MV Dirona


Up the West Coast of Vancouver Island:

Pinkerton Group to Jarvis Island, Barkley Sound

Day 4: Jarvis Island, Barkley Sound
The tide was very low the next morning, revealing the charted shoal to our west.  Two people were already at work with a net, possibly catching bait.
We set off for the Broken Group.  En route we saw a gaggle of "Little People", quite common along the west coast.  We picked up this term up Iain Lawrence's Far-Away Places (a good book to read if you are heading north of Vancouver Island -- it's actually a pretty good read period.)  "The Little People are elusive," writes Lawrence, with affection and respect.  "We saw their campsites and their firepits years before we saw the first one on the water.  They're hardy and brave, and they can fit themselves into places we could never hope to reach.  I envy the Little People for their freedom and admire them for their endurance." 
We toured a cove on the west side of Jarvis Island, which is in the northeast corner of the Broken Islands Group on the above map. Watmough described this as one of the best single-boat anchorages the Broken Group.  We really liked it.  Although we'd hardly been underway at all, we couldn't think of a good reason not so stop here, so we did.  This is the view looking west from the anchorage.
After breakfast we set off on a dinghy tour to visit the sea caves on the south shore of Dempster Island, which are the best in Barkley Sound. They were amazing.  Here's James leaving the one shown.  The water action behind him is surf boiling, not the dinghy wake.
We went way inside this one.
This cave is at the southeast side of Gibraltar Island. It goes a long way in, and the roof sloped down sharply.  The swell rushed in and produced a loud thundering sound when it hit the end.  It was really wild.
We continued out to the Swale Rock light, at the northeast corner of the park boundary, before turning into the passage along the south side of Nettle Island.  We saw a few pleasure craft underway, but we were mostly alone.  Plenty of good dinghy territory through here.  A couple of sailboats were anchored at Nettle Island.  The Pacific Rim National Park Reserve Warden Station is here too.  There were several wolf warnings on their bulletin board.
We stopped off in the lagoon between Jaques and Jarvis Island for lunch.  A sailboat and a classic wooden boat were anchored inside, and a gaggle of kayakers were passing through. The lagoon was very pretty.  We had tried to enter on our way out to the caves, but the passage on the east side had no water.  The tide was higher, so we left out this side.
With the higher tide, we were able to poke around in the islets just south of our anchorage.  More great dinghy territory here. We finally returned to Dirona to bake some bread and bask in the warm sun.




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Copyright 2012 Jennifer and James Hamilton