In the summer of 2002, we traveled to the
Luxvbalis Conservancy Area
(formerly designated as the
Area). Hakai is on
BC's central coast, off Queen Charlotte Sound north of Vancouver Island. It's roughly 400 nautical
miles from Seattle and 200 miles from the Alaska border. Encompassing close
to 123,000 hectares, Hakai is the largest of BC's many marine parks.
Besides a few sports-fishing resorts, there are no facilities for pleasure-craft
or tourists, so you must pretty much bring everything you are going to need with
Our basic travel mode is to run at full cruise until we've gotten to where
we want to start and then to slow down to a more efficient
cruising speed of about 7 knots. It took two days from Seattle to reach Port
Hardy area, at the northeast tip of Vancouver Island, traveling at about 17
For anchoring details and navigation advice on
Sound destinations described here, see
Waggoner sister publication Cruising the Secret Coast.
Gremlin, our cat, accompanies us on all our trips.
He spends most of his time as pictured, in what we call the "Cruising
Position" - passed out in the aft stateroom. As soon as the engines start,
that's his cue. He seems to really enjoy the boat though. Most of the time
he stays inside, but every night does a full exterior inspection, from flybridge to bow to cockpit, before he goes to sleep.
When traveling up the inside passage, we
commonly see very large cruise ships. These really catch your attention
because they are so huge compared to everything around them, and move
quickly. The Celebrity Cruises 965' Summit is no exception at
roughly 25 times the length of Dirona.
This is a small black bear digging for food on
the southern shore of Johnstone Strait. We were planning to anchor
here on the second night, but couldn't get the anchor to set well enough, so
continued on to Helmcken Island.
This is the view looking south down Johnstone
Strait on the morning of our third day out. We like to get an early start
most days, and among the rewards are beautiful, calm mornings like this one.
We came upon the
Lady Washington at
anchor in the Broughton Archipelago. A replica of a 18th-century merchant brig, it is one of
the tall ships that participates in the various exhibitions that have been
held recently. When this picture was taken, it was under private charter.
That has got to be one of the biggest American flags we've ever seen on a
ship - notice the thirteen stars corresponding to the number of states at
Day 1: Penrose Island
Day 2: Fish Trap
Bay, Fish Egg Inlet
Day 3: Kwakshua
Channel, Calvert Island
Day 4: Adams Harbour -
Day 5: Serpent
Group Cove, Kildidt Sound
Hurricane Inlet, Hurricane Island
Day 7: Hart Group
Cove, Kildidt Inlet
Day 8: Lane Rock Cove, Cultus
Day 9: Sans Peur Cove, San Peur
Abandoned Cove, McNaughton Group
Gunboat Lagoon Cove, Gunboat Passage
Day 12: Ocean Falls
Cathedral Point Cove, Burke Channel
Day 14: Fly Basin, Smith
Day 15: Murray Labyrinth