MV Dirona travel digest for Southeast Sweden 2019


Show Southeast Sweden 2019 travel log map Click the travel log icon on the left to see these locations on a map, with the complete log of our cruise.

On the map page, clicking on a camera or text icon will display a picture and/or log entry for that location, and clicking on the smaller icons along the route will display latitude, longitude and other navigation data for that location. And a live map of our current route and most recent log entries always is available at //mvdirona.com/maps/LocationCurrent.html.


   

3/27/2019: Hammershus Castle
Hammershus Castle, just barely visible in the mist, as we pass along the west coast of Bornholm en route to Sweden.
3/27/2019: Ara Liverpool
The 462 ft (141m) Gibraltar-flagged container ship Ara Liverpool heading south of Bornholm Island.
3/27/2019: Traffic
Lots of traffic as we cross the lanes north of Bornholm Island.
3/27/2019: Genca
The Netherlands-registered RO/RO cargo ship Genca.
3/27/2019: Danish Flag
Lowering our Danish courtesy flag. We won't have that one up again until we pass through the Copenhagen area this fall.
3/27/2019: Swedish Flag
Raising a Swedish courtesy flag for the first time. We're really looking forward to cruising Sweden.
3/27/2019: Swedish Customs
On the phone with Swedish Customs to report our arrival with our cat Spitfire. Sweden requires that any animals brought into the country be declared to customs.
3/27/2019: Utklippan
Approaching Utklippan, the most southeasterly islands in Sweden and our first Swedish port.
3/27/2019: Cannon
Lone cannon standing guard at Utklippan.
3/27/2019: Utklippan Lighthouse
A light at Utklippan was first lit in 1789. The current tower was built in 1870, replacing an older one built in 1840 on top of a fortress. The light was automated in 1972 and deactivated in 2008.
3/27/2019: Sweden Arrival
Olof Hernmarck, the harbourmaster at Utklippan, sent us this image from their web cam of Dirona arriving into our first Swedish port. Utklippan is an incredibly beautiful island full of migrating shorebirds, lots of history to see, and a lighthouse. It's a wild place at the southeast extreme of the country and we have it all to ourselves. We're excited to reach Sweden and are looking forward to some fabulous cruising.
3/27/2019: Welcome to Utklippan
We're so excited to finally arrive in Sweden as the first guests of the season at Utklippan.
3/27/2019: Utklippan Harbour
The harbour we're in was originally built as an emergency shelter for local fisherman, with an east and a west entrance to allow protected entry depending on the sea conditions. It's now a popular guest harbour.
3/27/2019: Web Cam View
The view to our moorage at Utklippan from the island web cam.
3/27/2019: Sodraskar
Utklippan is made up of two islands, Norraskar where we are moored, and Sodraskar, where the lighthouse is. The islands aren't connected, so we dropped the tender in to walk around Sodraskar. We wore our Mustang suits, not because it was particularly cold at 45°F (7.2°C), but to take the tender around the outside of the island.
3/27/2019: Lighthouse
To help defend the Swedish Navy base in nearby Karlskrona, a lighthouse was built on Sodraskar in 1842 with a quadratic defense tower. It is one of the few fortified lighthouses in the world.
3/27/2019: Cannon
In times of war, twenty men would be based on Sodraskar to defend the island with four cannons.
3/27/2019: Sauna
The wooden buildings around the original lighthouse structure are a guest hostel, complete with sauna.
3/27/2019: Swans
We usually see swans only in sheltered waters, but have seen several "surf swans" over the past few days.
3/27/2019: Foundation
Several foundations like this are present on Utklippan, likely the remain of fishermen's huts dating from at least the 17th century.
3/27/2019: Breakwater
Jennifer walking along the northwest breakwater at Utklippan, towards the entry we came through earlier. A ship is just visible in the distance to the south.
3/28/2019: Utklippan
A beautiful calm scene early this morning at Utklippan.
3/28/2019: Dawn
Dawn viewed from the Utklippan harbour. The black dots visible in the water are masses of seabirds. The islands have been a nature reserve since 1988 and are known for seal colonies, migrant birds and special frogs.
3/28/2019: Tight
We didn't have much space on either side as we negotiated the east exit from Utklippan.
3/28/2019: First Swedish Sunrise
Our first Swedish sunrise, and it's a beauty.
3/28/2019: Submarine
As we approached Karlskrona, we could make out two large radar targets, but couldn't see anything obvious. As we got closer, both targets turned out to be Sodermanland class Swedish Navy submarines heading into the navy base at Karlskrona.
3/28/2019: Adjusting Course
We had to adjust course to allow one of the submarines, the highlighted target to our north, to pass ahead of us into Karlskrona. The other submarine is the target to our southwest and it will fall in behind us as we enter the channel.
3/28/2019: Unescorted
Following one of the submarines into Karlskrona. After spending so much time around the Seattle area with its multiple submarine bases, we're used to seeing a flotilla of ships escort an underway submarine near shore. So it's unusual to see not only one, but two submarines, underway without any escort.
3/28/2019: Drottninskar Citadel
After a failed Danish invasion in 1679, Sweden established a navy base at Karlskrona for better control over the Baltic Sea. Drottninskar Citadel was built in 1680 to defend the entrance to that base.
3/28/2019: Stena Vision
The huge 575ft (175m) car and passenger ferry Stena Vision arriving into Karlskrona from Gdynia, Poland.
3/28/2019: Crew on Deck
The submarine we were following had pulled off to the side to allow the Stena Vision to pass, with crew on deck preparing for arrival.
3/28/2019: Limin'
Spitfire enjoying the calm seas and sunny weather. He's still best on the boat at limin'
3/28/2019: Anchored
Our first Swedish anchorage, along the east side of Tjurko Island just south of Karlskrona. With two days of westerly winds, this was a wonderfully protected spot.
3/28/2019: Kungsholms Fort
Kungsholms Fort was built in 1680 at the same time as Drottninskar Citadel across the waterway, to protect the entrance to the new navy base at Karlskrona. The fort still is owned by the Swedish Navy and is the longest continuously used military base in the world. Roughly center of the picture is the fort's most famous and remarkable feature, a circular harbor.
3/28/2019: Fortifications
Fortifications on the west side of Kungsholms Fort.
3/28/2019: Tender
Our tender tide off at Drottninskar Citadel. The Swedish Navy no longer owns this property, so visitors are allowed ashore unescorted.
3/28/2019: World Heritage Site
The bridge to Drottninskar Citadel. Karlskrona and its defenses are part of the "Naval Port of Karlskrona" Unesco World Heritage site, designated in 1988 for being an outstanding example of a late-17th-century European planned naval city. Also included are fortifications in several offlying islands.
3/28/2019: Fog
A fog bank rolling on over Kungsholms Fort.
3/28/2019: Lokanabben Hamn
A few fishboats were moored at Lokanabben Hamn, but most of the several dozen pleasure craft berths were empty.
3/28/2019: Ferry
We could see the distinctive yellow ferry running to the islands south of Karlskrona from a long way off.
3/28/2019: God Natt Fortress Tower
The God Natt (Swedish for 'Good Night') fortress tower was completed in 1863 for military security of the navy port entrance.
3/28/2019: Swedish Navy
The base at Karlskrona is the largest in the Swedish Navy, with many large ships moored inside. The unusual ships on the left are two Visby-class corvettes, designed as a stealth ship to be minimally visible on radar and infrared.
3/28/2019: Alamedan
Stairs leading up from the water to Alamedan street in Karlskrona. The statue visible is a memorial to Hans Wachtmeister, who was admiral general of the Swedish Navy in the late 1600s.
3/28/2019: Stumholmen
Lighthouse on Stumholmen Island, formerly part of the navy base, but now open to the public.
3/28/2019: Maritime Museum
The national naval museum on Stumholmen Island. We plan to visit tomorrow.
3/28/2019: Ericsson
One of several large interconnected Ericsson buildings in Karlskrona. The company is headquartered in Stockholm, but has had a factory in Karlskrona since 1947.
3/28/2019: Amfitrite
The Swedish Coast Guard is headquartered at Karlskrona and we saw several of their boats moored there. Most impressive was 265ft (81m) multipurpose vessel Amfitrite.
3/28/2019: Guest Harbour
Our tender moored at Karlskrona guest harbour.
3/28/2019: Fountain
Fountain on Norra Kungsgatan. We had a nice lunch nearby at Toro Bar and Grill.
3/28/2019: Gamla Mastkranen
The nine-story high Gamla Mastkranen (the Old Mast Crane) on the left, and Femfingerdockan (the Five-Finger dock) at center, are both part of the Karlskrona Unesco World Heritage site. Femfingerdockan was constructed in the 1750s to provide covered accommodation on land for the vast fleet being assembled at that time. Gamla Mastkranen's complicated mastcrane apparatus of capstans, winding gear, windlasses, etc, designed for manual operation, remains in place today. Both are on Swedish Navy property and accessible only through a guided tour, something we're about two months too early for. :)
3/28/2019: Nattraby River
Enjoying a relaxing and sheltered run up the Nattraby River, northwest of Karlskrona. The temperature is about 45°F (7.2°C) but we're bundled up and are plenty warm.
3/28/2019: Nattraby Church
Nattraby Church along the Nattraby River dates from the 12th century. Depths became too shallow for us to proceed much beyond this point.
3/28/2019: Ljungskar
The gunpowder magazine on Ljungskar, completed in 1734.
3/28/2019: Karlskrona Port
The ferry Stena Vision, that passed us earlier today, moored at Karlskrona Port.
3/28/2019: NKT
The NKT high-tension cable factory. NKT manufactures communications and power cables. This particular plant focuses on high-voltage power cables.
3/29/2019: Sunrise
A beautiful sunrise from our anchorage along the east side of Tjurko Island, just south of Karlskrona. We're loving being back out "in the wilds" again.
3/29/2019: Marinmuseum
In Karlskrona at Marinmuseum, Sweden's national naval museum.
3/29/2019: Loading Cannon
The Marinmuseum features an in-depth history of Swedish naval technology throughout the centuries with excellent models, displays and dioramas.
3/29/2019: Figureheads
The Marinmuseum's fabulous figurehead display.
3/29/2019: Neptun
The star of the Marinmuseum is Neptun, a Nacken-class submarine that went into service in 1980 and was decommissioned in 1998. All of her equipment and interiors have been preserved and museum visitors can walk through the ship.

The Swedish Navy is renowned for its submarine technology, particularly in building extremely quiet vessels that are difficult to detect. Over two years of war games with the US in 2005-2006, the Swedish submarine HSMS Gotland made repeated undetected attack runs on, and sank (virtually), the aircraft carrier USS Ronald Reagan, opposing destroyers and nuclear submarines.
3/29/2019: X-Rudder
The Neptun has an X-rudder, like the one we saw on the research submarine USS Albacore in Portsmouth in 2016.
3/29/2019: Fresnel Lens
The 4-th order Fresnel Lens from the Utklippan lighthouse, on display at the Marinmuseum in Karlskrona.
3/29/2019: Utklippan
Next to the Utklippan Fresnel lens, the museum shows the web cam from the top of the lighthouse. Visitors to the museum a couple of days ago would have seen us there.
3/29/2019: Governor's House
The County Governor's House, built in 1909-1911.
3/29/2019: Gubben Rosenbom
The 'Old Man Rosenbom' statue, with arm outstretched for alms, is a landmark in Karlskrona. This is a 1956 replica of the original statue that has been standing outside since the 18th-century and was moved inside to protect it from the weather.
3/29/2019: Admiralstorn
The Karlskrona Admiralstorn (Admiralty Clock) was built in 1699. A disused railway from the naval shipyard runs underneath it into a tunnel that emerges on the north side of town.
3/29/2019: Stortorget
Looking east along Stortorget, Karlskrona's huge main square, built to rival Europe's best. On the left is the church Fredrikskyrkan, part of the Unesco World Heritage site, and on the right is the church Trefaldighetskyrkan, built to resemble Rome's Pantheon.
3/29/2019: Trefaldighetskyrkan
Looking to the organ and up into the domed ceiling inside dramatic Trefaldighetskyrkan.
3/29/2019: Fredrikskyrkan
The elegant baroque-style church Fredrikskyrkan recently underwent an extensive renovation and is just stunning inside.
3/29/2019: Organ
A close-up to the gilded organ inside Fredrikskyrkan.
3/29/2019: Ronnebygatan
Striking pastel-coloured building at the corner of Ronnebygatan and Norra Smedjegatan.
3/29/2019: Studs
It doesn't feel much like winter right now, but most of the vehicles in Karlskrona have studded tires, indicating snow either isn't far past or is expected. (Studs are metallic or ceramic spikes embedded in the tire to increase traction in hard-packed snow or ice.)
3/29/2019: Stars and Stripes
We stopped in for a beer at Stars and Stripes, and ended up staying for dinner and enjoying their excellent burgers.
3/30/2019: Sunrise
Another spectacular sunrise. We really enjoyed the anchorage east of Tjurko Island.
3/30/2019: Bridge
Passing under the bridge between Mocklo and Vasternas islands.
3/30/2019: Shallow
The waters in this area are quite shallow. We saw as low at 7.4ft at one point.
3/30/2019: Steps
We've seen these concrete steps at several places along shore. It is common practice in Sweden to anchor off the stern and bring the bow to shore to get on and off the boat. Likely these steps are to help with that.
3/30/2019: Cable Ferry
The cable ferry skipper slackened the line as we crossed, then passed behind us.
3/30/2019: Packless Shaft Seal
Since the propeller shaft was replaced last year, we have a bit of a shaft vibration. The only solution is to pull the shaft yet again and either get it aligned properly or, if that is not possible, replace it. We hate the idea of replacing a one-year-old and fairly expensive prop shaft but that is the likely outcome. We're trying to limp it along until the next time we lift Dirona out of the water. The Packless Shaft Seal (PSS) leaks a bit underway due to the vibration but it's mostly not a problem.

Recently the amount it's leaking has gone up and there is carbon in the leaked water, suggesting the PSS seal is starting to wear fairly aggressively. The PSS seal appears to be adjusted excessively tightly and, as a consequence, it's showing accelerated wear. Here James is backing off the PSS bellows tension but we suspect that moving it back to the correct tension will allow the out-of-true prop shaft to cause even more leaking. More than likely we'll be struggling to find the balance on this one and, hopefully, won't discover that wear over the last year has rendered the PSS no longer able to seal effectively.
3/30/2019: Hastholmen-Ytteron Nature Reserve
Anchored for a couple of nights in the Hastholmen-Ytteron Nature Reserve. Much of the area we've travelled through was a restricted military zone until 1997. Just to our west is Torumskar Island, where an international incident occurred in 1981 when a local fisherman discovered the Soviet submarine U137 aground there. After two weeks of investigations and diplomatic negotiations, the ship was refloated and left Swedish waters.
3/31/2019: Spares
The generator temperature sender is producing erratic results, so we'll replace it with a spare. This Really Useful Box, stowed under the stateroom stairs, contains most of our small Northern Lights replacement parts.
3/31/2019: Changing Antifreeze
In order to change the temperature sending unit, some antifreeze needs to be drained. It's due for a change anyway, so here James is draining all the coolant to be replaced with a fresh load of Coolgard ES Compleat premix.
4/1/2019: Moonrise
A sliver of a moon rising over the Baltic.
4/1/2019: Utlangan Lighthouse
The Utlangan Island lighthouse shining above the treetops at dawn as we exit the Karlskrona Archipelago.
4/1/2019: Swedish Navy
A Swedish Navy ship approached us at speed on our way north to Kalmar. We were expecting our US ensign would trigger an inspection, but they just gave us a close look in the binoculars as they continued past.
4/1/2019: Nearing Kalmar
Nearing Kalmar, with the Oland Bridge visible on the right. The 19,921 ft (6,072 m) bridge was the longest in Europe when completed in 1972. Kalmar Castle is visible at left.
4/1/2019: Kalmar Castle From Sea
Kalmar Castle evolved from a 12th-century fortified tower to a 16th-century medieval castle and has played a crucial part in Swedish history since its initial construction.
4/1/2019: Swedish Agro
Swedish Agro facility along the Kalmar waterfront. The company specialises in the sale of plant protection to arable farms throughout Sweden.
4/1/2019: Grimskar
Fortifications on the island of Grimskar just northeast of Kalmar Castle. Blog reader Marcus Oldin told us the island initially was used to protect the castle and town from attacks by sea and later, between the end World War II to the 1980s, was a secret underground mine station.
4/1/2019: Kalmar Harbour
The view as we enter Kalmar Harbor. The large building at the center is an old steam mill and the upper half of Kalmar Cathedral is visible at left.
4/1/2019: Maritime Academy
Several practice rescue boats outside the Kalmar Maritime Academy.
4/1/2019: Marcus Oldin
We pulled into an excellent berth right in the center of Kalmar, full of people having lunch outside on the warm and sunny day. Blog reader and Kalmar resident Marcus Oldin had been tracking our progress and was on hand to greet us when we arrived. He even brought us a selection of local craft beer. What a wonderful welcome!
4/1/2019: Nine By Nine
Our berth in Kalmar has only 10-amp power, but two outlets are avaialbe. So with our dual shore-power system we have each of our chargers running at nine amps (bottom right), for a total of eighteen. We can run well on that, and even do laundry. (Kalmar does have 16A power on the south side of the harbour, but that side is under construction.)
4/1/2019: Gamla Hamnen
Moored at Gamla Hamnen in downtown Kalmar. The blue pylons are to maximize space in the marina—during the busy season boats typically moor bow to the wall with the stern end tied to the pylons, similar to med-mooring.
4/1/2019: Moat
Looking southeast across the Kalmar castle moat. The castle was involved in a number of conflicts, and played a pivotal role in Scandinavian history as the site where the Kalmar Union was signed in 1397, forming a union of Denmark, Norway and Sweden (including Finland). The castle was badly damaged in the 17th-century Kalmar War and a later fire, and fell into disrepair in the late 1700s. Restoration work begin in the mid-1800s and today it is one of Sweden's best preserved renaissance castles.
4/1/2019: Anchor
Jennifer with a large ship's anchor outside Kalmar Castle.
4/1/2019: Medieval Kalmar
Model inside Kalmar Castle showing the medieval walled city and the castle beyond. The area where we are moored is on the other side of the river to the left of the city. Kalmar was one of Sweden's most important cities between from the 13th to the 17th centuries and its city seal, dating from the mid-1200s, is the oldest known in Scandinavia.
4/1/2019: Queen's Suite
The ornate Danish bed (captured from the Danes after a battle) in the Queen's Suite is the only surviving original furniture in Kalmar Castle. The castle is huge, as our its rooms. We're not often in a bedroom big enough to hold our entire boat.
4/1/2019: Checkered Room
The incredibly detailed inlaid wall panels of the Checkered Room at Kalmar Castle were made with 17 different types of wood, each a slightly different hue.
4/1/2019: Gray Hall
The table in the Gray Hall, the dining room, is set for an Easter feast based on a detailed account by one visitor who attended an Easter banquet in the castle.
4/1/2019: King's Chambers
The elaborately decorated King's Chambers has more beautiful inlaid wood panels.
4/1/2019: Golden Hall
The Golden Hall is so named for it's magnificent golden coffered ceiling, completed in 1576.
4/1/2019: Chapel
The elegant Kalmar Castle chapel is one of Sweden's most popular wedding venues.
4/1/2019: Cannons
Cannons guarding the ramparts at Kalmar Castle.
4/1/2019: Cannon Balls
Embedded in the south wall are cannon balls, possibly from the Kalmar War with the Danes, who held the castle from 1611-1613.
4/1/2019: HSwMS Carlskrona
The HSwMS Carlskrona passing by island of Grimskar. The 347 ft (105.7 m) ship is the longest vessel in the Swedish Navy and the largest built at Karlskrona Shipyard.
4/1/2019: Black-Headed Gull
Handsome black-headed gull on the Kalmar Castle grounds.
4/1/2019: Old Kalmar
Walking the cobblestone streets dating from medieval Kalmar.
4/1/2019: Water Tower
Kalmar's first water tower, constructed 1897-1900, was in use until 1972. The tower was converted into apartments in the 1980's and now contains 11 apartments of different sizes.
4/1/2019: Alpine Squill
Spring has arrived in Kalmar, with blue alpine squill and other wildflowers blooming everywhere.
4/1/2019: Dinner
We had an excellent dinner over a bottle of Nebbiolo at Ernesto Ristorante. The focaccia and pizza from their wood-fired oven, visible on the right, was superb.
4/1/2019: Evening
A beautiful evening in Kalmar. We initially planned to spend only two nights, but have already decided to stay a third.
4/2/2019: Road Trip
About to cross Oland Bridge on a road trip to the island of Oland, the second largest island in Sweden.
4/2/2019: Kalla Gamla Kyrka
The Gamla Kyrka (old church) in Kalla in northern Oland dates from the 13th century.
4/2/2019: Kalla Kyrka
Kalla Kyrka (church) was completed in 1888 to replace Kalla Gamla Kyrka that needed extensive renovations.
4/2/2019: Trollskogen
Walking through pine trees the extensive and beautiful Trollskogen (the enchanted forest) at the northern top of Oland.
4/2/2019: Beach
Oland is famous for it's beaches—one guide lists 55 around the island. Swedes flock there in the summer.
4/2/2019: Oak Tree
Interspersed with the pine trees at Trollskogen are centuries-old oak trees.
4/2/2019: Wood Mould Box
A wood mould box, filled with sawdust and leaves, provides a habitat for wood-living insects.
4/2/2019: Lange Erik
A light has stood at Oland's norther tip since the 17th century. The current light, built of limestone, was completed in 1845.
4/2/2019: Byrums Raukar
Sea stacks and weather-shaped rocks along the northwest coast of Oland.
4/2/2019: Limestone Quarry
Quarries old and new are along along Oland's western coast. Limestone has been quarried on Oland since the 13th century, used domestically and also exported to Denmark, Poland and Germany. Production was particularly high during medieval times because a large number of churches were being built in Northern Europe.
4/2/2019: Gillberga Quarry
Looking down into the huge Gillberga Quarry with its 55ft-high (17m) walls. A portion of the quarry in the far right corner is used as an amphitheater for live concerts.
4/2/2019: Slabs
Thousands of limestone slabs stood off the road just south of Sandvik.
4/2/2019: Sandvik
This Dutch-style windmill in Sandvik is one of the largest in the world.
4/2/2019: Rock Piles
Hundreds and hundreds of rock piles stretched alongside the road just south of Sandvik.
4/2/2019: Gamla Televerket
Only one indoor table was left at popular Gamla Televerket when we arrived for lunch. It was a tiny menu, but quite good.
4/2/2019: Borgholm
Borgholm Church, on the town's main square, opened in 1879.
4/2/2019: Queen Victoria
Memorial to Sweden's Queen Victoria, who built nearby Solliden Palace where the Swedish Royal Family spend a large part of their summer holidays.
4/2/2019: Borgholm Castle
Massive Borgholm Castle dates from the 13th century and can be seen for miles on Oland.
4/2/2019: Castle Model
Beautiful wood model of Borgholm Castle at the visitor center.
4/2/2019: Entry
Looking between the inner and outer castle walls just inside the entry. A fire destroyed the castle in 1806 after a century of disuse.
4/2/2019: Tower
Inside one of the four tower's in Borgholm Castle. The building is absolutely vast, and was fun to wander through.
4/2/2019: Museum
An excellent museum is built into the castle ruins, detailing the 900-year history of the building.
4/2/2019: Complete Model
A model inside the museum showing what Borgholm Castle looked like when completed.
4/2/2019: Well
A source of freshwater is critical for a castle, in order to withstand a siege. Borgholm Castle's well is estimated to be 177 ft (54m) deep, with the base about 45ft (14m) below sea level.
4/2/2019: Throne
Queen Jennifer.
4/2/2019: View to Borgholm
The sweeping view to Borgholm from the upper floor of the castle.
4/2/2019: Courtyard
Looking down into the courtyard of Borgholm Castle. A number of major bands such as ABBA, Bob Dylan and Roxette have played concerts here.
4/2/2019: Ismanstorps Borg
Ismanstorps Borg is the most well-preserved of Oland's 20 ancient ring forts, dating from 300-600AD. The foundation is 416ft (127 m) in diameter and 8.2ft (2.5m) high. Inside the foundations of 95 houses still are intact.
4/2/2019: Tree
This gnarled tree looked striking set against the clear blue sky.
4/2/2019: Windmills
2,000 windmills once stood on Oland—almost every farm had one. Today about 350 remain all over the island.
4/2/2019: Graborg
Graborg is the largest Iron Age ring fort in the country, with the walls measuring 2,100ft (640m) around.
4/2/2019: Karlevi Runestone
The Karlevi Runestone is estimated to date from the 10th century and is the only example of a complete Skaldic (Norse poet) stanza preserved on a runestone.
4/2/2019: Farjestaden
Farjestaden is the largest town on Oland. Its many seaside restaurants still were closed for the winter.
4/2/2019: Oland Bridge
The Oland Bridge viewed from Farjestaden. The 19,921 ft (6,072 m) bridge was the longest in Europe when completed in 1972.
4/2/2019: Kalmarsund VIII
The Kalmarsund VIII operated between Oland and Kalmar before the bridge was built.
4/2/2019: Aristotelis Agrotis
Aristotelis Agrotis dropped by Dirona last night and invited us to visit him at his restaurant, Krogers. Here he and James stand in front of the beautiful bar he had shipped from the UK. Aristotelis is interested in Nordhavns and we enjoyed a great meal with him discussing topics ranging from boat ownership to exotic cars to why he migrated from Cyprus to Kalmar.
4/3/2019: Water
Filling up our freshwater tanks. As in Newport, RI, we're a little early in the season and the city hasn't turned the water on yet. So the marina manager, Janne Hammarkvist, ran a long hose out to us from their service building.
4/3/2019: Installing Moorings
Most Swedish harbors use a variant of Med-mooring where boats are aligned side by side with their ends against a pier. The most common approach in Sweden is to go bow-in rather than the more typical stern-in common in the Mediterranean, but it's otherwise pretty similar.

Most of the Swedish harbors we've seen have a mooring on the seaward side making it easier to get tied off. One end of the boat is tied to the mooring and the other end is attached to shore with the boat position adjusted so that it's close enough to shore to allow boarding but not so close to shore that the boat hits the pier when influenced by wind or swell. Here you can the installation process where large weights anchor down the blue buoys that are arrayed along the pier. Early in the year where there aren't many visiting boats, the more conventional side tie is used and that's how Dirona is currently tied off.
4/3/2019: Kalmar Cathedral
Work on Kalmar Cathedral began in 1660, while the town was transferring to a new location a little east of the castle after a devastating fire destroyed the old town. Due to wars and other delays, construction wasn't completed until 1703. The cathedral stands across the town square, Stortorget, from the town hall.
4/3/2019: Cathedral Interior
Kalmar Cathedral is spectacular inside. The ornate and lavishly decorated pulpit on the left is particularly impressive.
4/3/2019: Organ
The beautiful main organ is one of three in Kalmar Cathedral.
4/3/2019: Cannons
Cannons from the Swedish warship Kronan on display at the Kalmar County Museum. The Kronan was the flagship of the Swedish Navy and sunk in battle of Oland island in 1676. The wreck was rediscovered in 1980 and since then tens of thousands of wonderfully preserved items have been salvaged from the ship.
4/3/2019: Kronan Excavation
An excellent display at the Kalmar County Museum detailing the sinking and the excavation of the Kronan.
4/3/2019: Kronan Model
The Kronan was a huge ship—the biggest ever built in Sweden at the time and one of the most technologically advanced ships of the time. The Kronan carried 110-114 bronze cannons and had a crew of 850. Nearly 800 went down with the ship when it sank.
4/3/2019: Wall
Walking the wall that surrounded Kalmar's second location.
4/3/2019: Kaggensgatan
Looking north along Kaggensgatan in Kalmar from the city wall.
4/3/2019: Ferrari 488 GTB
Aristotelis Agrotis came by to visit us today in his 2018 Ferrari 488 GTB. I had jokingly suggested a trade where we show him around Dirona and he'll take us out for a ride his Ferarri. Aristotelis knew I was joking but couldn't resist dropping by with the Ferrari.

I used to service Ferraris back when I was an auto mechanic so I've driven many, but not been out in one in the last decade. A lot has changed. The 488 has massive carbon ceramic brakes and the 3.9 liter V8 puts out 661 HP. In an under 3300 lb (1500 kg) car, it's extremely responsive. Ferarris have always been fast, but the newer cars have taken it to a higher level. And, what's really different, is they are easy to drive. The cars idle well, and can lug around fine in traffic at only 1,000 RPM. The 7-speed paddle-shifted dual clutch transmission is wonderful and allows the car to be comfortable in heavy traffic while still being blistering fast with 0 to 62 MPH (100 kph) in 3.0 seconds and a blistering 10.45 second standing-start quarter mile.
4/3/2019: Aristotelis Agrotis Visit
After the highway run in the Ferrari 488 GTB, Aristotelis and I switched gears to the 9.5 kts Nordhavn 52. The Ferrari can do a 1/4 mile from a standing start in 10.45 seconds whereas Dirona will clock in closer to 85 seconds with a good hole shot. However, Dirona can do 4,000 nautical miles between fuelings. We had a great time talking boats and cars and I fully expect to see Aristotelis sometime in the future in his Nordhavn.
4/3/2019: Lilla Puben
Having a drink at cozy Lilla Puben in Kalmar. The walls are decorated with over 700 different varieties and brands of beer.
4/3/2019: Grona Stugan
We had an excellent meal at Grona Stugan on the Kalmar waterfront. Dirona is visible in the distance in the center of the photo.
4/4/2019: Oland Bridge
Passing under Oland Bridge just after a 5am departure from Kalmar.
4/4/2019: Sillasen Lighthouse
Passing close to the Sillasen Lighthouse at dawn.
4/4/2019: Sunrise
Sunrise over the island of Oland.
4/4/2019: Borgholm Castle
Borgholm Castle on the island of Oland is a distinctive landmark for miles.
4/4/2019: Oskarshamn Nuclear Power Site
On this site is a spent nuclear materials storage facility, and three power generation reactors. The first reactor at Oskarshamn Nuclear Power Plant was completed in 1972, the second in 1975 and a third in 1985. The first two have since been closed due to high operating costs compared to wind power. The third reactor needs extensive modernizations to continue operating beyond 2020.
4/4/2019: Rocks Awash
Nasty-looking rocks awash as we enter the the Misterhult Archipelago just off Krakelund.
4/4/2019: Misterhult Archipelago
Fabulous scenery as we pass through dozens of small island in the Misterhult Archipelago en route to our anchorage off Karingskaret. The 2000-island archipelago is consdidered among the most beautiful in the world.
4/4/2019: Marks
The channels amongst the islets in the Misterhult Archipelago are complex, shallow and winding. Some are marked in detail, but most aren't.
4/4/2019: Swedish Coast Guard
A Swedish Coast Guard vessel passed in the distance. We expected our US flag would catch their interest, and it did.
4/4/2019: Boarding
The Swedish Coast Guard vessel did an abrupt turn and headed towards us. When they were close, the officer asked if they could board. The skipper carefully brought their ship up close so they could board at the pilot house level.
4/4/2019: Inspection
A friendly visit from the Swedish Coast Guard to check our paperwork. They wanted to see our passports, including Spitfire's, and the ship's papers.
4/4/2019: Departing
We passed muster and the Swedish Coast Guard were on and off in ten minutes.
4/4/2019: Karingskaret
Enjoying happy hour on deck at a beautiful anchorage off Karingskaret in the Misterhult Archipelago. We had the patio heater on, but it was warm enough at 47°F (8.36°C) we didn't really need it with our Mustang 2175s and ate dinner on deck without it.
4/4/2019: Spitfire
Spitfire enjoying the sunset.
4/4/2019: Sunset
Fabulous sunset from the anchorage off Karingskaret in the Misterhult Archipelago.
4/5/2019: Sunrise
Beautiful pink sunrise off Karingskaret.
4/5/2019: Speed Limit
On our way to the next anchorage, we passed a small basin full of moorings with a speed limit sign. It must get busy here in the summer season.
4/5/2019: Underway
Underway in Sweden's Misterhult Archipelago on a beautiful, calm and sunny day.
4/5/2019: Islets
Islets east of Strupo island aglow in the morning sun.
4/5/2019: Swans
Much of the northern Misterhult Archipelago where we are is a nature reserve, rich in birdlife. Out on a tender tour, we saw many nesting swans and other waterfowl.
4/5/2019: Village
Small village tucked into a sheltered cove on the island of Strupo.
4/5/2019: Ring
A common anchoring technique in Sweden is to anchor off the stern with a bow line a shore, the opposite of stern-tying, commonly done in busy Pacific Northwest anchorages. We were expecting to see lots of rings in the shore to tie off to, but only found this one that looked much beefier than needed.
4/5/2019: Tender
Bundled up in our Mustang 2175s for a tender trip through the Misterhult Archipelago in 47°F (8.36°C). We're putting our winter boating techniques to good use, but this isn't even close to the coldest weather we've been out in.
4/5/2019: Dirona
Looking across the islets west of the island of Strupo to our anchorage.
4/5/2019: Coast Guard
Near sunset we saw a Coast Guard approaching slowly. We were expecting another inspection, but it was the same boat as before. They were just passing slowly, likely to avoid rocking our boat, and sped up beyond the anchorage after giving us a friendly wave.
4/5/2019: Sunset
Another spectacular Swedish sunset in the Misterhult Archipelago.
4/6/2019: Sidelight
We use bright 75-watt LED floodlights on the boat deck and off the sides of the boat. The purpose of the boat deck lights is to allow safe loading and unloading or other work on the boat deck or at the back of the boat at night. Over the years, two of these four lights have failed. 150-watt lights of similar design are now available, so rather than replacing our spares with the same, we've picked up a couple of new 150-watt lights that we're using for the sidelights. The 75-watt lights are more than bright enough for the boat deck—in fact we really only need one of them. But moving to 150 watts on the sidelight allows them to punch further through darkness. Here's the new sidelights in action, lighting up the shore a fair distance away as we depart our anchorage before sunrise.
4/6/2019: Reroute
We'd planned to run to Gotland this morning for a couple of nights, but the forecast had deteriorated for our planned return on Monday, so we opted to continue north.
4/6/2019: Light
Light at the southern end of the Vastervik Archipelago.
4/6/2019: Sparo
Beacon and lighthouse on the island of Sparo.
4/6/2019: Sparosund
Nearing narrow and beautiful Sparosund.
4/6/2019: Navy Buildings
The buildings on the west side of Sparosund once were owned by the Swedish Navy. Blog reader Robert Lindberg spent several summers there in the 1980s and recommended we take the passage. It really was beautiful, particularly in the morning light.
4/6/2019: Tallskarshalet Ned
Tallskarshalet Ned beacon just north of the channel Sparosund.
4/6/2019: Hasselo Sand
Moored at Hasselo Sand off the island of Hasselo.
4/6/2019: Guest Jetty
Our tender tied off at the guest jetty at Hasselo Sand beach.
4/6/2019: Cargo Bike
Many islanders use modified scooters where the front section is replaced with a cargo platform. We suspect this probably was the common form of transit on the island years ago, but four-wheel ATVs have largely replaced them.
4/6/2019: Trail to Vikarklinten
Walking the trail to the hill Vikarklinten on the island of Hasselo. We bundled up, but with sunshine, no wind and 49°F (9.4°C) temperatures, the day was warm enough that we started shedding layers.
4/6/2019: Vikarklinten View
At 28m, the hill Vikarklinten is the highest point in the island and has nice views from the summit.
4/6/2019: Dirona
We could just see Dirona at anchor from the top Vikarklinten.
4/6/2019: Farmhouses
The island of Hasselo has a fairly substantial residential population scattered over the island in homesteads like this one. Nearly every building we saw was painted red with white trim.
4/6/2019: Garden Djupsvederna
An interpretive sign, only in Swedish, indicated this homestead on Hasselo and perhaps this exact house, had been inhabited since the early 1800s.
4/6/2019: Below Grade
One of several buildings, presumably for food storage, built almost entirely below grade.
4/6/2019: Birdhouse
Even the birdhouses on Hasselo are painted red with white trim.
4/6/2019: Bay
Evening sun lighting a small bay on the east side of Hasselo.
4/6/2019: Sensor
Throughout the island of Hasselo are gravel sections that appear to be covering a hole with a metal stake standing over it. The metal stake has three electrical connections. We're guessing these are permanently-installed sensors where a meter can be plugged in, but haven't figured out what the sensors are detecting.
4/6/2019: Logs
At many places all over the island, very selective and neat logging is underway.
4/6/2019: Woods
Passing through the woods on the southern end of Hasselo.
4/6/2019: The Thirsty Winterswan
Our final destination for our walking tour of Hasselo was the exclusive pub "The Thirsty Winterswan". It's only open in the fall, winter and spring, and only for 3 hours a week: on Saturdays from 4pm to 7pm. We were trying not to get our hopes up too much in case it wasn't open, but the concept appealed to us greatly and we were really looking forward to it.
4/6/2019: Locals
In the winter, locals arrives at The Thirsty Winterswan on snowmobiles and pack inside the small pub, but in today's balmy 49°F (9.4°C) weather, everyone was outside. We had an absolutely fabulous time enjoying the view and talking with the other patrons. What a unique experience.
4/6/2019: Hot Tub
In the summer, the pub owners run a popular restaurant, Sjokanten, bringing people over by boat from the nearby city of Vastervik. It sounds a bit like Peats Bite near Sidney Australia. At Sjokanten, you can soak in the hot tub before dinner.
4/6/2019: View
Looking southeast from the waterfront at The Thirsty Winterswan.
4/6/2019: Sauna
Saunas are extremely popular in Sweden. This one on the property of The Thirsty Winterswan follows a common barrel design.
4/6/2019: Sunset
Golden scene at sunset as we walk back to the tender.
4/6/2019: Evening Calm
What little wind was blowing this morning had fallen off completely and the sunset reflected wonderfully in the still waters off our anchorage at Hasselo Sand.
4/7/2019: Dawn
Dawn from the anchorage at Hasselo Sand.
4/7/2019: Jungfrusund
Passing through narrow and scenic Jungfrusund. The light here is unusual in that the beacon on the left side of the channel shines a light onto a mirror mounted on the right side that reflects the light north and south.
4/7/2019: Sundsholmen
Traditional red houses on Sundsholmen.
4/7/2019: Model Ship
The passage through Jungfrusund is known for being scenic and for the beautiful model ships in the windows of one of the houses on Sundsholmen.
4/7/2019: Cormorants
Hundreds of cormorants filled the trees and the skies around tiny Lilla Kallskar, busy building nests for the upcoming breeding season.
4/7/2019: Pleasure Craft
This Beneteau Swift Trawler is the first pleasure craft we've seen underway since arriving in Sweden. We're apparently pretty early in the season even for the hardy Swedes. :)
4/7/2019: Permethrin
In Amsterdam we were vaccinated for TBE (tick-borne encephalitis). But Lyme disease also in prevalent in Sweden, Finland and eastern Europe and no vaccination is available. An addition other precautions, we're applying Permethrin to our hiking boots and clothes to hopefully ward off any ticks while we are out hiking.
4/7/2019: Mossen
At anchor off the south shore of the island of Mossen. The winds are blowing from the north, so this gives us good shelter with interesting views.
4/7/2019: Art
Statue guarding the narrow passage along the east side of our anchorage.
4/7/2019: Tender
The tender tied off in the north cove at Gubbo Kupa, just north of our anchorage.
4/7/2019: Climbing Chain
Climbing chain to reach the cairn at the top of Gubbo Kupa.
4/7/2019: Gubbo Kupa
The fabulous view looking south from the cairn on Gubbo Kupa. The cairn is a navigation mark and has been in place since 1826. It replaces a older beacon that burned down in 1813. Descriptions of the beacon as a navigation mark have been as early as 1644 and it believed that a beacon stood here medieval times as part of a warning system where the beacon could be lit to warn of an oncoming enemy fleet. (Click image to enlarge.)
4/7/2019: Cabin
Looking down onto what is likely a summer caretaker's cabin on Gubbo Kupa.
4/7/2019: Shackle
We found many shackles and rings mounted into the shoreline at Gubbo Kupa. The anchorage here is popular in the summer, but is exposed to the northerly winds today.
4/7/2019: Moored
The trawler that passed earlier was arriving into a cove on the south side of Gubbo Kupa when we first passed in the tender and was moored there when we passed by later. Possibly they tried the more popular anchorage on the north side but found it too exposed.
4/7/2019: Stern-Anchored
The trawler is moored using the common Swedish approach of using a stern anchor and running the bow right up to land with a bow line ashore.
4/7/2019: Cairn
The cairn on Gubbo Kupa is visible and distinctive from a long way off.
4/7/2019: Happy Hour
Enjoying happy hour in the warm and sunny cockpit. With the temperature just over 50°F (10°C), we didn't even need the patio heater on.
4/7/2019: Picnic Table
While relaxing in the cockpit we noticed this wonderful picnic table with a 360° view on a hill to our east. (CLick image to enlarge.)
4/8/2019: Narrow
Exiting the anchorage at the narrow channel we took the tender through yesterday.
4/8/2019: Femore Battery
Femore Battery was built in the 1960s as part of a series of 30 forts built in Sweden to defend against a Cold War Soviet attack. You can't see much from this side, but the facility is 36,000 sq ft (3,300 sq m) in size with a 1,480 ft (450 m) tunnel running from one end to the other. The armament included three 75 mm turret gun capable of firing 7.6 miles (12.2km).
4/8/2019: Pilot
Pilot boat returning to Oxelosund.
4/8/2019: Shandong Fu Ren
Shandong Fu Ren unloading coal from China at SSAB's Oxelosund steelworks.
4/8/2019: Oxelosund Steel Works
View to part of SSAB's massive Oxelosund steelworks facility. The plant was established in 1913 and today is the leading producer of high-strength steel in the Nordic countries with 2,500 employees.
4/8/2019: Dock
This substantial dock and a well-built road on what appeared to be an otherwise deserted small island, Lilla Runnskar, must have been for military purposes. Nobody else would invest that much.
4/8/2019: Eagle
Our first eagle spotting in Sweden.
4/8/2019: Evening Sun
The evening sun lighting up the anchorage at Stendorren Nature Reserve.
4/9/2019: Suspension Bridge
Stendorren Nature Reserve encompasses most of the land around our anchorage. The reserve has trails throughout with suspension bridges connecting the smaller islets to the mainland.
4/9/2019: Stendorren Nature Reserve
Our tender moored at Stendorren Nature Reserve with one of the reserves many bridges on the right.
4/9/2019: Boardwalk
Jennifer walking on a plank boardwalk across a marshy field.
4/9/2019: Stora Krokholmen
Walking the suspension bridge to the island Stora Krokholmen, that we passed under earlier in the tender.
4/9/2019: At Anchor
Our beautiful anchorage at Stendorren Nature Reserve, viewed from the trail around Stora Krokholmen
4/9/2019: Picnic Area
One of several substantial picnic areas we passed in Stendorren Nature Reserve, complete with cooking barbecue.
4/9/2019: Canoe Launch
Canoe launch in Stendorren Nature Reserve.
4/9/2019: Bridge
Jennifer enjoying the view from a bridge connecting one of the small islets in Stendorren Nature Reserve to the mainland.
4/9/2019: Frozen
The temperature is about 35°F (1.5°C) and the water in this ditch is still frozen.
4/9/2019: Log Pile
The best-looking firewood stack we've ever seen.
4/9/2019: Fence Building
The fences in the area look built in a very traditional way, with the boards set at an angle to the poles and attached with fir branches wound around them. Two people were carefully attaching one as we passed.
4/9/2019: SXK Buoy
The Swedish Cruising Club maintains a number of buoys throughout the Swedish coast. This is one of three at Stendorren Nature Reserve.
4/9/2019: Askpar
Northwest of our anchorage are a series of three suspension bridges connecting Askpar to the mainland.
4/9/2019: Blazes
The trails at Stendorren Nature Reserve are incredibly well-marked.
4/9/2019: Bridges
Looking south from the mainland across the first two of the three suspension bridges that connect Askpar to the mainland. Our tender is moored out of site by the third bridge, also not visible. What a fabulous park—we had a great time exploring it on foot and by tender.
4/9/2019: Tupperware
When we were last out of the water, there was some corrosion on the prop shaft, so we replaced it. Unfortunately, the replacement shaft is not quite within specs and the runout causes the PSS seal to leak. To work around this, the PSS bellows were set way too tight, leading to excessive PSS seal wear. It still leaked but the water that leaks through has carbon in it. We loosened off the PSS seal which reduces wear, but it leaks slightly more. The right answer is to put a new prop shaft in but, until that is done, we think we're better off with the PSS set correctly and leaking a bit more. We believe a dry bilge makes it easier to see other leaks quickly so James cut a Tupperware container to fit under the PSS and collect the drips that get through due to prop shaft runout.
4/9/2019: PSS
The Tupperware container that James cut to fit under the prop shaft. The new prop shaft is only slightly beyond spec but just barely enough that the PSS shaft seal does drip a bit. It's still lets in less water than a conventional shaft seal but it's far from dripless. We use this solution to keep the bilge dry so we can see leaks from any other locations quickly and easily.
4/10/2019: Snow
We awoke this morning to 34°F (1.1°C) weather and a light dusting of snow on deck.
4/10/2019: Spitfire
Spitfire was out exploring on deck with a light snow still falling. You can see it caught in his fur just before he shook it all off.
4/11/2019: Krokskar
Passing the village of Krokskar en route from Stendorren Nature Reserve to the city of Nynashamn.
4/11/2019: Nynas Havsbad
The Nynas Havsbad hotel, overlooking the sea just outside Nynashamn center.
4/11/2019: Approaching Nynashamn
Running the channel towards Nynashamn, with the old water tower prominent on the hill to our left.
4/11/2019: Visby
The Destination Gotland ferry Visby was arriving into port as we were. We're booked to take that boat in two day's time.
4/11/2019: Nynashamn Guest Harbour
Moored at Nynashamn Guest Harbour with the ferry Visby visible in the distance. The marina does have 16- and 32-amp services, but taking two 10-amps made it easier for them to arrange a berth for us, so we went with that. The dual shore-power system is really working out well, particularly in Sweden.
4/11/2019: Waste Oil
Dumping our waste oil at the disposal facility in Nynashamn Guest Harbour. We've built up a couple of pails since dumping our oil in Cuxhaven last fall.
4/11/2019: Nova Star
Polferries' Nova Star arriving into Nynashamn after an overnight 18-hour run from Gdansk, Poland. We love being near a ferry dock and watching the ships come and go. Nynashamn is a ferry terminal for Stockholm, and it's a busy one, even in the off-season.
4/11/2019: Kroken
A delicious lunch at Kroken overlooking the harbour, with locally-brewed craft beer from Nynashamns Angbryggeri.
4/11/2019: Train Station
Trains at Nynashamn station. This is the southernmost tip of the Stockholm commuter rail system.
4/11/2019: Commuter Rail
Station map of the Stockholm commuter rail system. We're in Nynashamn at the bottom right, with Stockholm at the center.
4/11/2019: Church of Nynashamn
The Church of Nynashamn's elegant interior. The church was consecrated in 1930, built entirely from locally-raised funds. We had an enjoyable conversation with Andreas Sjogren, the church's information officer and youth leader, who described the history of the church and their upcoming Easter festivities.
4/11/2019: Nynashamn Harbour
The view to Nynashamn Harbour from the Church of Nynashamn grounds.
4/11/2019: Centralgatan
Looking southeast down Centralgatan through downtown Nynashamn towards the Church of Nynashamn.
4/11/2019: Lovlund
The cottage Lovlund dates from the beginning of 19th century.
4/11/2019: Ferries to Poland
Poland is 300 miles from Nynashamn, but is well-served by ferries.
4/11/2019: Scania Trucks
The Scania truck plant is nearby and here a group of new trucks is waiting shipment by ferry.
4/11/2019: Stena Line
Map showing Stena Line routes in the Nynashamn ferry terminal. We've been to a lot of the places where Stena Line operates, and have seen many of their ships underway or at the dock.
4/11/2019: Summer Kiosks
Walking past summer kiosks at the Nynashamn harbour, still closed up for the winter.
4/11/2019: Snow
The temperature is right around freezing and a light snow has been falling for the past hour. We love it.
4/11/2019: Defrosting
The reverse cycle heating often stops working in water temperatures in the mid- to high-40F range but, once they get started, they usually keep running. We can just use the diesel furnace but a trick James sometimes uses to start an HVAC unit inoperative due to low water temperature is to warm the air around the thermostat. This will turn on the air conditioning and thaw the compressor and then it'll cycle back to heat. Essentially this few seconds of warm air is just enough to force a quick run of air conditioning. About 60 seconds later it'll return to heat. When the water temperature is in the mid to upper 40F range, this works surprisingly well. When the water temps get down closer to 40F the reverse cycle system is ineffective and we just use the diesel furnace.
4/11/2019: Lantz Transport
We're Scania truck fans and so stopped to talk to the driver of this very nicely equipped transport truck hauling lumber in 20ft containers. This truck carries 3 containers and can self load and unload using a simple but fairly innovative approach. When the trailer is disconnected, the tractor can unload the container it's carrying by tilting up the container and slowly lowering it to the ground. Once that container is down and disconnected, the tractor can back up to it's trailer, hook the cable to the next container, and pull that container over to the tractor. Then it can be put down on the ground using the same process used to unload the first container. The third container is handled the same way and loading is the same process in reverse.
4/11/2019: Rail Network
Station map of the entire Stockholm rail system, with the commuter rail system shown in pink and lime. The others are the Metro (underground), trams, and light rail. We are in Nynashamn at the bottom right and Stockholm is at center.
4/11/2019: Asian House
A delicious dinner at Asian House just up from the marina.
4/11/2019: Ferry Traffic
Cars boarding the ferry to Visby the island of Gotland. The run is popular, with 1-2 sailings a day in the winter and up to 6 a day in July.
4/11/2019: Evening Lights
The ferry dock, with two ships in port, lit up wonderfully in the dusk sky.
4/11/2019: Flare-Off
Flare-off at the Nynashamn Oil Refinery north of the main harbour.
4/11/2019: Beacon
The Church of Nynashamn was built on a hill overlooking the water, replacing a beacon, with the idea that the church itself would become a beacon. It worked.
4/12/2019: Freshwater
Freshwater won't be available on the marina pontoons until May, so we moved up to the foot of the dock to fill our freshwater tanks. The hose connection is somewhat permanently installed to the faucet and the other end was fitted with an commercial coupling that we don't have (pictured). So we removed the coupling from the hose and temporarily installed a Gardena fitting to connect to our on-board hoses. When our tanks were full, we re-installed the commercial coupling.
4/12/2019: Gasoline
After filling out water tanks, we moved over to the fuel dock to fill our two portable 29-gallon (110L) gasoline deck tanks. The gas tanks were last filled in Haugesund, Norway in September of last year.
4/12/2019: Groceries
Picking up some fresh produce and a few other items at the local Co-Op grocery store. We haven't shopped since leaving Amsterdam and didn't have a big need for anything, but took the opportunity to top up our supplies.
4/12/2019: Ferries
A Destination Gotland ferry coming onto the dock, with a Polferries and a Stena Line ship already there. Nynashamn is amazingly busy considering it's the off-season. It's hard to imagine what it would be like in the height of the season.
4/12/2019: Old Water Tower
We took a walk to the nearby island of Trehorningen, connected by bridge to the mainland, to take in the view from the olde water tower.
4/12/2019: View
View looking south from the base of the water tower. We were hoping to climb to the top for a better view, but the tower is closed for the winter. We do miss a few opportunities like this when boating in the off-season, but the lack of crowds more than compensate.
4/12/2019: Nynas Havsbad
The Nynas Havsbad hotel pool and spa complex, built on an islet jutting into the sea. The accommodations are in a separate building, not visible in the picture.
4/12/2019: Church of Nynashamn
The view to Nynashamn with the church prominent above the town.
4/12/2019: Waterfront
Huge waterfront homes are throughout the island of Trehorningen. With Stockholm only a short train ride away, this must be a popular place to live.
4/12/2019: Crow
Handsome crow viewed while we walked back to Nynashamn.
4/12/2019: Barnacle Goose
The park we walked through coming back into Nynashamn was full of Barnacle Geese, and Barnacle goose poop.
4/12/2019: Eight Friends Inn
Enjoying a local micro brew at the cozy Eight Friends Inn in the former Nynashamn train station building.
4/12/2019: Visby
The Destination Gotland ferry Visby returning to port in the evening on its second return trip of the day from Gotland. We're loving having a view to the ferry traffic.
4/13/2019: Visby Arriving
The Destination Gotland ferry Visby arriving into Nynashamn. We'll be on board when it departs for Gotland later this morning.
4/13/2019: Pate-sicle
Cat food frozen into a "pate-sicle" for Spitfire to eat while we're away for a night on Gotland.
4/13/2019: Car Traffic
Cars getting ready to load onto the ferry to Visby. The ferry is 100% booked today—we watched them load and completely fill both car decks.
4/13/2019: Foot Traffic
Waiting with the other passengers to board our ferry to Gotland.
4/13/2019: Nynashamn Guest Harbour
The Nynashamn Guest Harbour viewed from the ferry Visby, with Dirona just right of center. The marina is lightly occupied now in the off-season, but this picture shows how packed it can be in the summer. The large breakwater to the left is full, with boats rafted three deep in places, and boats are moored bow-to the dock where we currently are side-tied.
4/13/2019: Cruise Ship Ramp
A folding cruise ship boarding ramp, similar to what we saw at Geirangerfjord in Norway last year.
4/13/2019: Mining Trucks
Mining trucks working a huge pile just north of Nynashamn, probably fuel for the nearby heat and power plant.
4/13/2019: Underway
Celebrating being underway for Gotland with a Visby-brewed Sleepy Bulldog Pale Ale. We're super-excited about the trip as we really wanted to visit Visby. We'd planned to go by boat from the Vastervik area on the mainland directly to the west, but the weather didn't cooperate, so we continued north. The 1500-passenger ferry was completely booked, except for the day cabins, so we enjoyed the 3:15 run in our own private room.
4/13/2019: Visby
Our first view to Visby on Gotland. The town was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1995 for it's well-preserved medieval structures, include a mostly intact 2.1m (3.4 km) 12th-century wall and a number of church ruins, most dating to the 12th century. The wall and one of its towers is visible at the lower left of the picture, Visby Cathedral, built in the 12th and 13th centuries is prominent slightly left of center and two church ruins are at the center and far right.
4/13/2019: Clarion Hotel Wisby
Our home for the night, the Clarion Hotel Wisby, inside the city walls.
4/13/2019: Wall
Jennifer standing in an archway that goes through the wall at the southwest corner. We loved how the city had evolved inside the wall, with more modern buildings constructed right up against it, becoming almost a part of the wall.
4/13/2019: Soldiers
We passed through the wall to the outside and noticed camouflaged figures with guns overlooking the harbour. We initially thought they were manikins placed there to depict more modern defense techniques, until one of them moved quite close to us. That was a surprise. They told us they were on a training exercise and we saw dozens more as we walked about outside the wall.
4/13/2019: Windmill
Historic windmill, one of several outside the Visby walls.
4/13/2019: Visby Departing
The ferry we arrived on, the Visby, departing for Nynashamn. The captains do an amazing job maneuvering the huge ships in very tight quarters.
4/13/2019: Saddle Tower
One of the nine remaining saddle towers from the 22 originally built into the wall.
4/13/2019: Sodra Murgatan
Walking along Sodra Murgatan just inside the Visby wall.
4/13/2019: Smittens Backe
Centuries-old buildings along narrow Smittens Backe.
4/13/2019: St. Catherine's Ruin
St. Catherine's ruin, overlooking the Visby Town Square, is one of the most beautiful of the town's church ruins. Construction of the church began in early 13th century and the structure was abandoned in the 1520s after the Franciscan convent that built it disbanded.
4/13/2019: Atrium
We stopped off for a drink in the fabulous atrium of our hotel, the Clarion Wisby. The left side of the room is a centuries-old stone wall with a glass roof enclosing and connecting it to the hotel. We loved it.
4/13/2019: Eden
Eden, along the Visby Town Square, where we will have dinner.
4/13/2019: Sunset
Fabulous sunset looking across the Visby Town Square to the St. Catherine's church ruin.
4/13/2019: Tapas
A delicious tapas selection for dinner at Eden in Visby.
4/13/2019: Taps
Local microbrews on tap at Brygghuset Visby. At least five breweries operate on the island of Gotland.
4/14/2019: Hotel Room View
Visby from our window at the Clarion Hotel Wisby.
4/14/2019: Stril Explorer
The 250 ft Norwegian Offshore Supply Ship Stril Explorer home ported in Hammerfest Norway, that we visited last year.
4/14/2019: Almedalen Park
Looking to Visby from Almedalen Park as we set off for a walk around the town wall.
4/14/2019: Gunpowder Tower
The Gunpowder Tower is the oldest in the wall and one of the oldest surviving secular buildings in Scandinavia, likely dating from the mid-12th century. Work on the Town Wall began sometime in the 13th century, and this tower was incorporated as one of the 29 wall towers. The tower was a powder magazine in the 18th century, which is how it got its name.
4/14/2019: Love Gate
In medieval times, ropes were tarred near this gate and the word for tar in Swedish sounds a bit like the beginning of the Swedish word for love, hence the name.
4/14/2019: Wall Model
A model of the northwest corner of the Visby Town Wall, including the Silver Cap at right and the Snackgard's Gate at left.
4/14/2019: Silver Cap
The Silver Cap at the northwest corner of the Town Wall, viewed from the Snackgard's Gate. The old Sentry Walk here has been restored and is open to the public. Stairs lead up to the Silver Cap and beyond to the Snackgard's Gate.
4/14/2019: Visby looking South
Great view to Visby looking south from the top of the Snackgard's Gate.
4/14/2019: Saddle Tower
The oldest and smallest of the saddle towers in the wall. 22 saddle towers were built, but only 9 remain. Snackgard's Gate is at the far right of the picture.
4/14/2019: North Gate
The North Gate is one of the oldest towers in the wall, dating to around 1280.
4/14/2019: St. George's Ruin
St. George's was a church and hospital for lepers outside the city walls to protect Visby from the infected. The church likely was built in the late 12th or early 13th century.
4/14/2019: Dalman Tower
The Dalman Tower was built over an original gateway in the oldest wall, still visible in the gateway arch. The 17m building also served as a navigation mark for the medieval port. It was walled up and roofed over in the late 18th century for use as a granary.
4/14/2019: East Gate
The East Gate was one of three main gates in the wall, and was probably built in the late 13th century.
4/14/2019: Kaisar Tower
The view south down the wall from stairs up the Kaiser Tower that once served as a prison.
4/14/2019: Adelsgatan
Looking down Adelsgatan from just inside the South Gate.
4/14/2019: Walking Wall
The only portion of the wall that is walkable is at the extreme south end.
4/14/2019: Skeppargatan
Looking along Skeppargatan from atop the wall at the south end.
4/14/2019: Visborg Castle
Model of Visborg Castle in Slottsparken. The castle once stood at the southwest corner of the wall, but was destroyed when the Danish invaded in 1679.
4/14/2019: Breakfast
We'd gotten an early start to the day and returned to the hotel just in time for a Hobbit's "second breakfast" at the Clarion Wisby atrium. We had a short but good stay here, and particularly enjoyed the atrium. We stopped back in again later in the day before our ferry home.
4/14/2019: Strandgatan
Medieval building on Strandgatan.
4/14/2019: Picture Stones
The excellent Gotland Museum has a large collection of pre-Viking picture stones. These date from the 5th to 7th centuries.
4/14/2019: Hedgehog Girl
Stone Age skeletons at the Gotland Museum. Those on the left are called the Hedgehog Girl because the young woman was buried in a cap made of hedgehog spines.
4/14/2019: Church Artifacts
A large display of historic church artifacts at the Gotland Museum.
4/14/2019: Armor
Medieval armor hanging on the original door from the East Gate of the Visby Town Wall. We really enjoyed our visit to the museum—it was much larger than we were expecting and the presentations and displays were very well done.
4/14/2019: Silver Hoard
Visby was a major, and wealthy, Hanseatic port in medieval times. But the Vikings that controlled the island before that were exceptionally wealthy. More than 700 silver hoards have been found on the island, the most impressive being the Spillings Hoard. Found in 1999 on the Spillings farm in northern Gotland, it is the world's largest Viking treasure. The hoard weighed 148 lb (67 kg) before conservation and included 14,295 coins.
4/14/2019: Visby Cat
One of the local Visby cats on the prowl.
4/14/2019: Cobblestones
Looking up one of Visby's picturesque cobblestone streets.
4/14/2019: Drotten Ruin
Drotten Church was built in the 13th century and dedicated to the Holy Trinity. It was abandoned at the Reformation in the 16th century.
4/14/2019: St. Lawrence's Ruin
St. Lawrence's Church, dedicated to St. Lawrence, was built in the 13th century across from Drotten Church. It also was abandoned at the Reformation in the 16th century.
4/14/2019: Town Square
A number of people were out having a drink along the Visby Town Square, enjoying the cold but sunny mid-April weather. We couldn't resist joining them.
4/14/2019: Visby Cathedral
Spectacular Visby Cathedral was built in the 12th and 13th centuries by and for wealthy German traders.
4/14/2019: Organ
The Visby Cathedral organ.
4/14/2019: Sculpture
Ornate sculptures on the exterior of Visby Cathedral.
4/14/2019: Kyrkberget
The view southwest across Visby to the port from Kyrkberget above Visby Cathedral.
4/14/2019: Visby Cathedral Exterior
Visby Cathedral viewed from the park Kyrkberget.
4/14/2019: St. Nicholas' Ruin
St. Nicholas' Church dates to 1227 and was originally part of the Dominican monastery. In modern times, a glass roof has been added and the floor paved with limestone and the facility is commonly used to hold concerts. A sign out front offers to "rent a ruin".
4/14/2019: St. Clemen's Ruin
St. Clemen's Church was built about 1060 and is one of the oldest church ruins in Visby.
4/14/2019: St. Olaf's Ruin
St. Olaf's Church was built around 1240 as a German parish church to replace St. Nicholas' that was taken over by the Dominican Order. It was abandoned after the Reformation in the 16th century.
4/14/2019: Helge Ands Ruin
Helgo Ands Church was built in 1200 in an octagonal style that is unique in Sweden. After a fire partially destroyed the upper levels, what remained of the building was converted to a cow shed.
4/14/2019: Gotlands Bryggeri
Gotlands Bryggeri in Visby, one of at least five breweries on Gotland.
4/14/2019: St. Peter and St. Hans Ruin
The two churches St. Pers and St. Hans were both built in the 13th century and joined together to form a single complex.
4/14/2019: Atrium Wall
The outside of the stone wall that forms one side of the atrium at the Clarion Hotel Wisby.
4/14/2019: Forward Cabin
We had an exceptional time in Visby and were really glad we found a way to visit. We had economy tickets for the return trip, but enjoyed the cabin so much on the outbound journey that we upgraded on the return and requested one forward-facing.
4/14/2019: Backing Out
Looking across the bow of the Visby as it backs out from the dock. The skippers really do an amazing job in such tight quarters.
4/14/2019: Sunset
Sunset looking across Landsort at the southern tip of the Stockholm Archipelago, viewed on the ferry from Gotland nears Nynashamn.
4/14/2019: Refinery
Refineries always look great at night.
4/14/2019: Nynashamn
Nynashamn at night, viewed from our ferry as we arrive back from Gotland. Dirona is lit in blue at the center of the picture.