MV Dirona travel digest for Northwest Coast Ireland 2017

Position: 54°39.82'N, -8°48.68'W

The Napoleanic signal tower at Malin Beg Head as we depart Teelin for Arranmore Island.

Position: 54°40.02'N, -8°48.68'W

The Commissioners of Irish Lights have used the light at Rathlin O'Birne as a test-bed for new and experimental power sources and installed six different methods since 1900. The most unusual was an isotope powered thermo-electric generator known as RIPPLE X (Radio Isotope Powered Prolonged Life Equipment-Mark Ten). Irish Light's only nuclear-powered light operated from 1974 until 1987, when the generator output was longer sufficient to power the light and it was replaced by short-lived wind power and eventually solar panels in 1993.

Position: 54°58.61'N, -8°34.58'W

Craggy, steep cliffs behind a spire at Black Rock Point at the southwest corner of Arranmore Island.

Position: 54°58.76'N, -8°34.70'W

Sea arch through Illanaran Island off Arranmore Island.

Position: 55°0.57'N, -8°34.07'W

The old Coast Guard station at the northwest corner of Arranmore Island. As were many in Ireland, the station was burned and abandoned during the Irish War of Independence, fought between 1919 and 1921.

Position: 55°0.81'N, -8°34.23'W

A light was first lit in 1798 at Rinrawros Point on the northwest corner of Arranmore Island. The current structure was built in 1859.

Position: 55°1.24'N, -8°33.74'W

This landing craft was almost disappearing in the big swell off the north end of Arranmore Island.

Position: 55°1.56'N, -8°31.97'W

Looking southwest from Torneady Point to the lighthouse on Rinrawros Point.

Position: 54°59.96'N, -8°29.05'W

Marker beacon guiding us into the anchorage at Aran Road.

Position: 54°59.51'N, -8°29.56'W

Looking north to Owey Island from the anchorage at Aran Road.

Position: 54°59.50'N, -8°29.58'W

A battery on-off switch for the tender is a good idea for safety reasons and to prevent loads from drawing down the battery unexpectedly. We routinely turn off the battery switch when not using the tender. Several loads on our tender are directly connected to the battery, however, rendering the off-on switch ineffective. We've had situations when the bilge pump sticks on and by the time we're back to the tender, the battery is flat. We carry a spare battery in the tender for this reason.

Today we replaced the start battery and moved all electrical loads to the battery switch to eliminate possible current leaks. This also protects the start battery should the bilge pump get stuck on. The downside to this approach is the bilge pump will not run when the battery switch is off.

Position: 54°59.51'N, -8°29.56'W

Our backup battery for the tender couldn't start the motor, so James is investigating why. The battery tester indicated it was at 70% charge, so that wasn't the problem.

Position: 54°59.51'N, -8°29.56'W

Further testing found the battery cables at 3M ohms. The problem was the alligator clamps. which had rusted. After changing them for new ones, testing yielded a fraction of an ohm and it all works now

Position: 54°59.50'N, -8°29.57'W

The seat back on our AB VST 12 tender is loose because the wood is rotting. It is difficult to change because it is inside the seat upholstery, so we put four more screws in different locations to hold it more securely. This worked well, but eventually will stop working. The tender is 8 years old and goal is for it to last 10 years. Likely it will be a struggle to get it there—it's lived a pretty tough life.

Position: 54°59.50'N, -8°29.58'W

We keep an emergency kit in the tender inside a waterproof case that includes flares, flashlights, a GPS, a depth-sounder, a personal EPIRB and a horn. Today we serviced the kit, replacing all batteries and testing all equipment.

Position: 54°59.53'N, -8°29.54'W

At anchor on Aron Roads with Arranmore Island behind us.

Position: 54°59.39'N, -8°29.76'W

Tying the tender off to the pier at Leabgarrow on Arranmore Island.

Position: 54°59.38'N, -8°29.82'W

A stone at the foot of the dock welcomes visitors Oilean Arainn Mhoir. Oilean is Irish for Island, and Arainn Mhoir is typically translated to Arranmore. But the official name of the island is not clear. The Ordnance Survey and the charts label the island as Aran, locals refer to it as Arranmore and the County Council spell it Aranmore.

Position: 54°59.37'N, -8°29.82'W

Another "Wild Atlantic Way" sign, part of a successful marketing campaign to promote tourism along Ireland's West Coast.

Position: 54°59.23'N, -8°29.82'W

A traditional English country garden on Arranmore Island.

Position: 54°59.39'N, -8°30.00'W

We had a good dinner overlooking the lawn and the bay at the Glen Hotel.

Position: 54°59.50'N, -8°29.60'W

Two different companies operate ferries to Arranmore Island from Burtonport on the mainland. We were surprised that there was enough business to support that. Here the two ferries are passing in the narrow channel to the pier on Arranmore.

Position: 54°59.50'N, -8°29.61'W

We had some of the storage space opened up under the pilot house stairs to investigate routing for a wire run. Spitfire, as usual, immediately crawled inside to check it out.

Position: 54°59.33'N, -8°29.86'W

We had an excellent wood-fired pizza for dinner at Early's Bar.

Position: 54°59.51'N, -8°29.58'W

Beautiful sunrise from the anchorage at Arranmore Island.

Position: 54°59.40'N, -8°29.79'W

With sunny weather forecast, we ran the bikes ashore in the tender for a tour of Arranmore Island.

Position: 54°59.60'N, -8°30.12'W

The view to the anchorage at Aran Road. Dirona is the rightmost boat in the picture, just right of center. The road up from the pier was very steep and we barely made it without stopping to walk the bikes. But the view was worth it.

Position: 54°59.60'N, -8°30.12'W

The Leabgarrow RNLI lifeboat moored on a buoy.

Position: 55°0.18'N, -8°31.00'W

Looking across Bellachreesh Bay to Owey Island. We believe that is Errigal Mountain visible in the distance on the right.

Position: 55°0.12'N, -8°32.05'W

In 1851, Charlie O'Donnell and his family emigrated to Beaver Island, Michigan after being evicted from their Arranmore home during the potato famine. Many more families from Arranmore followed. The two islands have been closely linked ever since and were twinned in 2000. This memorial commemorates the connection, with a beaver statue representing Beaver Island, an otter representing Arranmore and a fish in the middle representing the connection between the two islands.

Position: 55°0.25'N, -8°32.48'W

All over the island we saw old and new trenches dug into the peat, and bags of peat near some of the newer trenches. We speculated that it was exported for gardening, but later in the day learned the real purpose.

Position: 55°0.46'N, -8°33.04'W

On October 31st in 1982, Wayne Dickinson left Boston for Ireland in his tiny 8' 11" boat God's Tear. After 142 days at sea, a Force 10 (48–55 knots) storm drove him ashore at the cliffs beyond where Jennifer is standing. He managed to get ashore and reach the lighthouse where he was later rescued, but his boat was lost. At the time, God's Tear was the smallest craft to ever cross the Atlantic.

Position: 55°0.78'N, -8°33.57'W

At Rinrawros Point we had a picnic lunch with an awesome view along the west coast of Arranmore Island.

Position: 55°0.86'N, -8°33.47'W

Looking down to the lighthouse at Rinrawros Point that we'd passed on our way to the anchorage at Arranmore Island.

Position: 55°0.86'N, -8°33.47'W

A great view to the cliffs and spires along the north shore of Arranmore Island.

Position: 55°0.86'N, -8°33.47'W

A survey plane flew low over the island as we were taking in the views.

Position: 55°0.84'N, -8°33.47'W

We noticed this wire sticking out of the ground as we returned back to our bikes. We're a good quarter-mile from the closest building, and couldn't guess what it might be for.

Position: 55°0.76'N, -8°33.52'W

The old Coast Guard station near the lighthouse was burned and abandoned during the Irish War of Independence, fought between 1919 and 1921.

Position: 55°0.80'N, -8°33.57'W

Several picnic areas on the island are built in the shape of a ring fort.

Position: 54°59.45'N, -8°31.81'W

Great views across Aran Sound from 226m Cnoc an Iolair, which means "Hill of the Eagle" in Irish. This is the 2nd highest hill on the island. The official highest is point is 227m Croc na Naomh (Hill of the Saints) nearby to the southwest.

Position: 54°59.58'N, -8°32.63'W

We stopped and spoke to two people who were harvesting peat and learned that they weren't exporting it as we'd surmised, but were gathering it to burn as fuel in the winter. The peat is first dug out by hand, then stacked to dry, and eventually bagged for transport home.

Position: 54°59.20'N, -8°33.09'W

Looking down to Illanaran Island on the southwest corner or Arranmore.

Position: 54°58.97'N, -8°33.02'W

Colorfully-dyed sheep are all over the island. The colors identify the owner.

Position: 54°58.73'N, -8°32.96'W

The view across the South Sound of Aran as we turn the corner and head along the south shore of Arranmore.

Position: 54°58.46'N, -8°30.89'W

We were hoping to stop in for a pint on the deck at Killeens pub overlooking Rossillion Bay, but it wasn't open. Possibly it was just too early in the day, but a "For Sale" sign suggests it might no longer be in business. Too bad if it's closed permanently—it's such a great location.

Position: 54°59.17'N, -8°29.76'W

Several sailing skiffs had just been launched of the beach as we arrived back into Leagbarrow.

Position: 54°59.22'N, -8°29.83'W

Bulmer's Cider with a window seat overlooking the beach at Phil Ban's pub.

Position: 54°58.98'N, -8°26.51'W

We dropped the bikes off at Dirona then ran the tender along the ferry route to Burtonport on the mainland. The run was quite scenic, through a narrow and winding but very well-marked channel.

Position: 54°58.98'N, -8°26.52'W

The blue ferry was in port as we arrived, and shortly was replaced by the red ferry. The ferries get on and off the dock efficiently. They open their hydraulic gate well before they arrive and it's almost all the way lowered by the time the reach the pier.

Position: 54°59.10'N, -8°26.14'W

The ruins in Burtonport of another coast guard station destroyed during the Irish War of Independence.

Position: 54°59.04'N, -8°26.40'W

"Where are we going for dinner?" asked James. "The Lobster Pot", Jennifer replied. "Where's that?". "It's the one right there with the giant lobster on the side". "Right."

Position: 54°59.03'N, -8°26.41'W

The bartender at the Lobster Pot drew a perfect shamrock in the top of Jennifer's Guinness.

Position: 54°59.03'N, -8°26.41'W

We had an excellent seafood meal at the Lobster Pot, surrounded by sports memorabilia. It's not often you get a great meal at a restaurant with a giant plastic lobster on the side, but this was delicious.

Position: 54°59.54'N, -8°29.58'W

This sailboat arrived last night, moored briefly at the ferry pier and then came out to anchor. This morning two gents were swimming off the side. The water is warmer than we'd expect at 64F (17C), likely due to the Gulf Stream, but it has to get a lot warmer than that before we'd be tempted to swim.

Position: 54°59.54'N, -8°29.56'W

A fish boat offloading their catch at the old pier just off the anchorage.

Position: 54°59.54'N, -8°29.56'W

When we got the new micro tender, we kept the old one and stowed it under the dinghy on top of our fender boards. We've been finding the deck difficult to clean with them there, so transferred both the micro-tender and the fender boards into the anchor locker and strapped the micro-tender into a shelf.

Position: 54°59.54'N, -8°29.56'W

Fender boards hang horizontally between two or more pilings and the fenders on the boat, allowing the boat to shift position fore-and-aft with the fenders falling between the pilings. Fender boards also can protect the fenders when moored against an abrasive cement wall. Most people build fender boards from wood, but we went with schedule 80 PVC which doesn't rot or splinter and has better strength-to-weight ratio. We'd been keeping them under the dinghy but found a great spot for them strapped them to the side of the anchor locker. The area under the dinghy is now clear and much easier to keep clean.

Position: 54°59.35'N, -8°29.90'W

Another great meal at Early's Bar, this time their popular fish and chips. The pub was almost completely full at 5:30, which seemed quite early, particularly for Ireland. But tourists want to have dinner before taking the final ferry back to the mainland at 7:30pm. Once that ferry left, the pub quickly emptied of tourists and transformed into a locals bar.

Leftmost in the picture, with his head down and writing, is the owner Jerry Early. We'd met Jerry earlier today when he'd stopped by to say hello while coming ashore from his fishing boat. On Jerry's right are an American father-and-son who descend from Arranmore and were in town to visit relatives and see their ancestral home. In the red sweater is Andrew Early, Jerry's father, who purchased the bar in 1966 and ran it until 1990. And rightmost in the photo is local Adrian Begley, who'd noticed the Nordhavn anchored out in the harbour and sent us email to say hello and welcome us to the island.

We had a wonderful evening and ended up staying way too late. People often talk of going to the South Pacific to "see the natives in their natural environment." For us, this the kind of "natives in their natural environment" that we enjoy the most. We had an incredible time, and there was always a full Guinness in front of us.

Position: 55°15.93'N, -8°11.32'W

We weren't planning a pass around Tory Island, but a distant view of the island's dramatic seascape drew us in. The is looking south along from the northeast corner of the island.

Position: 55°16.03'N, -8°11.69'W

The view south along 262ft (80m) Tor Mor on the northeast tip of Tory Island. The spires visible over the cliff in the previous picture are slightly left of center in the background.

Position: 55°16.05'N, -8°12.50'W

153ft (53m) Tory Peak at the left of the photo, with stacks, spires and caves along the north side of Tory Island. The scenery here is spectacular—we were very glad we made the detour.

Position: 55°16.73'N, -8°15.02'W

The lighthouse on the northwest tip of Tory Island was established in 1832 and automated in 1990. The tower was originally all-black and a white band added in 1956.

Position: 55°16.35'N, -8°15.47'W

Despite today's calm conditions, waves were crashing into the rocks off the Tory Island lighthouse. Conditions must get pretty rough here when a storm comes up.

Position: 55°15.38'N, -8°13.82'W

West Town serves most of Tory Island's 200 residents and is where the mainland ferry lands. The circular tower on the left was built in the 6th or 7th century.

Position: 55°17.21'N, -7°40.92'W

While we are in Lough Swilly, we'll be visiting Northern Island in the United Kingdom, so we got out our British Pounds leftover from our visit to St. Helena in the southern Atlantic.

Position: 55°17.20'N, -7°37.78'W

The lighthouse on Fanad Head was first lit in 1817 and could be seen for fourteen miles in clear weather. It was automated in 1983.

Position: 55°11.30'N, -7°33.50'W

Partway into Lough Swilly, the Dunree Head was established in 1876. The light is 46m above the cliff and mounted in front of the keeper's building at ground level to keep it below the fog.

Position: 55°5.27'N, -7°28.76'W

Moored for a few days at Lough Swilly Marina. We were expecting that crossing the Fahan Bar north of the marina would be the shallowest part of the approach, but saw no less than 8ft on a 2m rising tide. The marina entry channel was much more difficult. Despite assurances from the marina staff that we would be "fine" with our 2.1m draft so long as we didn't enter at dead-low tide, we touched bottom numerous times on entry. We will need at least 3m tide to leave safely.

Position: 55°5.29'N, -7°28.56'W

We had an excellent meal at the Railway Tavern and Firebox Grill in the marina complex. We were expecting just a casual pub, but the Firebox Grill was much nicer and very popular.

Position: 55°5.26'N, -7°28.80'W

Our Glendinning power cord retractor spontaneously started to reel in the cord and actually pulled the boat aftward up towards the dock, only releasing when the circuit breaker tripped. The switch circuit appears to have spontaneously closed, triggering the motor. Because it is intermittent and only triggers rarely, we disconnected both the remote control and the switch. We're not positive it's a switch problem and don't have a spare to try. To keep things working, we installed a generic wireless remote to drive the cord retractor and disconnected the existing remote and switch. Having seen the power of the retractor, we'll keep the circuit breaker off when not in use. It's fully operational and we've ordered a new switch assembly to restore non-remote operation as well.

Position: 55°5.30'N, -7°28.56'W

We had another great meal at the Railway Tavern and Firebox Grill, but this time in the tavern section. Although we were sitting about three feet from where we were last night in the Firebox Grill, the Railway Tavern felt like a completely different restaurant, with more of a casual pub feel.

Position: 55°5.26'N, -7°28.80'W

Cecilia finding bottom on entering the Lough Swilly Marina with about 1m of tide. Besides being shallow, the entrance is narrow and has a couple of sharp turns, making entering that much more "interesting".

Position: 55°13.99'N, -6°31.06'W

One of the reasons we're at Loch Swilly Marina is to do a tour of the Causeway Coast in Northern Ireland. For a reasonable price, Derry Blue Badge Guide picked us up at the marina and drove us across the border into the UK for the day. This is the view looking west from our first stop of the day at the Giant's Causeway. Crossing the border was a real non-event. Our driver at one point said "We've just crossed the border" and we were in Northern Ireland without even a hint of a border crossing.

Position: 55°13.99'N, -6°31.07'W

The striking Giant's Causeway visitor center opened in 2012 and includes 186 basalt columns modelled after the site's hexagonal basalt stones.

Position: 55°13.99'N, -6°31.01'W

Excellent displays in the visitor center model the causeway and describes its geology and formation through volcanic activity some 50 million years ago.

Position: 55°14.46'N, -6°30.69'W

Jennifer climbing the basalt stones that make the Giant's Causeway famous. Led Zeppelin fans might recognize this scene from the cover art of Houses of the Holy. Giant's Causeway was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1986. The site consists of over 40,000 hexagonal basalt stones that lead from a cliff foot into the sea. The dramatic site inspired legends of giants building the causeway to reach Scotland across the sea.

Position: 55°14.40'N, -6°30.63'W

Basalt columns farther inland that have not been eroded by the sea.

Position: 55°14.55'N, -6°30.24'W

Trails lead along the sea and the cliff tops for excellent views. This is looking back toward the Giant's Causeway from partway up a trail to the Port Reostan.

Position: 55°14.45'N, -6°30.25'W

These basalt columns are known as "The Organ".

Position: 55°14.64'N, -6°30.27'W

Looking to the formations known as the Chimney Tops from the lookout at Port Reostan. The area to the right is known as the Amphitheatre.

Position: 55°14.64'N, -6°30.23'W

Partway back along the trail to Port Reostan, we took the steep Shepard's Steps up to the Cliff Path for sweeping views of the area.

Position: 55°14.63'N, -6°30.23'W

Looking down into the Amphitheatre from the Cliff Path. The Port Reostan lookout we were at earlier is the circular path at the bottom of the photo.

Position: 55°14.22'N, -6°30.80'W

We'd arrived relatively early on a weekday morning with plenty of parking. By the time we left two hours later, even the third overflow parking lot was filled and cars were parked a long way down the road. Apparently it gets a lot busier later in the day and on weekends. Hard to imagine.

Position: 55°14.32'N, -6°19.95'W

Our next stop on the tour was the Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge strung across a 60ft chasm between the mainland and the island of Carrick-a-Rede. Fisherman erected the bridge so they could check on their salmon nets.

Position: 55°14.32'N, -6°19.95'W

Salmon fishermen set their nets from Carrick-a-Rede by boat, with one end attached to shore and the rest laid out in an arc to trap approaching salmon.

Position: 55°14.39'N, -6°19.92'W

Jennifer crossing the bridge.

Position: 55°14.34'N, -6°20.04'W

Mainland cliffs visible from Carrick-a-Rede Island. We're not out of cliff country yet. The water here is a suprisingly clear and unusually turquiose in color.

Position: 55°14.44'N, -6°19.86'W

Looking west across wave-swept Carrick-a-Rede Island to Sheep Island in the distance.

Position: 55°14.43'N, -6°19.86'W

This cute seagull chick was hiding in the grass at Carrick-a-Rede Island.

Position: 55°14.38'N, -6°19.92'W

Razorbills tucked along the cliff wall at Carrick-a-Rede Island.

Position: 55°14.17'N, -6°21.46'W

We stopped for a good lunch, and a Guinness, at The Fullerton Arms pub in Ballintoy.

Position: 55°14.18'N, -6°21.46'W

Ballintoy was one of the Northern Ireland filming locations for the HBO series Game of Thrones. Ten doors representing an episode in Season 6 have been placed in pubs throughout near filming locations throughout Northern Ireland and the Fullerton Arms has Door Number 6. Throughout our lunch, a constant stream of visitors came in to take a picture of the door and sit in the throne.

Position: 55°14.24'N, -6°26.91'W

Dunseverick Castle dates to at least the 5th century AD, when St. Patrick is said to have visited. The castle stood until the mid 1600s, when Oliver Cromwell's troops captured and destroyed it.

Position: 55°14.24'N, -6°26.91'W

Our driver Neil McLaughlin of Derry Blue Badge Guide. We had a great day touring around with Neil and learned much about the history of Kerry and Northern Ireland in general.

Position: 55°12.79'N, -6°34.47'W

Dunluce Castle is a dramatic fortress perched on a cliff above the sea. A castle was first built here in the 13th century, and was expanded and modified over the years as it passed through different owners. The castle was the seat of the MacDonnell family in the 16th and 17th centuries, who abandoned it following their impoverishment in 1690 after the Battle of the Boyne.

Position: 55°12.69'N, -6°34.76'W

Although the castle has been abandoned for centuries, a surprising amount still stands. This is the outer wall of a Renaissance-style manor house that the MacDonnells built within the castle walls.

Position: 55°12.69'N, -6°34.76'W

Sea arch visible from Dunluce Castle.

Position: 55°12.67'N, -6°34.75'W

The only way to approach Dunluce Castle by water is under the castle through Mermaid's Cave in a small boat at high tide.

Position: 55°1.44'N, -7°25.67'W

Our final stop for the day was Grianan of Aileach, a restored ring fort high above Lough Swilly.

Position: 55°1.44'N, -7°25.67'W

Grianan of Aileach has a sweeping 360° view of the area. At the far right of the photo is the entrance to Lough Swilly from the Atlantic. The Lough Swilly Marina is closer in the right, just beyond a causeway connecting large Inch Island with the mainland. To the left of Inch Island, Lough Swilly continues to its head at the town of Letterkenny.

Position: 55°1.44'N, -7°25.66'W

A close-up to the Lough Swilly Marina from Grianan of Aileach. Dirona is visible to the right of center.

Position: 55°1.43'N, -7°25.67'W

We had a great tour of the Causeway Coast with Neil, who also suggested we visit Grianan of Aileach. We didn't know about it and otherwise would have missed those amazing views. Several people at the marina that evening asked where we'd been and were especially pleased that we'd been to the fort.

Position: 55°5.26'N, -7°28.77'W

A beautiful calm morning at Loch Swilly Marina. We've moved from our original berth to a temporary spot near the walkway to take on fuel.

Position: 55°5.26'N, -7°28.77'W

We weren't low on fuel, but wanted to take advantage of the good prices in Ireland and top up since our last fill in Kinsale.

Position: 55°5.13'N, -7°28.85'W

Looking back to the marina entrance as we leave. With the fueling we ended up cutting it a little closer than we wanted to on the tide, but still managed to escape without touching bottom.

Position: 55°7.03'N, -7°29.29'W

The fishing vessel Celtic Explorer entering Loch Swilly just after we crossed the Fahan Bar.

Position: 55°16.83'N, -7°32.30'W

Cliffs at Dunaff Head as we exit Lough Swilly.

Position: 55°22.47'N, -7°24.67'W

Rounding Malin Head, the most northerly point in mainland Ireland. A Napoleanic Signal Tower is visible between the peaks.

Position: 55°23.56'N, -7°16.02'W

The light on Inishtrahull Island is the most northern one in Ireland. Along with the light on Tory Island it forms one of the two main landfall lights for shipping from the Atlantic rounding the north coast of Ireland. A light on the east end of Inishtrahull Island was first installed in 1812, mainly because the British Navy was using Lough Foyle to the south. In 1952, the Commissioners of Irish Lights decided to modernize the light and replaced it by a new one on the west end of the island. The old one was demolished when it was found to obscure the new light.

Position: 55°23.16'N, -7°12.31'W

The forward enging room fluorescent light wouldn't turn on. Changing bulbs didn't help, so we changed the ballast and we'll order a new spare ballast.

Position: 55°20.29'N, -6°45.96'W

Taking down our Irish Tri-Color courtesy flag as we cross the border between the Republic of Ireland and the United Kingdom.

Position: 55°20.24'N, -6°45.62'W

Raising a quarantine flag and the UK Red Ensign as we enter Northern Ireland. Most countries use their national flag as a courtesy flag, but in the UK the national maritime flag, the Red Ensign, is used both as a courtesy flag and the ensign for UK-registered pleasure craft.

Position: 55°17.60'N, -6°19.14'W

The lighthouse on the west end of Rathlin Island in Northern Ireland is called the "Upside-Down Lighthouse" because the light is below the tower to keep it below the fog line. The light is further unusual in that it is red, rather than white. The whole facility took over five years to build between 1910 and 1916. Little flat land was available and the cliffs were heavily reinforced with concrete to prevent rockfalls and eroson.

A diaphone compressed-air fog signal was established in 1925 that could be heard 20 miles away and was so loud it was known as the 'Rathlin Bull' and was once described as 'a loud, droning sound, like a bull in agony'. The lighthouse was destaffed in 1983 and the foghorn was replaced by an electric version in 1982 and discontinued in 1995.

The building at the top of the cliff is the West Light Seabird Centre. Rathlin Island is home to one of the largest seabird colonies in the UK.

Position: 55°17.45'N, -6°17.42'W

Spectacular seascape at Bull Point on the southwest tip of Rathlin Island, with the lighthouse just visible to the right of center.

Position: 55°17.37'N, -6°16.69'W

Cliffs and caves along the south shore of Rathlin Island, just east of Bull Point.

Position: 55°17.34'N, -6°16.20'W

The old inclined railway and jetty built to land materials for the Rathlin West lighthouse.

Position: 55°17.48'N, -6°12.41'W

We quickly cleared into the UK by phone after landing at Rathlin Island and lowered our yellow quarantine flag. Even though we're travelling within the EU between the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland, the UK requires pleasure craft operators to clear through for certain situations such as non-EU citizens on board.

Position: 55°17.48'N, -6°12.42'W

The anchorage at Rathlin Island is exposed to the south and west and even in these calm conditions a swell rolls through. The 'flopper-stopper is a big help in reducing boat motion. The water is surprisingly clear here—the flopper-stopper plate is visible fifteen feet through the water.

Position: 55°17.50'N, -6°12.41'W

Filling up the tender from one of the 29-gallon fuel tanks we keep on the boat deck.

Position: 55°17.47'N, -6°12.24'W

Dirona at anchor off the white cliffs of Rathlin Island. You'd not want to be here in rough weather, but with calm conditions this is a lovely anchorage.

Position: 55°17.67'N, -6°12.41'W

We landed the bikes ashore in the tender and set off on a bicycle tour of Rathlin Island. After a steep climb, the reward is this view from Knockans Viewpoint to the harbor where we moored the tender.

Position: 55°17.67'N, -6°12.41'W

We've left the Wild Atlantic Way and now are on the Causeway Coastal Route. This interpretive sign at Knockans Viewpoint shows many mainland features on that route. Dirona is visible at anchor beyond the sign.

Position: 55°17.70'N, -6°16.23'W

Biking through a herd of cows spread out across the road. The only reason they're not right on the road likely is due to the occasional bus that passes through.

Position: 55°18.00'N, -6°16.77'W

The fabulous seascape at Bull Point that we passed last night might be even more impressive viewed from the shore.

Position: 55°18.03'N, -6°16.80'W

Descending the steps from the West Light Seabird Centre to the seabird viewing area. The steps are part of the original lighthouse construction, and the viewing center is adjacent to the top floor of the keeper's tower on the left. Even without the seabirds, the seascape here astonishing and well worth the visit.

Position: 55°18.05'N, -6°16.81'W

Rathlin Island is home to one of the largest seabird colonies in the UK, including Guillemots, Razorbills, Kittiwakes, Fulmars and Puffins. Seabirds packed the stacks and cliffs and the air was filled with swooping birds and their calls. What an amazing place.

Position: 55°18.05'N, -6°16.81'W

The lighthouse tower itself was only opened to the public last year, so we were lucky to have a chance to visit. Inside the tower are several good displays detailing construction of the lighthouse, the keeper's lives and information about the wildlife in the area.

Position: 55°18.05'N, -6°16.82'W

A view up to the huge First Order Fresnel Lens used to focus the distinctive red light. It's the same size as the Sambro Lighthouse lens we saw in Halifax, Canada.

Position: 55°18.05'N, -6°16.82'W

The lighthouse here is called the "Upside-Down Lighthouse" because the light is below the tower to keep the light under the fog line.

Position: 55°18.02'N, -6°16.78'W

The old fog horn from the lighthouse was so loud it was known as the 'Rathlin Bull' and was once described as 'a loud, droning sound, like a bull in agony'. The foghorn was replaced by an electric version in 1982 and discontinued in 1995.

Position: 55°17.51'N, -6°11.50'W

We stopped for lunch on the patio at McCuaig's Bar before continuing our tour of the island. We had a great meal with an excellent view to the harbour.

Position: 55°17.10'N, -6°11.30'W

Seals sunning just south of the harbor.

Position: 55°15.52'N, -6°11.48'W

The Rue Point lighthouse was established as a temporary structure in 1915 with two double-flashing lights. The current tower was later built in 1921.

Position: 55°15.53'N, -6°11.45'W

We couldn't guess the purpose of these shelf-like structures mounted around the base of the Rue Point lighthouse. No power or other wires connected to them. Some had ledges on the front like these, but others didn't. And some were paired, but many were single. Since they face the lighthouse and are all the way around it, we guessed it might have been to light the outside of the lighthouse.

Position: 55°15.55'N, -6°11.44'W

Jennifer biking back along the path across the rocks to Rue Point lighthouse.

Position: 55°15.71'N, -6°11.19'W

These ruins along the east shore of Rathlin Island might have been the lighthouse keeper's houses.

Position: 55°18.13'N, -6°10.44'W

The Rathlin Island East Lighthouse was established in 1856 with a lower fixed light and an upper flashing light to distinguish it from other lights in the North Channel. Fifty years later, on July 6th 1898, Guglielmo Marconi successfully transmitted the first commercial radio signals across water from the lighthouse to Ballycastle on the Northern Irish mainland. The light was converted to electric in 1981, automated in 1995, and in 2003 an experimental Automatic Identification System (AIS) was established there.