77'E

Two of our HVAC systems failed recently, and we've been working through various troubleshooting steps. Here we have detached the outflow line from the master stateroom system and installed a short length of hose in order to pull any potential air out of the line. The system is below the waterline, so we have to be careful to keep that hose raised above the water level where James is pointing to.

Position: 59°31.13'N, 5°48.77'E

Vacuuming the HVAC outflow line to remove any air and get the system working again. We did pull some air, but unfortunately the system still doesn't heat or cool.

Position: 59°31.12'N, 5°48.75'E

Early morning view of the anchorage at Ilsvag (clockwise from top left corner is the view forward, aft, starboard, and port).

Position: 59°31.13'N, 5°48.75'E

The morning is clear and calm at Ilsvag, but we've got rain coming.

Position: 59°31.11'N, 5°48.74'E

The weather in Norway changes quickly. The morning's sunny weather gave way to heavy rain.

Position: 59°31.14'N, 5°48.75'E

In our continued troubleshooting of our failing HVAC systems, we tried replacing the control board for the master stateroom unit. Given the symptoms, this is highly unlikely to improve the situation, but we decided to give it a try.

Position: 59°31.14'N, 5°48.77'E

We don't have air conditioning pressure gauges, but as a quick test on whether the system is still able to maintain a charge, James just touched the valve to see if there was pressure. There was pressure and there is no oil or evidence of leaks anywhere on the system, so refrigerant charge isn't the likely cause of the problem. It's still possible but less likely.

Our conclusion is that the reversing valve on both units have stuck in the middle allowing the compressor to pump into the reversing valve straight back to the compressor.

The reversing valve is switched positively from end to end by pressure differential in the system. Since the compressor is producing very little flow and there is almost no temperature differential between the low and high pressure sides, it's likely not producing much pressure differential making it more likely that the reversing valve won't switch positively in either direction. It's also possible that the reversing valve failed and the compressor or valves were damaged by the compressor output being connected directly to the input on the compressor.

But, whatever the cause, the system needs a new valve, a new compressor, and a recharge. Since these are eleven year old units, we'll replace them. But we'll need to ship them from the US since they are 60hz systems.

Position: 59°31.13'N, 5°48.76'E

One of the residents from the area came over to say hello. He lives on his parent's farm nearby, but frequently visits with his grandparents who live at Ilsvag. The Hasle Summer Fun boat he's driving is amazingly popular in Norway. We've seen dozens so far, in a range of bright colors. They look quite durable and stable.

Position: 59°31.13'N, 5°48.76'E

Spitfire standing on the hatch above the pilot house and drinking "fresh stream water". He seems to really like Norway, and has been spending much more time outside than in the past few months.

Position: 59°32.56'N, 5°51.02'E

The tender tied off to a tree in the small harbour off the town of Sandeid for a hike up Oktarenuten.

Position: 59°32.59'N, 5°50.44'E

At the trailhead for Oktarenuten, just across the road from where we moored the tender.

Position: 59°32.49'N, 5°50.63'E

Nice view back to Sandeid from 330 ft (100 m) up.

Position: 59°32.35'N, 5°50.20'E

Most trails in Norway run through pastures with either gates to pass through the fence, or ladders to climb over.

Position: 59°32.16'N, 5°49.72'E

Looking down to our tender moored at upper left, 1218 ft (371 m) below us.

Position: 59°32.14'N, 5°49.53'E

With 11,150 trouble-free hours on our John Deere 6068AFM75 main engine, it's no surprise that we're big John Deere fans. We are always happy to see one out in the wild.

Position: 59°32.30'N, 5°49.10'E

Looking east from the summit of Oktarenuten 1830 ft (557 m) above the town of Sandeid. In most countries, this would be an exceptional hike, but it doesn't even make the highlight list for the area. We're really loving being back in Norway.

Position: 59°32.29'N, 5°49.12'E

Lunch with a spectacular view south down Sandeidfjorden. Dirona is just visible at anchor as a small white speck in the bay at the center of the picture (click image for a larger view).

Position: 59°32.30'N, 5°49.10'E

The view north from the summit of Oktarenuten to the Romsa Islands in Bjoafjorden. We anchored there two years ago for a tender run up Akrafjorden to the famous Langfossen waterfall.

Position: 59°32.70'N, 5°50.90'E

A young lamb, looking barely able to stand, on the trail back down from Oktarenuten.

Position: 59°32.43'N, 5°52.15'E

Cygnets and swans off Sandeid.

Position: 59°31.80'N, 5°52.22'E

Several beautiful modern houses, recently constructed at Sandeid. The Norwegian economy seems as healthy as ever.

Position: 59°30.12'N, 5°52.25'E

Rope swing just south of Sandeid. The water would have to get a lot warmer than the current 63°F (18°C) for us to swim here.

Position: 59°29.91'N, 5°54.06'E

This is a modular fuel station that can be trucked in and deployed anywhere with power.

Position: 59°29.92'N, 5°54.58'E

We ran the tender over to Vikedal and up the river Vikedalselva to a beautiful set of falls.

Position: 59°29.76'N, 5°53.79'E

Plenty of space at the guest docks in Vikedal.

Position: 59°31.11'N, 5°48.73'E

The crane "winch down" failed, but after the tender was on board, so it wasn’t a problem. We’ve not seen this before, and later in the day it started working again. Troubleshooting the problem is easier when it’s failing, so we’ll wait for the next failure.

Position: 59°26.44'N, 5°45.16'E

The Jotun-B platform jacket at AF Environmental Base in Nedre Vats for decommissioning and recycling. The massive semi-submersible crane vessel Sleipnir that we passed en route to Stavanger set a record two weeks ago for the largest single lift removal of a steel jacket (a fixed oil platform made of tubular steel) when it removed the 8,929-ton (8,100-metric ton) Jotun-B platform jacket from the North Sea and transported it here.

Position: 59°26.55'N, 5°45.22'E

View to the full dock-side facilities at AF Environmental Base. This shot with the 775ft (236m) ship Curlew on the left gives a better sense of the Jotun-B's size. The Curlew is the former product tanker Maersk Dorset converted into an FPSO (Floating Production Storage And Offloading Vessel) which had a daily production capacity of 45,000 barrels of oil and a storage capacity of 560,000 barrels. It also is here for decommissioning and recycling.

Position: 59°28.27'N, 5°44.32'E

Fog drifting across the bay, looking south from the anchorage at Nedre Vats at the head of Vatsfjorden.

Position: 59°28.24'N, 5°44.35'E

View around the anchorage on our forward, aft, starboard and port cameras (clockwise from top left).

Position: 59°28.26'N, 5°44.35'E

A panoramic view of the beautiful anchorage at Nedre Vats on a clear and calm day (click image for a larger view).

Position: 59°28.26'N, 5°44.35'E

Nedre Vats resident Geir Berg-Johannesen noticed Dirona at anchor below his house and sent an email to welcome us with a picture he took.

Position: 59°28.51'N, 5°44.20'E

The tender tied off at Nedre Vats for a hike up Granuten.

Position: 59°28.58'N, 5°44.20'E

Nedre Vats is the worldwide headquarters for Hatteland Technology. The company makes a number of products, but we know them as producers of high-quality marine monitors. Some of their better monitors are as much as 20x more expensive that the ones we chose for Dirona.

Position: 59°29.62'N, 5°43.33'E

Enjoying to view to the lake Vatsvatnet at the trailhead to Granuten.

Position: 59°29.76'N, 5°41.74'E

Taking a break on the trail up Granuten. Again, it's hard to get lost on Norwegian trails. Four red trail marks are visible in this shot.

Position: 59°29.94'N, 5°41.84'E

The great view back down to Nedre Vats from 1516 ft (462 m) up. The lake we stopped at, Vatsvatnet, is on the left and our anchorage is on the right. Dirona is a small, barely-visible speck just this side of the leftmost islet (click image for a larger view).

Position: 59°29.90'N, 5°41.53'E

At the summit of Granuten, 1742ft (531m) above sea level, with our anchorage visible in the background on the left. This is just another "average" Norwegian hike that didn't make the highlight page for the area. Norway is just amazing.

Position: 59°29.90'N, 5°41.53'E

Enjoying the view over a picnic lunch at the summit of Granuten. In the background to the west is Skjoldafjorden, a large lake-like fjord that is entered by boat through the only saltwater lock in operation in Norway.

Position: 59°29.90'N, 5°41.53'E

James was complaining about being tired from the hike, right up until he saw this person running up the hill.

Position: 59°29.90'N, 5°41.53'E

The view of the Jotun-B platform jacket from Granuten really gives a feel for the size of the structure.

Position: 59°29.90'N, 5°41.84'E

A snake on the path. We have no idea if Norway even has a poisonous snake, but James hates all snake pretty much equally so we walked around it.

Position: 59°29.68'N, 5°41.89'E

It seems like the day for scary wildlife. This anthill on the trail is about a meter wide. Literally thousands of ants are on the rocks below us.

Position: 59°29.49'N, 5°42.02'E

We descended on a different, but slightly longer and less steep path, through meadows and more open fields.

Position: 59°28.77'N, 5°41.90'E

Nothing runs like a Deere. We frequently see Deere agricultural equipment on our hikes. And since our main engine is a John Deere, James rarely can hold back from taking a picture.

Position: 59°28.85'N, 5°42.32'E

View back to the summit of Granuten as we return to Dirona. We're always a little amazed at how much ground can be covered in a few hours of walking.

Position: 59°26.45'N, 5°44.85'E

Up close at the Jotun-B platform jacket. It's only been out of the water for just over a week and is still dripping water and covered in strong-smelling sealife. It would have been wild to watch the Sleipnir deliver it here.

Position: 59°23.92'N, 5°40.87'E

Mountain scenery along Yrkefjorden, west of and perpendicular to Vatsjforden where we are anchored.

Position: 59°28.25'N, 5°44.36'E

At forty minutes before midnight the sky is still pretty bright mid-July at 59° north.

Position: 59°26.72'N, 5°45.43'E

A final look at the massive Jotun-B platform jacket near the 775ft (236m) FPSO Curlew (Floating Production Storage And Offloading Vessel) at AF Environmental Base for decommissioning and recycling.

Position: 59°26.86'N, 5°50.54'E

Spitfire enjoying the relaxing and sheltered cruising through Ryfylkefjordane in southern Norway.

Position: 59°28.41'N, 6°3.45'E

Ron Rubin, former owner of Nordhavn 46 Alcyone, sent us a link to globalpetrolprices.com, showing Norway as second highest in the world. We like cruising in Norway sufficiently well to happily pay ridiculously high fuel prices.

Position: 59°28.57'N, 6°3.28'E

View to the sheltered anchorage at Kvaloy in Vindafjorden (clockwise from top left corner is the view forward, aft, starboard, and port).

Position: 59°28.57'N, 6°3.31'E

Our automation system sent an email this morning noting that we're due for a valve adjustment 50 hours after replacing the cylinder head on our generator.

Position: 59°28.57'N, 6°3.32'E

Karl Erik Johansen sent us this photo of Dirona at anchor, viewed from their terrace shortly after we'd arrived.

Position: 59°28.57'N, 6°3.32'E

One of several beautiful modern cabins on the island of Storoyna that forms the south side of our anchorage at Kvaloy.

Position: 59°28.53'N, 6°2.56'E

Bridge over the narrow channel between the island of Storoyna and Kvaloy on the mainland.

Position: 59°28.05'N, 6°1.58'E

Norway has lots and lots of fish farms. We've already seen at least a couple of dozen in the short time we've been here.

Position: 59°28.07'N, 6°1.70'E

At regular intervals, fish food is delivered through the pipes and into the fish pens.

Position: 59°28.07'N, 6°1.79'E

Workboat offloading feed at the fish farm near Kvaloy.

Position: 59°27.05'N, 6°1.46'E

We loved the bright second-floor sun room on this house at Finnvika on the opposite side of Vindafjorden from our anchorage at Kvaloy.

Position: 59°28.37'N, 6°10.44'E

We've seen several of these elevated structures in the area, but aren't sure their purpose. We're guessing they're used for fishing.

Update 08/12/2020: A blog reader told us this is a Gilje, used for catching salmon.

Position: 59°28.43'N, 6°5.00'E

Bluffs on the mainland near our anchorage at Kvaloy.

Position: 59°28.57'N, 6°3.32'E

Our crane "winch down" failed again today, but this time before we got the tender back on the boat deck. The problem likely is either a solenoid problem at the manifold or a wiring issue. Here James is wedged behind the lazarette freezer to investigate at the manifold.

Position: 59°28.57'N, 6°3.32'E

The "winch down" function has been alternating between working and not working, which slows down problem determination. But we found a broken wire that was just barely connecting in the new harness we built a year back.

Position: 59°28.55'N, 6°3.21'E

Dirona at anchor in beautiful Kvaloy in Vindafjorden.

Position: 59°22.05'N, 6°1.32'E

The cargo ship Norvind anchored at the mouth of Sandsfjorden. The vessel has a built-in front-end loader that slides fore and aft on rails.

Position: 59°22.65'N, 6°2.51'E

The Norsk Stein Jelsa is the largest quarry in Europe, with an annual production of 10 million tons of aggregate used mainly for building materials. The quarry operates a 90-ton excavator, two 100-ton wheel loaders and five 100-ton dump trunks, and the plant's primary gyrator crusher can produce 3,000 tons per hour.

Position: 59°24.25'N, 6°7.13'E

The striking bridge Sandsfjordbrua was completed in 2015, replacing a ferry connection across Sandsfjorden.

Position: 59°24.48'N, 6°7.45'E

Reflections in the water in Sandsfjorden just north of the Sandsfjordbrua.

Position: 59°24.68'N, 6°7.59'E

The high-speed ferry Fjordfart doing 29 knots en route to Stavanger from Sauda at the head of Saudafjorden.

Position: 59°25.37'N, 6°10.47'E

Moored at Nevoyvagen to run the tender to Saudo and hike Hovlandsnuten.

Position: 59°38.64'N, 6°20.45'E

A half-hour, 15-mile tender run brought us from the anchorage at Nevoyvagen to mountain-encircled Sauda at the head of Saudafjorden.

Position: 59°38.66'N, 6°20.35'E

The tender tied off at the Sauda Motorbatforening marina while we hike to Hovlandsnuten.

Position: 59°38.66'N, 6°19.70'E

The Hovlandsnuten trailhead is about a half-hour walk from the marina at Sauda. The way was mostly through residential areas, but partly on a nice wooded path.

Position: 59°38.66'N, 6°18.64'E

At 117 ft (35 m), we've gained a little elevation in reaching the trailhead for Hovlandsnuten. But we have to climb to an elevation of 3,054ft (931m) over 4.4 miles (7.1km), so we've hardly gotten started.

Position: 59°38.98'N, 6°18.02'E

Lovely stone table with a view a short way along the trail.

Position: 59°39.06'N, 6°17.72'E

Passing the entrance to the Fairytale Forest, a children's park filled with carvings of fairytale characters.

Position: 59°39.29'N, 6°17.16'E

A view to our goal of Hovlandsnuten, at center, from altitude 1028 ft (313 m). "Only" 2,026ft (618m) to go.

Position: 59°39.44'N, 6°16.86'E

These Highland Cattle stood their ground as we passed, and seemed a bit aggressive. We were reminded of the field of aggressive bulls we'd accidentally crossed in Ireland.

Position: 59°39.50'N, 6°16.27'E

Jennifer loves boardwalks. This one on the trail to Hovlandsnuten is through a field at altitude 1423 ft (433 m).

Position: 59°39.50'N, 6°16.27'E

After the boardwalk, the trail passes along a scenic stone fence by a weather-worn traditional hut, with snow still on the hills beyond.

Position: 59°39.64'N, 6°15.90'E

At altitude 1671 ft (509 m), we can clearly see the hut atop Hovlandsnuten.

Position: 59°39.73'N, 6°15.66'E

We always feel a little silly when we're tired on a trail and someone runs past on their way up. Hovlandsnuten is one of several major hiking trails in Norway that is the site of an annual run to the top. James at the top looked like he'd run all the way. :)

Position: 59°39.94'N, 6°15.24'E

A highlight of the trail to Hovlandsnuten is the fabulous steps that Nepalese Sherpas built in 2014. The stone slabs are huge and were all set in place in by hand.

Position: 59°40.10'N, 6°14.86'E

We're slightly above the snow level near the Hovlandsnuten summit, even in late July.

Position: 59°40.05'N, 6°14.89'E

Pooped, but happy, at the 3,054ft (931m) summit of Hovlandsnuten. It took us about 3 hours to reach the top from the tender.

Position: 59°40.04'N, 6°14.92'E

The modern hut atop Hovlandsnuten was completed in 2016.

Position: 59°40.04'N, 6°14.92'E

Fabulous view from the Hovlandsnuten hut.

Position: 59°40.05'N, 6°14.92'E

Lunch with a sweeping view to Saudafjorden from the summit of Hovlandsnuten.

Position: 59°40.01'N, 6°15.09'E

The Hovlandsnuten summit is popular, with dozens on the trail as we ascended and descended.

Position: 59°38.73'N, 6°20.22'E

This roofing material is common in Norway and looks quite durable and attractive.

Position: 59°38.66'N, 6°22.07'E

The original Sonna Power Station, completed in 1913, was the first of several generations of power stations that make up the Sonna hydroelectric system at Sauda.

Position: 59°38.31'N, 6°21.68'E

When the Sonna hydropower upgrade project was started in 2006, the 265MW facility was one of the largest power projects in Norway. The upgrade involved no dam construction. Instead, a system of tunnels was built to channel the flow, including the nearly mile-long tailrace tunnel that empties 100ft below the Saudafjorden. The tailrace outflow generates massive upwellings that are exciting to experience in a small tender: https://youtu.be/su0jtpE6xJ4.

Position: 59°38.31'N, 6°21.68'E

The Sagelva River waterfall flows into Saudafjorden near the Sonna tailrace. Near the bottom left, several people are sunbathing and swimming in the pools (click image for a larger view). That water has to be pretty cold.

Position: 59°37.74'N, 6°18.83'E

Looking back to the 3,054ft (931m) summit of Hovlandsnuten, slightly left of center, from the tender. We're always kind of amazed how much ground can by covered by foot with a bit of time.

Position: 59°37.46'N, 6°17.65'E

The impressive Svandalsfossen waterfall has a total fall of 590ft (180m). Stairs have been built along the right side to allow visitors to walk from the road up to the base of the upper falls or down to fjord level.

Position: 59°35.74'N, 6°17.44'E

The Hangandvikfossen waterfall has a total fall of 1,000ft (305m) and is best seen by boat from the fjord.

Position: 59°34.21'N, 6°17.42'E

Waterfall where the Hustveitelva runs into Saudafjorden.

Position: 59°29.09'N, 6°14.87'E

The town of Sand on the east side of Saudafjorden, just north of our anchorage at Nevoyvagen.

Position: 59°28.88'N, 6°14.89'E

The Suldalslagen River empties into Saudafjorden through a scenic gorge.

Position: 59°28.85'N, 6°15.29'E

The Sandsfossen waterfall along the Suldalslagen River.

Position: 59°25.38'N, 6°10.46'E

The view to the beautiful anchorage at Nevoyvagen on a calm evening on our forward, aft, starboard and port cameras (clockwise from top left).

Position: 59°25.38'N, 6°10.43'E

50 hours after the cylinder head replacement, our generator manufacturer Northern Lights recommends a valve adjustment. After that first adjustment, subsequent adjustments are scheduled every 1,000 hours. On the first adjustment, we expect to see some change from the new parts wearing in. After 50 hours we would expect to possibly see some slight loosening of the valves caused by the new parts wearing in or none at all. What we really don't want to see is the valves tightening up, the problem we had that lead to the cylinder head replacement.

What we found was cylinder #1 had loosened up one thousands of an inch, cylinder #3 had loosened up one to two thousands of an inch, whereas #2 was exactly as it was 50 hours back. This is all within expectations and suggests the engine is running well and not showing excessive wear. The engine in fact is running well and is slightly quieter than before the cylinder head was replaced. The valves were previously leaking, giving the engine a bit of a metallic exhaust note. It's now a quieter and lower tone when operating.

The only issue remaining is that the rear main oil seal still is leaking. The good news is it's now leaking a lot less than it did prior to the head replacement, but it's still leaking and the seal still needs to be changed. It's just no longer as urgent, and we'll probably due the work as things slow down this winter.

Position: 59°25.40'N, 6°10.46'E

The generator continues to run really well and here is holding 42 amps of load at 1745 RPM.

Position: 59°25.39'N, 6°10.44'E

We store bulk gasoline on the boat deck in two 29-gallon (110L) tanks. From there we transfer them to four 1.25-gallon and one 5-gallon tank to quickly and easily fill the tender. When the tender is low and all those smaller tanks are empty, we repeat the process. This is the first time we've had the bulk tanks out for at least eight months, so the job was a little bigger this time as the area behind needed a good scrub.

Position: 59°25.38'N, 6°10.44'E

Looking north into Saudafjorden from the anchorage at Nevoyvagen.

Position: 59°28.96'N, 6°14.90'E

Our tender moored on the guest dock at the town of Sand to have a walk around town.

Position: 59°29.03'N, 6°15.05'E

Fresh strawberries for sale from a giant strawberry.

Position: 59°28.90'N, 6°15.37'E

Overlooking the Sandsfossen waterfall that we visited by tender yesterday.

Position: 59°28.89'N, 6°15.38'E

The award-winning bridge Hosebrua just above the waterall Sandsfossen provides a crossing of and views to the river Suldalslagen and is beautifully lit up at night in the fall and winter.

Position: 59°28.87'N, 6°15.57'E

The floor and sides of the bridge Hosebrua are made with metal mesh for views to the river Suldalslagen below.

Position: 59°28.92'N, 6°14.99'E

The ferry Fjordlys departing Sand en route to Stavanger. This is the same boat that tucked in behind when we were departing Stavanger after clearing through.

Position: 59°32.53'N, 6°25.89'E

One of the many waterfalls, this one from the river Liarbekken, that run down into beautiful Hylsfjord.

Position: 59°33.46'N, 6°30.85'E

The river Skakabekken gushing into Hylsfjord.

Position: 59°33.39'N, 6°31.78'E

We really love our AB 12VST tender. It's a comfortable, stable and fast ride at 32 knots (36.82 mph). A high-speed tender is a great complement to a slow-moving trawler, allowing us to quickly explore long distances away from Dirona.

Position: 59°33.57'N, 6°32.44'E

The spectacular Lingvangfossen waterfall in Hylsfjord. Jennifer is barely visible at right wearing a pink coat.

Position: 59°33.54'N, 6°35.62'E

The tailrace from the 160 MW Hylen hydroelectric power station empties into Hylsfjord with tremendous force, generating choppy water and lots of spray. It's feels like a whole different weather system around it.

Position: 59°33.55'N, 6°36.00'E

The 160 MW Hylen hydroelectric power station at the head of Hylsfjord was completed in 1981.

Position: 59°33.34'N, 6°34.45'E

A cleft in the cliffs, with another waterfall, along the north shore near the head of dramatic Hylsfjord.

Position: 59°24.64'N, 6°12.34'E

This tiny islet with a single red house and boat shed is at the head of Lovrajforden, near our anchorage at Nevoyvagen (the islet is more obvious in this picture). What an awesome setup.

Position: 59°25.41'N, 6°10.17'E

Passing through the narrow, small-boat channel between the mainlaina and Oyna, the island that shelters the anchorage at Nevoyvagen.

Position: 59°25.42'N, 6°9.70'E

We're seeing a lot more swans on this second trip to Norway, likely because they don't range as far north as we were in our 2018 trip.

Position: 59°23.67'N, 6°5.64'E

Houses along scenic Ottoysundet as we exit the Saudafjorden area in a downpour.

Position: 59°18.79'N, 6°7.45'E

A small weather system is passing through, and we're seeing gusts to 45 knots as we're underway for Erjforden. You can also see the main start alternator (third from left, third row) is 124°F, where it should be charging at full output. The other alternator, above, is running at 265°F. Only one alternator is charging, so we'll need to replace that start alternator. Given how hard we run them, often up over 250°F, it's amazing that this is the first failure we've experienced in 11,100 hours.

Position: 59°19.60'N, 6°12.07'E

The anchorage at Hattavagen is a little tighter than normal for us, but it was so beautiful and peaceful that we decided to anchor there. We measured carefully and did have enough swing room, but the shore looked awfully close when we pulled back. As an extra test, we verified the distance remaining with the Nikon Forestry Pro Laser Rangefinder that we use to check bridge clearance. The space remaining, 40 yards, was exactly what we expected, but it still looks close for conservative anchorers like us.

Position: 59°19.59'N, 6°12.05'E

Spitfire also checking the clearance at Hattavagen. He's always concerned when we're close to anything, be it another boat or shore.

Position: 59°19.60'N, 6°12.06'E

Earlier in the day, the main start alternator failed so James has the drive belt off, we've got the spare out, and we're making the change. These high-output alternators are quite expensive so we'll get this one rebuilt.

Position: 59°19.60'N, 6°12.07'E

The temperature sensor on the main transmission failed. The sensing system is excessively complicated, where the sensor produces J1939 CANbus output which plugs into the main engine control harness and is converted to NMEA 2000 using a Maretron J2k100 converter. We replaced it with a Maretron temperature sensor that directly connects to a Maretron TMP100 temperature monitor producing NMEA 2000. This is a simpler and more reliable approach. Here James is running a wire from the transmission to the TMP100.

Position: 59°19.60'N, 6°12.05'E

The view to the anchorage at Hattavagen on a calm morning (clockwise from top left: forward, aft, starboard and port).

Position: 59°19.68'N, 6°12.02'E

It's hard to believe that the anchorage at Hattavagen feels tight, but the swing radius is 75 yards and the depth is 28ft. So with a 4:1 scope (120ft), we have about 100 feet extra. Subtracting off the boat length of 52 feet, that leaves about 50 feet behind us when we are pulled back all the way. (The actual space remaining is a little better using the Pythagorean theorem to calculate our actual swing radius, but the math shows us we could come close to covering the entire area).

Position: 59°16.58'N, 6°5.69'E

Our tender moored at Ombo for a hike to Bandasen.

Position: 59°16.57'N, 6°5.71'E

Sometimes we have to walk a ways to reach the trailhead from the tender, but here we could land right next to it.

Position: 59°16.44'N, 6°5.62'E

Waterfall on the hike up to Bandasen.

Position: 59°16.60'N, 6°5.37'E

It seems that almost everyone in Norway owns a summer cabin and many that we see are well beyond what we would consider a simple "cabin". Here's an example of one of the many that we'd happily call home.

Position: 59°16.68'N, 6°5.31'E

View northeast along the hike to Bandasen. We're anchored on the other side of the sloping ridge on the left.

Position: 59°16.84'N, 6°4.44'E

Our goal of the summit of Bandasen at 510 meters above sea level.

Position: 59°17.00'N, 6°3.84'E

A stone flagstone path through lush woods along the trail to Bandasen.

Position: 59°17.33'N, 6°3.24'E

At the summit of Bandasen. The weather was supposed to clear this afternoon, but got worse. Instead of the panoramic view we were looking forward to, we got only a few good glimpses from the top before the clouds descended and we couldn't see anything below.

Position: 59°17.14'N, 6°3.62'E

The weather forecast definitely wasn't accurate today. Rather than partly sunny skies, our descent was through pouring rain. But we stayed warm if not dry.

Position: 59°18.57'N, 6°16.10'E

Lookig south to the end of Erfjorden.

Position: 59°17.93'N, 6°16.31'E

Bluff in Erfjorden. Even the simple scenery in Norway is striking.

Position: 59°19.60'N, 6°12.07'E

Spitfire usually sleeps on his fleece pad, but occasionally makes a nest out of the pillows in the pilot house berth.

Position: 59°19.60'N, 6°12.07'E

Blog reader Kaare Svaboe has a summer cabin in the area and stopped by to say hello and give us some tips on nearby places of interest. He also invited us to visit their private island Lauvholmen. The cabin is about 15 miles to the south, but he covered the ground pretty quickly in his capable Goldfish 23 Tender. 400HP in a light power plant on a well-designed hull can really step out. This boat will do over 60 nautical miles per hour.

Position: 59°19.59'N, 6°12.06'E

Freshly baked blueberry muffins for breakfast.

Position: 59°19.59'N, 6°12.05'E

One of the drivers in our loudspeakers has failed and is making a hissing sound. Here James is unwiring the failed one. We contacted the manufacturer, Definitive Audio, and they can send us a replacement to Seattle at a reasonable price.

Position: 59°19.59'N, 6°12.05'E

The console hatch cover cover came off as we were out in the tender yesterday because both hinge pins had worn and vibrated out. We replace the pins with slightly wider roll pins and here are pounding them in with a mallet. These won't be going anywhere.

Position: 59°19.59'N, 6°12.07'E

The tender console hatch is now secure and back to operational again with the hinge pins replaced.

Position: 59°19.61'N, 6°12.06'E

A beautiful calm morning in the anchorage at Hattavagen in Erfjord.

Position: 59°15.62'N, 6°12.24'E

Waterfall from the lake Hagalivatnet flowing into the mouth of Josenfjorden, one of many we'll see today along the dramatic fjord.

Position: 59°16.08'N, 6°14.12'E

Waterfall flowing down the headland Barebergneset in Josenfjorden. The scenery already is fabulous here and we've hardly gotten started. It's no wonder tour boat ply these waters.

Position: 59°16.39'N, 6°16.67'E

Looking up from the tender to an overhang in a steep cliff along Josenfjorden.

Position: 59°16.65'N, 6°17.27'E

One of several dolphins in Josenfjorden. The dolphins we've seen so far in Norway tend to be very shy around people, and usually disappear within seconds of us sighting them.

Position: 59°16.40'N, 6°20.03'E

The cargo ship Nysand moored at dramatic Totlandsvik. The operator of the on-board front-end loader was working so quickly that the ship rocked back and forth as he moved the crane about to offload his cargo into a waiting truck.

Position: 59°18.89'N, 6°25.63'E

The village of Vadla set in spectacular Josenfjorden.

Position: 59°19.00'N, 6°28.83'E

The headland Segadalsneset jutting into the waterway from the left where Josenfjorden begins to narrow towards the head. After two days of heavy rain, we've got a wonderfully clear and calm day to tour the fjord.

Position: 59°19.04'N, 6°29.84'E

Waterfall where Segadalsana flows into Josenfjorden. After visiting the head, we returned later to have lunch beside these falls.

Position: 59°19.06'N, 6°30.56'E

The headland Tana on the left, looking towards the head of Josenfjorden.

Position: 59°19.32'N, 6°33.45'E

Looking back from the head of Josenfjorden towards the mouth. For scale, a small white boat is barely visible at the center of the picture (click image for a larger view).

Position: 59°19.17'N, 6°32.41'E

The cliff Midskog soars over 700m almost straight near the head of Josenfjorden.

Position: 59°19.16'N, 6°29.86'E

The tender moored by the waterfall from the river Segadalsana.

Position: 59°19.17'N, 6°29.86'E

A picnic lunch alongside the Segadalsana waterfall with a view down into Josenfjorden.

Position: 59°19.20'N, 6°22.68'E

Waterfall at the Sildafjelltunnelen, a 3461ft (1055m) tunnel through the mountain (tunnel not visible).

Position: 59°20.89'N, 6°14.03'E

We'd started on a tour of Erfjorden two days ago, but the weather was overcast and raining, so we came back today. This is the 965ft (294 m) Erfjord Bridge crossing Erfjorden.

Position: 59°23.31'N, 6°13.09'E

The town of Sorhus at the head of Erfjorden. Red paint is very popular in Norway.

Position: 59°14.06'N, 6°10.02'E

The ferry Sigrid departing Hjelmeland as we arrive at the fuel dock.

Position: 59°14.05'N, 6°10.01'E

Moored at the Hjelmeland fuel dock to take on a load of gasoline. The fuel dock is setup for smaller boats and we pretty much filled it. The pump is self-pay and limited to a certain dollar amount, with the instructions all in Norwegian. But with a little help from a local, we managed to sort it out over multiple purchases. Without a PIN-based credit card though, we wouldn't have been able to make the purchases.

We hadn't bought any gasoline since Puumala in the Saimaa Lakes in June of last year and we're nearly out with all the tender trips we've been making. We bought 82 gallons (313L) at 6.02 USD/gallon, so an expensive fill but we're happy to pay it in order to maximize our time touring the fjords.

Position: 59°14.08'N, 6°10.02'E

Dredge working off Hjelmeland as we depart the fuel dock.

Position: 59°11.82'N, 6°0.86'E

View to the anchorage at Kotavagen (clockwise from top left: forward, aft, starboard and port).

Position: 59°11.82'N, 6°0.88'E

Two YouTube followers rowed over in this beautiful wooden to say hello at Kotavagen.

Position: 59°11.82'N, 6°0.88'E

Blog readers from one of the other boats moored in the cove came by to chat. We're surprised at how well-known the boat seems to be in Norway. Another boater came over to say hello later in the evening as well.

Position: 59°11.82'N, 6°0.88'E

Golden sunset at Kotavagen after another great day in Norway.

Position: 59°11.82'N, 6°0.85'E

Morning calm from our anchorage at Kotavagen.

Position: 59°11.83'N, 6°0.85'E

The village of Kotaberg on the island of Randoy.

Position: 59°12.02'N, 6°0.36'E

Our tender tied off at the Furutangen Misjonssenter marina for a hike up 1,230ft (375m) Randasen.

Position: 59°12.60'N, 6°0.78'E

At the trailhead for the hike up Randasen. The hill is on a rich layer of slate deposits, visible in the background, that has been quarried in the past.

Position: 59°12.66'N, 6°1.20'E

Fantastic view west partway up the trail to Randasen at 920 ft (280 m) (click image for larger view).

Position: 59°12.66'N, 6°1.20'E

View from the Randasen trail to Stavanger, 15 miles to the southwest. We haven't made much progress distance-wise since arriving in Norway :).

Position: 59°12.61'N, 6°1.53'E

The trail is mostly easy going, with a rope in a couple of places to help with the steeper parts.

Position: 59°12.50'N, 6°1.71'E

The summit of 1,230ft (375m) Randasen was an easy one-hour hike from the marina.

Position: 59°12.49'N, 6°1.70'E

Lunch on the top of Randasen with a view to the anchorage. Dirona is the larger of the white specks below, in roughly the center of the bay (click image for a larger view).

Position: 59°12.49'N, 6°1.70'E

View to the island Lauvholmen from the summit of Randasen. This is the island that blog reader Kaare Svaboe invited us to come visit when he stopped by our anchorage at Hattavagen.

Position: 59°11.29'N, 6°1.68'E

Steep-roofed boat house on the bay Austrevik on the island of Randoy, viewed on a tender tour of the area. It looks designed for quite a large vessel.

Position: 59°10.98'N, 5°57.18'E

700-ft (213m) Eikerjellet on the island of Halsnoy.

Position: 59°11.32'N, 5°59.53'E

After our hike and tender tour, we visited Kaare Svaboe on their family's private island Lauvholmen. This is one of three beautiful modern summer "cabins" on the island.

Position: 59°11.33'N, 5°59.53'E

Dirona at anchor in Kotavagen, viewed from Lauvholmen.

Position: 59°11.31'N, 5°59.51'E

With Kaare Svaboe (right) and his father Sjur Svaboe at Lauvholmen. Sjur is a serial entrepreneur and the founder of the biotechnology company Biolink Group AS. He bought Lauvholmen 40 years ago and lives there much of the year.

We loved how the back deck was tucked away from the wind and weather and packed with heaters, but still had a fabulous view through the house to the sea. It is an absolutely spectacular setup. We'd only stopped by to say hello, but Sjur and Kaare insisted we stay for dinner and we had a wonderful evening with excellent conversation. This was our first dinner off Dirona since Antwerp in March.

Position: 59°11.32'N, 5°59.51'E

Celebrating Spitfire's 17th birthday with a can of Applaws Tuna Fillet and a safe-for-whiskers, flameless candle. Normally we feed him Hill's Kidney Care, which he will eat, but only if we mix in a bit of tastier Gourmet Gold Mousse. He'll eat Applaws Tuna Fillet anytime though, in any amount and for as long as we let him.

Position: 59°13.76'N, 5°49.15'E

Large Fleming heading to the Ryfylke Outdoor Council's mooring area on the other side of the islet of Nodholmen from our anchorage. We're only 15 miles from Stavanger, and are seeing a lot more large, recreational power boats than we saw on our previous trip to Norway where we spent much of our time farther north away from the larger centers.

Position: 59°13.75'N, 5°49.15'E

Goat ashore on Nodholmen. The island is rather small but close to larger island of Nord-Talgje, so perhaps they swim across, or can walk at low tide.

Position: 59°13.76'N, 5°49.14'E

Beautiful sunset from our anchorage at Nodholmen.

Position: 59°13.76'N, 5°49.15'E

Our bicycles loaded into the tender for a ride along the Sjernaroyrunden, a marked cycle route around the bridge-connected Sjernaroyane islands. Kaare Svaboe had recommended it to us and we were really looking forward to it.

Position: 59°13.91'N, 5°48.87'E

Lubing the bicycle chains before setting off on our ride. The Giant FCR-2s continue to perform incredibly well, with little maintenance, after more than a decade on board. The only other thing we needed to do after not using them since Amsterdam was to put air in the tires. Bikes lasting ten years is excellent longevity. Bikes lasting ten years when stored outside on a boat in a saltwater environment is amazing.

Position: 59°13.95'N, 5°48.87'E

The tender moored at one of the Ryfylke Outdoor Council's docks at Nodholmen.

Position: 59°14.08'N, 5°48.91'E

Riding over our first bridge of the Sjernaroyrunden, the Sjernaroy Bridge from Talgje to Tjul. Its great to be out on the bikes again after so many months since Amsterdam.

Position: 59°14.24'N, 5°49.09'E

An unusual sight of goats sunning on the rocks near the shore.

Position: 59°14.42'N, 5°49.33'E

Looking from Tjul to the bridge to Kyrkjoy.

Position: 59°15.35'N, 5°50.15'E

Crossing the low bridge between Kyrkjoy and Eriksholmen. On the right is a popular guest harbour, Eriksholmen.

Position: 59°15.12'N, 5°50.25'E

The bridge across the Aubosund, between Eriksholmen and Aubo, has 45ft (14m) clearance, plenty for Dirona's 30ft (9.14m) air draft.

Position: 59°14.99'N, 5°51.99'E

We were surprised that the first people we came across on our bicycle trip through the Sjernaroyane islands greeted us by name. It was Kristian Larsen, former Dana Point (Nordhavn headquarters) resident and long-time blog reader and Nordhavn fan who was visiting the islands by boat with his partner. Kristian is the COO of Biolink Group AS, founded by Sjur Svaboe, whose private island Lauvholmen we'd visited earlier.

Position: 59°15.05'N, 5°51.89'E

We took a detour off the Sjernaroyrunden cycle route to ride up the road Bjergabakken to check out the views from the top of the island of Bjergoy. The road up was really steep with several hairpin turns. We gained about 230 ft (70m) of altitude in a tenth of a mile (0.2km), about a 35% grade. We worked for that one.

Position: 59°15.65'N, 5°51.94'E

We cycled most of the way on a dirt road, then walked a short distance to reach a great viewpoint. Here we are looking north across Nedstrandsfjorden from the island of Bjergoy.

Position: 59°15.65'N, 5°51.94'E

We've not made much progress distance-wise. From the hill on Bjergoy, we could see the trail up to Himakana, our first hike on this trip to Norway nearly two weeks ago. The trail is the white road heading up the hill, and directly above the Himakana rock formations are just barely visible roughly at center (click image for a larger view).

Position: 59°14.94'N, 5°52.38'E

The offshore supply ship Polar King has been holding position off the east side of Bjergoy for the past day or two—we could see it from our anchorage. The vessel is not anchored, and prop wash is visible behind it. It appears to be using a dynamic position system (automatically holds the ship in position), or someone is at the helm. But if the latter, they are very precise as the boat hasn't moved for more than a day.

Position: 59°15.06'N, 5°52.53'E

Cycling through lush woods along the east side of Bjergoy.

Position: 59°15.66'N, 5°51.01'E

Two Rodne Fjord Cruise boats, Rygerkatt (left) and Rygerprinsessen, moored at Ramsvik on Sjernaroy. The company, headquartered here, operates one of the largest fleets of express boats in the country, with 15 vessels. It was one of the Rodne boats, Rygerdronningen, we passed while departing Stavanger a few weeks ago.

Position: 59°15.34'N, 5°50.52'E

Taking a break and enjoying the view from the northern tip of the island of Aubo.

Position: 59°15.08'N, 5°50.41'E

Looking from Aubo to the bridge from Eriksholmen to Kyrkjoy that we'd crossed earlier today.

Position: 59°15.22'N, 5°48.90'E

The wooden Sjernaroy Church was completed in 1647. They build to last here in Norway.

Position: 59°14.18'N, 5°48.95'E

View to Dirona moored off Nodholmen as we pass by on our way to complete the cycle route Sjernaroyrunden.

Position: 59°13.56'N, 5°49.98'E

Our last bridge of the day, from Talgje to Halgoy, beyond the bay Talgjevagen.

Position: 59°13.48'N, 5°50.35'E

Helgoysund Marina, another popular guest harbour, looking north from the bridge between Talgje and Halgoy. The marina was quite full yesterday (Sunday), but has emptied out quite a bit since then.

Position: 59°13.48'N, 5°50.35'E

The view north across the Sjernaroy islands from the bridge between Talgje and Halgoy. The 14m bridge between Aubo and Eriksholmen is prominent on the right, with the low bridge between Eriksholmen and Kyrkjoy on the left. In the distance, the trail to Himakana is just visible below the highest peak at left.

Position: 59°13.69'N, 5°51.12'E

The ambulance boat Rygerdoktoren ("the Doctor"), one of Rodne Fjord Cruise's 15 vessels, moored at Helgoy. The 63ft (19.4m) vessel, launched in 2002, was the world's first carbon fiber commercial vessel and has a maximum speed of 44 knots.

Position: 59°13.69'N, 5°51.12'E

The end of the Sjernaroyrunden marked cycle route at the Helgoy Ferry Dock. Judging by the lanes, the ferries can get pretty busy on a summer weekend. By the time we returned back to Dirona, we'd covered 20 miles. We had a great time and appreciate Kaare Svaboe recommending the trip.

Position: 59°13.75'N, 5°49.14'E

Dramatic sunset through a hole in the cloud, viewed from the anchorage off Nodholmen.

Position: 59°13.75'N, 5°49.11'E

Beautiful pink sky as we get underway from the anchorage at Nodholmen.

Position: 59°14.05'N, 5°49.00'E

Heading under 10m Sjernaroy Bridge. With our 30ft (9.14m) air draft we had a good 3 feet to spare.

Position: 59°19.29'N, 5°37.00'E

Looking east to the light on the islet Raudholmen as we head north into Hervikfjorden.

Position: 59°22.46'N, 5°37.32'E

Still water reflections at Batavika on the west side of Hervikfjorden.

Position: 59°24.49'N, 5°35.34'E

View to the anchorage at Romsalandsvagen (clockwise from top left: forward, aft, starboard and port). We initially were planning to anchor in the outer bay, but found a clear path into the inner basin. It's a lovely sheltered spot with islets all around.

Position: 59°24.49'N, 5°35.34'E

The seat on our tender absorbs water and the foam compresses flat when we sit and isn't very comfortable. So we removed it to see if we can replace the padding.

Position: 59°24.48'N, 5°35.35'E

Scraping off the glued-in old foam from the tender seat.

Position: 59°24.48'N, 5°35.36'E

Fitting some denser foam for the tender seat.

Position: 59°24.48'N, 5°35.36'E

Spraying adhesive onto the new foam for the tender seat.

Position: 59°24.47'N, 5°35.34'E

Adding another layer of foam to the tender seat. The thicker and denser padding won't compress as much and is closed-cell so won't absorb water.

Position: 59°24.47'N, 5°35.34'E

Restapling the tender seat back together after replacing the padding.

Position: 59°24.47'N, 5°35.34'E

Reinstalling the tender seat. It's much more comfortable than before.

Position: 59°25.67'N, 5°37.41'E

Passing under the low bridge across the Skjoldastraumen, just north of our anchorage at Romsalandsvagen, into the Skjoldafjorden. This is the body of water we could see from our hike to Granuten.

Position: 59°25.72'N, 5°37.23'E

The passage we took in the tender through the Skjoldastraumen is shallow, and the current can be quite strong. To allow larger boats to reach the Skjoldafjorden beyond, a lock was built between 1904-1908. For many decades steam ships regularly passed through the locks, carrying people and goods between Skjoldafjorden and the larger centers of Stavanger and Haugesund. Today mostly pleasure craft use the locks.

This is the only operating saltwater lock in Norway. A second lock was built at Lindas near Bergen, but this fell into disuse in the 1960s. Plans were underway to reopen them, but was far as we know they are still not operating.

Position: 59°25.76'N, 5°37.22'E

The original, still-operational lock doors from 1908.

Position: 59°30.07'N, 5°35.31'E

Beautiful modern view homes at the north end of the Skjoldafjorden.

Position: 59°27.03'N, 5°29.76'E

Wind-scrubbed hills along the western side of the Skjoldafjorden.

Position: 59°25.87'N, 5°37.11'E

A pleasure craft exiting the Skjoldastraumen Lock. With the shallow water and low air draft at the bridge we took the tender under, only smaller boats can pass through there and everyone else needs to use the lock.

Position: 59°25.79'N, 5°37.21'E

The bridge closing at the Skjoldastraumen Lock after a boat passes through.

Position: 59°24.47'N, 5°35.07'E

Dozens and dozens of swans cover the waters near our anchorage off Romsalandsvagen.

Position: 59°24.32'N, 5°35.24'E

Creek draining the lake Poyla into the south side of our anchorage.

Position: 59°24.50'N, 5°35.33'E

It's been months since we've been to a restaurant, but we can still get our pizza fix at Pizzeria Dirona.

Position: 59°16.08'N, 5°30.18'E

A closer view in heavy rain and wind to the Karsto refinery that we passed shortly after arriving in the area three weeks ago. The facility is connected via pipeline to about 30 oil and gas fields and is the largest of its kind in Europe.

Position: 59°18.03'N, 5°27.69'E

Popular guest harbour at Hamnarholmen.

Position: 59°17.81'N, 5°24.23'E

The wreck of a large ship off Gismarvika as we get underway from Labbavika.

Position: 59°22.70'N, 5°24.09'E

Wonderfully clear and calm conditions after yesterday's downpour and winds. This is looking into the lagoon Soyla off Sorvagen where we are anchored.

Position: 59°23.05'N, 5°23.86'E

We've seen several eagles in Norway, but finally got close enough for a good picture.

Position: 59°23.09'N, 5°24.08'E

Summer cabins are very popular in Norway, as are often-detached outdoor rooms like this beautiful one on a Sorvagen hilltop, that can be setup for various weather conditions.

Position: 59°25.26'N, 5°23.00'E

Large marina at Forre at the head of Forresfjorden.

Position: 59°19.98'N, 5°21.76'E

Looking back to the bridge over the waterway Royksund from the tender. We'll be passing through here in Dirona tomorrow en route to Haugesund.

Position: 59°19.96'N, 5°21.67'E

Lovely picnic area overlooking the Royksund.

Position: 59°23.03'N, 5°23.90'E

Dirona moored at Sorvagen off Forresfjorden.

Position: 59°20.03'N, 5°21.87'E

Heading under the bridge across Royksund en route to Haugesund. The bridge has a 13m clearance, plenty of room for our 30ft (9.14m) air draft.

Position: 59°21.61'N, 5°18.43'E

We saw the 229ft (70m) cargo vessel With Harvest several times on our previous visit to Norway.

Position: 59°21.89'N, 5°18.08'E

The LNG carrier Gulf Energy was moored here over two years ago when we first arrived into Norway. Back then the Bering Energy was tied alongside. BBC's Richard Hammond hosted an excellent documentary on LPG tanker design and safety concerns: LNG Super Tanker Engineering Connections

Position: 59°21.89'N, 5°18.08'E

Four of 125 ships in the Solstad fleet: the anchor handling tug supply (AHTS) ships Normand Master, Norman Titan, Norman Mariner and Norman Borg. Norway has an astounding number of very capable ships.

Position: 59°22.33'N, 5°17.84'E

Approaching the Karmsund Bridge across the Karmsund as we near Haugesund.

Position: 59°22.99'N, 5°17.49'E

The Karmsund Group's massive 1.2-million square foot (110 decare) servicebase for the petro/marine industry along the Karmsund.

Position: 59°23.47'N, 5°17.06'E

One of several modern view homes along the Karmsund.

Position: 59°24.26'N, 5°16.59'E

The 155-ft (47.2m) Tor moored at Haugesund is one of five Nornen-class inshore patrol vessels operated by the Kystvakt (Norwegian Coast Guard).

Position: 59°24.34'N, 5°16.53'E

Taking the Smedasundet into Haugesund.

Position: 59°24.60'N, 5°16.23'E

Moored at the last empty spot in the guest harbour along the Smedasundet in Haugesund. The marina is much busier than the last time we were here. Partly because it is early-August rather than late September, partly due to the Haugesund jazz festival being held this weekend, and partly due to COVID-19 restrictions. Blog reader and Bergen resident Tronde Saetre tells us that the marinas in Norway are much fuller than usual this summer because most boaters who normally would traveled internationally are staying home.

Position: 59°24.60'N, 5°16.23'E

The shorepower supply at our berth in Haugesund was a 15-amp SCHUKO socket, rather than the standard marine socket (IEC309) mostly used elsewhere in the guest harbour. We built some pigtail adapters for these while in Amsterdam, so it was a simple matter to plug in and get power. This is the first time we've used these SCHUKO adapters.

Position: 59°24.60'N, 5°16.22'E

The capable-looking Search and Rescue vessel Bergen Kreds passing south through the Smedasundet in Haugesund.

Position: 59°24.60'N, 5°16.22'E

A Norwegian wearing a Seattle-purchased T-shirt was very excited to learn that our boat had actually arrived from there on it's own bottom. He was a big fan of Seattle and had visited recently there with friends and family. We enjoyed the discussion.

Position: 59°24.60'N, 5°16.31'E

Looking down Asbygata to Dirona moored at the bottom. Hopefully no large trucks will have brake failure descending the hill.

Position: 59°24.74'N, 5°16.05'E

This is the first Norwegian town we've visited on our return trip. Most of the bars and restaurants in Haugesund were open for business, and many were pretty full. This was a real contrast to the last town we'd been in, Stornoway, Scotland, where all bars were still closed and restaurants were only allowed to provide take-out.

Position: 59°25.04'N, 5°15.84'E

Gazebo and fountain in tranquil Byparken on a walk to the Haraldshaugen monument just outside Haugesund.

Position: 59°25.03'N, 5°15.71'E

Statue of Harald I Fairhair, who according to lore reigned as the first king of Norway from 872 to 930.

Position: 59°25.04'N, 5°15.72'E

Overlook into the marina at the north end of Smedasundet from the Harald Fairhair statue.

Position: 59°25.30'N, 5°15.45'E

Nice beach and waterside picnic area at the end of a small park at the north end of Haugesund.

Position: 59°25.40'N, 5°15.63'E

Heavy-duty barbed-wire fencing surrounding the Haugesund High-Security Prison. We were surprised to see that kind of prison packed in amongst houses in a residential district.

Position: 59°25.74'N, 5°15.52'E

The Norwegian National monument Haraldshaugen to King Harald I Fairhair. The monument was erected in 1872 to commemorate the millennial anniversary of Norway's unification, near the site where Harald was believed to be buried. The 29 granite memorial stones surrounding the central pillar represent each of the historic counties of Norway.

Position: 59°25.68'N, 5°15.57'E

Krosshaugen, a stone cross dating from the early days of Christianity in Norway, about 1000 AD.

Position: 59°25.43'N, 5°15.44'E

We couldn't find any information about the purpose of this stone monument at Rekavik in north Haugesund engraved with '1 HGSD 1910'.

Position: 59°25.43'N, 5°15.44'E

Another of the 125 ships in the Solstad fleet: the subsea construction support vessel Normand Ocean. The boat was holding position off Haugesund for most of the day, probably testing its dynamic positioning system.

Position: 59°25.18'N, 5°15.76'E

Skare Church in Haugesund, built in 1858.

Position: 59°24.60'N, 5°16.23'E

View to our berth at Haugesund in the early evening (clockwise from top left: forward, aft, starboard and port). It's getting busier and busier here, with more boats arriving throughout the afternoon and evening. In several places boats are rafted two and three deep.

Position: 59°24.60'N, 5°16.23'E

A Poker Run from Haugesund to Bergen takes place this weekend and from the cockpit we had a front-row view of the many high-speed vessels that arrived over the course of the evening. All looked very fast, and none had remembered their muffler. :)