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Day 15:
Murray Labyrinth |
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Before heading southc, we toured Smith Inlet, which once contained several villages of the
Gwa'sala,
the most
northern tribe of the Kwakwaka'wakw. Their most recent village of Takush on
the south shore of Indian Island was inhabited until the 1960s, when they
were relocated to the Port Hardy area by the Federal Government. The remains
of Takush, pictured, are clearly visible. |
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The island pictured is a burial island that is part of the
nearby reserve of Indian Island. |
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Our next stop was the Margaret Bay Cannery ruins.
From 1917 to 1938 this
was a thriving cannery with frequent Union Steamship Service. The picture at
left is of the cannery during its heyday, from shore looking west. (Picture
courtesy of Canfisco.) |
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This is all that is left of the big dock today, taken from the water looking
northeast. |
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This is the remains of the cannery boiler, slowly collapsing onshore, with
brick from the enclosure scattered about. |
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At the mouth to Smith Sound, we encountered several humpback whales. We
spent a long time drifting and watching them surface. This appeared to be an
adult and a juvenile, judging by the difference in size. |
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Looking back down Smith Sound as we set off for Cape Caution, which was an
enjoyable and uneventful passage. |
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We worked our way south and visited Nakawkto Rapids, in the
Guinness Book of
World Records as the fastest navigable in the world, attaining speeds of
sixteen knots on large ebb tides. This is a picture of Turret Rock at
the center of the rapids with a mild current flowing. The island is covered
with signs which give the names of boats that have passed through. |
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We crossed into Seymour Inlet and watched the tug Inlet Charger bring
a large closely-drawn boom out in a carefully
choreographed
operation, taking over an hour, so that the tug and boom were lined
up exactly at the opening for the brief moment of slack. |
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We continued down Schooner Channel and worked
our way into Murray Labyrinth,
following Chappell's directions. It was
very tough
getting in as we couldn't tell where that reef on the east was and the wind
was blowing us sideways—a bow watch really helped here. It was awesome
anchorage, with a view out to Schooner Channel, as shown, and a perfect
place to end our trip north of Cape Caution. We spent a few days in the more
populous waters of the northern inside straits before returning home to
Seattle. |
