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Up the West Coast of Vancouver Island:
Young Bay, Clayoquot Sound to Bodega Cove, Nootka Sound
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Day 9:
Bodega Cove,
Bodega Island, Nootka Sound |
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We left our anchorage by 0630 to round Hesquiat Penninsula early. It
can be a nasty passage. There are shoals and rocks well off-shore, and
the area has a reputation for developing sudden squalls. It was a
rather bleak morning, suiting the environment, but visibility was good.
This is the view looking back towards Flores Island as we pass south of the
peninsula. We were in
2-3' swell,
far apart, so we didn't have much problem with it. |
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This is the
Estevan Point Lighthouse, established in 1910, at the southwest tip of
Hesquiat Peninsula. When completed, it was, at 150 feet, one of the
tallest freestanding structures in the west. As we turned north along
the west side of peninsula, the waves were hitting is more abeam, although
we weren't rocking much. However just looking at them seemed to put my
already queasy stomach over the edge. I had eaten little, but had my first
"biscuit loss" of the trip (as in "toss your cookies").
I don't usually get seasick, but the swells really got to me. |
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It became progressively more foggy as we
approached Nootka Sound. This little float plane was flying pretty
darn low in order to see. |
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We stopped first in Resolution Cove in Bligh
Island Marine Park. This is where Captain Cook, aboard the
Resolution, became the first European to set foot on what became the
province of British Columbia. They felled the first B.C. lumber to
replace their spar. Two plaques commemorate this historic occasion.
Our next stop would be historic Friendly Cove, which was the center of
European commerce in the late 1700s in what became British Columbia. |
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En route to Friendly Cove, we
were flagged down by a couple of kayakers. It was a pair of German
tourists heading for Gold River, which is probably a good 30 nautical miles
away, and they wanted to make sure they were in the right channel.
They had no charts, only a park map, and it was pretty foggy. But they
seemed perfectly happy with their situation, and
off they went. |
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We tied off at the main
public wharf at Friendly Cove. We had to go to the far shoreward end,
as we were told that the "big boat" would be coming in soon. This is
Sam, who tied off our bow line when we came in. I put another loop in
the knot and he asked "Don't you trust my knot?". He was very pleased with
my reply: "I don't trust anyone's knot." We talked for a bit - he was very
friendly. |
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The Nootka Light Station is quite substantial.
It is still manned, unlike many of BC light stations, which have been
automated. When we went up for a visit, the keeper came out to
introduce himself and answer any questions. Visitors used to be able
to climb to the top of the light, but due to safety concerns, that is no
longer allowed. |
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While we were at the station, the "big boat"
came in. It was the Uchuck III, which travels throughout Nootka
Sound from Gold River. Friendly Cove is accessible only by air or
water. This was a weekend, so it was bringing tourists from Gold River
to visit Friendly Cove for a few hours. We realized that they were all
heading to the church, which we hadn't been to yet, so we rushed down to
beat the crowds. |
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The church is a modern Catholic church in the
Native village of the Mowachaht.
It is full of colorful and impressive carvings. As people came in, they
dutifully sat down as if they were expecting something. So we did too.
A member of the band, who was traveling with the tourists on the Uchuck,
gave a very interesting presentation on the history of the region and that
of her people. We were very lucky to have been there at the right
time. The crowds had become a good thing. :) |
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The church also contains two stained-glass
windows which were a gift from the Spanish government. The one shown
depicts the ratification of the Nootka Convention in 1792, which
transferred local power from Spanish to British hands. Captain
Vancouver represented the British, and Captain Quadra the Spanish. |
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Nearer to the docks is a fallen totem. It
was a gift in 1929 to
the visitiing Governor-General of Canada, Lord Willingdon. He couldn't take it with him, so he
gave it to the the village, where it stood until 1994. It is
considered bad luck to raise a fallen totem pole. |
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We saw the most unusual sailboat tied off to a piling when we return to the
docks. It came with an equally unique tender. |
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We left Friendly Cove and headed north in search of an anchorage for the
night. We found one at Bodega Cove on Bodega Island in Kendrick Inlet.
It was empty when we arrived, but two large sailboats arrived later.
They anchored a ways off and rafted. Powerboats are definitely in the
minority here. This is the view looking south, out from the anchorage.
It was very tranquil. |
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