MV Dirona travel digest for Denmark and Germany 2019

Position: 58°20.09'N, 11°10.76'E

Jennifer pulling in the snubber as we get underway from the anchorage off Smogen shortly after 5am. Exiting the area was a little more challenging than usual due to the number of lobster traps everywhere. But we were able to see them clearly with our forward spotlight and were able to avoid them.

Position: 58°12.00'N, 11°5.60'E

Trying to avoid a fish boat at sea can be a frustrating affair when they run such random courses. Here the North Sea is overtaking on our port side, running a similar course to us. But the fish boat LL91 Kristina has abruptly turned onto our path and now is on a collision course. To our northeast another fish boat is running a similarly roundabout course.

Position: 57°58.66'N, 10°55.16'E

We've far enough offshore now that cellular connectivity is getting spotty, so we're running on the KVH V7-HTS (green light labelled 'VSAT' at bottom left).

Position: 57°53.56'N, 10°51.19'E

Lowering our Swedish courtesy flag as we depart Sweden.

Position: 57°53.45'N, 10°51.11'E

Raising our Danish courtesy flag. The winds are blowing steadily in the 20s from the east, but sea conditions are reasonable.

Position: 57°51.08'N, 10°49.27'E

Vessels heading in and out of the Baltic that can't fit through the Kiel Canal pass around the tip of Denmark and we're seeing lots of traffic as we approach.

Position: 57°50.55'N, 10°48.93'E

The 1,390ft (423m) Magleby Maersk, one of the largest container ships in the world, dwarfs the 292ft (89m) tanker Nordic Sola.

Position: 57°43.14'N, 10°39.69'E

The 151 ft (46 m) brick tower of the Skagen Lighthouse. When the tower was built in 1858 it was near the middle of the peninsula, but due to coastal erosion it now is near the Kattegat coast.

Position: 57°42.89'N, 10°36.45'E

The seas really stood up as we approached Skagen. The supply/tug Skawlink IV was rolling and taking waves over the bow as it exited the Port of Skagen.

Position: 57°42.89'N, 10°36.45'E

Dirona was rolling quite a bit in the large steep waves just outside the Port of Skagen. Our cockpit was constantly awash with water entering through the scuppers.

Position: 57°42.82'N, 10°36.00'E

Nearing the entry to the Port of Skagen.

Position: 57°43.02'N, 10°35.54'E

The pilot boat DanPilot Bravo at the Port of Skagen.

Position: 57°43.02'N, 10°35.54'E

Skagen is the home port for the Ceton, the pelagic trawler that we toured in Donso, and one of the reasons we wanted to stop in Skagen was to see some of the other big pelagic trawlers that home port here. It looks like quite a few are in port—we can't wait to go ashore and walk around.

Position: 57°43.13'N, 10°35.32'E

Moored at Skagen Marina within the Port of Skagen for a few nights.

Position: 57°43.14'N, 10°35.34'E

A fun lunch at Havfruen, one of several restaurants that line the waterfront above the marina, with a view to Dirona and the Port of Skagen beyond.

Position: 57°43.09'N, 10°35.27'E

After lunch, we toured the port on foot to look at some of the big ships there. This is the 262ft (80m) pelagic fishing vessel Lunar Bow, currently under construction at Karstensens shipyard in Skagen for UK-based Lunar Fishing Co. The ship will be powered by a Wartsila 10V31 main engine and twin Caterpillar C32 auxiliaries and is scheduled to be delivered in 2020.

Position: 57°43.07'N, 10°35.17'E

This emergency ladder looks like a nice design. We'll have to look into that.

Position: 57°43.02'N, 10°35.13'E

The 230ft (70m) pelagic fishing vessel Astrid of Skagen in drydock for bottom paint. The ship was delivered in 2014, also from Skagen-based Karstensens shipyard.

Position: 57°43.02'N, 10°35.07'E

It takes a lot of paint to cover the bottom of Astrid.

Position: 57°42.97'N, 10°35.03'E

The bow of the fishing vessel in the background is in the process of being replaced. On the ground is what came off.

Position: 57°42.98'N, 10°35.01'E

The 206ft (63m) pelagic trawler Clipperton on the marine ways at Skagen. The ship's home port is Donso, where we recently toured two oil tankers and the pelagic trawler Ceton, and is another build from Skagen-based Karstensens shipyard.

Position: 57°42.94'N, 10°34.84'E

We don't often see a Furuno store, let alone a Furuno vehicle. That gives a hint to how much Furuno gear is installed and serviced here in Skagen.

Position: 57°42.93'N, 10°34.89'E

Looking across the extensive marine ways at Skagen.

Position: 57°42.91'N, 10°35.01'E

Y'all may be getting tired of looking at pelagic trawlers, but we weren't :). This is the 250ft (76m) trawler Altaire built by Solstrand AS shipyard in Norway for Shetland-based Altaire Fishing Co. Ltd.

Position: 57°43.00'N, 10°35.20'E

The tractor tug BB Connector of Oslo.

Position: 57°42.96'N, 10°35.21'E

The 246ft (75m) pelagic trawler Charisma under construction at Karstensens shipyard for Charisma Fishing Co of Shetland.

Position: 57°42.98'N, 10°35.24'E

Massive crane in Karstensens shipyard, likely for the Charisma.

Position: 57°42.85'N, 10°34.95'E

Huge trawl doors roadside in Skagen.

Position: 57°42.94'N, 10°34.73'E

A watchful seal perched on a dock east west of the Port of Skagen.

Position: 57°42.98'N, 10°34.59'E

Most of the houses in Skagen are painted yellow, with white-edged red roofs.

Position: 57°42.97'N, 10°34.50'E

Lifeboat in a reconstruction of the Kandestederne rescue station at the Skagen Coastal Museum, covering the area's maritime history.

Position: 57°42.98'N, 10°34.50'E

The memorial hall at Skagen Coastal Museum contains figureheads and nameplates from ships that have been lost in the area. The boat in front is a typical 19th-century fishing boat used in the area.

Position: 57°42.97'N, 10°34.45'E

Two grinding stones inside a Dutch windmill at Skagen Coastal Museum, one of several used historically in the Skagen area.

Position: 57°43.00'N, 10°34.50'E

Model at Skagen Coastal Museum showing different inshore fishing methods, where the fishers used boats to drop nets that are dragged ashore onto the beach.

Position: 57°42.99'N, 10°34.50'E

Model at Skagen Coastal Museum showing the original Port of Skagen when first completed in the early 1900s. Prior the construction of a protected port, the size of fishing boats were limited to what could be dragged up onto the beach.

Position: 57°43.07'N, 10°34.96'E

The Swedish Seaman's Church in Skagen, built to look as it if were on a grass-covered beach.

Position: 57°43.15'N, 10°35.23'E

The statue, Danish Fisherman and Rescuer, by sculptor Anne Marie Carl-Nielsen, erected at Skagen Harbor in 1933.

Update 10/05: Blog reader L-H K. Arvedsen told us this statue is of Lars Kruse, the namesake for the Skagen SAR vessel, who is credited with saving over 200 lives.

Position: 57°43.18'N, 10°35.26'E

At the tourist information office to pickup some maps and brochures.

Position: 57°43.12'N, 10°35.42'E

The 167ft (51m) bucket-dredger Amsterdam at the Port of Skagen.

Position: 57°43.11'N, 10°35.43'E

One of the very large anchors used by the Amsterdam.

Position: 57°43.21'N, 10°35.71'E

We saw the supply vessel Supplier at Donso, where it was tasked with keeping the Ramanda from dragging further on the moorings.

Position: 57°43.20'N, 10°35.73'E

Massive Yokohama fenders at the port of Skagen.

Position: 57°43.14'N, 10°35.80'E

The motor hopper Roar R was purpose built to carry and easily discharge dredged materials by pivoting the hull outward from the middle.

Position: 57°43.13'N, 10°35.52'E

The SAR vessel Lars Kruse appears designed to be self-righting. The superstructure likely is filled with air and would force the vessel upright in a roll-over. And the engine exhausts have powered covers that would seal off to prevent downflow of saltwater into the engine room.

Position: 57°43.01'N, 10°35.75'E

Fishers mending their nets at the Port of Skagen.

Position: 57°43.27'N, 10°35.37'E

Restaurant-lined Havnevej in Skagen.

Position: 57°43.28'N, 10°35.36'E

A delicious meal at La Familia overlooking Havnevej in Skagen.

Position: 57°43.13'N, 10°35.32'E

Cold diesel engines can smoke. It's also common to smoke as load is applied. But this large recreational diesel engine appears to have a deeper problem smoking badly as it pulls away from the dock.

Position: 57°43.17'N, 10°35.73'E

We stopped in the local marine store to have a look around. They carried the typical recreational fare, ranging from rain gear to anchors to electronics. But given the location in Skagen's commercial fishing harbour, they also had some unusual items, such as these very large pipe connectors.

Position: 57°43.21'N, 10°35.50'E

The 206ft (63m) pelagic trawler Clipperton, that we saw on the marine ways yesterday, departing the Port of Skagen.

Position: 57°43.35'N, 10°35.02'E

When we stopped by the Skagen Bryghus microbrewery for a pint the place was packed watching Nellie B.M. and Soren Ahlgren playing the blues. The band was great and we ended up staying for a couple of hours enjoying the show.

Position: 57°43.28'N, 10°35.36'E

Another great meal in Skagen, this one at Firenze Pizzeria.

Position: 57°43.14'N, 10°35.33'E

Dirona moored at Skagen Marina inside the Port of Skagen.

Position: 57°43.61'N, 10°36.49'E

The bascule light at Skagen, originally constructed in 1627, was the open-fire-basket bascule light in the country. when the basket, filled with combustible material, was lit and raised high, it was visible for miles.

Position: 57°43.61'N, 10°36.48'E

Pilot boat returning to the Port of Skagen viewed from the hilltop perch of the bascule light.

Position: 57°43.75'N, 10°36.43'E

The Skagen White Lighthouse replaced the bascule light in 1747 and was the first brick lighthouse in Denmark.

Position: 57°44.09'N, 10°37.54'E

Skagen has excellent bicycle paths. Here we are riding north towards the Skagen Grey lighthouse.

Position: 57°44.13'N, 10°37.82'E

The Skagen Grey Lighthouse is open to the public, but can get busy in the summer. So a traffic light limits how many can be inside the light at once.

Position: 57°44.13'N, 10°37.82'E

Climbing the steps 150ft (46m) up to the top of the Skagen Grey Lighthouse.

Position: 57°44.13'N, 10°37.81'E

Looking west to the North Sea from atop the Skagen Grey Lighthouse. Built in 1858, it was the tallest lighthouse in the country until 1952, when the Dueodde Lighthouse on Bornholm was built one meter taller.

Position: 57°44.13'N, 10°37.81'E

Looking south to Skagen from the top of the Skagen Grey Lighthouse. The lighthouse was originally built in the middle of the peninsula, but due to coastal erosion it is closer to the Kattegat coast now.

Position: 57°44.13'N, 10°37.81'E

Ruins of World War II bunkers on the beach between Skagen and the lighthouse.

Position: 57°44.13'N, 10°37.81'E

Looking north to Grenen, at the northern tip of Denmark, from the Skagen Grey Lighthouse. A steady stream of people are visible walking the beach to Grenen.

Position: 57°44.13'N, 10°37.83'E

Skagen is a major stop for migratory birds. After climbing the lighthouse, we spent some time viewing the excellent displays in the Center for Migratory Birds at the base.

Position: 57°44.33'N, 10°38.09'E

Our bikes locked at Grenen for a walk to the tip of Denmark. Those Giant FCR 2s have served us amazingly well over the past decade, requiring surprisingly little service given the amount of use they get.

Position: 57°44.43'N, 10°38.41'E

Walking the beach north to Grenen.

Position: 57°44.77'N, 10°39.10'E

Standing at Grenen at the north tip of Denmark. On the left is the Skagerakk in the North Sea, and on the right is the Kattegat in the Baltic Sea. Standing barefoot in the water off the tip is very popular, but swimming is not allowed due to the strong currents.

Position: 57°44.78'N, 10°39.05'E

If you don't want to walk the beach to Grenen, you can ride in a tractor-pulled wagon.

Position: 57°44.49'N, 10°38.40'E

Looking north across grass-covered dunes as we return from Grenen.

Position: 57°44.38'N, 10°38.06'E

An excellent lunch overlooking the dunes of Grenen at restaurant De 2 Have, mainland Denmark's northernmost restaurant.

Position: 57°42.83'N, 10°33.04'E

From Grenen, we rode south past Skagen to the Sand-Covered Church. The church was built in the 14th century and was the largest in the region. Sand migration that started in the 16th century reached the church two centuries later and the congregation had to dig their way into the church to attend services. The church was closed by Royal Decree in 1795 and currently only the tower of the church is visible above the sand.

Position: 57°43.35'N, 10°35.02'E

We had such a good time watching the Nellie B.M. and Soren Ahlgren play the blues at Skagen Bryghus that we returned the next night for the more rock-oriented band that would be playing. The place was completely packed with standing room only.

Position: 57°43.35'N, 10°35.02'E

Shortly after we arrived at Skagen Bryghus, a large group near the stage left and we snagged front-row seats. Back, Larsen and Thrane did an excellent job and we really enjoyed the show. We spent some time talking the bass player, Michael Back Jensen, who was playing a brand of base we didn't recognize. It was a Morch that'd he'd had custom-made by the Danish company.

Position: 57°43.34'N, 10°35.02'E

Back, Larsen and Thrane did a great rendition of Iron Man. A short video of the performance is at https://youtu.be/fC8hIPvLdCs.

Position: 57°43.28'N, 10°35.36'E

An excellent meal over a wonderful bottle of Barolo at Firenze Pizzeria in Skagen.

Position: 57°41.99'N, 10°36.62'E

As we departed Skagen at 5am, at least a dozen fishboats turned on their AIS and departed behind us. Here several are visible heading north as we proceed south through a mass of moored ships, mostly tankers.

Position: 57°28.94'N, 10°44.75'E

The tug Switzer Tyr was doing ship assist work on the SCF Neva a half mile north of us as we passed. As the pilot got off and the pilot boat sped south behind us, the Switzer Tyr was released and he headed back to town. He was on a course to pass 50 yards in front of us and we're the stand-on vessel. Technically he will just barely pass in front of us if nothing changes but, in our opinion, it's much, much closer than acceptable for the conditions.

We probably should have sounded five blasts of the horn (signalling danger), but we expect he knew we were there and simply wasn't concerned, being comfortable with the CPA. We threw Dirona astern and stopped to wait while the Switzer Tyr passed. The puff of black smoke above us possibly caught the skipper's attention, who elected to make a major course change and pass astern of us. Perhaps they actually didn't know we were there.

Position: 57°28.94'N, 10°44.75'E

With a 50 yard CPA to the ship assist tug Switzer Try, we threw Dirona into astern and held position to allow the tug to pass in front of us. The large puff of black smoke above us may have caught the skipper's attention, who diverted to pass astern of Dirona.

Most commercial boats give us lots of room but we suspect some get very comfortable with close quarters operation and, for them, 50 yards feels sufficient. In open sea we don't like less than one mile and can't live with much less than a quarter mile, so 50 yards just doesn't work.

Position: 57°18.36'N, 10°54.64'E

Following the ferry Margrete Laeso into Laeso Vestero, the western harbour on Laeso.

Position: 57°18.01'N, 10°55.21'E

The ferry Ane Laeso was already in the harbour when the Margrete Laeso arrived. The island of Laeso is the largest in the Kattegat, with a population of around 1,800.

Position: 57°17.77'N, 10°55.35'E

Moored for the night at Laeso Vestero, the western harbour on Laeso.

Position: 57°17.75'N, 10°55.41'E

Alex Rasmussen, the Laeso Vestero harbour master, was super-friendly and helpful. He met us on the dock shortly after we arrived, bringing a selection of maps and tourist guides. He also encouraged us to rent one of their electric cars to tour the island, which we did.

Position: 57°17.79'N, 10°55.32'E

Watching the ferry Ane Laeso departing from Laeso with a full load.

Position: 57°15.13'N, 10°52.74'E

Looking across from the southern tip of Laeso to the island of Stokken. In the summer, people wade across the shallow water to collect mussels.

Position: 57°15.36'N, 10°53.48'E

Driving through a forest on the south end of Laeso.

Position: 57°14.37'N, 10°59.45'E

At Laeso Salt, established in 1991 to provide jobs to unemployed youth. By 2004 the company had broken even economically and now can provide steady jobs. Laeso Salt is made by seething, where saline ground water is heated in large iron pans until the salt crystallizes.

Position: 57°14.36'N, 10°59.41'E

Interesting-looking mushrooms at Laeso Salt.

Position: 57°14.36'N, 10°59.37'E

Looking over the Laeso Salt facility from an observation tower on the property.

Position: 57°15.17'N, 11°0.32'E

In 1926, Byrum resident Thorvald Hansen decided to build a 55-ft (17m) tower so that he could see the entire island. He modeled his tower on the Skagen Grey Lighthouse and it has stood to this day.

Position: 57°15.17'N, 11°0.32'E

The wonderful view from the top of Thorvald Hansen's tower (click image for a larger view).

Position: 57°15.15'N, 11°0.36'E

Our ride, an all-electric Peugeot, was great fun and super-convenient to pickup right off the dock where we are moored. We initially were planning to cycle around the island, but the car allowed us to see so much more.

Position: 57°15.28'N, 10°59.96'E

Looking across their beautifully-tended graveyard to Byrum Church. The church was originally built in 1269, and the current structure dates to 1773.

Position: 57°18.33'N, 11°8.21'E

Laeso is famous for its seaweed houses, found nowhere else in the world. Seaweed is an excellent insulator and the islanders began using it for roofing since Laeso became deforested by the 1600s. The seaweed roofs can last up to 400 years, but many are in a state of disrepair and a project is underway to restore them. This video and information display explains the history and construction process.

Position: 57°18.35'N, 11°8.23'E

A seaweed roof being restored.

Position: 57°18.47'N, 11°7.53'E

Hedvigs Hus dates from 1675 and its seaweed roof was restored in 2016. Inside is a small museum.

Position: 57°18.46'N, 11°7.52'E

The interior of the seaweed roof at Hedvigs Hus.

Position: 57°19.41'N, 11°10.02'E

Looking west across the windswept beach at Syrbugt at the northeast tip of Laeso.

Position: 57°19.22'N, 11°7.57'E

Lobster statue at Osterby Havn, the eastern harbour on Laeso.

Position: 57°19.27'N, 11°7.61'E

Lobsters adoring the building of AS Laeso Fiskeindustri. We're getting the impression that lobster is an important catch here.

Position: 57°19.28'N, 11°7.60'E

Commercial fishing boats at Osterby Havn, the eastern harbour on Laeso.

Position: 57°19.22'N, 11°7.50'E

Marine ways at Osterby Havn, with track radiating out, allowing a multiple ships to be ashore at the same time from a single lift point by turning the lift point to match up with a particular set of tracks.

Position: 57°19.19'N, 11°7.33'E

Enjoying a drink at Sailors Pub overlooking the marina at Osterby Havn.

Position: 57°17.70'N, 10°55.44'E

Looking across Vestero Havn. We're glad they could find a berth for us in the harbour :).

Position: 57°17.72'N, 10°55.48'E

A delicious fresh lobster meal at Havnebakken Restaurant overlooking our berth.

Position: 57°17.72'N, 10°55.43'E

Dirona at night in tranquil Vestero Havn.

Position: 57°17.75'N, 10°55.41'E

We departed Laeso about 4:15am to make the 52-mile run to Anholt before big winds arrive later in the day.

Position: 56°45.40'N, 11°24.36'E

Big winds, with gusts to 45 knots, are expected to hit the Kattegat this afternoon. The winds will start picking up around noon and be at their strongest between 6pm and 9pm. We should be safely Anholt Havn well before that.

Position: 56°42.84'N, 11°30.75'E

Dirona moored at Anholt Havn. The winds were blowing in the 20s from the west when we arrived, and the seas were picking up off the exposes harbour entrance. Conditions weren't difficult to navigate through, but we needed to bias a bit to port to avoid being forced too close to the starboard breakwater.

Position: 56°42.88'N, 11°30.89'E

Anholt is 80% desert, making up the largest desert in Northern Europe, and has a lot of sand. It's everywhere.

Position: 56°42.89'N, 11°30.91'E

View across Anholt Havn from the Sailors House deck. The harbour has a capacity for 250 boats and is absolutely jam-packed in the summer with boats moored stern or bow-to the dock. We're glad to be here in the off-season.

Position: 56°43.01'N, 11°30.67'E

Quirky beach-side Orakel Bar on Anholt, with furniture made from shipping pallets. Too bad it's closed for the season—it would have been fun to have a drink outside there.

Position: 56°42.95'N, 11°30.64'E

The winds have been picking up and are generating fair-sized seas at the harbour entrance. Here the ferry Anholt is surfing in on the waves before needing to make a sharp left turn through the narrow entrance, followed by a hard right. Entrance in these conditions with a boat that big requires skill.

Position: 56°42.88'N, 11°30.91'E

Another view over Anholt Havn showing how much the winds and waves have picked up since we arrived.

Position: 56°42.95'N, 11°31.06'E

The view northwest from the hill Nordbjerg above the marina. The waves are really pounding into the beach on the shore. We tried to take pictures earlier when we were down on the beach, but so much spray filled the air that it was almost impossible to get a picture before the lens was covered in drying saltwater.

Position: 56°43.00'N, 11°31.12'E

Denmark has a wide variety of unusual-looking mushrooms. We don't recall ever seeing one this big before.

Position: 56°42.42'N, 11°32.28'E

Sheep keeping an eye on us as we walk towards the main village, about a mile inland from the harbour.

Position: 56°42.27'N, 11°32.53'E

We loved this hilltop house in the village of Anholt.

Position: 56°42.21'N, 11°32.71'E

Memorial commemorating the 1902 completion of the port at Anholt, provide a safe haven for local and regional fisherman.

Position: 56°42.17'N, 11°32.63'E

Mosaic map of the island of Anholt on the local grocery store. The harbour is at the left.

Position: 56°42.22'N, 11°32.62'E

Chickens in an Anholt backyard with unusual feathers that almost look like fur.

Position: 56°42.33'N, 11°32.63'E

Memorial to those who died in 1811 in an unsuccessful attempt to retake the island of Anholt from the British, who occupied the island from 1809-1814 during the Napoleonic Wars where Denmark was aligned with France.

Position: 56°43.08'N, 11°31.00'E

Walking back to the harbour along the north shore of Anholt into a sandstorm. Wind-borne sand filled the air and we had to struggle against the force of the wind, close to blinded by the sand. In many ways it looked and felt like a winter blizzard in heavy winds, except snow doesn't hurt as much when it gets in your eye.

Position: 56°42.89'N, 11°30.71'E

The wind graph at top right shows how the winds have picked up during the day and by 6pm we're seeing steady gusts into the mid-40s.

Position: 56°42.89'N, 11°30.71'E

Spectacular sunset looking out to the harbour entrance, with storm-swept waves cracking over the breakwater and the Anholt wind farm visible in the distance.

Position: 56°42.89'N, 11°30.71'E

When the storm was at it's maximum, around 9pm, a sailboat arrived at the harbour. It was so rough out there that if you look carefully (click image for larger view) you can see that their anchor has lifted off the pulpit and landed against the side of the boat, where it has since been bouncing against the fiberglass. They did circles in the harbour for over a half-hour and several times attempted to moor in the recreational harbour, but ended up sideways to the winds and blowing rapidly down the fairway so abandoned the attempt. They eventually elected to land on the commercial dock where the spent the night. It's a charter boat, so hopefully that wasn't their introduction to sailing.

Position: 56°42.89'N, 11°30.71'E

The Anholt ferry turning in the harbor as it departs Anholt on its daily run to Grenaa.

Position: 56°42.58'N, 11°31.52'E

Walking in the woods en route to the viewpoint Sonderbjerg at the southern tip of Anholt.

Position: 56°42.10'N, 11°31.69'E

Cross above the western beach Vesterstrand, a memorial to two young girls who drowned while bathing here in 1891.

Position: 56°41.98'N, 11°31.76'E

Looking north along Vesterstrand towards the harbour.

Position: 56°41.65'N, 11°32.06'E

Walking the trail above the beach to Sonderbjerg.

Position: 56°41.59'N, 11°32.11'E

The shrubs along the trail were bent over by the westerly winds.

Position: 56°41.45'N, 11°32.31'E

Enjoying the view south from Sonderbjerg at the southern tip of Anholt.

Position: 56°42.91'N, 11°32.36'E

Looking across the grass-covered Anholt desert to the 18th-century Anholt Lighthouse at the eastern tip of the island.

Position: 56°42.89'N, 11°30.71'E

We departed Anholt shortly past 4am this morning in order to reach Helsingor by early afternoon. The seas had settled down considerably since the storm two days ago, but conditions still were a little rough as we exited the harbour. The four-minute video at https://youtu.be/9a_pz743gMA shows us departing the inner and outer harbours and entering the Kattegat.

Position: 56°38.13'N, 11°28.72'E

The 111 turbines, each 465ft (142m) high, of the Anholt Offshore Wind Farm are clearly visible on radar to our southwest. With a 400 megawatt capacity, Anholt is one of the largest wind farms in the world, and the largest in Denmark.

Position: 56°2.32'N, 12°37.67'E

The ForSea ferry Hamlet departing Helsingor on the 20-minute crossing from Helsingborg, Sweden with the Aurora arriving in the background.

Position: 56°2.08'N, 12°37.19'E

15th-century Kronborg Castle in Helsingor was immortalized as Elsinore, the setting for William Shakespeare's Hamlet.

Position: 56°2.28'N, 12°37.02'E

Plugged into 32-amp power for the first time since leaving the US in 2017. We bought the adapter while in Amsterdam, which produces a single-phase 32-amp 200V connection from a three-phase 32-amp 400V source.

Position: 56°2.20'N, 12°36.63'E

After a brief walk around Helsingor, we stopped at the cozy pub Gaestgivergarden for drink from their selection of local and imported craft beer.

Position: 56°2.24'N, 12°36.57'E

An excellent meal at Italian restaurant La Dolce Vita in Helsingor.

Position: 56°2.27'N, 12°37.00'E

Dirona moored at Helsingor Havn with Kronborg Castle in the background. What a fantastic location.

Position: 56°2.15'N, 12°36.96'E

View to Kronborg Castle as we walk along the waterfront to Helsingor train station.

Position: 56°1.98'N, 12°36.81'E

On the train to Hillerod to visit Frederiksborg Castle.

Position: 55°55.79'N, 12°18.19'E

A delicious brunch at Cafe Kobenhavn prior to touring Frederiksborg Castle.

Position: 55°55.84'N, 12°18.23'E

A first view to Frederiksborg Castle looking across the lake Slotso. The Dutch-Renaissance palace, built in the early 1600s as a residence for Christian IV, is one of the most impressive buildings in Denmark with over 80 rooms full of paintings, tapestry, furniture and spectacular gilded decor.

Position: 55°56.05'N, 12°18.00'E

Frederiksborg Castle is built on three islets in lake Slotso, which provide a natural moat for the castle.

Position: 55°56.06'N, 12°18.03'E

The Neptune Fountain, created in 1620-1622 by famed Dutch sculpture Adrien de Vries, was considered the sculptural masterpiece of the castle intended to symbolize Denmark's status as a leading 17th-century power. Unfortunately the fountain did not have the intended effect. Less than 40 years after its erection, Sweden claimed the fountain for war reparations following the 1658 Treaty of Roskilde in 1658. Swedish troops dismantled the fountain and transferred it to Drottningholm Palace, where we saw it earlier this year. The current fountain at Frederiksborg Castle is a copy made in 1888.

Position: 55°56.08'N, 12°18.05'E

The dramatic entrance to the main castle building.

Position: 55°56.11'N, 12°18.07'E

The spectacular chapel in Frederiksborg Castle is the best-preserved part of the castle and one of the few sections to escape a major fire in 1859.

Position: 55°56.10'N, 12°18.06'E

One of the prized possessions of the castle is a 1619 organ designed by Esajas Compenius. The organ is ingeniously constructed to appear as just a large cabinet when closed, with no indication that a beautiful organ lies inside.

Position: 55°56.10'N, 12°18.02'E

We were lucky to be visiting the castle on the one day of the week that the Compenius Organ is opened and played. The organist spent several minutes unlocking and opening the various compartments that revealed the fabulous organ before playing a wonderful half-hour concert.

Position: 55°56.10'N, 12°18.02'E

While the organist plays the Compenius Organ, the bellows must be hand-filled with air. This man pictured is pulling down on the ropes to fill the bellows above. It was a remarkable show.

Position: 55°56.10'N, 12°18.06'E

Christian IV's audience chamber also largely escaped the 1859 fire and is decorated in a combination of Baroque and Renaissance styles.

Position: 55°56.10'N, 12°18.06'E

When the king received people in the audience chamber, he could arrive seated via "elevator" in this chair that comes up through the floor.

Position: 55°56.12'N, 12°18.11'E

After the 1859 fire destroyed much of the castle, Carlsberg brewery founder J. C. Jacobsen was a key contributer to the castle's restoration and re-opening in 1882 as the Danish Museum of Natural History. The spectacular rooms now contain the largest collection of portrait paintings in Denmark. This 1887 painting by Danish realist painter Otto Bach is of Christian IV's 1596 coronation.

Position: 55°56.12'N, 12°18.11'E

The rooms throughout the castle were impressively decorated, but the ceilings were particularly elaborate.

Position: 55°56.12'N, 12°18.11'E

The spectacular Great Hall, reconstructed as it would have appeared during the reign of Christian IV.

Position: 55°56.12'N, 12°18.11'E

Elaborate and ornate royal bedchamber. The beds were made shorter in these days because people slept partially sitting up.

Position: 55°56.10'N, 12°18.04'E

A portion of the Danish Museum of Natural History's collection of 20th-century art and furniture at Frederiksborg Castle.

Position: 55°56.23'N, 12°18.14'E

Looking north across Slotshaven, the extensive park built for the castle.

Position: 55°56.30'N, 12°18.30'E

The view south across the Baroque Garden in Slotshaven back to Frederiksborg Castle.

Position: 55°56.37'N, 12°18.41'E

Another example of unusual-for-us Danish mushrooms.

Position: 55°56.44'N, 12°18.35'E

We were wondering how the gardeners mowed the steep slopes of the Baroque Garden. This photograph shows how—with three remote mowers suspended from crane from a garden tractor above.

Position: 55°56.13'N, 12°18.39'E

A final view to Frederiksborg Castle from the eastern edge of the lake Slotso as we return back to Hillerod train station. We really enjoyed touring the spectacular palace and grounds.

Position: 55°55.77'N, 12°18.18'E

We loved the idea of a Piemonte wine street food truck that we saw parked along the main square in Hillerod. If we'd had a little more time, we would have definitely stopped for a glass of wine.

Position: 55°55.60'N, 12°18.64'E

At Hillerod train station, opened in 1864.

Position: 56°1.98'N, 12°36.86'E

Our ride back to Helsingor, the 930R, will get us back in a half-hour.

Position: 56°2.01'N, 12°36.92'E

Adjacent to the train station is the Helsingor ferry terminal, where we spent some time watching the big ferries load and unload. This is the Tycho Brahe, one of two electric ferries that make the run between Helsingor, Denmark and Helsingborg, Sweden. We'll take this ferry in a couple of days to visit Helsingborg.

Position: 56°2.00'N, 12°36.88'E

We enjoyed watching the ferries to much that we decided to stop in at Restaurant Strejf for a bite to eat with a view to the ferry terminal. While watching the ferries come and go, we read more about the technology behind the two electric ferries. With roughly a ten-minute stop at each end, a robotic arm is used to efficiently charge the ferries as they land and depart. Each trip requires the replenishment of just over a megawatt of energy.

Position: 56°2.05'N, 12°36.91'E

Helsingor train station, opened in 1891, lit up at night.

Position: 56°2.25'N, 12°36.89'E

The Kulturvaeftet cultural centre, just above our berth at Helsingor, looks spectacular lit from the inside. Dirona is moored just out of the picture on the right.

Position: 56°2.24'N, 12°36.95'E

The sculpture Life in the Oresund by Yodogawa Technique along the Helsingor waterfront. The Oresund is the sound that runs between Denmark and Sweden and the sculpture, made from garbage, symbolizes the vulnerable ecosystem there and also the plastic pollution in the world's oceans.

Position: 56°2.25'N, 12°36.93'E

A shiny, modern, male variation, Han, on Copenhagen's famous Little Mermaid statue.

Position: 56°2.17'N, 12°36.76'E

We had a great lunch in the wonderful atmosphere at Kobenhavneren in Helsingor. It felt like a real locals' place—we were almost certainly the only visitors there for lunch.

Position: 56°2.34'N, 12°36.96'E

After lunch we visited the Maritime Museum of Denmark. The museum is built on the site of an old dry-dock and one of the stipulations of the design competition was that it be contained entirely in the dry-dock and not extend above street level. Most designs proposed building the museum inside the dry-dock with a roof on top. But the winning tender from Danish firm BIG built the museum underground around the edges of the dry-dock, with walkways across, making the dry-dock a feature of the museum. It's a wonderfully-creative idea—we loved it.

Position: 56°2.35'N, 12°36.94'E

This cutaway shows how thick the old dry-dock wall was.

Position: 56°2.35'N, 12°36.94'E

An excellent model of a triple-expansion steam engine at the Maritime Museum of Denmark.

Position: 56°2.32'N, 12°37.01'E

A 1:48 model of the Maersk Mc-Kinney Moller at the Maritime Museum of Denmark. The actual ship is 1,309 ft (399 m) long and when it went into service in 2013, its cargo capacity of 18,270 TEU (20-foot equivalent unit) was the largest in the world. The Maersk Mc-Kinney Moller was the first of Maersk's Triple E class of container ships exceeding 18,000 TEUs. We saw two other examples recently, the Magleby Maersk dwarfing an oil tanker as we approached Skagen and the Moscow Maersk at the Port of Gothenburg.

Position: 56°2.32'N, 12°37.01'E

This model of the oil tanker Tern Sea the Maritime Museum of Denmark looked so similar to the Furtank ships we'd toured in Donso a few weeks ago that we had to look up its builder. It turns out the Tern Sea is a sister ship, also built by AVIC Group in China.

Position: 56°2.35'N, 12°36.94'E

Taking a break and enjoying the view to the dry-dock from the Maritime Museum cafe. We enjoyed the museum, in particular how the dry-dock was a feature of the design.

Position: 56°2.27'N, 12°36.88'E

View to our berth at Helsingor from the Kulturvaeftet cultural centre adjacent to the Maritime Museum.

Position: 56°2.28'N, 12°36.89'E

Renovated old industrial buildings behind the Kulturvaeftet cultural centre.

Position: 56°2.35'N, 12°36.83'E

Looking across the fabulous street-food venue of Vaerftets Madmarked. We weren't ready to stop yet, but we'll definitely be back.

Position: 56°2.41'N, 12°36.84'E

Statue of Hamlet near the Helsingor waterfront. References to Shakespeare's protagonist abound in Helsingor, with Kronborg castle being famous as the setting for the play.

Position: 56°2.41'N, 12°36.84'E

We were amazed to see a real King County Transit Police vehicle drive by. Seattle, our home port, is part of King County in Washington state. We can't believe it's really a King County Transit Police vehicle, but it's the same logo, colors, font and vehicle type. Our speculation is that the city of Helsingor must have purchased the vehicle from King County and just not repainted it yet, or it might be a personal vehicle.

Position: 56°2.52'N, 12°36.66'E

Looking across Helsingor Marina, just to the north of Helsingor Havn where Dirona is berthed. Only boats less than 10 meters long can fit here.

Position: 56°2.55'N, 12°36.18'E

Marienlyst Castle, completed in 1588 as a pavilion and hunting grounds for nearby Kronborg Castle.

Position: 56°2.18'N, 12°36.56'E

A delicious dinner at Asian restaurant OE in Helsingor.

Position: 56°2.28'N, 12°37.02'E

The Danish-built former minesweeper Marianne-F, launched in 1941, now is a fishing charter vessel. The ship arrived beside us in Helsingor yesterday evening, and early this Saturday morning buses and cars arrived to drop off customers. Fishing seems popular here—several other fishing charter boats with a similar number of passengers all departed together. The Marianne-F returned around noon, each customer carried a fairly large bag of fish.

Position: 56°2.38'N, 12°37.11'E

Today we toured Helsingor's Kronborg Castle today. This is a model of the castle just inside, showing the extensive grounds.

Position: 56°2.35'N, 12°37.27'E

As with many of the castles we've visited, Kronborg was extensively modified and expanded over the centuries. And also like many other castles, it suffered a fire that required extensive renovations. This diagram shows how Kronborg evolved, starting with the initial construction in 1420 at the far right and the current state where it was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Position: 56°2.35'N, 12°37.30'E

Frederick II, the King of Denmark from 1542 until his death in 1559, transformed Kronborg castle from a medieval fortress into a magnificent Renaissance castle using funds gathered from the tolls that ships had to pay passing through the Oresund. It was these tolls that prompted the Swedish to build the Gota Canal.

This is the King's Chamber, where Frederick II conducted meetings regarding business in the realm and also held small social gatherings.

Position: 56°2.35'N, 12°37.30'E

One of two small royal bedrooms, one for the king and the other for the queen (royal couples slept apart). The rooms were small to allow them to be easily heated.

Position: 56°2.35'N, 12°37.30'E

The Queen's Chamber was where Frederick II's wife Sophia of Mecklenburg-Gustrow, spent most of her time and from where she managed the household and the upbringing of her children. This is also the room where Hamlet kills Polonius in Shakespeare's play, as the period-dressed guide in the room explained.

Position: 56°2.35'N, 12°37.34'E

When completed in the 16th century, the Great Ballroom was the largest in all of northern Europe. Frederick II loved parties and held lavish banquets here.

Position: 56°2.33'N, 12°37.27'E

The sweeping view to Helsingor from the Cannon Tower in Kronborg Castle. Dirona is visible moored at the far left.

Position: 56°2.34'N, 12°37.30'E

A statue in the basement of Kronborg castle of sleeping Danish national hero Holger Danske. Legend says he will wake up again when Denmark is threatened.

Position: 56°2.36'N, 12°37.31'E

The intricately carved and gilded chapel in Kronborg Castle.

Position: 56°2.36'N, 12°37.35'E

Cannons at Kronborg Castle, aimed across the Oresund.

Position: 56°2.13'N, 12°37.17'E

Bronze statue along the Helsingor waterfront of Hercules battling the Hydra, a mythological many-headed serpent.

Position: 56°2.35'N, 12°36.83'E

The street food market Vaerftets Madmarked was really hopping Saturday afternoon when we stopped in for a drink and a snack.

Position: 56°2.27'N, 12°36.85'E

Bronze statues outside the shipyard museum in Helsingor, presumably representing shipyard workers.

Position: 56°2.29'N, 12°36.99'E

Whenever the sun is shining in Scandinavia, no matter what the temperature, crowds gather outside to enjoy it.

Position: 56°1.99'N, 12°37.01'E

Looking back to Helsingor, DK from the Tycho Brahe as it departs for Helsingborg, SE. We'd enjoyed watching the ferries running back and forth between the two cities and and decided it would be fun to take one and visit Helsingborg for a day. We also were keen to see in action the robotic arm that power/depowers the electric ferries at each end.

Position: 56°2.13'N, 12°37.58'E

View to Kronborg Castle from the ferry to Helsingborg.

Position: 56°2.33'N, 12°39.08'E

The Tycho Brahe was originally delivered as a diesel ferry and it's been refit for all-electric operation where it charges through a robotic connection at either end of the run. The batteries are kept up on deck in the containers numbered 3 and 4 in the picture.

Position: 56°2.53'N, 12°41.25'E

The Tycho Brahe arriving into Helsingborg SE, twenty minutes after leaving Helsingor, DK. The entrance looks pretty narrow for these big ferries.

Position: 56°2.59'N, 12°41.42'E

For more efficient docking, and probably to hold the boat sufficiently stable for the robotic charge cable attachment, Forsea uses an automatic docking system. Here the system is reaching out to slip into a socket in the side of the Tycho Brahe where it will lower over a bollard and then pull the ship up tight against the dock. The release process is the opposite.

Position: 56°2.74'N, 12°41.52'E

Looking up from Stortorget, Helsingborg's main square to the tower Karnan, all that remains of Helsingborg's medieval castle.

Position: 56°2.70'N, 12°41.44'E

Maritime Goddess, by Swedish sculptor Carl Milles, was erected in Helsingor in 1923.

Position: 56°2.78'N, 12°41.62'E

Helsingborg is the fourth-largest city in Sweden and in the middle of the 19th-century, industrialization made it one of the fastest growing. The city's striking neo-Gothic city hall was completed during that period.

Position: 56°2.78'N, 12°41.62'E

A group of about fifty motorcycles setting out for a cruise from downtown Helsingborg. Many were wearing jackets from "The Infidels" motorcycle club.

Position: 56°2.75'N, 12°41.74'E

A delicious lunch at Wok on Fire in Helsingborg.

Position: 56°2.75'N, 12°41.74'E

Interestingly, the staff at Wok on Fire spoke no English, but the menu was all in English except for the food descriptions in Swedish.

Position: 56°2.83'N, 12°41.74'E

Helsingborg is the oldest city in Sweden, with a permanent establishment dating from 1085. By the 1400s the city, then a part of Denmark, was flourishing from the Danish-imposed tolls on vessels passing through the Oresund. This model shows the city around that time, with large medieval fortress of Helsingborg Castle, multiple churches and a large settlement along the water.

Position: 56°2.83'N, 12°41.75'E

The stairs leading up the hilltop above Helsingborg's main square Stortorget, along with the turrets behind, likely were built in the 19th century. The tower Karnan, all that remains of Helsingborg's medieval castle, is visible through the arches. In the foreground is a statue of David, from the story David and Goliath.

Position: 56°2.85'N, 12°41.80'E

View to Helsingborg's main square, Stortorget, from the hilltop above. The tower of City Hall is visible at center in the distance.

Position: 56°2.86'N, 12°41.81'E

Helsingborg Castle was destroyed in the 17th century, leaving only the tower Karnan. It was in ruins for much of the time since and was eventually restored in the late 19th century.

Position: 56°2.90'N, 12°41.85'E

Climbing the 146 stairs to the top of the tower Karnan.

Position: 56°2.90'N, 12°41.85'E

View to Oresund from the top of the tower Karnan.

Position: 56°2.89'N, 12°41.84'E

The Helsingborg ferry terminal viewed from the top of the tower Karnan.

Position: 56°2.90'N, 12°41.85'E

Striking Gothic rib vault supporting the third floor in the tower Karnan. The remains of a balcony are visible at right—the room used to have two floors with a staircase leading up to a balcony.

Position: 56°2.88'N, 12°41.35'E

Jennifer posing with rabbit statues outside Dunkers Kulturhus, Helsinborg's cultural center.

Position: 56°2.78'N, 12°41.19'E

Looking across a pleasure craft marina to Helsinborg's cultural center, Dunkers Kulturhus, at right. The building was designed by Danish architect Kim Utzon, the son of Sidney Opera House architect Jorn Utzon.

Position: 56°2.72'N, 12°41.21'E

The 85ft (25.85m) Faero Island-registered Swtizer Valand, built in 1998, at the Port of Helsingborg.

Position: 56°2.52'N, 12°41.10'E

We walked out along the breakwater to watch the ferries come and go. With a ferry every 20 minutes, we didn't have to wait long. This the ferry we took across, the Tycho Brahe, arriving into Helsingborg.

Position: 56°2.53'N, 12°41.11'E

During the short unload and reload cycle of the electric ferries Aurora and Tycho Brahe, a robotic arm plugs them into shorepower. Here the arm is reaching out to plug in the Tycho Brahe shortly after the automatic docking system is engaged.

Position: 56°2.64'N, 12°41.30'E

Sculpture of a capstan used to move ships around the Helsingborg harbour in the 19th century.

Position: 56°2.73'N, 12°41.55'E

Enjoying a craft beer in the sun along the Helsingborg waterfront at Hamnkrogen.

Position: 56°2.75'N, 12°41.73'E

We enjoyed Pinchos Tapas restaurant in Gothensburg so much that we had to stop in for dinner when we saw one in Helsingborg.

Position: 56°2.61'N, 12°41.44'E

The robotic arm that plugs in the electric ferries Aurora and Tycho Brahe is parked in a glass-sided case with a metal roll-down front that opens automatically when the arm is in use. In the picture the arm is visible partly inside the glass-sided case that it's normally parked in, but here it is active. So the front of the case is open as the robotic arm has reached out to grasp the shorepower connection and remove it seconds before the Aurora gets underway.

Position: 56°2.50'N, 12°41.28'E

Departing Helsingborg at dusk on the electric ferry Aurora.

Position: 56°2.35'N, 12°41.23'E

The Oresund at dusk as we return to Helsingor.

Position: 55°45.11'N, 12°38.83'E

The Middelgrunden wind farm in the Oresund just east of Copenhagen, produces about 4% of the city's power. The 20-turbine, 40 MW facility was the largest wind farm in the world when completed in 2000.

Position: 55°45.11'N, 12°38.83'E

The 5-mile (8km) Oresund Bridge connects the island of Zealand in Denmark to mainland Sweden in conjunction with a 2.5-mile (4km) tunnel. Along with the Great Belt Fixed Link, at connecting the west side of Zealand to the Jutland peninsula, this bridge provides a rail and road connection between Scandinavia and central Europe.

Position: 55°45.11'N, 12°38.83'E

The island of Amager visible to our south with several large industrial complexes. The sloped-roof building on the right is the innovative waste-to-energy plant Amager Bakke with a year-round, no-snow ski hill built onto the roof. We'll get a closer look as we continue south.

Position: 55°43.57'N, 12°38.43'E

We had to make a detour to clear the new artificial land, not shown on our charts, for the North Harbour Redevelopment project. The development will provide residential, commercial and office space as an extension to the city of Copenhagen.

Position: 55°43.14'N, 12°38.16'E

A 'Welcome to Copenhagen' sign at the cruise ship terminal. We're very excited to finally be arriving and are looking forward to spending time exploring the city.

Position: 55°43.01'N, 12°37.88'E

The global warehouse and distribution center for UNICEF (United Nations Children's Fund). The building is about the size of three football fields and annually supplies well over $100M worth of goods worldwide.

Position: 55°42.53'N, 12°36.78'E

We initially were planning to approach Copenhagen through the main channel, but as we neared a sign indicated that pleasure craft could not enter. The sign isn't visible until quite close, and directs all pleasure craft towards a channel on the left. They are probably trying to separate commercial and recreational traffic during the busy summer months. This is an easy and short diversion.

Position: 55°42.33'N, 12°37.22'E

Trekroner Sofort ('Three Crowns Sea Fort'), completed in the early 18th century, is one of three artificial islands created to defend the entrance to the harbour.

Position: 55°42.02'N, 12°37.37'E

One advantage of the pleasure-craft detour is that we got a close look at Amager Bakke with it's all-season ski slope clearly visible. Alongside the slope is hiking trails and walking paths. The facility had it's grand opening this past weekend and we're looking forward to checking it out in person.

Position: 55°41.71'N, 12°36.20'E

Looking over the grassy ramparts of the 17th-century fortress Kastellet, with it's prominent 19th-century windmill. Kastellet is also on our to-do list to visit while we're in Copenhagen.

Position: 55°41.62'N, 12°36.16'E

Seaplane base just outside of Copenhagen. Compared to British Columbia, on Canada's west coast, seaplanes are surprisingly uncommon in the Baltic. This is the first we can recall seeing all year.

Position: 55°41.52'N, 12°36.13'E

The world-wide headquarters of Danish shipping company A.P. Moller - Maersk. We've seen many of their ships as we've travelled around the world. Most recently we spotted the 1,309 ft (399 m) Magleby Maersk, one of the largest container ships in the world, with a capacity of 18,270 TEUs. As part of Copenhagen's annual culture night, we were later able to tour the Maersk facility and visit their private museum.

Position: 55°41.42'N, 12°36.09'E

The dramatic Copenhagen Opera House, completed in 2004, is one of the many examples of striking Danish architecture in and around Copenhagen. Also as part of the city's annual culture night, we were able to tour the building and take in a mini-opera there.

Position: 55°41.32'N, 12°36.05'E

Industrial building housing the Royal Cast Collection over over 2,000 plaster casts. It was common practice in the past to make casts of famous statues in order to produce copies that could be distributed to other museums.

Position: 55°40.75'N, 12°35.55'E

Our final destination was Nyhavn, a 17th century canal lined with pastel-coloured historic buildings. The ten-minute video shows our arrival into central Copenhagen, taking in the sights and views on the way to our berth right downtown in historic Nyhavn canal.

Position: 55°40.75'N, 12°35.55'E

We had only tied off two lines and were plugging into shore power when the Danish police arrived to check our Schengen immigration status. That was fast—our US ensign definitely attracts the local officials.

Position: 55°40.74'N, 12°35.59'E

Dirona moored in historic Nyhavn to spend a week exploring Copenhagen.

Position: 55°40.80'N, 12°35.46'E

Crowds of people enjoying the sunny weather along Nyhavn. Given it's mid-week in early October, summer must be really busy.

Position: 55°40.79'N, 12°35.48'E

A fun lunch outside along Nyhavn at McJoy's Choice, within view of Dirona (out of the picture behind the camera).

Position: 55°40.84'N, 12°35.28'E

As in Amsterdam, canal tours are popular in Copenhagen. The tour boats also look similar to those in the Dutch capital: wide and low.

Position: 55°40.82'N, 12°35.14'E

Statue in Kongens Nytorv (The New King's Square) of Christian V who laid out the square in 1670 as part of a major expansion of the fortified city. In the winter, a skating rink is built in the square.

Position: 55°40.84'N, 12°35.11'E

Branch of Sydbank in an historic building off Kongens Nytorv.

Position: 55°40.78'N, 12°35.11'E

The Royal Danish Theatre on Kongens Nytorv was completed in 1874.

Position: 55°40.67'N, 12°34.96'E

Many of the buildings in Copenhagen are built around central courtyards. We often see cars parked like this, just inside a narrow passage.

Position: 55°40.72'N, 12°34.86'E

St. Nicholas Church, built in the 13th century, is now home to a contemporary art center.

Position: 55°40.67'N, 12°34.80'E

Statue in Hojbro Plads of Bishop Absalon, who founded Copenhagen in 1167.

Position: 55°40.63'N, 12°34.89'E

Enjoying a glass of wine from the excellent selection at wine bar Ved Stranden 10.

Position: 55°40.58'N, 12°34.88'E

Statue of Frederik VII, erected outside Christiansborg Palace in 1873. Frederik VII was king from 1848 to 1863 and is best known for his role in transitioning Denmark from absolute monarchy to a parliamentary system.

Position: 55°40.49'N, 12°34.67'E

Christiansborg Palace, now the seat of the Danish Parliament, is the fifth castle built in this location. The first, built in 1167 by Copenhagen's founder Bishop Absalon, was destroyed in the 1300s. A second castle, completed later in the 14th century, was demolished to make way for Christian IV’s grandiose baroque palace in the late 1700s, the first of three to be called Christiansborg Palace. After a fire destroyed that palace in 1794, another was built in the early 1800s that too succumbed to fire in 1884. The current Christiansborg Palace was built in the early 1900s.

Position: 55°40.50'N, 12°34.64'E

Like a parking garage remote-controlled door, workers leaving Christiansborg Palace can lower the security bollards to drive out.

Position: 55°40.48'N, 12°34.87'E

The Royal Library Garden, designed in 1920, is a beautiful oasis between Christiansborg Palace and the Royal Library.

Position: 55°40.37'N, 12°34.83'E

The Black Diamond, a striking modern glass and granite extension to the traditional red brick Royal Library building (concealed by scaffolding on the left).

Position: 55°40.34'N, 12°34.74'E

Canal tour boat heading along Frederiksholms Kanal, dug out in 1681 as part of an extension of Copenhagen's West Rampart.

Position: 55°40.39'N, 12°34.70'E

The BLOX cultural center, one of many dramatic modern buildings in Copenhagen.

Position: 55°40.45'N, 12°34.63'E

The elegant Rococo-style Marble Bridge leads across Frederiksholms Kanal to Christiansborg Palace. It was completed in the late 1700s as part of the palace construction.

Position: 55°40.57'N, 12°34.53'E

Magstraede, built in the 1520s, is Copenhagen's oldest street. The oldest building on the street dates from the 1640s.

Position: 55°40.65'N, 12°34.40'E

Copenhagen's District Court Domhuset was completed in 1815 in the Neoclassical style.

Position: 55°40.56'N, 12°34.15'E

Radhus, Copenhagen's ornate city hall, was built in 1905.

Position: 55°40.52'N, 12°34.14'E

Statue outside Radhus of prolific Danish author Hans Christian Anderson. He penned plays, novels and poems, but is most famous for his fairy tales that include "The Little Mermaid", "The Emperor's New Clothes", and "The Princess and the Pea".

Position: 55°40.58'N, 12°34.16'E

The Scandic Palace Hotel, built in 1910 as a hotel for royals and well-heeled local and international guests. Judy Garland, Audrey Hepburn and Errol Flynn are among the hotel's many famous guests.

Position: 55°40.71'N, 12°34.89'E

Enjoying a drink at Restaurant Maven, built into St. Nicholas Church.

Position: 55°40.71'N, 12°34.95'E

A delicious meal at Vingaarden overlooking Vingardstraede.

Position: 55°40.79'N, 12°35.17'E

Magasin Du Nord, a major department store, occupies the original site of the Hotel du Nord that was built in 1894 in the French Renaissance style.

Position: 55°40.79'N, 12°35.40'E

A calm evening in Nyhavn, with the historic pastel-colored buildings reflecting into still waters.

Position: 55°40.75'N, 12°35.55'E

The temperature is falling, so it's time to switch from our lightweight summer quilt to a heavier winter one. We keep the one not in use stored in large bags that can be sealed and then compressed with a vacuum, reducing the storage space they take and also keeping moisture out.

Position: 55°40.99'N, 12°35.21'E

Picking up some delicious baked goods at Meyers Bageri near Nyhavn.

Position: 55°40.75'N, 12°35.55'E

Scheherazade, the boat behind is at Nyhavn, is a Mason. PAE, the designer of the Nordhavn brand, got their start building strong sailing vessels called Masons and the owner of Scheherazade was very familiar with the Nordhavn brand. If you ever look closely at a Mason beside a Nordhavn, you'll immediately see the design similarities.

Position: 55°40.59'N, 12°35.35'E

Jennifer enjoying a bounce on some trampolines along the waterway in Copenhagen.

Position: 55°40.50'N, 12°34.74'E

Today we returned to Christiansborg Palace to tour the grounds and various exhibits. We started with the Royal Stables, completed in 1740 and the only parts of Christian IV’s original Christiansborg Palace to escape the 1794 fire. At its height, the stables housed 250 horses, used for transportation, entertainment and war.

Position: 55°40.50'N, 12°34.74'E

Horses are still kept in the Royal Stables and used for ceremonial purposes, but only 20 compared to the 250 that once were housed here. The breed are Kladrubers from the Czech Republic, known for being gentle and intelligent, and the choice for drawing royal coaches for centuries.

Position: 55°40.50'N, 12°34.74'E

Inside the stables are a collection of royal coaches from past centuries to present. The 1840 Gold State Coach is the most famous because it use used for the most special events, such as transporting the Royal Couple to the great New Year's Reception at Christiansborg Palace.

Position: 55°40.56'N, 12°34.76'E

The Court Theater at Christiansborg Palace was built in 1767 above the Royal Stables and so also survived the 1794 fire. It still is a working theatre, but also houses a museum showcasing the theatre's history. This is looking towards the stage from the box of Frederick VII's, the king who abolished the absolute monarchy.

Position: 55°40.56'N, 12°34.76'E

Model of the Court Theater showing how the stage is built above the stables.

Position: 55°40.58'N, 12°34.81'E

The current Christiansborg Palace is the fifth major castle or palace built on the site. An extensive underground exhibit beneath the palace takes visitors through the remains of those previous structures, including wells, plumbing and the original ring wall of Bishop Absalon's 1167 fortress. The brick structure at the upper right is the remains of a tower from Absalon's Castle and the large rocks at upper left are the foundation from the second castle.

Position: 55°40.56'N, 12°34.71'E

The Royal Kitchen at Christiansborg Palace is equipped and furnished as it was in Christian X's time. For the king's Silver Jubilee in 1937, the kitchen catered to 275 guests, the largest royal banquet held for 90 years.

Position: 55°40.39'N, 12°34.91'E

Another view to the Black Diamond, a dramatic modern extension to the Royal Library.

Position: 55°40.37'N, 12°34.92'E

Fountains outside the Black Diamond.

Position: 55°40.39'N, 12°34.93'E

Inside the expansive atrium of the Black Diamond extension to the Royal Library.

Position: 55°40.45'N, 12°34.91'E

The Old Reading Room in the original Royal Library looks like something out of a Harry Potter movie.

Position: 55°40.67'N, 12°34.74'E

Delicious burgers at Cocks' and Cows near Christiansborg Palace (Cocks' is an abbreviation of cocktails).

Position: 55°40.74'N, 12°35.55'E

The Copenhagen evening was a little chilly, but not enough the chase these late-night diners inside, even without heaters.

Position: 55°40.75'N, 12°35.55'E

Blog readers Peter & Pia Moller have been giving us great advice on the Copenhagen area and stopped by for a visit. They are planning to live aboard their yacht and were interested in our experience and advice, particularly in the winter.

Position: 55°40.45'N, 12°35.64'E

Boat-filled canal in Christianshavns Canal, south across the waterway from our moorage at Nyhavn in Copenhagen.

Position: 55°40.36'N, 12°35.65'E

Looking up to the 311-ft (95m) high steeple of 17th-centre Vor Frelsers Kirke in Christianshavn.

Position: 55°40.37'N, 12°35.64'E

400 steps lead to the top of the spire of Vor Frelsers Kirke, with the last 150 running along the outside of the tower. People who are afraid of heights will want to skip this one :).

Position: 55°40.37'N, 12°35.64'E

The exterior stairs of the Vor Frelsers Kirke spire get progressively narrower as they ascend. Here Jennifer barely fits near the top stairs.

Position: 55°40.37'N, 12°35.64'E

The spectacular view north from the top of Vor Frelsers Kirke spire (click image for a larger view). The neighbourhood of Christianshavn is in the foreground with the main Copenhagen waterway beyond. The brown spire near the center, behind the green-roofed buildings, is Christiansborg Palace with Frederiksholms Kanal to the right. A bit to the left is the slanted, black box-shaped structure of the Black Diamond. The entry to Nyhavn, where Dirona is moored but not visible, is at the far right, near the large brown and black building.

Position: 55°40.37'N, 12°35.64'E

One of the 48 bells in the Vor Frelsers Kirke carillon (bells played using a keyboard or automatic mechanism).

Position: 55°40.37'N, 12°35.64'E

Modern keyboard to control the carillon at Vor Frelsers Kirke, with the older keyboard in the background.

Position: 55°40.37'N, 12°35.65'E

One of the earliest mechanisms to control the carillon at Vor Frelsers Kirke, dating from 1699.

Position: 55°40.41'N, 12°35.80'E

At the entrance to the Freetown Christiania commune in Christianshavn. The former abandoned military base was taken over by squatters in 1971 and, after various standoffs with the police, the community has been allowed to continue. The police don't take a completely hands-off approach though—while walking through the community we saw a large area cordoned-off for a police investigation.

Position: 55°40.48'N, 12°36.00'E

The former military riding yard became the Den Gra Hal (The Grey Hall) concert hall in Christiania commune. Notable artists who have played here include Bob Dylan, Red Hot Chili Peppers, and Metallica.

Position: 55°40.68'N, 12°35.82'E

It was just warm enough to have lunch outside at The Bridge Street Kitchen. Our lunch of Korean BBQ ribs is being prepared on the smoke-filled barbecue in front of MAK-CIK at left.

Position: 55°40.98'N, 12°36.60'E

After lunch, we walked east from Christianshavn to the island of Amager. Generally everything we've seen in Copenhagen, and Denmark, has been pristine and well-maintained, but we found an exception on our walk. Dozens of derelict vessels, many partly or completely sunk, lined the waterway, and the police arrived as we were passing what appeared to be a stolen bicycle ring.

Position: 55°41.05'N, 12°36.97'E

We'd come to Amager to check out Amager Bakke, the innovative waste-to-energy plant with a year-round, no-snow ski hill built onto the roof that we'd seen on the way into Copenhagen.

Position: 55°41.06'N, 12°37.17'E

Walking paths and hiking trails lead up the sides of Amager Bakke, with ski lifts on one side. Several skiers were on the "slopes" as we climbed. What a wild creation.

Position: 55°41.06'N, 12°37.14'E

Looking east from the top of Amager Bakke to the Middelgrunden wind farm that we saw on the way into Copenhagen.

Position: 55°41.05'N, 12°37.16'E

The view west to Copenhagen through glass panels at the top of Amager Bakke.

Position: 55°41.06'N, 12°37.19'E

The large white smokestack near the center of the picture is an old industrial facility adjacent to Amager Bakke that was being dismantled as we walked down. At the bottom left is a line-up of trucks carrying waste for Amager Bakke to convert to energy.

Position: 55°41.07'N, 12°37.15'E

We were hoping to get a glimpse inside the Amager Bakke facility during our hike up to the top, but no windows into the facility were available. We learned that the elevator did have a view though. It was an effort for us to avoid taking the elevator about fifty times and completely wipe out any energy savings the facility might enjoy. :)

Position: 55°41.04'N, 12°37.13'E

Having a drink at the Amager Bakke Ski Center cafe, with a view to the facility at left.

Position: 55°41.01'N, 12°36.39'E

Sailors were up in the rigging of the training ship Georg Stage as we passed the Holmen Navy Base on our way back to Dirona. The ship was purpose-built in 1934 at Copenhagen's Frederikshavn Shipyard.

Position: 55°40.98'N, 12°36.28'E

Just beyond the Georg Stage were several fabulous floathomes made from old ferries with huge sheets of glass at either end of the house where vehicles once passed.

Position: 55°40.83'N, 12°36.06'E

A view from another angle to the dramatic Copenhagen Opera House that we saw as we arrived into he city.

Position: 55°40.75'N, 12°35.55'E

Blog reader Carsten Barner Nielsen keeps a boat in Copenhagen and stopped by for a visit. We all work in information technology and share a love of boats—we enjoyed the discussion.

Position: 55°40.72'N, 12°34.40'E

We had an excellent dinner at Maexico City restaurant in Copenhagen's Latin Quarter.

Position: 55°40.68'N, 12°34.64'E

We couldn't resist taking this arched pedestrian walkway between Stroget and Laederstraede.

Position: 55°40.70'N, 12°34.72'E

Restaurant-filled Laederstraede in Copenhagen was filled with patrons enjoying an evening meal or drink outside under the patio heaters.

Position: 55°40.75'N, 12°35.55'E

The morning sun lighting up the historic buildings along Nyhavn behind our berth.

Position: 58°29.89'N, 16°15.69'E

While we were taking a picture of our approach to the Vannegerga Bridge, Egon Behlert was standing at the water's edge near his silver camping van taking a picture of us as we passed through. He tracked us down and just sent us this photo that reminds us of how tight it was in there for Dirona. Thanks to Egon for passing along this picture.

Position: 55°40.75'N, 12°35.54'E

Launching the tender for a canal tour of Copenhagen. This was a little tricky with a busy sidewalk so close to the boat deck level. We had to be careful to keep the tender away from the occupied sidewalk as we swung it around from the starboard to the port side.

Position: 55°40.58'N, 12°35.01'E

Passing under one of the low bridges in Frederiksholms Kanal at the start of a Copenhagen canal tour by tender.

Position: 55°40.56'N, 12°35.04'E

The south side of Dutch Renaissance-style church Holmens Kirke, built in 1641.

Position: 55°40.54'N, 12°35.18'E

You can see why the Copenhagen canal tour boats are so wide and low—they need to be to clear the bridges.

Position: 55°40.37'N, 12°34.93'E

View from the water to the Black Diamond modern extension to the Royal Library.

Position: 55°40.50'N, 12°34.60'E

Detail of a lion on the iconic Marble Bridge that crosses leads across Frederiksholms Kanal to the courtyard of Christiansborg Palace.

Position: 55°40.50'N, 12°34.60'E

Ornate sculptures above one of the two pavilions where the Marble Bridge meets Christiansborg Palace.

Position: 55°40.58'N, 12°34.61'E

Historic buildings overlooking Frederiksholms Kanal along Nybrogade.

Position: 55°40.25'N, 12°34.72'E

View from the water to the BLOX cultural center.

Position: 55°40.02'N, 12°34.34'E

Kalvebod Bolge is an extension to the waterfront with promenades at different levels and providing space for a variety of water activities such as kayaking and swimming.

Position: 55°39.91'N, 12°34.19'E

One of many dramatic modern buildings we saw on our canal tour: the headquarters for IDA, the Danish Society of Engineers.

Position: 55°39.89'N, 12°34.10'E

Striking float home along the Copenhagen waterfront. It's Premier real-estate, if not for the absence of land. We wonder what permissions are required to put a float home along the waterway..

Position: 55°39.82'N, 12°33.94'E

The headquarters for Swedbank in Copenhagen, a branch of the Swedish company Swedbank AB.

Position: 55°39.75'N, 12°33.85'E

Passing under the Cykelslangen (Cycling Snake), a dedicated raised cycling path between Fisketorvet Shopping Center and Brygge Bridge.

Position: 55°39.71'N, 12°33.78'E

Spiral staircase inside a glass-enclosed atrium.

Position: 55°39.67'N, 12°33.72'E

The Fisketorvet Shopping Center opposite a small canal from modern office buildings.

Position: 55°39.77'N, 12°33.99'E

The spectacular Aller House is the headquarters of Aller Media, a magazine publisher in the Nordic countries.

Position: 55°39.52'N, 12°33.88'E

The striking Havneholmen apartment buildings.

Position: 55°39.22'N, 12°33.61'E

The H. C. Orsted Power Station was the largest in Denmark when it came online in 1920 and was coal-fueled until converted to natural gas in 1994. The Danish-built Burmeister & Wain diesel engine installed in a 1932 expansion was the largest in the world for about 30 years. The engine, still in place as a museum exhibit, is 80ft (24.6) long, 41feet (12.5m) high and weighs 1400 tons.

Position: 55°39.09'N, 12°33.53'E

The Danish headquarters for MAN Energy Solutions. MAN is a leading supplier of marine engines and, according to company literature, "one in every two ships plying the world's oceans is powered by a MAN diesel engine." MAN builds both two and four-stroke engines, and two-stroke engines are developed at this facility.

Position: 55°39.72'N, 12°34.10'E

Gemini Residence is an apartment building created by converting two former seed silos.

Position: 55°39.77'N, 12°34.19'E

Another apartment building that appears to have been converted from a set of former silos.

Position: 55°40.15'N, 12°34.67'E

The Copenhagen Harbour Baths, an outdoor swimming pool on the island of Brygge. Even on a cold October day people were swimming there.

Position: 55°40.33'N, 12°35.05'E

The Circle Bridge pedestrian bridge, made with intersecting circles and poles resembling ship's masts, a nod to the cities maritime past.

Position: 55°40.41'N, 12°35.56'E

Sun-dappled buildings in Christianshavns Canal.

Position: 55°40.41'N, 12°35.56'E

We had to pull over to make room for this canal boat to pass. At this location, you couldn't have passed this tour boat in a canoe.

Position: 55°40.73'N, 12°35.79'E

View to Dirona at Nyhavn as we continue our tender tour east of our berth.

Position: 55°40.93'N, 12°35.90'E

The dramatic Copenhagen Opera House.

Position: 55°40.98'N, 12°35.86'E

The Danish navy Diana-class patrol vessel HDMS Najaden

Position: 55°40.98'N, 12°35.79'E

The impressive dome of 18th-century Marmokirken was based on St. Peter's in Rome and is the largest church dome in Scandanavia.

Position: 55°41.35'N, 12°36.02'E

The 369-ft (112.65 m) Danish frigate HDMS Peder Skram at Holmen Navy Yard. This ship, launched in 1965 and decommissioned in 1990, is CODOG-powered (combined diesel and gas) to allow efficient low-speed operation using diesel reciprocating engines but still deliver high speeds using powerful gas turbine engines.

Position: 55°41.65'N, 12°36.02'E

Trekroner Sofort ('Three Crowns Sea Fort'), completed in the early 18th century, is one of three artificial islands created to defend the entrance to the harbour.

Position: 55°41.65'N, 12°35.99'E

Langelinie Lystbadehavns Badelav, a small boat harbour northeast of the Copenhagen city center.

Position: 55°41.72'N, 12°36.02'E

The cruise ship AIDAmar moored at Copenhagen.

Position: 55°41.88'N, 12°35.94'E

The beautiful Alm Brand headquarters building. The Danish insurance and financial services company was founded in 1792.

Position: 55°41.94'N, 12°35.91'E

Danish professor Bjorn Norgaard created a sculpture group called "The Genetically Modified Paradise," designed to be a "provocative and humorous look at postmodern society". The set includes a genetically modified Little Mermaid, in the water at left, based on the city's famous statue.

Position: 55°41.99'N, 12°35.87'E

DFDS Seaways ship Pearl Seaways at the Port of Copenhagen. The company operates freight and passenger services throughout Northern Europe.

Position: 55°42.13'N, 12°35.92'E

The innovative office complex and workspace Pier47.

Position: 55°42.22'N, 12°36.12'E

Portland Towers, an office complex created from former silos owned by the cement company Aalborg Portland. We're really loving the architecture in Copenhagen.

Position: 55°41.87'N, 12°36.13'E

Here we have 0.1 gallons remaining, but the good news is we're averaging 5.6nm/gallon and we're only a couple of miles away from Dirona. We also carry 1.25 gallons of emergency fuel with us on all trips.

Position: 55°41.40'N, 12°36.26'E

Sculptures on the wharf at Refshaleoen, a former shipyard now converted to creative and recreational uses.

Position: 55°41.40'N, 12°36.26'E

Beautiful glass float homes at Refshaleoen.

Position: 55°41.39'N, 12°36.15'E

Naval Station Holmen reflects its 17th-century founding.

Position: 55°40.80'N, 12°35.38'E

A delicious late lunch at Nyhavn 33 where the paintings on the wall were painted directly onto the wall.

Position: 55°41.00'N, 12°34.84'E

Statue of Viggo Horup, a leading advocate for parliamentary government in Denmark. The statue is in the corner of Kongens Have (King's Garden) adjacent to Rosenberg castle, and are one of the oldest gardens in Copenhagen, dating from the 17th century.

Position: 55°41.04'N, 12°34.55'E

Rosenborg Castle, one of Christian IV's many architectural projects, was built in the Dutch Renaissance in the 17th century and was a royal residence until 1710. The castle has been open to the public since 1838 and houses the Royal Collection of Danish cultural items from the late 16th to the 19th century.

Position: 55°40.95'N, 12°34.31'E

Copenhagen is the only city we've been in that even comes close to Amsterdam for cycling. Cyclists pass our berth at Nyhavn as frequently as they did in Amsterdam and we see bicycles everywhere in the city.

Position: 55°40.92'N, 12°34.48'E

Fountain in Kultorvet (the "Coal Market") an old public square created in 1728 where coal once was traded.

Position: 55°40.88'N, 12°34.54'E

Christian IV built the 114ft (34.8m) Rundetarn (the "Round Tower") in the 17th century as an observatory.

Position: 55°40.88'N, 12°34.55'E

Rather than stairs, a ramp leads up to the top of the tower, and to the church and library. The design allows a horse-drawn carriage to transport library books and heavy or sensitive observatory equipment.

Position: 55°40.88'N, 12°34.56'E

Great view across Copenhagen from the top of Rundetarn. The spire in the distance, slightly left of center, is Christiansborg Palace.

Position: 55°40.89'N, 12°34.56'E

We spent some time in the Danish Astronautical Society's excellent exhibit "Around the Moon" in Rundetarn, celebrating the 50th anniversary of the landing on the moon.

Position: 55°40.88'N, 12°34.55'E

At the rear, Rundetarn is attached to spectacular Trinitatis Church. They were built together as part of a project that also included a library.

Position: 55°40.78'N, 12°34.54'E

Copenhagen's square Grabrodretorv dates from the 13th century, when a Franciscan friary was established there.

Position: 55°40.80'N, 12°34.57'E

Historic pastel-painted buildings along Niels Hemmingsens Gade off Grabrodretorv.

Position: 55°40.70'N, 12°34.94'E

A light meal at Vingaarden. Their focaccia is superb.

Position: 55°41.07'N, 12°35.56'E

Amalienborg Slot, the official residence of Denmark's Royal Family, consists of four 18th-century identical palaces arranged around a cobbled square. This model shows the layout. Amalienborg was originally built for four noble families, but became the Royal Residence after Christiansborg Palace burned in 1794.

Position: 55°41.04'N, 12°35.58'E

Statue in Amalienborg Slot of Frederick V, the king of Denmark from 1746 to 1766, who founded Amalienborg.

Position: 55°41.07'N, 12°35.56'E

One of the palaces contains and exhibit featuring reconstructions of the various Royal Apartments at Amalienborg between 1863 and 1947. This is the drawing room of Queen Louise, who ascended the throne in 1863 with her husband Christian IX.

Position: 55°41.04'N, 12°35.58'E

The Changing of the Guard at Amalienborg Slot occurs daily at noon.

Position: 55°41.09'N, 12°35.40'E

The impressive dome of 18th-century Marmokirken (the "Marble Church") was based on St. Peter's in Rome and is the largest church dome in Scandinavia.

Position: 55°41.09'N, 12°35.40'E

The spectacular interior of Marmokirken. The church was consecrated in 1894.

Position: 55°41.10'N, 12°35.44'E

We've seen a surprisingly large number of classic American cars in Scandinavia. This Mustang Mach 1 was parked at Marmokirken.

Position: 55°41.12'N, 12°35.49'E

Aleksander Nevskij Kirke, commissioned by Tsar Alexander III of Russia, was completed in 1883 following the Russian Byzantine style.

Position: 55°41.17'N, 12°35.54'E

St. Ansgar's Cathedral was consecrated in 1842 and is the principal church of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Copenhagen, which covers Denmark, the Faroe Islands and Greenland.

Position: 55°41.28'N, 12°35.64'E

Statue in Churchillparken of a Valkyrie, a maiden in Norse legend who the god Odin sent to the battlefield to choose the slain.

Position: 55°41.29'N, 12°35.64'E

Tranquil Churchillparken, adjacent to the fortress Kastellet. The park was named after Winston Churchill to commemorate the British assistance in the liberation of Denmark during World War II.

Position: 55°41.39'N, 12°35.99'E

A great lunch along the water at Toldboden near the fortress Kastellet.

Position: 55°41.37'N, 12°35.97'E

The sculpture Global Visionary, made from a mixture of scrap metal shows "how we are all consist of different parts, but also how we are made from the same universal elements".

Position: 55°41.59'N, 12°35.97'E

Copenhagen's famous Little Mermaid statue, based on the story by Hans Christian Anderson, was commissioned in 1909 by Danish beer baron Carl Jacobsen. The statue is one of the most photographed sights in the country and is a symbol of the city, much to the chagrin of many Copenhagen residents, who would prefer a more dramatic icon for their city of spectacular and innovative architecture.

Position: 55°41.57'N, 12°35.94'E

The Little Mermaid statue had a crowd around it whenever we passed.

Position: 55°41.42'N, 12°35.71'E

Bronze relief map showing the star-shaped layout of the fort Kastellet, commissioned by Frederick III in 1662 just north of the city center.

Position: 55°41.42'N, 12°35.71'E

Colorful 18th-century barracks line the cobbled streets inside Kastellet.

Position: 55°41.40'N, 12°35.79'E

Looking from the Kastellet rampart to the entrance over the moat, with Marmokirken visible in the distance.

Position: 55°41.50'N, 12°35.50'E

The windmill inside Kastellet was built in 1847 to replace a previous one dating from 1718 that was destroyed by a storm.

Position: 55°41.54'N, 12°35.77'E

The Monument for Denmark’s International Effort Since 1948 inside Kastellet.

Position: 55°41.34'N, 12°35.81'E

St. Alban's Anglican Church in Churchillparken was dedicated in 1887 and is designed as a traditional English church.

Position: 55°41.32'N, 12°35.82'E

The dramatic Gefion Fountain outside Kastellet features the Norse god Gefion driving a large group of animals.

Position: 55°41.19'N, 12°35.53'E

After touring Kastellet, we stopped in at the excellent Designmuseum Danmark that showcases Danish architecture and design.

Position: 55°41.19'N, 12°35.53'E

Photograph at the Designmuseum Danmark of 8 House, an apartment building in Copenhagen in the shape of a figure 8. The building was designed by Danish firm BIG, who also designed the Maritime Museum of Denmark and Amager Bakke.

Position: 55°41.27'N, 12°35.86'E

We were lucky to be in Copenhagen for the city's annual culture night, where over 250 museums, churches, theatres, libraries, city buildings and businesses host a public open-house. Thank you to blog readers Peter & Pia Moller who told us about the event.

Here we are standing in line to visit the top venue on our list, the headquarters of Danish shipping company Maersk. We arrived about 15 minutes early for the 6pm opening and at least fifty people were ahead of us. By the time got in around 6:15 the line snaked way behind us in the distance. It's a popular event—Peter and Pia said this is the first year Maersk has participated and the building is of course, not normally open to the public.

Position: 55°41.26'N, 12°35.89'E

Learning about container shipping inside Maersk headquarters.

Position: 55°41.26'N, 12°35.89'E

A large number of Maersk employees were on hand to present and answer questions for the Culture Night event, including ship's captains.

Position: 55°41.28'N, 12°35.84'E

After touring the Maersk headquarters building, we visited the excellent Maersk Museum. The private museum is not normally open to the public and had wonderful displays and models depicting the company's past and present. We spent ages speaking with one of the knowledgeable Maersk representatives.

Position: 55°41.16'N, 12°35.84'E

After the Maersk visit, we stopped in at the Royal Cast Collection that includes casts of such famous statues as Venus de Milo. We were intrigued by the purpose of the castings and were given a great explanation by one of the curators. In the past, castings were taken of famous statues so that replicas could be made and distributed to museums around the world. Nowadays people want to see the original, not a copy, but in the 18th and 19th centuries travel was less of an option and a copy was still worth seeing. Today the casts are less-popular, and often discarded, but a large number have been brought together in this collection.

Position: 55°40.93'N, 12°36.04'E

Our next Culture Night stop was the Copenhagen Opera House. Here is the view from inside.

Position: 55°40.93'N, 12°36.04'E

The spectacular auditorium in the Copenhagen Opera House. Normally photography isn't allowed inside, but the rules are laxer for Culture Night.

Position: 55°40.93'N, 12°36.04'E

The orchestra getting read to play in the Copenhagen Opera House.

Position: 55°40.93'N, 12°36.04'E

We thoroughly enjoyed a 15-minute mini-opera in the Copenhagen Opera House.

Position: 55°40.92'N, 12°36.03'E

View south to Copenhagen from the Opera House. A heavy rain has been falling all night, but it didn't seem to damper the enthusiasm of the Culture Night attendees.

Position: 55°40.40'N, 12°34.93'E

Our final Culture Night stop was the Royal Danish Library to see the spectacular "Mirror Ball" display inside the Black Diamond atrium.

Position: 55°40.46'N, 12°34.93'E

Normally on library patrons can go inside the Reading Room in the Royal Danish Library. But it was open on Culture Night, so we had a chance to go inside.

Position: 55°40.68'N, 12°35.28'E

The final Culture Night display we saw was a modern military tank. You can see how hard it is raining. We were drenched when we got home, but had a fabulous time. Thanks to Peter & Pia Moller for alerting us to the Culture Night event.

Position: 55°39.77'N, 12°33.72'E

At Fisketorvet Shopping Mall for a quick lunch before a tour by bike of the Orestad neighbourhood of Copenhagen, known for its spectacular modern architecture.

Position: 55°39.77'N, 12°33.72'E

The sculpture Shoal No.8 consists of 8,500 stainless steel fish suspended from an atrium at Fisketorvet Shopping Mall.

Position: 55°39.73'N, 12°33.90'E

Riding across the Cykelslangen (Cycling Snake), a dedicated raised cycling path between Fisketorvet Shopping Center and Brygge Bridge.

Position: 55°39.61'N, 12°35.20'E

The Boligslangen (the "Housing Snake") is so named because the group of apartment buildings wind through the landscape.

Position: 55°39.61'N, 12°35.19'E

The Tietgen Residence Hall in the University of Copenhagen's South Campus was inspired by traditional Tulou houses in Southeastern China that combine individual dwellings and communal spaces. The interior of the building is an open-air circular park.

Position: 55°39.74'N, 12°35.34'E

From a distance we could see these small raised hills and were curious what they were. They turned out to be covered bicycle parking.

Position: 55°39.65'N, 12°35.43'E

The University of Copenhagen South Campus (left) along Emil Holms Kanal.

Position: 55°39.40'N, 12°35.35'E

DR Koncerthuset by French architect Jean Nouvel consists of four separate concert halls, each with a different architecture and expression.

Position: 55°38.44'N, 12°35.03'E

The striking Marriott AC Hotel Bella Sky Copenhagen consists of two leaning, curved towers with a sky bridge between them at the top.

Position: 55°38.08'N, 12°34.96'E

VM Mountain residences were designed by innovative Danish architecture firm BIG, who also designed the Maritime Musuem of Denmark and Amager Bakke.

Position: 55°38.10'N, 12°35.04'E

Each of the 80 units in VM Mountain have terrace decks and roof gardens with views of Orestad and East Amager.

Position: 55°37.67'N, 12°34.71'E

The Ericsson Denmark building, designed with a slight curve in the face.

Position: 55°37.57'N, 12°34.36'E

The Royal Arena, completed in 2017, is designed to be a public space and to present a more transparent and welcoming presence than typical stadiums with the slatted timber sheathing allowing views inwards and outwards. In this case, "Royal" is the beer, rather than the monarchy.

Position: 55°37.01'N, 12°34.27'E

Incredible 8 House, by innovative Danish architecture firm BIG, who also designed the Maritime Museum of Denmark and Amager Bakke. The apartment building is in the shape of a figure eight, visible in the satellite imagery or in this photograph.

Position: 55°37.59'N, 12°35.24'E

Copenhagen is very bicycle-friendly—even the most remote roads have dedicated bicycle paths.

Position: 55°39.91'N, 12°37.93'E

The Maritime Youth House was built on the site of polluted soil. Rather than spending money to remove the soil, the architects instead covered it with an undulating deck that forms part of the structure's roof, leaving more money for the building.

Position: 55°40.33'N, 12°35.01'E

Crossing the Circle Bridge pedestrian bridge. It is made with intersecting circles and poles that resemble ship's masts, a nod to the city's maritime past. We earlier passed under the Circle Bridge in our tender.

Position: 55°40.82'N, 12°35.37'E

A great dinner at nautical-themed Cap Horn along Nyhavn.

Position: 55°40.77'N, 12°35.49'E

Dirona, aglow in blue just left of center, moored at Nyhavn in downtown Copenhagen.

Position: 55°40.74'N, 12°35.70'E

The dramatic Copenhagen Opera House lit up as we depart Nyhavn shortly past 4am. We had an 82nm run ahead of us and wanted to get in well before dark to enjoy a bit of an evening at the anchorage.

Position: 55°28.60'N, 12°38.83'E

We're seeing plenty of AIS traffic in the Oresund shipping channel as we run south. At 6:30am we're starting to get enough light that we can actually see some of them now. Also visible on the chart at upper right is the 48-turbine, 110 MW Lillgrund wind farm in Sweden.

Position: 55°16.54'N, 12°29.50'E

The Stevns Klint lighthouse to our west. The 15 km-long fossil-rich cliff Stevns Klint is a UNESCO World Heritage sight for "offering exceptional evidence of the impact of the Chicxulub meteorite that crashed into the planet at the end of the Cretaceous, about 65 million years ago. Researchers think that this caused the most remarkable mass extinction ever, responsible for the disappearance of over 50 per cent of all life on Earth."

Position: 55°6.42'N, 12°12.58'E

We wanted to take a shortcut through the shallow channel Bogestrommen to reach the Storstrommen, but both our C-Map and Navionics charts indicated a dredged depth of 2 meters and Dirona draws just over that. We got some help from Anders Tang, of Denmark-based Nordhavn 40 Bo-Bo, who advised us that the dredged depth had been increased to 2.3 m in 2015. That would be tight, but doable. We saw a least depth of 7.4ft (2.25m) when we passed through mid-tide, but depths mostly were at least 8ft.

Position: 55°5.69'N, 12°11.15'E

Lots of traps are in the waterways around Bogestrommen, but fortunately none were in the actual channel, so we didn't have to dodge any.

Position: 54°59.88'N, 12°10.75'E

This fisher has strung nets between these stakes. We're not sure what's being done.

Position: 54°59.88'N, 12°10.75'E

Approaching the Queen Alexandrine Bridge across Ulvsund. The bridge, completed in 1943, was named after the wife of King Christian X of Denmark and has been depicted on the Danish 500 kroner note.

Position: 54°58.01'N, 12°5.82'E

Wonderfully calm conditions as we cruise the scenic Ulvsund.

Position: 54°58.20'N, 11°54.06'E

As we near the Storstrom Bridge, we'll be rejoining the path we took when we passed under this bridge on March 23rd en route to the Baltic. In the entire summer's 6-month, 2,652-mile cruise, we've rarely retraced our path. And what a fabulous summer it was—we had a spectacular time exploring Sweden, Finland and Denmark and likely will return in a couple of years to cruise the Gulf of Bothnia.

Position: 54°58.12'N, 11°53.64'E

The Storstrom Bridge is plastered with signs indicating that boats can only pass under the bridge at designated points.

Position: 54°58.31'N, 11°52.51'E

A massive building under construction at Orehoved, possibly for crop trader Getreide AG.

Position: 54°57.79'N, 11°23.75'E

After an 11.6-hour run, we ended the day in a sheltered anchorage off the island of Fejo and watched the Seattle Seahawks take on the the LA Rams on NFL Gamepass.

Position: 54°57.77'N, 11°23.80'E

Moonrise from the anchorage at the island of Fejo.

Position: 54°57.77'N, 11°23.80'E

The winds blew strongly from the south overnight. We had good protection from the island of Fejo, but you can see the arc we carved on chartplotter as the wind blew the boat around at anchor.

Position: 51°30.40'N, 0°4.28'W

The St. Katharine Docks newsletter showed a photo of a snow-covered boat moored there and we realized it was Dirona from our stay in early 2018.

Position: 54°43.12'N, 10°43.68'E

The Keldsnor Lighthouse had been operating since 1905 and is the largest on the island of Langeland.

Position: 54°39.81'N, 10°38.11'E

We were in head seas for the first couple of hours of our run to the Kiel Canal. You can see on the pitch graph, roughly at center, that we were pitching over 10 degrees for a period until we turned south west and put the wind more to our stern (click image for a larger view).

Position: 54°32.69'N, 10°24.59'E

Lowering our Danish courtesy flag as we cross the border to Germany.

Position: 54°32.59'N, 10°24.40'E

Raising a German courtesy flag as we enter Germany.

Position: 54°30.91'N, 10°20.24'E

The 652-ft (199m) DFDS ferry Athena Seaways en route to Kiel, Germany from Klaipeda, Lithuania. The ship, built in 2010, can carry 550 passengers.

Position: 54°25.30'N, 10°12.55'E

The 236-ft (72-m) Laboe Naval Memorial has an observation deck at the top. The structure was originally built as a memorial to those who died in World War I, but was expanded to include World War II and later sailors of all nationalities lost at sea. In front is the World War II submarine U-995, the only remaining type VII U-boat.

Position: 54°24.62'N, 10°12.08'E

We'd not been in German waters for long before our US ensign snagged another official inspection, this time from the German Coast Guard. They came alongside, but didn't board us and only wanted to check our Schengen immigration status. After handing over our passports for inspection, we were quickly underway again.

Position: 54°23.49'N, 10°11.70'E

The Friedrichsort lighthouse is a prominent landmark en route from the Baltic Sea to Kiel Harbour and the Kiel Canal.

Position: 54°23.00'N, 10°11.12'E

The ferry Heikendorf crossing the Kiel Fjord.

Position: 54°22.73'N, 10°10.67'E

View to Kiel and the naval shipyard there. We were planning to stop in Kiel for a night or two, but the maritime museum that we wanted to visit is closed for the winter, so we decided to save it for another time.

Position: 54°21.98'N, 10°9.02'E

The German Navy tug Lutje Horn exiting the Kiel-Holtenau lock as we arrive.

Position: 54°21.97'N, 10°9.01'E

The German barge Fluvius Teign exiting the Kiel-Holtenau lock behind the navy tug Lutje Horn.

Position: 54°21.98'N, 10°9.01'E

We waited less than ten minutes before the mast showed flashing white lights indicating that we could enter the lock.

Position: 54°21.98'N, 10°8.50'E

All alone in the Kiel-Holtenau Lock. It was an efficient and easy transit, much more so that our exit at the beginning of the year where we were packed in with a large commercial boat and a tugboat.

Position: 54°22.11'N, 10°7.91'E

Jennifer paying our transit fee for the Kiel Canal at a kiosk just inside the lock. For our 16.5m vessel the transit fee was €41 which is good for three days.

Position: 54°22.26'N, 10°6.51'E

We exited the lock just past 6pm and it was getting dark by the time we paid our fee and it would be very dark by the time we reached our destination of Lake Flemhude. Pleasure craft aren't normally allowed to operate at night, so we contacted the canal authorities for guidance. They said we couldn't overnight on the payment dock and gave us permission to continue through to Lake Flemhude.

Position: 54°21.59'N, 10°1.20'E

Running through the Kiel Canal at night felt a little challenging and even more so when two large ships passed us. At night, the close quarters of the Kiel Canal feel ten times closer and care is required to both keep off the shore but also give the commercial ships enough room to work.

Position: 54°20.36'N, 9°57.80'E

Jennifer attaching our lines to the pilings at Lake Flemhude, where we also stopped on our first trip through the Kiel Canal a year ago. The moorings in Lake Flemhude are designed for small boats to tie bow-and-stern between pilings that are organized in a grid. This has the advantage of allowing a large number of boats in a small area, but has the disadvantage that Dirona doesn't fit. We used the same solution as last time by tying off to the unused outside portions of the piling grid.

Position: 54°20.36'N, 9°57.80'E

After an 11-hour run from Denmark, passing through the Kiel-Holtenau Lock and navigating in the dark to Lake Flemhude, we were all ready to relax. Spitfire joined us outside.

Position: 54°20.55'N, 9°57.55'E

Passing the 421ft (128m) general cargo ship BBC Bergen shortly after getting underway from Lake Flemhude. The oncoming red ship visible in the distance is the 344-ft (105 m) oil/chemical tanker Fidelio.

Position: 54°20.50'N, 9°57.11'E

The 400-ft (122m) oil/chemical tanker Mainland.

Position: 54°19.69'N, 9°43.38'E

The superyacht builder Lurssen has their yard along the Kiel Canal. No yachts were in evidence today though.

Position: 54°17.76'N, 9°41.60'E

About to pass under the Rendsburg Bridge, the symbol for the city of the same name.

Position: 54°9.18'N, 9°22.40'E

Blog reader Kay Rupp, who visited us in Cuxhaven last year, lives nearby and came by to say hello as we passed.

Position: 54°9.26'N, 9°22.46'E

Selfie of Kay Rupp and us taken alongside the Kiel Canal.

Position: 54°2.69'N, 9°18.25'E

We passed the 85ft (148m) vehicle carrier Seine Highway last year in the Kiel Canal last year too.

Position: 54°1.48'N, 9°17.98'E

The 439-ft (134m) container ship Neuenfelde barely clears the 223 ft (68 m) Hochdonn High Bridge.

Position: 53°57.33'N, 9°14.50'E

Jennifer cleaning our windows of all the salt spray we took yesterday while in the head seas.

Position: 53°53.52'N, 9°8.87'E

We made excellent time from Lake Flemhude and were inside the Brunsbuttel lock six hours after departing Lake Flemhude.

Position: 53°53.52'N, 9°8.87'E

All alone in the smaller of the two Brunsbuttel Locks.

Position: 53°53.53'N, 9°8.87'E

Exiting the Kiel Canal at Brunsbuttel.

Position: 53°53.51'N, 9°8.85'E

Pilot boat Steinburg moored just outside the Kiel Canal at Brunsbuttel.

Position: 53°53.37'N, 9°8.63'E

Looking back to the lock control tower for the Brunsbuttel locks. The cranes in the background are working on a new lock currently under construction.

Position: 53°52.58'N, 9°4.87'E

We entered the river Elbe at the top of the ebb against a 2-3knot current. Not ideal, but eventually the tide will change and we'll be in positive current.

Position: 53°52.51'N, 9°4.54'E

A massive dredging project was underway along the north shore of river Elbe with seemingly miles of pipe snaking away from the dredger visible in the distance.

Position: 53°52.39'N, 9°4.07'E

Tractor tug Wulf 4 supporting the dredging operation along the river Elbe.

Position: 53°51.29'N, 8°57.77'E

The 282ft (86m) German Coast Guard ship Bamberg standing watch along the river Elbe. Equipped with 2 Wartsila type 12V26F diesel engines, the ship can do 21 knots.

Position: 53°51.07'N, 8°56.51'E

The local vessel traffic service keeps a close eye on the ships in the area. They called us to inquire about our destination and to remind us not to enter the area where the dredging operations were taking place.

Position: 53°50.64'N, 8°49.97'E

The fishing vessel GRE 19 working the shallows north of the Elbe shipping lanes.

Position: 53°58.35'N, 8°32.13'E

We got our positive current and are now doing 11.5 knots when we normally would only making nine knots at that RPM. We're running much harder than usual to arrive into Heligoland as early as possible. We're not as concerned with the fuel burn as normal, since we'll be picking up a load of fuel there.

Position: 53°59.66'N, 8°24.84'E

The 177ft (54m) Halunder Jet returning to Cuxhaven from its daily run to Heligoland. The vessel has a top speed of 35 knots.

Position: 54°9.95'N, 7°54.69'E

The lights of Heligoland visible in the distance as we approach. The white glow in the the sky is our forward spotlight.

Position: 54°10.58'N, 7°53.78'E

Moored at Sudhafen in Heligoland, with the bright Heligoland Light visible on the hill in the distance off our bow. We could see it for miles as we approached.

Position: 54°10.58'N, 7°53.78'E

A relaxing late dinner in the cockpit after a 97nm, 12.3-hour run from Lake Flemhude just inside the Kiel Canal. This is our third trip to Heligoland, but the first that we'll stop and explore for a few days. We're looking forward to it.

Position: 54°10.39'N, 7°53.49'E

Military helicopters frequented Heligoland during our stay there.

Position: 54°10.39'N, 7°53.49'E

At Bunkerstation Heligoland to take on a load of duty-free diesel. As a German territory, Heligoland is part of the EU, but is not part of the EU Customs Union or VAT area.

This is only the third time we've fueled this year, having covered 3,190 miles, and the first two fuelings were less than half a tank. The first fueling was in March, also at Heligoland, and the second was at Savonlinna in Finland's Saimaa Lakes.

Position: 54°10.39'N, 7°53.49'E

Taking on 1267 gallons (4796 L) of diesel at Bunkerstation Heligoland.

Position: 54°10.39'N, 7°53.49'E

While we were fueling, the port dropped two huge Yokohama fenders into the water. When you need a forklift to move a fender, you know you've got the right size.

Position: 54°10.39'N, 7°53.49'E

The Yokohama fenders were for the ship Funny Girl that moored behind us and disgorged a large group of passengers.

Position: 54°10.39'N, 7°53.49'E

The 31-knot catamaran Adler Cat arriving into Heligoland shortly after Funny Girl.

Position: 54°10.39'N, 7°53.49'E

A few minutes after the Adler Cat arrived, the Halunder Jet entered the harbour.

Position: 54°10.39'N, 7°53.49'E

The harbour was starting to get crowded when the Helgoland arrived from Cuxhaven. The arriving ships all make day trips to Heligoland from the German mainland, dropping off their passengers for three hours of sight-seeing and duty-free shopping.

Position: 54°10.58'N, 7°53.78'E

The German SAR vessel Anneliese Kramer moored behind us at Sudhafen.

Position: 54°10.58'N, 7°53.78'E

Stefan Brockmann, who was visiting Heligoland, noticed us coming in on AIS last night and sent is this photo he took of us back at Sudhafen after fueling.

Position: 54°10.57'N, 7°53.78'E

The SAR boat Anneliese Kramer departed, and was replaced by the imposing Hermann Marwede, based at Heligoland. The 150-ft (46m) vessel can reach 32 knots and is considered the largest SAR ship in the world.

Position: 54°10.60'N, 7°53.49'E

While walking out to dinner, we watched several crew boats arrive and tie off. They are bringing workers back for the night from the nearby offshore wind farms.

Position: 54°10.74'N, 7°53.29'E

Pastel-coloured fisher's huts facing the harbour along Hafenstrasse in Heligoland.

Position: 54°10.79'N, 7°53.32'E

The dredger Henriette at work in Binnenhafen. This is the harbour, now temporarily closed, where we picked up a load of gasoline en route to Norway last year.

Position: 54°10.90'N, 7°53.34'E

A great pizza and a fun time at Pizza and Pasta Bruns. We were expecting Heligoland to be mostly shut down for the season this late in the year. But the place was hopping, with all the restaurants packed. Partly this is due to a holiday week in Germany, but also because Heligoland is a popular destination year-round.

Position: 54°10.71'N, 7°53.28'E

The three dredgers working in Binnenhafen moored up for the night.

Position: 54°10.63'N, 7°53.57'E

During our dinner, several crew members from the offshore wind farms came in for a meal. But on at least one boat the crew were cooking on board.

Position: 54°10.91'N, 7°53.32'E

A great lunch on the terrace at Bruns Bistro. We arrived shortly after noon and had our choice of tables. By the time we left, every table was taken.

Position: 54°11.07'N, 7°53.38'E

Docks just removed for the winter at Nordosthafen. The area is reserved for local boats and visiting yachts are not allowed to enter.

Position: 54°11.20'N, 7°53.25'E

We noticed this group of people seemingly captivated with a large Yokohama fender ashore. It turned out they were studying some birds nearby, or at least we hope so :). The island is on a major migration route for birds crossing the North Sea and is very popular for birdwatching—we saw many birders equipped with large-lens cameras and monoculars as we toured around.

Position: 54°11.25'N, 7°52.88'E

Walking a beach-side trail made from large sandbags covered with tarp to prevent erosion.

Position: 54°11.25'N, 7°52.82'E

Looking back along the beach on the north end of Heligoland.

Position: 54°11.23'N, 7°52.66'E

Stairs leading from the beach to the top of the cliffs. This is our third trip to Heligoland, but we only stopped briefly for fuel those other two times and never spent the night. We've been really looking forward to seeing more of the island, particularly from the top of the cliffs.

Position: 54°11.27'N, 7°52.33'E

From the top of the cliffs we had a great view to the wind farms that we diverted course around on our way to Norway last year.

Position: 54°11.27'N, 7°52.34'E

The 260ft (79m) German Coast Guard vessel Neuwerk that we saw last year at Cuxhaven underway off Heligoland. The marine pollution control vessel is also used for buoy tender operations, shipping police support tasks, icebreaking, firefighting and emergency towing operations.

Position: 54°11.21'N, 7°52.37'E

The 154ft (47 m) seastack Lange Anna is Heligoland's most famous landmark. We saw Lange Anna from sea on our way to Norway last year. The seawall to the left was built by the Germans when Heligoland was a Navy base. The wall is no longer used and has been left to deteriorate.

Position: 54°11.21'N, 7°52.36'E

Juvenile Northern Gannet on the cliff edge at Heligoland.

Position: 54°11.17'N, 7°52.41'E

At the bottom of the Heligoland cliffs you can see a road leading into a tunnel through the cliff (click image for a larger view). This is part of the old German fortifications.

Position: 54°11.17'N, 7°52.42'E

The seabirds on Heligoland have built there nests from scrap fishing net. This really underlines the massive quantities of discarded fishing net that are floating around out there. We're lucky we haven't caught any in our propellers over the years.

Position: 54°11.18'N, 7°52.50'E

Following World War II, the British used the uninhabited Heligoland as a firing range, in 1947 detonating 6,700 tonnes of explosives. What became known as the "Big Bang" or the "British Bang" was one of the largest single non-nuclear detonations in history. The crates visible are a result of the explosion.

Position: 54°10.84'N, 7°52.91'E

A very large communications tower bristling with antennas.

Position: 54°10.82'N, 7°52.95'E

Heligoland's light house looks so imposing at night from its cliff-top perch, partly because of the height of the cliff and partly due to the lights intensity. But the structure itself isn't that tall.

Position: 54°10.80'N, 7°53.01'E

Looking south across Heligoland from the cliffs. Dirona is just visible moored at the far left in Sudhafen to the left of the Hermann Marwede (click image for a larger view).

Position: 54°10.82'N, 7°53.19'E

The small island of Dune to the east of Heligoland. The two islands were connected until 1720 when a storm destroyed the natural connection.

Position: 54°10.95'N, 7°53.25'E

Heligoland is part of the EU, but is not part of the EU Customs Union or VAT area and much of the island's livelihood derives from duty-free sales. We saw many, many stores selling duty-free alcohol, cigarettes and perfume, among other products.

Position: 54°11.02'N, 7°53.22'E

A large pool complex on the east side of Heligoland.

Position: 54°11.12'N, 7°52.94'E

In contrast to the island's exposed and windswept west side, the east side of Heligoland was lined with sheltered and beautiful cliff-top gardens.

Position: 54°11.09'N, 7°53.18'E

What's left of a propeller after the plane crashed, on display outside the Heligoland museum.

Position: 54°10.65'N, 7°53.20'E

Piles and piles of tetrapods line the south shore of Heligoland.

Position: 54°10.24'N, 7°53.93'E

We finished our tour of Heligoland by walking out to the end of Sudmole. It's a massive seawall, built to withstand the frequent North Sea storms.

Position: 54°10.70'N, 7°53.28'E

We had a delicious meal last night at Bunte Kuh, but forgot to take a picture. We passed by while out walking today—the outdoor tables were quickly filling in the sunny weather.

Position: 54°10.65'N, 7°53.36'E

A warehouse full of duty-free goods.

Position: 54°10.84'N, 7°53.44'E

The nearby island of Dune is a popular excursion—this frequent ferry run is often packed.

Position: 54°10.78'N, 7°53.58'E

View north to the town on Heligoland from the Dune ferry dock. The white top of the Heligoland lighthouse is visible just to the right of the communications tower at the left of the photo.

Position: 54°10.92'N, 7°53.36'E

We escaped a brief downpour with a drink at Dune South. It's really dark outside for 3pm with the storm.

Position: 54°10.60'N, 7°53.72'E

Pleasure craft have been arriving and departing each day that we've been at Heligoland, but now more are arriving than departing and they're starting to raft up. We'd really like to avoid that for a number of reasons: the risk of taking damage is high, we lose privacy and flexibility in leaving, and we'd rather not have people climbing on the boat.

Position: 54°10.58'N, 7°53.78'E

Stefan Brockmann, who was visiting Heligoland from mainland Germany, noticed us coming in on AIS the other night and sent us an email welcoming us to the island along with some great recommendations on excursions and restaurants here.

Position: 54°10.58'N, 7°53.78'E

A major storm system is passing through, bringing gusts above 40 knots. In the large port basin, Dirona is moving around a bit in the wind and waves, and the boats in front of us are really tossing. The harbour will be removing the dock we're on for the winter next week and it makes sense now that we see how rough it is in a relatively tame storm for the North Sea.

Position: 54°10.58'N, 7°53.78'E

The Halunder Jet catamaran departed the commercial docks, then idled in the harbour for a bit and tied off directly behind us. All the passengers got off and taxis and luggage carts started shuttling to and from the boat. We later learned it had taken some damage while leaving the dock and elected not to leave port.

Position: 54°10.58'N, 7°53.78'E

The Helogland was 45 minutes out en-route to Cuxhaven when it was recalled to pickup the displaced passengers from the Halunder Jet.

Position: 54°10.56'N, 7°53.83'E

View to Sudhafen shortly before we walk up for dinner in town. The winds are starting the settle down a bit now, but the harbour still is a little rough.

Position: 54°10.58'N, 7°53.79'E

We checked out the Halunder Jet on our way to dinner. Broken windows covered in cardboard are visible on the other side of the vessel.

Position: 54°10.96'N, 7°53.16'E

An excellent meal at Atlantis in the upper town of Heligoland. Jennifer is having their specialty, Heligoland lobster. It's a real locals place—the staff seemed to know all the customers.

Position: 54°10.66'N, 7°53.56'E

Crane lifting a boat out of the water after removing all the docks attached to the visible pilings. The marina will be shutting down on October 24th for the winter.

Position: 54°10.81'N, 7°53.49'E

On board the ferry Witte Kliff to the small island of Dune. The vessel filled up quickly after we took this picture.

Position: 54°11.11'N, 7°54.27'E

The ferry Witte Kliff departing Dune after dropping off a load of passengers.

Position: 54°11.12'N, 7°54.22'E

Map of Dune showing the Heligoland airport at right. The ferry landing is at the big red X on the left.

Position: 54°11.23'N, 7°54.90'E

A good lunch at Runway 33 in the Heligoland airport on Dune. The airfield was built during World War II when the Heligoland archipelago was a navy base. Due to the short length of the runway and often difficult conditions, any pilots landing here need special training.

Position: 54°11.21'N, 7°54.86'E

One of two ultralight aircrafts parked at Heligoland, this one a Slovakian-made Aerospool WT-9 Dynamic. The plane costs €130,000 new and has a cruise speed of 160 mph (250 kph) with a range of 990 miles (1,600 km).

Position: 54°11.29'N, 7°54.77'E

Appealing-looking bungalows in the sand on Dune.

Position: 54°11.30'N, 7°54.76'E

Dune's small surface is full of great walking trails. The day is a bit cold, with strong winds, so we're more bundled up than usual.

Position: 54°11.40'N, 7°55.18'E

Dune has a large seal population. These are grey seals hauled out on the north shore. The bulls can reach 10 ft (3 m) and weigh over 660 pounds (300 kg).

Position: 54°11.12'N, 7°55.02'E

A baby common seal alone in the sand along the east shore of Dune.

Position: 54°10.99'N, 7°55.05'E

A German coast guard was in position southeast of Dune most of the time were were on Heligoland.

Position: 54°10.89'N, 7°54.68'E

Lighthouse along the south side of Dune. The winds and waves are still pretty active after yesterday's big winds.

Position: 54°11.25'N, 7°54.65'E

Boardwalk through grass-covered dunes on the north shore of Dune.

Position: 54°11.14'N, 7°54.76'E

We see beach chairs throughout Dune and Heligoland, sometimes in seemingly unusual places. This one is inland along a boardwalk.

Position: 54°11.06'N, 7°54.80'E

Tranquil pond in the center of the island of Dune.

Position: 54°11.01'N, 7°54.54'E

These shrubs appear ready to take over the path given a chance.

Position: 54°10.97'N, 7°53.21'E

Enjoying the view to Dune over a beer at Edeka Markt Falmfelsen on the main island.

Position: 54°10.97'N, 7°53.14'E

Heligoland has a warren of World War II bunkers underneath the upper city. Today we took a tour through a portion of them.

Position: 54°10.97'N, 7°53.14'E

Photograph in the Heligoland bunker showing the island in 1930. You can see how smooth the northern end of the island is compared to the craters visible now following the "British Bang" when Britain in 1947 detonated 6,700 tonnes of explosives. The explosion also collapsed the southern top of the island—a large crater is there today where in the photo cliffs ring the southern tip.

Position: 54°10.97'N, 7°53.14'E

Project Hummerschere ("Lobster Claw") was an ambitious project German Navy plan to greatly extend the usable land in Heligoland and create a major North Sea naval base. In the picture, the dark grey areas are the existing land and the light grey is the proposed new land. The project was started in 1937, but never completed.

Position: 54°10.97'N, 7°53.14'E

A photograph in the Heligoland bunker of the submarine pen Nordsee III at Heligoland. The facility, completed in 1941, was 511ft (156m) by 308ft (94 m). It was destroyed by the "British Bang" of 1947, which had the goal of destroying the military facilities on the island.

Position: 54°10.97'N, 7°53.14'E

Photographs in the Heligoland bunker of the "British Bang", also called the "Bing Bang" in April of 1947. The detonation of 6,700 tonnes of explosives was almost half the size of the Hiroshima bomb.

Position: 54°10.64'N, 7°53.58'E

We can view our boat cameras from our cell phone and could see that a boat had just rafted against us, so returned to the dock to let them know we would be leaving at first light the next morning. The harbour is getting crowded now, with boats rafting three-deep.

Position: 54°10.57'N, 7°53.78'E

The boat against us was a large Princess with what appeared to be a professional crew. They'd done a good job of landing, securing their boat and placing their fenders along with our large inflatable fenders to keep the two boats apart in the wind and waves. And they were fine with being up early for us to to depart at first light the next morning.

Position: 54°10.57'N, 7°53.81'E

Last night we took a picture through the boat of the broken windows on the Halunder Jet and today the ship has been turned around for temporary repairs. These repairs patch the hole in the side of the boat and the broken window, and will allow them to return to the mainland for full service.

Position: 54°10.78'N, 7°53.32'E

A final Heligoland meal at Rickmers Seafood with a view to the harbour. Tomorrow morning we depart for the Netherlands. We really enjoyed our time on Heligoland and are glad we finally had a chance to visit.